Rodger

zxf

^^^

When I see that, the only thing that comes to mind is, "People suck."

Resonance?

The oil drain pug is a standard allen socket available at an auto parts store.

My transmission fill and drain bolts were also allens.

It's possible you may need a Hazet 16mm triple-square tamper-proof (hole in the center) socket to remove the trans drain bolt. If that's the case, you might try http://www.zdmak.com or http://www.samstagsales.com.

I've also seen the socket on Ebay.

I see from looking at the PET that the oil filler tube is divided into three parts. Since the entire pipe is covered in oil residue, I can't tell exactly which segment is leaking. Is it usually the middle segments, because of the shift cables leaning against it? Or would it be the elbow on the engine, since the middle segment is flexible? Is this thing a nightmare to change?

I've also got an obvious leak from the AOS where it plugs into the block (not the bellows). Neither is more than seepage, but it's annoying and I can faintly smell oil from the passenger side engine vent after driving.

Sounds awesome! I've got to record my PSE at some point.....

cg

sdfg

I've got new SPTs at all four corners. While the temps haven't gotten above 55 here yet, what little "pushing around" I did on these tires, they seem to hold up well. I don't notice excessive road noise. I have not driven in the wet at all yet.

I plan on using mine primarily for a couple autocrosses, then lots of highway miles.

I recall my '99 Boxster's muffler being different in regards to the design of the top mounting equipment. Unless you can get an '00 or later muffler that includes all of the mounting hardware that goes on top of the muffler, it won't mount properly to your '99. The aluminum mounting bracket that secures the muffler to the transmission may be different also.

zxfg

gh

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I doubt if it can be ordered. I just finished the installation of the 03+ PSE and the pipe looks to be bent at the muffler factory, then welded onto the valves. The metal on the valves appears to be cast as well.

Simply adding the bypass pipes would be all you need to get good sound.

See if it mixes with water. If not, it's oil based. If it does, it might be coolant. If you haven't puleld up the carpet in the rear trunk, now's a good time.

I've seen cars puke a small amount of condensed water vapor and soot from the pipes on startup, which is normal.

sdf

There's no evidence of a repaint on the hardtop (other than what you may have had done to get it to match your car), is there? No evidence of shipping damage?

Also, can you state for a fact your car has never been in an accident and repaired?

Hopefully your answer to all of the above is no......

cgh

You might try the key reset procedure, which is to install the battery upside-down in the key for a short period, then return it to the correct configuration.

sfg

I've got a Technalon Evolution car cover purchased from http://www.carcoversdirect.com . Their service was remarkably quick to Alaska and I got a pretty good price. The cover itself is very thick and fills up most of the rear trunk when folded. The material is perforated to allow breathability, but I found water still beads on the exterior surface. The worst moisure buidup I saw all winter was a slight fogginess on the areas of body not exposed to the sun. The interior of the material which contacts the paint is slick....almost like Teflon. I think it does a good job preventing scratches. Around the base of the cover is strong elastic to help it hug the lower body. I bouhg the optional lock for it as well.

The cover on my Boxster, some time around January:

I know, I'm a bad person.

I think if you enter the code incorrectly three times, the car forces you to wait one hour before the code can be tried again. During this hour, the car must remain on (or at least, the key in the ON position). Turning the car off resets the timer and the hour wait restarts. I'm pretty sure during the hour the stereo displays "wait", like it's looking for a CD changer.

That should work out fine then, since I'm installing a PSE on Thursday! Thanks.

That really sounds like a bad ignition switch. It's actually really easy to DIY, as seen here:

http://www.industryfigure.com/berkeley/Por...itionswitch.htm

My 2000 S (US, 6-spd.) has a torn left inner CV boot. Since the inner joint is held in place with six allen screws, I'm wondering if it's possible to simply unbolt the screws and swing the axle downward (pivoting on the outer joint, which already appears to have a new boot) so I can change the boot and regrease it without pulling the whole axle. The tear looks really fresh and there's no grease slung about the radius of the joint.

Possible?