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Everything posted by Rodger

  1. You're correct. I recently added Fabspeed bypass pipes to my 2000 S and it did add sound, as well as a little power.
  2. Does the car run OK? Has any engine work been done that involves the timing chain? It almost sounds like maybe the timing is off.
  3. OK, I didn't use the search terms "oddments" or "tray". I used "center console lid hinge". Thanks, Loren!
  4. I purchased a new center console online, only to find it doesn't have the same hinge configuration as my existing console. To correct this, I need the Porsche center console hinge repair kit (996.552.960.01). Am I going to need a pop rivet gun to install it? I checked the TSB listing and didn't see anything about it. Is there a procedure somewhere?
  5. Sorry, the author of this DIY has removed it from the site. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  6. I'll bet you thought I was done, didn't you? I've got video of the before and after. Before: 2000 Boxster S, stock intake (desnorked), stock headers, stock cats (4), 2003+ PSE in Sport mode. After: Same, except for Fabspeed Bypass Pipes. First in Stock mode (PSE off), then in Sport mode. Also, the second I found out the right pipe was too long, I tried calling Fabspeed. Apparently they're not open at noon on a Saturday. You may want to replace your exhaust gaskets when doing this task, but mine were fine and no replacements existed in Anchorage, AK.
  7. The next step is optional, but *highly* recommended if you want to keep your CV boots intact. The factory exhaust runs under the inner CV boots and includes a pathetic heat shield. The Fabspeed pipes have no heat shield and are actually much closer to the boots. I wrapped mine with header wrap and some fiberglass tape I stole from work. It does a fantastic job keeping heat where it belongs. Carefully inspect all clearances and all bolts for tightness. Reinstall the sway bar supports to 17 lb.-ft. Reinstall the skid plate and torque all nuts and bolts to 48 lb.-ft. Test drive time! It's gonna stink, because your dirty hands put grime all over the nice clean pipes. Give it time, it will go away. It should be louder and you should have a little more power. OK, my opinions: Fabrication/materials: A. Nice welds, top-notch factory hardware with good locknuts. Fitment: D The right side pipe was too long, the left side pipe touches the trans mount bracket, and neither pipe was bent exactly right to make the U-pipe couplings match perfectly. For my money, I expect better. Sound: A++ Oh. My. God. It's fantastic!!!! It sounds exactly like I expected my PSE to sound right out of the box. I suspect a stock muffler would sound like mine does with the PSE turned off. With the PSE turned on, there's a definite bark to the exhaust note. With four cats and a PSE, there was almost no difference in the PSE on/off sound.
  8. The installation of the right side bypass pipe is identical. I ran into a problem though: Mine didn't fit! it appears the right side cat pipe on my car is shorter than the left. See the excess? I had to chop about 1" off of the end of the right side sub-pipe to make it fit properly. Pretty stupid thing to have to do, IMO. No configuration i could come up with would make the pipes fit properly without cutting. I even tried adusting the U-pipe out as far as possible from the muffler, but it didn't help. OK, cutting completed, finish the right side. I had to reuse the old top bolt from the factory cats at the flange because of very little clearance between the flange and the engine. No big deal.
  9. Now that all of the hardware is removed, ease the cat rearward until the studs clear the edge of the header flange. On non-PSE cars this is easy. PSE-equipped cars with the external muffler valves may need to bend the cat support bars on either side upward. It was a real pain on my car. Save this stuff for reuse on the bypass pipes. Now that the cats are out, preassemble your LEFT bypass pipe. Temporarily install the old coupling on the muffler's U-pipe. Slide on the new single-bolt coupling all the way to the bypass pipe flange (otherwise it falls off during installation). Lift the main bypass pipe into position and temporarily install it with one new bolt, loosely (make sure your gasket is in there). Now slide on the sub-pipe and bring back the single-bolt clamp to meet it. Now slide the coupling from the U-pipe onto the other end of the sub-pipe. Don't tighten anything yet! Now the whole assembly should be hanging from the car. Inspect it for clearance and proper fitment (this important -- you'll find out why in a bit). If all looks well, install the other two bolts and nuts. Remember, one nut is welded to the header flange. Once the header is bolted up and tight, adjust your clamps if needed and tighten the bolts. Get them tight so they don't leak. For clarity, in the below pic, the sub-pipe is shown with the coupling (left) and the single-bolt clamp (right). I had a clearance issue with the left side pipe hitting the transmission support. Since the exhaust and transmission are both carried as a unit by the engine and transmission mounts, I left it. No vibrations noted. Done on the left side!
  10. Pull downward on each of the aluminum arms and they should slide off of the studs. The skidplate is now free to come off the studs as well. Set it (and all its hardware) aside. You should remove the two sway bar brackets to ease removal of the cats. It requires a 15mm socket. Let it hang. Now you can see the exhaust system clearly. Let's start at the back and move forward. Loosen the 13mm nuts on each cat's coupling and slide it toward the cat or U-pipe, either is fine. Do this for both sides. It's not necessary to fully remove each nut. You may need to jam a prybar into the coupling to unstick it. Now fully remove the support piece connecting the muffler to the cats. Thirteen milimeters here. Now remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt connecting the cat pipe to each header. They're 13mm.
  11. Sorry, the author of this DIY has removed it from the site. This is the support topic for the DIY Tutorial. Please post here if you have any questions or feedback.
  12. NO way that's worth it. The S is a faster car, but the 6-speed trans isn't known for its smoothness. Additionally, you're going to be spending big bucks to get the clutch and brakes done unless you DIY. The fact that it's black with blasted paint (too hot in FL!) and a smoker's car makes it a deal breaker. I cannot tolerate cigarette smoke in any quantity. Just keep your '99!
  13. If you had oil in the tank, it would be floating on top in small circular globs. It should be obvious. I wouldn't worry.
  14. I'll bet the ignition switch is failing. It's a pretty easy DIY if you've got a few tools. Search this site for the Audi equivalent part number. It's a cheap part, too.
  15. You blew a fuse for the alarm system and the brake lights don't work, and the fog lights come on automatically? Wow, serious electrical issues going here. You sure the brake light fuse is good? Sounds like it blew when you shorted the light assembly. Check again, please. Also, if you've got a multimeter, check for voltage at the light assembly with the brake pedal pressed. If not, either the fuse is smoked or the brake light switch on the pedal assembly is toast. As for the blown alarm fuse, has your car been exposed to rain recently? Check for water collecting in the driver's floor area. As for the fog lights, as long as the headlight switch isn't acting up, the ignition switch might be.
  16. There may have been some air trapped in your coolant system after they replaced the tank and water pump, but you'd be better off having the system pressure tested to be sure. There may be another leak somewhere. As for adding power steering fluid, it's easy....open the top into the service position and the filler is right next to the intake manifold.
  17. Loren's right....so long as it's clear water that's dripping from the condenser, it's a good thing. How much drips will depend on how well your A/C works (more equals better) and how humid it is outside. The problems start if the drain tube ever gets plugged, which causes water to puddle inside the car! :)
  18. The guide tube is really stiff plastic....it shouldn't crimp. In fact, what little leverage I put on mine during my oil filler pipe replacement, caused the tube to crack. With mine, I have to twist the dipstick slightly as it goes in. I suppose it's possible the tube has become unseated from the engine. I would replace mine, but it looks like a total pain.
  19. Thanks for the follow-up, glad you got it sorted! For the DIYers: I replaced both my AOS and the center oil filler tube segment in about two hours, having never done either before.
  20. Sounds like you might have a failing oil seperator. I would pull off the short convoluted hose running from the AOS to the intake manifold and look for a large quantity of oil. A small amount is normal (think 'condensed vapor') inside the tube. In this pic, you can see the AOS on the lower right, with the short convoluted hose running to the intake.
  21. You might try calling a shop that specializes in brakes to see if they can cut the rotors. If they can, have them cut, then make sure you reinstall the wheels with the proper torque on the lugs so they don't warp again. Also, after periods of hard braking make sure you drive around a bit to cool the brakes. Lastly, after an autocross run or hard braking session, don't apply the emergency brake when you park the car. Just leave it in gear. Be forewarned: brake rotors that have warped are likely to warp again due to decreased overall mass.
  22. Two more: Targa Blind Switch PSE switch:
  23. What did you use to clean the O2 sensors? Also, have you replaced any of the O2 sensors? I noticed you didn't list them.... If you've got a voltmeter or a Durametric you can look at the O2 sensor's outputs. You might want to see if your O2 sensors are developing any voltage at all. If not, replace them.
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