Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

strawfordt

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    44

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by strawfordt

  1. strawfordt
    Hello All, I did a new MAF sensor before putting my 98 Boxster away last year. I drove 190 kms in the last two days and bingo, I got a CEL. I checked and the codes are P1124 P1126 P0130 I am running fine but I better get a handle on this. Can anyone help with the interpretation of the codes? Also, What does an oil change and new filter usually cost from the stealer? Any ideas? My local guy is charging me $250.00 for the filter and oil change. Thanks for all the help here. This forum is way better than some of tthe forums for my other vehicles. Tom
  2. strawfordt
    Help please, I have a 98 Boxster Cdn model. Last year I had MAF issue and was able to verify that the Maf was bad by unplugging the MAF and having the idle and drive conditions return to normal. I cleaned my MAF per the instructions I found here and everything has been great since. Three days ago I got the dreaded P1128 & P1130 codes but my car was running great. I cleared the codes yesterday and then tried to start up. I thought my car was going to die. It barely held idle RPMS and did not rev out of idle at all. More gas caused near stall conditions. The ECM never threw an new code. I went back into the engine compartment, cleaned and re-installed the MAF. I started up again and... the same issue. I then un-plugged the MAF sensor to see if this solved the problem or at least improved the problem and I have the same idle and performanace issue. If the car threw a new code I would know what to do. Was my sequence wrong. Should I try all the reapairs before resetting the ECM? Does anyone have a good suggestion? Anxious for you thoughts and to get my Box running again. Thanks for reading and I hope to receive some good ideas and advice Tom
  3. strawfordt
    I moved this post to the technical forum. I beleive that I posted incorrectly. Help please, I have a 98 Boxster Cdn model. Last year I had MAF issue and was able to verify that the Maf was bad by unplugging the MAF and having the idle and drive conditions return to normal. I cleaned my MAF per the instructions I found here and everything has been great since. Three days ago I got the dreaded P1128 & P1130 codes but my car was running great. I cleared the codes yesterday and then tried to start up. I thought my car was going to die. It barely held idle RPMS and did not rev out of idle at all. More gas caused near stall conditions. The ECM never threw an new code. I went back into the engine compartment, cleaned and re-installed the MAF. I started up again and... the same issue. I then un-plugged the MAF sensor to see if this solved the problem or at least improved the problem and I have the same idle and performanace issue. If the car threw a new code I would know what to do. Was my sequence wrong. Should I try all the reapairs before resetting the ECM? Does anyone have a good suggestion? Anxious for you thoughts and to get my Box running again. Thanks for reading and I hope to receive some good ideas and advice Tom
  4. strawfordt
    Maurice, Thanks, I did get the transmission back together but the top did not move smoothly. I was trying to adjust the timing but I noticed that the pass side was not moving again. I am supposing that the sector gear came out of the worm gear again. I will disassemble the unit again this weekend and if I have troubles I'll post again. Thanks.
  5. strawfordt
    Okay... I realise that my question was stupid!!! After looking more closely, I noticed the there are two lugs on the lever arm that fit into the transmission. So I think that this problem is solved. HOWEVER, my top was previously timed perfectly and never did it make any noise when opening or closing. Now it is struggling and makes a few scary noises. Sometimes the clam shell stays open about 1". As the top is moving the sides are not moving smoothly and one side sometimes jumps to a little to "catch up" to the other side. I reset the lever arm positions using a small level and I reset the adjustable arms that have the plastic ball sockets that always break before I closed the top. I have a 98 Canadian Boxster. It has the new flexible shafts cables. Still looking to hear from the experts. Thanks everyone, especially those that are trying to help. Tom
  6. strawfordt
    Hi all, I searched the forum but did not find an answer to my question. My top appears to have over travelled and the sector gear inside the transmission travelled past the worm gear that is attached to the cable. No big deal really as I have the unit apart and have found my problem. I want to put it back together but.. How do you set the positional relationship between the lever arm and the sector gear so that the rotation does not bring the sector gear out of the worm gear again. The pic on the right shows the position that the sector gear was in when I disassembled the transmission and the picture on the left shows my ignorant attempt to reset the sector gear. Has anyone had to re-assemble this before and if so how do you know what position to set the sector gear? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Tom
  7. strawfordt
    Lithium grease it is. I'll keep you posted with my discoveries. Should be nice here this weekend. Looking forward to a few tours.
  8. strawfordt
    Chris, Thanks for the advice. Late last year I replaced parts & re-calibrated the soft top mechanisms. The cable ends were just fine. I'll look to see if the ends have changed any. With regards to the channel grease. Does anyone know what type of grease should be used? Thanks
  9. strawfordt
    Update Here. Seems the problem is intermittent. Sometimes it is okay and other times I have the problem as described above. The offending side is always the drivers side (Left Hand Drive). Can anyone point me in the right direction?
  10. strawfordt
    Hi all, Looking for suggestions / help. Yesterday I put my top down and I did not get the red light on the dash to go out when the top finally stopped moving. I figured that I had a wet sensor or something and being a real chicken#$%, I just put the top back up and went for my drive. Later was experimenting to see what was wrong and I noticed that at the full down position the drivers side of the clamshell did not seat into the post hole and was actually proud about 1 inch above the deck lid. The passenger side was fine. vSomething allowed the top to be off kilter. I figured that something was wrong in the cables or mechanism so I decided to get the thing into service position and start looking for the cause. I checked all connections and the angles of the pivot arms and all was okay. I re-assembled and tried again. Worked perfectly!!!! I doubt that I fixed anything. Could this have been caused by a sticky slider in the "C" channel? Am I missing something obvious? Does anyone have a good idea? BTW My Box is a '98 Thanks for reading and a special thanks to those that respond Tom
  11. strawfordt
    Thanks Guys. Awesome forum. I am learning alot about these wonderful cars. Cheers from Canada
  12. strawfordt
    Good morning. I am interested in the one touch top control, however at times the lip on the passenger side does not always catches the groove on the frame so it is inside the frame I have to guide it as I close the top. This always happens when I "karate chop" the plastic rear window so it lays down smoothly. Has anyone experience the same thing. Ben Ben, There is a way to fix that and it was at Porsche TSB I believe. There is a tension spring (looks like a tiny leaf spring) that forces that lip inside the groove. If yours aren't following the groove, you need to remove and reverse the tension spring. It worked for me! Do a search, it's been covered before. Good luck! John Do you know if this is true for aftermarket tops? I had one replaced and i still have the same issue with the lip. It looks like we myu top has stretchy elastics. Regards to all. Great forum here! Thanks
  13. strawfordt
    I think I might have done something very stupid. I stored my Boxster indoors at a very affordable and reliable garage / barn. We left the hood open because if the battery dies the hood is almost impossible to open. Did I just doom my battery to drain. There has to be a light that is sucking the life out of the battery right now. Am I correct or should I relax? Please let me know. Thanks Tom
  14. strawfordt
    Hillarious, I thought I was the only one. I got a $23.00 rebate that I found when I was replacing my Prake Brake Switch. :beer: We have $1 & $2 coins in Canada. That telescopic magnet paid for itself that day!
  15. strawfordt
    "Mission accomplished" for real. Answered my own question. 1. Set timing with a level like show here on the forum. - Worked very well. See the picture. 2. I installed and tightened the rods and left the middle adjuster nuts loose, removed those plastic side shields and then I put everything to the closed position but left the back section of the top up (I had to remove the cable at the metal ball sockets from the back of the top). I made sure the clamshell was full down. 3. With the side plastic shields removed, the adjuster nut was accessible. I was able to tighten the nut and after four test cycles I can say there was not a squeak or a pop. Checked all my cables and they seem to be the type with the re-inforced sheath. I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best. Also cleaned the MAF and what a difference. It's like a new car.
  16. strawfordt
    Actually quite happy with my prgoress. However, I have to put the control (push) rods back inand i would like to know how the setting of the rods is done. ie. hoiw do you knopw how long to set them? All help is appreciated!
  17. strawfordt
    It is a 98.
  18. strawfordt
    Hi, Thanks in advance. I've searched long and hard but haven't found the answers to my following questions. Got this hellacious convertible top guy that was to do some free warranty work for me. This guy was to do warranty repairs to a replacement top malfunction from the previous owner. I fear he has ruined the most enjoyable car I've ever owned. I'll try to be brief. Anyway after all kinds of BS and scamming I got the new top after parting with $600.00. So much for free!!! When I tried the new top for the first time there were all kinds of pops and cracks and the control link with the red bushing broke. That was the second one since I delivered my car to the guy. I've got the new control arm and ball socket and I am worried that if I just put it on and try the top I'll break it again. Does anyone know if it can be measured and set before functioning to avoid more broken parts? All the best Tom
  19. strawfordt
    Just spent $600.00 bucks for a new top due to this problem. Arggggh! Went through hell with a local soft top guy that caused me great pain and aggravation as I found out that he really knows less then me and I was stupid enough to pay $600.00 Learned a lesson here. That's for sure.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.