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John V

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About John V

Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    '01 Boxster S
    '95 BMW M3
    '03 Suzuki SV1000
  • Former cars
    '87 RX-7 Turbo II

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  1. John V
    On what wheel size and offset is this? I've noticed that 15mm + 18mm is a popular combination in Europe for the Boxster (sold as pair by companies such as TechArt and DesignTek), but I'm not sure if if they will fit my particular wheels. By the way, that's 15mm spacers, so 30mm axle extension. Atle The spacers you bought will not work with the wheels you have. They are too big. The rear 18mm spacer is meant for fitting a Carrera offset (65mm) wheel to a boxster. 65-18 = 47mm, which is perfect for a 10" wide rear wheel. Not sure what the 15mm spacers are for... they may technically fit up front but the wheel is going to stick out too far and look, IMO, kind of funny. Why did you buy spacers? The wheels you have already fit properly. If you are looking for a set of track wheels, I have a set of Complete Custom Wheels (CCWs) that are about as light as you can get for a Boxster that I'm looking to sell.
  2. John V
    That's a common tactic to get people into the dealership. Doesn't say anything for any car's demand or value, unfortunately.
  3. John V
    I don't think any of us are suggesting that this is a good idea.
  4. John V
    It depends on too many factors. If the hill is sufficiently steep that the car can hold a given MPH with engine braking, the car will use less fuel than if you push in the clutch and let the engine idle. The engine uses no fuel when engine braking. It uses fuel when idling. Period. I guess the real point the hypermilers are always trying to make is that if you plan ahead and COAST TO A STOP instead of braking at the last minute, you save gas. Yes but remember they are not coasting with the engine idling, they are shutting the engine OFF. The idea is that you're not wasting any inertia. The original poster didn't say anything about turning the engine off and presumably he's not letting the car pick up speed so that it's exceeding any safe speed limit.
  5. John V
    It depends on too many factors. If the hill is sufficiently steep that the car can hold a given MPH with engine braking, the car will use less fuel than if you push in the clutch and let the engine idle. The engine uses no fuel when engine braking. It uses fuel when idling. Period.
  6. John V
    Your earlier post stated: Which is it?
  7. John V
    Your test is invalid because you're not keeping an important parameter constant between the two tests: speed. If you use the brakes to hold yourself to the same speed coasting as would be provided by engine braking alone, your fuel mileage will be better using the engine braking. The engine should use essentially zero fuel under engine braking conditions. I've yet to see a fuel injected car that fires the injectors in an engine-braking scenario (assuming the revs are above idle). The injectors are absolutely firing if the car is at idle or the idle circuit is engaged (< 1300 RPM or so). J
  8. John V
    Oh brother. :rolleyes:
  9. John V
    Maybe true, but brakes are still cheaper to replace, then engine wear. You are assuming that engine braking causes excessive engine wear. It doesn't. If you don't lose the motor due to IMS failure it's likely to last you longer than you have the car. Better to replace neither the engine nor the brakes prematurely, no? :P
  10. John V
    So long as the engine isn't allowed to exceed redline there is nothing wrong with engine braking.
  11. John V
    You would be wrong. It uses less fuel. You're correct in saying that engine braking, in conjunction with the brakes, is the correct and safe way to go down a hill. It doesn't damage the engine whatsoever.
  12. John V
    Easy. Number one. With the car in gear and your foot off the throttle the engine management can fully shut off the fuel injectors. If you let the car idle, it goes into its idle circuit and operates the injectors at a low duty cycle. Number two is dangerous anyway, so it's a moot point.
  13. John V
    I did a front bearing today. You don't need the SIR tools. An $80 kit from china freight worked well: I removed the spindle. it's easy to do if you have the Napa ball joint removal tool ($19)... and then you don't need to fool with spring compressors or any of that nonsense. Once the spindle is out, you can tab out the hub from the bearing. You're discarding the bearing, so no worries about the hammering damaging the bearing. Only took me about three hours from tools out to tools cleaned up. :)
  14. John V
    Yes, it is supposed to click. I also have zip-tied my switch closed because the click was annoying. Just remember that you can now start the car without pressing the clutch. This can be a good or bad thing. Be careful.
  15. John V
    Totally normal. Read the owner's manual! :)
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