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93wolfsburg

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Everything posted by 93wolfsburg

  1. Decided not to just go off what the PIWIS was telling me and get some measurements on my own, I unpinned the DME 7.8 wires connector C8,C24 for potentiometer 2,1 respectively and measured their voltage with key on. According a white paper I found on the Bosch throttlebodies these pots should be 5v-0v and 0v-5v ranges, sweeping through the ranges as the throttlebody moves so they should always be in agreement or within a specified tolerance of each other through the range. This doesn't match the 16v the DME is seeing. At this point just planning to send it off to ECU drs.
  2. also as i'm looking around online to find another DME, how difficult is it to adapt immobilizers, im seeing a lot of information thats saying just swap keys/alarm modules/dme's all together. In the vw/audi world if you have the right skc/pin code you can adapt immobilizers, is this the same with porsche?
  3. Needing some help with where to go on troubleshooting a P1502 code. I'll start off with the details on the car and then the troubleshooting I've performed so far. The Car: 2001 Boxster base, manual trans. The motor was swapped to a 2003 motor, also 2.7. I acquired the car 90% swapped. The car had been sitting for I'm guessing about 5 yrs when the previous owner's mechanic had given up on the swap/wiring. I used this site and other resources online to find the DME 7.2/7.8 differences and match up the correct wiring to where the car would crank. Was immediately obvious that I had gotten it all wired it up correctly hearing the fuel pump cycle and the throttle body whine as it waiting for key turn. Shortly after starting noticed that chocolate milk coolant was spewing out of the overflow bottle, I had another thread on here where I found the oil cooler was bad, while installing this i also noticed that the radiator overflow hose was swapped with the coolant bottle overflow drain hose (glad this was the case or I wouldn't have found the broken oil cooler until it was mixing pretty thoroughly in the crank case). Now with all the fluids in sealed in their respective places I began the process of bleeding the cooling system per the bentley manual. Halfway through the warm up the car started stumbling, the check engine light came on, and the gas pedal became ineffective and like many of the P1502 threads on here wouldn't rev over 2k rpm. Troubleshooting: -Immediately noticed no more whine from the throttle body with key on, suspected maybe my wiring was incorrect, went back and checked every pin, ohmed them out, verified the DME was feeding 5v to the TB. Everything was correct. -Tried another known good TB -Searched on here saw thread about B+ shorts and bad fuel pump relay. Tested those circuits. -Saw some people had success cycling the key a bunch of times, tried this, no dice. -Using a Piwis setup from a friend ran codes, got P1502, P1517, P1516, when trying to clear them the software says its unable to clear them and occasionally get a P0638 in there. -Using Piwis reading value from the pedal which showed what I believe to be a correct sweep from 0-100% -Using Piwis read values on the throttle body, and manually moved the throttle plate, once again saw a good reading from 0-100% At this point I'm leaning toward a bad motor driver in the ECU that's not powering the stepper in the throttle body. I really have no way of verifying this and I'd like to confirm the diagnosis before just firing up the parts cannon.
  4. oil cooler seems to have sorted things out on the mixing.
  5. that did it thank you!
  6. I'd like to join in here SN - 5010228 Type - 4462
  7. Thanks for the tip! The order hasn't shipped yet so I'll see what I can get that altered.
  8. Some good news! It appears the oil cooler leaks like sieve. I have a new one on order.
  9. Thanks for the weclome!! That's great info to have and makes perfect sense. Looks like i need to get after it with the boroscope if the oil cooler is not leaking. amazon should be delivering my bentley manual this afternoon so hopefully should get an idea of how this all goes together
  10. Longtime VW/Audi owner and shade tree mechanic making my first jump into the Porsche ecosystem. I've acquired a non running Boxster. The PO had swapped in an 03 motor (m96.23) into an 01 (m96.22) and couldn't get it running thanks to information on this site I was able to realize the DME differences and swap pins around to get it running. I only had it running for a few moments when it started forcing coolant out of the coolant reservoir. Being the first car I've had with engine in the middle and radiator in the front I just assumed the cooling system hadn't been properly burped since the motor swap was done. I took the cap off and started it again, now I get chocolate milk flowing out and immediately shut it down. Next I took the oil filter off and was met with more of the same, darker chocolate milk colored vs the caramel color that was coming out of the coolant reservoir but clearly mixing. I drained the rest of the oil out of the motor and wasn't much more encouraging. I've seen on here the oil cooler is suspect in situations like this and I'll be pressure testing that later today. I'm concerned its more head gasket related given how quickly after starting it forced its way back through the cooling system, but I'm wondering if that's a common failure point for these motors? Is there anything else I should be looking for as I try to find the source of the mixing? Thanks in advance!
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