britdave

Thank you very much Ahsai ! I suppose I'll have to get some very long wires to do most of these tests from the engine bay to the front of the car where the battery is ? Will they have to be a thick gauge wire to get the correct readings ? Unless I' m reading your post wrong. I assume the v is voltage ? Not to sure exactly what you mean in the first sentence, perhaps I'm reading too much into it ? Great post though. Thank you very much !

Thanks for all your advice fellas , this issue really has me stumped , so everything you can think of causing this problem will help ! I'll try all prescribed above, and am now thinking it COULD be a wiring problem ? Just how many wires should I replace to make sure ? #1 How many are there, #2 any ideas where I can order them all from, and most important, #3 where exactly are they located at on the vehicle ? Does anyone have a diagram of suspected wires , and where they are at ? Since this has caused me SO MANY headaches, and wires are fairly inexpensive, I will replace all of them, to make sure. I even thought of "adding" an "additional ground strap" from the motor to the chassis to make sure I've covered everything, do you think thats a good idea ? Can anyone advise on the latter, I will do this when I return from my trip to Germany in August. Perhaps I'll stop by the factory in Stuttgart whilst over there and have a word with them about this , LOL ! Thanks for any other ideas, and the wires that I need to replace ? Cheers Dave. :thankyou:

I have written a few times about this annoying, on going problem with my 2002, 911 996 . It started months ago, when I would get a weak , or dead battery , after driving for a while. So I got a brand new high cranking amps battery, the alternator was removed and bench tested at a shop specializing in them, I wire brushed , and checked all wiring connections ( as several guys advised ) all ok. So I thought I was out of the woods , NOT ! Again after installing the new battery, and taking it out for a drive, all was fine on initial start up, and whilst I was driving along for about the first 5 or 6 miles, then the voltage guage, I had plugged into the cigarette lighter, once again started going down. First it hovered around 13.4 or 13.5 volts, then it started dropping to about 12.9 then about 12.5 Red light, not good. The conclusion is, once the motor warms up , and has been driven for about 7 or 8 miles this happens. I leave it overnight, start it up the next day, and once again, high voltage, and everything is fine. That is until it's driven for a while. Many folks on here kept telling me about the ground straps, and battery wiring, in particular the one that attaches behind the right rear wheel, by the wheel well ( Why they would put it there, where it's vulnerable to corrosion, and everything the wheel kicks up is anyones guess ? ) This only happens after a good run ,and warm up, and a faulty, or corroded connection, would not be affected like that would it ? I assume that would be like that at all times , if it was a resistance/corrosion problem, even on initial start up ? Therefore ,I'm thinking it could be a faulty voltage regulator, thats being somehow affected by the hot motor, after it heats up after 6 or 7 miles ? Any thoughts on this , this mystery is driving me nuts, I almost want to trade it in for a BMW, it's so bad. Any thoughts or advice ? HELP !!!! :help:

From the feedback I've got here, apparently it's not needed ? DC

Not sure about that one, but this is about ground straps , batteries, and wiring resistance :offtopic:

After trying all sorts of things to figure out why my battery wont re charge all that well (I put a new voltage regulator in the alternator, and had it bench tested) checked all connections , did voltage checks etc ??? Anyhow, one member here suggested although the battery tested ok as well, it just could be a tired weak battery. Therefore I'm going to get a Optima one with at least 900 CCA/ cranking amps, perhaps 1000 would be better ? Anyone know the model/part # that would fit , and is recommended ? I sure hope this helps, as with lights and a/c running it barley gets over 13.2 volts at 3000 rpm, and I would like to see a steady 13.8 at least. I hope a new Optima will cure all the trouble I've had with this issue ? Any suggestions, on them, CCA , and one that fits ? Thanks Brit Dave.

Not so much that , but it doesn't seem to charge back properly, when driving with a load (lights a/c etc) it's a mid to a very low 13. 11-13.3 volts , I believe this should be a constant 13.8 or higher ? But it occasionally drops below 13 volts, at the cigarette lighter where I put a volt meter ? The battery is fine , I had it checked out, removed the alternator ,and had a brand new voltage regulator installed, it bench tested fine, but I still had a new regulator put in, just for the hell of it. So battery checks out fine, so does alternator. I really believe it's the ground straps/and points. I'm thinking of attaching extra ground straps all over from the engine, gearbox, etc to the chassis, as well as the main battery to chassis ground strap, think this is a good idea ? Anyone got any other ideas, or a diagram where all the ground points are located on a 2002 996 ?

Thanks ! Brit Dave.

Thanks fellas , but I can get them locally here, getting them is not the problem, it's getting the right size. What I REALLY need to know is the size of the belt ? Thats the problem, anyone know the size for a 2002 911 /996 C2 w/aircon just a plain old regular Carrera C2 no turbo etc. There are 3 sizes and thats the problem ? Size in inches & mm's please, anyone know ? Thanks Dave.

I'm replacing my drive (Serpentine) belt in my 2002 911/ 996 C2 however the first one I got was to small, it measured 83" inches (? on mm size) from Auto zone a 'Duralast' part # 833K6, $16.99 it was about an inch to small. Next I went to NAPA and got another one ( the listings are not very accurate in the computers ? ) this NAPA one is made by Gates (NAPA calls it "Micro V) part # 25 060900 , and was almost double the price $33.00 , but being a Gates one I guess it's better ? But this one measures, 2301mm or 90 5/8 " inches ! Can anyone provide the actual size for this vehicle, or the correct part # and where to get the right size ? It' just a regular 2002 911/ 996 C2 ( no turbo , 4 4S etc) Can anyone advise on the proper belt size ? And which brand is best ? Thanks Dave :help:

Thanks a lot ! I will probably do the same as you did, but I still cannot figure what it's purpose is ??? There is nothing wrong with the air box so why spend $100.00 on a new one just for that little piece of foam rubber. Loren has a 2002 996, perhaps he , or someone else knows what that does, or if it's even needed ? It's a mystery :cursing: Loren help !!! Thanks Dave

Thanks, but I seriously doubt it's for " noise dampening " the foam was about a half of an inch thick at the most, and nothing behind except the plastic of the air box, I must admit I can't figure out WHY Porsche would put it there,or if it has anything to do with a sensor or something ? Plus the fact that the small frame it is in was held down with 6 screws? I think It's for something else ? Look close at the area in photo,(original post above) the area within the air box, notice it has "steps" in it at 3 levels. Does anyone else know what this mysterious small piece of foam is doing in this frame in the air box ? What is it's function :help: Again it's a 2002 911/996 C2 , thanks, very much for the info, Dave .

When I removed my air box today in my 2002 996 C2 I noticed foam rubber inside. Closer inspection revealed that there is a small piece of foam rubber that sits in a small plastic frame within the air box as shown below. It was all falling apart so i cleaned it all out. Does this need to be there ? Should I replace it , as I'm not sure what it actually does, except make a mess. Can anyone advise ? Thanks Dave

Whoops ! Sorry to many pics :oops: Here is another pic of this piece , to give a better idea, of what it is , and where to order it from beside driving 75 miles to the dealer. I'm thinking of just using any old type of a connector to connect the two hoses shown in the photo

Today whilst removing my alternator(and boy was that a pain !) I cracked this plastic water(coolant) link (piece) shown here. Anyone know anything about the replacing of this piece ? I tried to read the part # but it's very tiny , I think it's part # 996 106 22052 or 996 106 22051 , I can't seem to find a photo of it on any parts web site, but I don't want it to crack again. It looks like I could replace it with a brass connector or something similar, somewhere on this web site I thought someone mentioned that, as it could leak whilst driving, and metal or even pvc would probably work better than that black plastic, right ? This piece also has a small bracket attached to it, to secure it to the motor. Can anyone help me find this, what it's called, and where to get it ? I'm not even sure of the part # as it was distorted ? Thanks Dave, pic following I hope photo comes out on here ?

Any other suggestions for changing spark plugs easier, as well as the 'best brands' to use, and the Part number ??? Now , guys are telling me Bosch are no good ? What was original equipment in a 2002 996 C2 ? What does Porsche use then , and now ? Is it worth paying more for the latest popular brands ? Any suggestions on the changing of them , or type is very welcome, thanks !

Thanks guys ! Anyone where this TSB or a video is on how to replace/ or update these infamous cables ? Where they are located, if its easy, difficult , etc. I don't think alternator shops do this ? I'm willing to give it a shot though, if I could get some tutelage on the issue ? Thanks Dave

I know this is an incredibly lengthy thread, and perhaps I missed it somewhere on here ? But with all the different types, ways to mount it, and more, one very important question comes to mind. How many cranking amps do I need for my 2002 911/ 996 ? I have had nothing but low or dead battery issues for months now, and the battery ( dura last) checks out fine ? So I'm removing my alternator and having it bench tested. It puts out more voltage on a cold fresh start, than later on when the engine is warm, or started after a long run. My local alternator shop, says that the heat can do that to a dodgy/ questionable alternator ? Anyhow, what are the required cranking amps, for a 996, thanks Dave. And what do you think about that " heat " issue ?

Thanks JFP and Loren for all the advice on the spark plug questions ! Loren, what type / brand , and part # of spark plugs do you recommend ? And your sure I have the metal tubes in my 2002 C-2 996 , as you described ? Thanks Dave

Pedefede, in Copenhagen, are you telling me thats all it was ? :unsure: Ref your post above, and your quoted statement below. And I Quote : "Then I could not see my clumsy self taking out the alternator, but I managed to get a wrench on the lower connection on the back side, and it seemed just a little bit loose, so I gave it half a turn. Put it all together again, took the car for fast 15 min run - and now it restarts with out any problem" Unquote. So thats all it was, after all that hassle eh ? Could you please be a bit more specific as to what that "Lower conn" was ? : " lower connection on the back side" was ? :huh: Was it the + positive terminal, - negative ground (earth) or what ??? Thanks a lot for all the advice everyone, this seems to be a HOT issue, even amongst my small Porsche club group, can anyone else relate to this problem ? Thanks Dave.

I'm going to change the spark plugs on my 2002 996 / 911 C2 . The car only has 24,900 miles on it,(originals still in there) but I want to change them anyhow, as they have been in there over 10 years. I sure hope they come out ok after all those years ??? Questions follow below: #1. Which is the best brand (manufacturer) and the spark plug part number for my 996 / 911 ? #2. Should I replace the spark plug tubes, and if so where do I buy them ? #3. Should I replace the coil packs ? Keep in mind I only have 24,900 miles on this car, one guy I know says yes, 3 others say no ? #4. Should I use anti seize grease in the installation of the new plugs ? (This has always been a controversial subject, some say never ! While some guys say, to use a little ? Thanks for any advice on this subject :thankyou:

Tell me though, I don't have a lift, where exactly is this located on the car ?

I have been having battery/alternator problems (weak or dead battery) and I'm checking ,battery, alternator, etc, but also the ' Engine compartment ground strap location ' as I want to wire brush, & clean it, as that "may" be the problem ? Can someone show me a photo, or tell me 'exactly' where this goes to and from , and where connected on the car ? Also, once found and cleaned ,should I put any dielectric grease etc, on the connection (s) ? Thanks Dave.

Thanks, I'll do the + jumper terminal test in the engine compartment, it appears to be as close as I can get to the alternator + side ? But does that particular + jump start terminal go directly to or from the alternator, or to the battery ? Anyone got a schematic diagram, of that area ? The battery is fine, I tried that before, but may get another one again, who knows ? Tonight, whilst driving, I plugged a digital volt meter into the cigarette lighter, at first I got about 12.9 - 13 .2 showing, but later down the road and doing about 50 mph, the highest it read was 12.9 volts, average 12 .3 or 12.4 volts at the lighter socket ? Also, is there a drawing to show where 'exactly' that ground wire is connected to the chassis ? Somehow, I feel it's still the alternator , or it's regulator ? Thats why I'm trying all different types of tests. To bad I can't hook up directly to the alternator ? Anyone got any other ideas, before I get stranded again, or I spend a lot of money on an alternator I didn't need ? 12.9 volts at 3000 rpm . does not seem right ? But then again would a bad battery do that as I'm driving ? Any ideas , much appreciated, this is driving me nuts ! Thanks Dave.

My C- 2 2002 996/ 911 seems to have weak starting issues,so decided to do some electrical checks. I want to put my meter leads on the alternator, but it seems almost impossible to get to them without removing several things ? However, what if I hook the leads up to the positive terminal thats located in the engine compartment, and the ground lead to the chassis somewhere, will that suffice to check alternator out put ? Yesterday I checked the battery, with engine off, and my leads right on the battery, and it was putting out approx 12.5 volts. Then, keeping the leads on the battery, and then starting the motor, with + and - leads still attached to the battery, and at about 1500 rpm she was putting out about 13.5 to 13.7 volts, is this about right ? What has been happening ,is the car usually starts ok, I drive it 10 or 12 miles, come back out ,and several times she sounds very weak , turning over, and has now and again failed and I had to jump it. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem ? Could be but don't want to buy a new alternator if I don't need one ? Perhaps it's the battery leads or a corroded ground strap ? Anyhow, how would my original idea work, hooking up at the + terminal in the engine bay ? Any help or ideas, comment, solutions , would help. This has been going on for months, and I'm hesitant about even driving now, due to let downs ,and occasionally, a dead battery ? Thanks Dave.