Hi All,
I've researched various threads on various groups regards this upgrade. I'm located in the United Kingdom.
I have just bought my first Porsche, a 987.1 Boxster, later model with larger IMS. 63'000mls and runs beautifully.
On my past cars I've always (where possible) used magnets on the oil filter, but with the 987.1 being cartridge in plastic holder, can't use magnets.
So heard about the LN Engineering adaptor. After lots of reading, to summarise i've learnt the following:
A - Standard OEM oil filtering system is a 'Bypass system': OEM filter is cartridge in plastic housing with bypass valve which lets unfiltered oil back into the engine whenever there is a pressure indifference in the filter meaning the filter can't send the normal flow of oil to the engine. This appears to potentially happen in 2 scenarios:
Blockage of oil filter element
Cold starts where oil is cold and too thick to flow through element fast enough
This filter has a larger filtration area, is easy to inspect for sediment on oil change, but (apparently) doesn't provide as high a degree of filtration as the metal spin on filters.
B - Spin-on filter Adaptor oil filtering system is a 'Full Flow System': The adaptor facilitates the use of the more common metal screw-on oil filter. The filters LN Engineering recommend for use with their spin on adaptor don't have a bypass valve, meaning if the element was ever blocked, or (apparently) at cold starts, there is no way oil can get to the engine.
These filters (apparently) provide a higher degree of filtration (cleaner oil), are easier and less messy to change, and can still be inspected (with the use of an oil filter cutter), however, they are smaller in filtering size compared to the OEM cartridge filter, meaning (as recommended by LN Eng) they require more frequent changing.
Ok.. so..
The consensus appears to be that even though the bypass is there to stop excessive wear/damage (unfiltered oil is better than no oil!) people still don't like the idea of unfiltered oil being bypassed back into the engine. Added to this are concerns over the bypass valve in the Porsche OEM system failing, and allowing unfiltered oil back around the engine a lot more than it should be. So the metal spin-on filters recommended by LN Engineering (WIX, Fram, Mahle etc) are selected for their high oil flow rate, and not having any bypass valve.
Curiously, when i researched the metal spin-on filters we tend to use here in the UK.. the vast majority DO have a bypass valve fitted, and it is now by far the norm for modern cars to use a filter with a bypass valve. Most spin on filters here in the UK come standard with a bypass valve, not really so much to address a very unlikely blocked filter, but more to offset oil starvation first thing in the morning when it's cold and the oil is at it's thickest, meaning it may struggle to pass through the filter element fast enough, meaning potential engine damage due to slow-arriving oil lubrication..
So I'm about to do an oil change.. i've ordered and received the LN Engineering spin-on adaptor, and a WIX oil filter standing by to go on. But i'm conflicted as to what to do. Here in the UK in winter temperatures can, on occasion, go down to -10c (14 degrees F). The car is running 5w40 fully synthetic. I definitely like the idea of the 'Full Flow System' in ensuring all the oil circulating in the engine has been filtered.. BUT.. even though a clogged filter is unlikely, a cold start isn't..!!
Basically, I am worried that if i install the spin on filter with no bypass valve, that in the morning, when firing up the car, i'll be starving it of oil lubrication until the oil is thin enough to pass through the element, thus potentially causing damage.
Apologies for the length - i've tried to explain as best i can.. but i now need some people with knowledge and experience, to advise me on the likelihood of cold start oil starvation if i fit the full flow LN Eng adaptor, or should i just stick with OEM with the bypass..?
Thanks!