Spartan1-6

Turns out it's a 'Butyl Plate'. A butyl plate on an engine cover (or a car hood) is a sound-dampening pad made from synthetic rubber and often backed with aluminum foil. Its primary job is to act as a vibration damper and noise barrier to make the cabin quieter. Learn something new every day... now... to remove it or not..!!??

As per the title... what's it for? I'm not looking for 'guesses'... i want somebody, if there is anybody, to tell me FACTUALLY the reason for it..? I'm thinking about cutting it out, to get some more engine sound...

Hi All, I have a 2008 987.1 Boxster 2.7l, which I use as a daily and for spirited driving – but not track use, here in the United Kingdom. Needing to pull on your expertise.. I’ve spent hours trying to understand a few things at once, but not getting very far..!! forgive me if I make a hash of explaining my questions.. I’m going to need to change out my headers and exhaust soon, followed by a plenum upgrade and ECU stage 2. My car has the PSE system – which I’ve grown to like as there are times and occasions when quieter or louder are appropriate. I’d like to get a setup which, I understand, is a ‘valved’ system. Are there valved systems which can be connected up to the existing PSE to be able to operate from the switch just like the original system? If so.. please can you tell me of any systems which would work? I understand my car has 4 catalytic converters.. each side having one built into the headers, and one in the ‘back box’ section – is this correct? Are the header-cats known as the PRIMARY cats, and the back box cats ..the SECONDARY cats? Is a ‘DECAT’ exhaust meaning a CATBACK system which does not have cats in the back boxes? Is it possible to fit headers without cats – that would still pass an MOT, or is it a case of getting what I’ve read about.. 200 cell cat headers? What would be the preferred complete set up? No header cats? No back box cats? Are different manufacturers of headers and cat back exhausts using THE SAME dimension pipework? I’ve probably not been very concise, but hopefully you ‘get’ what I’m after.. ideally I’d like to get some headers and exhaust which sound nice, fit together size-wise, reduce where possible restrictive cats, is valved and can be connected to original PSE vacuums/wiring etc.. but also that will be beneficial for a planned plenum upgrade (deciding between 74mm and 82mm with GT3 throttle body) and ECU stage 2.. hopefully, all brought together to work complementing each other by some tuning wizard who I haven’t located yet..!! I do like the sound of the Borel exhaust – but I don’t think that is a valved system. I’d like to get something which sounds deep and throaty – like a 1980’s air-cooled 911..LOL.. , rather than high-pitched and raspy. Any insights, recommendations or general advise or help I’d be really grateful for, please. Many thanks 😊

Hi thanks for your response. While I appreciate your opinion regards these kind of products and the systems they are put into in terms of whether you feel they need them or not, with respect that wasn't my question... I've researched these products in depth and know that they do work and have decided that I would like to use them. My question was around if anyone else had used them and how they had gone about that in terms of ratios of product to oil. Once again thank you for your response.

Hi has anybody used this stuff in their car? It gets very good reviews online and YouTube videos.. Thing is.. I'm in the UK and over here when you take your car to the garage to get the aircon recharged, they use a premix system that puts in the refrigerant and the pag oil to the correct quantity. It's a big machine that they plug onto your AC system and you can't intervene to add anything. So I'd like to look at using this Cool Ox.. but the internet is saying for a 987.1, the correct amount of oil should be 195 ml. So currently my car is charged up with the refrigerant and presumably the right amount of oil. I've purchased an oil/dye injector that you can connect to the low pressure valve.. but I read that it's not a good idea to put too much oil in your AC system. So let me see if I can explain what I'm asking here... What would be the way to go about this.. would You just put the additive in as well as the 195ml of PAG (.. meaning the Cool Ox would not actually count towards the amount of oil already in there, presumably because it will go to work and be used up coating the metal surfaces), or do you add it INSTEAD of the PAG oil, or would you makeup the 195 ml from both the PAG oil AND Cool Ox..? I hope I've explained that ok... Thanks very much in advance.

Hi All, I've researched various threads on various groups regards this upgrade. I'm located in the United Kingdom. I have just bought my first Porsche, a 987.1 Boxster, later model with larger IMS. 63'000mls and runs beautifully. On my past cars I've always (where possible) used magnets on the oil filter, but with the 987.1 being cartridge in plastic holder, can't use magnets. So heard about the LN Engineering adaptor. After lots of reading, to summarise i've learnt the following: A - Standard OEM oil filtering system is a 'Bypass system': OEM filter is cartridge in plastic housing with bypass valve which lets unfiltered oil back into the engine whenever there is a pressure indifference in the filter meaning the filter can't send the normal flow of oil to the engine. This appears to potentially happen in 2 scenarios: Blockage of oil filter element Cold starts where oil is cold and too thick to flow through element fast enough This filter has a larger filtration area, is easy to inspect for sediment on oil change, but (apparently) doesn't provide as high a degree of filtration as the metal spin on filters. B - Spin-on filter Adaptor oil filtering system is a 'Full Flow System': The adaptor facilitates the use of the more common metal screw-on oil filter. The filters LN Engineering recommend for use with their spin on adaptor don't have a bypass valve, meaning if the element was ever blocked, or (apparently) at cold starts, there is no way oil can get to the engine. These filters (apparently) provide a higher degree of filtration (cleaner oil), are easier and less messy to change, and can still be inspected (with the use of an oil filter cutter), however, they are smaller in filtering size compared to the OEM cartridge filter, meaning (as recommended by LN Eng) they require more frequent changing. Ok.. so.. The consensus appears to be that even though the bypass is there to stop excessive wear/damage (unfiltered oil is better than no oil!) people still don't like the idea of unfiltered oil being bypassed back into the engine. Added to this are concerns over the bypass valve in the Porsche OEM system failing, and allowing unfiltered oil back around the engine a lot more than it should be. So the metal spin-on filters recommended by LN Engineering (WIX, Fram, Mahle etc) are selected for their high oil flow rate, and not having any bypass valve. Curiously, when i researched the metal spin-on filters we tend to use here in the UK.. the vast majority DO have a bypass valve fitted, and it is now by far the norm for modern cars to use a filter with a bypass valve. Most spin on filters here in the UK come standard with a bypass valve, not really so much to address a very unlikely blocked filter, but more to offset oil starvation first thing in the morning when it's cold and the oil is at it's thickest, meaning it may struggle to pass through the filter element fast enough, meaning potential engine damage due to slow-arriving oil lubrication.. So I'm about to do an oil change.. i've ordered and received the LN Engineering spin-on adaptor, and a WIX oil filter standing by to go on. But i'm conflicted as to what to do. Here in the UK in winter temperatures can, on occasion, go down to -10c (14 degrees F). The car is running 5w40 fully synthetic. I definitely like the idea of the 'Full Flow System' in ensuring all the oil circulating in the engine has been filtered.. BUT.. even though a clogged filter is unlikely, a cold start isn't..!! Basically, I am worried that if i install the spin on filter with no bypass valve, that in the morning, when firing up the car, i'll be starving it of oil lubrication until the oil is thin enough to pass through the element, thus potentially causing damage. Apologies for the length - i've tried to explain as best i can.. but i now need some people with knowledge and experience, to advise me on the likelihood of cold start oil starvation if i fit the full flow LN Eng adaptor, or should i just stick with OEM with the bypass..? Thanks!

Ok folks... so after considerable time researching i have discovered that the following are workable 18inch Michelin Crossclimate options for the 987 Boxster: Crossclimate 3 Sport F: 235/40 R18 Y (95) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph) R: 255/40 R18 Y (99) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph) Crossclimate 3 F: 245/35 R18 Y (92) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph) R: 255/35 R18 Y (94) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph) Crossclimate 2 F: 235/40 R18 Y (95) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph) R: 255/40 R18 Y (99) (Speed Rating Y – 186mph)

I learnt yesterday that the manuals are year-specific - there ARE differences.. it's not just the same manual covering the whole generation. On the spine and inside there is a code of which the last two digits (in bold) indicate the last two digits of the year of vehicle covered.. this one is an '05 version.. (i'm looking for an '08 version)..

To run these tyres on my 2.7 987.1 08 model, i would need to run the following sizes, as they are the only ones which make a 'set' that Michelin make in the CC3S tyres.. so would they work..? F: 245 35 R18 (10mil wider than standard) R: 265 35 R18

Hi all.. I've just bought my first Porsche.. 987.1 2.7l.. and love it. One of the things i was looking forwards to was buying a full new set of Michelin Crossclimates for it as i have used these tyres for years on other cars - and they're simply amazing. I was encouraged to hear about the CC3 'Sport' new releases, so was fully expecting to fit out with those... or so i thought... 😫 I have standard wheels, fronts are 235/40/R18, rear 265/40/R18. NONE of the Michelin Crossclimate range have 264/40/18. The front size - yes, but not the rear. Long story short.. when you go on Blackcircles, the ONLY Michelin tyres of size 265/40/R18 are: 1 - Pilot Sport 2 £185 2 - Pilot Super Sport Y(101) £198 3 - Pilot Sup😠😠er Sport Y(97) £279 ..????? The only matching front tyres are: Pilot Sport 2 £145. So... wanting to stay with Michelin.. i have only ONE options available to buy a matching set of all four tryes.. Pilot Sport 2... which is a 2005 tyre..!! I've thought about putting 19inch wheels on but my car is used daily, and i don't want too hard a ride.. and despite that.. the issue seems to be that 265 width which is the issue, and apparently Porsche say that no matter what you change wheel and tyre-wise, you MUST NOT change the width.. Michelin Crossclimate Sport come in most any width you want - so long as it's not 265..!! 😠😠😠 I have no idea what to do... i've ridden high powered MCycles most my life and understand the benefits of having a matching set of tyres... so is that it then.. am i stuck with using 20yr old tyre designs and using PS2's..!!??