flyboyshell

sheldon, even I must take my car to the dealer sometimes. i don't *like* to do it, but sometimes 'ya gotta do what ya gotta do'. pay the $100, get their *recommendations* and post them here. you don't have to have the work done that very moment. the warranty on cats is 8 years. so you may even get a new one for free! we'll make sure they don't take you for a ride. :) I called the Porsche dealer and it seems as if my emissions part are under warranty, so if I do need a new Cat I might get away without paying anything. NOW! A new problem: Here is the problem. The new ignition does not work. I put it in, but the key does not turn at all. In fact, it does not even make the clicking sounds as if it is pushed all the way in. The old one I took out seems different to the new one. The new one does not even turn the same way as the old one. So it seems the alignment is out or something. I need help. Do you have any suggestions? Sheldon

No other codes. Only the P0430 so far. I just got it rechecked. Why is there no more P1128 and P1130 but now all of sudden a P0430 I am beginning to doubt the integrity of the OBC. A very confused, Sheldon

LOL! And so the SAGA continues! OK 106 miles downline my infamous CEL comes back on. So I go to Autozone and get it checked. This time I was expecting the exact same codes HP1128 and P1130 BUT I got HP0430 - TWC conversion, bank 2 WHAT NOW??????? Is this car going to bankrupt me? I just got the freaking thing!! :censored: CHRIS?? ANYBODY?

By the way, any ideas how long it will take for the CEL to come back on? I have done 35 miles so far and still no light.

Thanks for the response, Chris and Insite. Chris, my interior door handle would kind of just hang causing the window drop and the interior door panel lights to come on. I did some researching on this site and found that the causes could be the tension spring. Anyway, I disassemble to door and found that in fact it was the tension spring that had broke. What I did was a temporary fix for now. Basically, I just used a plier to bend the end so it would just hold onto the handle pulling it tight enough to pull it firmly. Seems to be working for now. No more annoying lights from coming on or window opening when I go over a bump. Tomorrow I am going to look at the ignition swith and see if I need to adjust it so that it works again. I noticed I put my hand under the dash and on the rear of the ignition and just wiggled the switch a little and now it seems to be a little better. It still takes a few turns, but if I wiggle it just right I manage to start the car. I will give it a good look at tomorrow.

Chris, Thanks again for the information. I worked on the Porsche today and something weird happened. I have to replace the door handle spring on the inside of the door since the current one broke somehow. Anyway, I kind of quick fixed it in the meantime. I got my radio code, disconnected my battery, worked on the car, reconnected the battery, entered my radio code and then once all was in place I started the car. Now, the weird thing is that my CEL is no longer of for some reason. Is this good? I am guessing it is going to be short lived since it originally came on for a reason. Maybe there was some dirt on the MAF? Anyway, I am smiling for now. However, I am going to bet that it might come on again. Well, thats all I have to share with you today. The only thing left is the starting, and yes I am pushing the clutch all the way in. I can even hear the switch once pressed. Sheldon

Thanks again, Chris. Let me try clear things up. I will attempt to get to the engine compartment since I have not had the Porsche long, so I have never really tried to get to it. So I guess that is what my question was concerning that. I did not want to replace the soft top if thats what you thought. Sorry about the misunderstanding. That is the information I am looking for. How to access the engine compartment. I am pretty well training in mechanics, worked on aircrafts for a while, but no Porsches. Hey, you have to start somewhere. Is there anything else I can do while I have access to the engine compartment while I have it open to better maintain the vehicle. Like maybe changing the air-filters, etc? Let me know. 1) I will try get my radio code from the dealer on Thursday since I never code the code which car when I purchased it. Sad, but true. 2) Friday I will attempt to check the MAF, let's hope it is not that serious and just needs a cleaning. From what I am reading in these forums it seems to be a common problem. If not, well, then I will need to investigate further and most like buy a new as the next step. No harm, at least a new one will be installed. Ok, concerning the starting. When I put the key in and turn it to the on position. All lights come on. However, when I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens. I turn it to the left all the way and attempt it again, sometimes several times and sometimes for a couple of minutes (not good if you stall the car). I find that when I turn the key to actually start the car I jiggle it a little, turn it back to off, then back to start and don't turn the key ALL the way to start position, I just barely turn it enough to start the engine and it starts. This happens when it the engine is cold or hot, so it makes no difference. I cannot imagine why it would be the starter, but who knows. It seems that I have the same symptoms as other members on this site. As far as the the company that did my ignition, I don't see a part # on my receipt. However, he charged me a whopping $88 for the ignition switch which he never had when I first got there and $95 for the labor. I wondering if they just messed with the ignition, cause it feels no different it terms of smoothness when turning the key. That's the problem these days, you can never tell if you have been had. He may have just done a temporary fix on it. Not to mention the $110 for an oil change which is pretty standard apparently. It just surprises me how the part mysteriously came from nowhere that day. Spent $351 that day and all I got was an oil change. :cursing: Before I end, do you know where I can get some pictures of where the Air-Oil Separator is located? Thanks again for all your help. Sheldon

have you searched this site for 1128/1130? go to the bottom of the forum page and type '1128 1130' and click the 'search forum' button. there is PLENTY of info. these are quite common codes, which could have a number of reasons for being present. the most common being: -bad Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) -bad Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak -bad O2 sensor(s) as far as the ignition, you mentioned that the dealer replaced the ignition switch, so we'll assume it's not the ignition switch. this might be a stupid question, but are you sure that you have the clutch pedal all the way on the floor when you try to start the car? i doubt it's the starter. also, when starting the car, if the first key turn doesn't start the engine, you must turn the key all the way back to its starting point before you can try to start it again, unlike American cars where you can just turn the key back that 1/4 inch then try to start again. also, you didn't mention manual or auto (tiptronic) transmission, etc. Chris, Thanks for help. I have found some info on the codes and will try the first step in cleaning the MAF carefully before I go ahead and order a new one. I have also ordered a new ignition switch just in case. So come Friday I will be getting down to checking it. Now, my question is what is the procedure for removing the soft top. Also, where can I get part #'s for the following: Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak O2 sensor(s) Oh yeah, its a manual.

Thanks guys!! You are a great help.

I have a 2000 Boxster(986) and was wondering if the the following would work in my car: Part - PT#99664512906 - Porsche 911 996 BOXSTER CDR23 CD RADIO (even though it says 996)

Hi Guys, I need help finding out what the code description of the following are and how serious is the problem: P1128 P1130 I have been doing some research and some people are saying the following: "You state that only fault 1130 has shown up, has 1128 been pending though? The MAF would effect both banks at the same time showing an 1128 and 1130 fault either pending or present." Any ideas on how to resolve the problem? Secondly, I am having problems starting the car. I put the key in, turn to on position and try start it, nothing happens. Sometimes I wil sit for 3-5 trying to start. This is not good, espercially if I stall the car. The dealer "supposedly" replaced the ignition and the car started fine for the 1st day. Then it went back to normal. I am confused. Now he is saying it is the starter. Help!! Sheldon