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Thanks. I was able to check it out this morning and it was exactly as suspected, loose bleeder screw. Interestingly, the brakes were never flushed since purchasing the car over a year ago, and haven't had any problems until now. Must not have been properly torqued by whoever bled the brakes before me. side note, the screw is 11mm not 10mm. '06 cayman s, with red calipers.
Very strange problem... noticed brake fluid low, checked for leaks. Noticed that one of the two brake flush rubber plugs was not on in the driver side rear caliper. Plugged it up, filled it up, drove around. Notice that the plug popped off again. Tried it a few times and it seems like everytime I drive the car, the rubber plug decides to pop off and leak a tiny amount of brake fluid. Anyone know what's going on? Planning on going to the dealer for a flush next week and maybe have them check it out as well.... getting ready for them to tell me that it's because my car is boosted lol...
guess I'm curious if it is possible for the injector to sit too far into te fuel rail causing the tip to not be fully seated into the cylinder port when the fuel rail is bolted on. Just so **** hard to see anything in the cramped engine compartment. Since the injectors are aftermarket I'll have to check next time I'm in there. Good call on the o ring. By the way does the instruction call for removing the intake manifold on either side to lift the fuel rail and r/r the injectors? Thanks!
I agree ignition coil and spark plugs are much more common than injectors. After swapping plugs and coil packs with cylinder 5, I was still experiencing the same misfiring behavior in cylinder 6. Last night I swapped injectors between the two cylinders and now the misfire is happening in cylinder 5 instead of 6. I checked both injectors for damaged o-rings but neither looked cut or ripped. Since the problem was happening intermittently at idle and at very light throttle, I wasn't sold on the idea of bad plugs or coil packs since that would happen more at load than off load. At this point I'm fairly confident that the problem was caused by a faulty injector, so I will swap in a new injector next. I wish there was a way for me to test for proper injector seal to the cylinder, but I don't have a smoke machine handy. Any other suggestions or things I should check while I'm in there? Loren, Would it be possible for you to send me the remove/reinstall instructions for fuel injectors in a 987.1 Cayman? I want to make certain that I'm not missing anything the next time I'm in there replacing the faulty injector. Thank you so much for all your input on this matter.
I agree ignition coil and spark plugs are much more common than injectors. After swapping plugs and coil packs with cylinder 5, I was still experiencing the same misfiring behavior in cylinder 6. Last night I swapped injectors between the two cylinders and now the misfire is happening in cylinder 5 instead of 6. I checked both injectors for damaged o-rings but neither looked cut or ripped. Since the problem was happening intermittently at idle and at very light throttle, I wasn't sold on the idea of bad plugs or coil packs since that would happen more at load than off load. At this point I'm fairly confident that the problem was caused by a faulty injector, so I will swap in a new injector next. I wish there was a way for me to test for proper injector seal to the cylinder, but I don't have a smoke machine handy. Any other suggestions or things I should check while I'm in there?
I've narrowed down my problem to very minor misfire in cylinder # 6 at idle and light throttle. Not quite enough to consistently set off the "blinking CEL" but definitely enough to cause a slight rumble at idle. The slight idle roughness is intermittent and only occurs after the car warms up and idles over 30-45 seconds at a red light. I've tried swapping ignition coil and spark plug with cylinder # 5 but the problem persists in cylinder # 6. I've identified the misfire using the "misfire counter cylinder 6" with the enthusiast version of Durametric 6.x.x. Few questions: 1. how accurate is durametric when it comes to identifying which cylinder is misfiring? is it possible that durametric says cylinder # 6 but it's really another cylinder? 2. the car has < 25k miles. the next likely diagnosis is either a tear in the fuel injector O-ring, or the injector itself. I've searched renntech and other boards but did not find any DIY/technical manual on doing it myself. note: the injectors are aftermarket(Siemens). A rare "blinking" CEL (3 times) over the past 7 months prompted the investigation into misfires. Oh, and I'm not getting a solid CEL. No fault codes either. Thanks everyone !
987 (as well as 986) and 997 (as well as 996) are the same basic engine - so they will all work. Remember the engine in a Boxster or Cayman is turned 180 degrees from the 997 series. There are hundreds of fault codes can trigger a CEL. Best to have the codes read with an OBD II compliant reader and report back here. I am moving this topic to the Cayman (987C1) section. to confirm, that'd mean the rear-most cylinder on the driver side. thank you !
Hi guys, Does anyone have the firing order diagram for the cayman pre-2009? [did a search and only found one for the 997, not sure if same] Also, does anyone know the fault codes associated with a flashing CEL? Thanks !
sorry to revive a dead thread but I've been searching all over the web about a shifter problem i'm experiencing with a car I recently purchased so I hope someone can chime in and give me some input. 2001, CPO 996 Turbo 6-spd w/ stock non-ssk shifter ~ 20k miles. when the car is standing still, clutched in, the shifting action of the shifter is butter. although the throw is slightly long and inaccurate, it pops into gear in one smooth motion. however, when the car is moving, like when you're slowing down for a green light turn and shifting into first or second, clutch all the way in, it is SUPER notchy to get it in the gate. Kinda like how someone explained it, like shifting through gravel. I'm curious if this is the same problem as described by a number of people that fixed their problem by readjusting the cables. I had the dealer check it out as well and they said it's fine. I test drove a friend's 996TT, and while 1st and 2nd weren't as smooth as 3 to 6, it wasn't as bad as mine. can someone please chime in with some advise? thanks ! ps, i'm new here = )
Hey guys, I tried searching and I couldn't find a good guide on how to remove the E-Brake assembly to replace it with a new one. I found a link to one but it was only words and hard to understand. If anyone can link me to one or even tell me how that'd be great. Thanks