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This just happen to mine where the top half moves back and prevents a connection. Is there an easy fix or can I order a harness extension like the one available for the Cayenne. The part number is 955 631 239 0 for the Cayenne. Will this work for 1998 Boxster ?
Mine did the same thing. I decided to upgrade the radio and speakers and now I have sound in all 4 speakers. It turns out my drivers side on the stock radio decided it didn't want to work any more. Upgrade the system, you will glad you did.
I have XM radio with the cable to the head unit. There are 3 connectors....power, antenna and aux going to the XM radio. The aux is smaller than 3.5mm. If I can find an adaptor to 3.5mm, will this work on my droid phone to play music. I know this will be audio only.
Well...car is back running. After 2 weeks, dealer said fuel pump and I told him just changed it. Then without a breath, he said DME and $6,000.00. Told him I thought they rarely go out. Then all of a sudden, 2 hours later, he calls and says there is a broken wire under the top intake. Will be 6 hours labor $750.00. He called me within 3 hours and said it was done. Picked up the car and as soon as I sat in it, realize the seat wasn't bolted (bolts were in the center console). I feel I got ripped off and just decided that I'll re-bolt the seat. I only hope I didn't pay $750.00 for a DME relay. On the plus side, he did program my spare key for free from 3 years ago when I forget to give it to them when the immoblizer drown. Until next time....thanks for all the input !!!!
The dealer said the DME is shot. Not really believing that. First he said the fuel pump, I told him I just changed it. Then he said the DME. Feel like I'm getting ripped off,it took 2 weeks to get this answer. Question, can a used DME from LA Dismantlers get re-programmed for a 1998 Boxster. I have all the codes from the brain under the driver's seat and the car key. LA told me $700.00 for DME or $1,500.00 for DME, unit under the seat and key. If dealer won't or can't program DME, will the $1,500.00 set up need any programming or will it plug and play since all 3 pieces came from the same car. Thanks
I just did mine about 2 weeks ago. I have never done upholstery before. It was pretty easy but take your time. I almost shot a tutorial but didn't. Youtube has plenty for car seats. A few tricks for the 986(that's what I have). After you pull the seat, the main frame comes off with 4 bolts. The back rest come off first, plastic locking strip at the bottom that goes under and behind the seat. Then pull the bottom out and the top will have 3 L shape locks. Just push the backrest towards the top of the headrest. The seat will have 2 gold screws on the underside at the back and the you will see 2 white plastic locks on the underside in the front(pull the round pin and use a screwdiver to pop the plastic lock off. The best tip of all, you have to re-use some plastic rods from the old skins. I used metal rods(can't remember the size, home depot and they had the blue dots,$2.33 per rod, buy 4 of them). The reason is, you will never get the hognose rings where they need to go. I choose the metal rods, cut a slit in the sleeve and used zip ties to pull the skins in place. Worked great. Sounds confusing, but when you look at the new skins and get the first seat apart, it will come together. And the knobs on the headrest to tilt the seat forward, just use something to grab them( I used a screwdriver behind it at the top and bottom) and just pull hard. I would also re-do the padding(extra $250.00 per seat, but worth it). Any questions, call me. I IM my number.
All these codes indicate an interruption of the signal from the DME to the injector coils. OEM manual procedure is to check the individual injector wire harness from the injector to the DME using the infamous 9616 pin out box, looking are resistance and voltage. While this could be a wiring issue (like rodent damage), because all the injectors are out, it may also be a DME issue. you would rule out the fuel pump correct..thanks for the quick reply
Another thought...because of the codes p1237, p1238,p1239,p1240,p1241 and p1242 injector circuit open cylinder 1-6. I starting to think electrical issue. Thoughts ???? I know I didn't have 6 injectors die at the same time....thanks
Let me start by saying that I don't mind easter egging as long as it's not too much $$$. If you really want to know why...it's because I have a disability and can't crawl under the car too much. The car is getting some age on it and it may prevent something that may be waiting to happen. I refuse to ask someone to do it for me if I feel I can do it(and enjoy the pride of doing it myself). With that being said, the relay and crankshaft sensor has been changed. Sensor wasn't too bad. I will like to write up a how-to for novices without the tech words. The car still will not crank....what everyone's thought on the fuel pump? I can't think of anything else. Thanks for any replies.
I don't mind easter-egging a little. If I'm crawling under the car, I'm changing the crank sensor. The relay cost me $10.00. What would be a route to go if it's not the sensor. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
OK...I jumper the relay and could hear a humming from behind the seats before I turned the key. I turned the key in the on position and didn't hear anything near the fuel pump and listened thur the tank with the gas cap off. Tried to crank the car and a no go. Would it be a good bet to go with the fuel pump. Thanks in advance.
One more thing I thought of...Before my car died. I cranked it up, back up, place in it 1st and only got about 3 feet and then it just suddenly shut off. Engine turns over but won't fire off. Thanks for any help.