lib

Hi.

I had a problem similar and this turned out to be the duelmass flywheel.

Regards.

Hi 5700ci

I am sorry, you have reminded me that I should have put some feed back on my post.

Oops sorry again.

Yes the problem is now cured. There were two problems that I discovered I am not sure which was the culprit.

The first was the valve timing. I decided to remove the plastic plugs in the camshaft covers and remove the oil scavenging pumps from the camshaft covers.

I then rotated the engine with the crankshaft nut to align the cam shaft marks.

The Durametric tester indicated that the misfire was on bank 1 so I decided to move the adjustment by moving the gear on the camshaft slightly towards the center of the elongated slots in the gear as the bolts were to the extreme left in the slot.

This brought the timing marks into alignment.

I can only assume that whoever owned the car before me had done some work to it but it had not been done correctly.

I am not sure why the misfire only showed up on tick over when the engine was hot????

The second problem I found when I was checking out the valve timing, and which I hadnt heard before, was when I switched the engine off there was the sound of a bearing or gear still spinning down.

I thought it must be the clutch release bearing, so I removed the gearbox to change it.

I discovered that the flywheel was in two separate pieces. The center rubber cushion of the dual mass flywheel had completely broken up and there was no signs of bits in the housing, its a mystery!!!

I wonder how it drove with no symptoms like the clutch slipping or jerking.

The thought is whether there was an imbalance in the engine that was detected by the sensors and the ECU tried to compensate for it causing the engine to run rich and cause a misfire.

Regards lib.

That indeed is a neat timing tool kit, but not all of the tools in there are 100% necessary unless you're a shop You can get away without some of them. I'll go over the tools here:

P255 holds the cams from falling out when you take out the cam covers, but you can also use P253 to do the same thing.

P256 holds the cams in place after you release the two cam holders that hold them in place - useful if you're working on the engine with it still in the car, but if the engine is on the stand, simply rotate the engine upwards to prevent them from falling out

P258 crankshaft lock. Simply use a 5/16th drill bit and save yourself some money

P253 is the only tool that I think is pretty necessary, but you can also index the camshafts at the end by their markings. I don't have a good photo of this up on the web right now, but I will in the next week or so...

JFP is right - the process is not very difficult (not like an air cooled 911 motor), but the potential to mess things up is high if you don't have the proper tools or knowledge.

-Wayne

HI.

Thanks JFP and Wayne

Thats very useful stuff I will remove the green plug and cautiously try and make progress.

Thanks very much

Regards Lionel

Hi All

I have a 1997 Boxster 2.5 man trans. RoW.

I have the Cyl. head off bank 1 and the chain to this bank has moved from the camshaft gear.

The question is how do I find when piston number 1 is on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke without taking the cam cover off bank 2.

Would I check for piston #4 coming on to compression or is it piston #6 coming on to compression that would indicate that piston #1 is on the exhaust stroke which would line up on the crankshaft pulley.

I hope I have been able to explain clearly?

Many thanks Lionel

Loren's on to something, awful lot of codes. It might be a central problem that cascades and throws everything out of whack.

Most Codes seem to point to heat, shorts (shorts make heat, or heat can look like a short) resistance (more heat), heat, heaat, and more heat.

Don't know how technology has progressed, but I remember a thing call arcing where bad ignition components, especially plug wires, would arc, at running temp. and run like 'ell. You could actually see it like lightening if it were bad enough and dark enough.

Could be the equivalent of bad the bad coils Loren mentioned.

Regards, P-

Hi PK

Thanks for your info. The Porsche centre pu 6 new coil packs in a few months ago and said that would solve the problem but alas NO

This is a real stinker of a problem just cant seem to get yet.

Regards Lionel

Thanks Loren

I will check out the wiring and let you know.

Regards Lionel

P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit

possible causes:

- Open circuit.

- Short circuit to ground.

If you are still getting this code you need to check the wiring to the MAF.

P1530 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1

- Short to ground.

- Actuator faulty.

Unless you think you might have bad coils or more wiring problems I would fix this first as it could be causing the misfires.

P1115 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

P1119 Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 Ahead of Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

Contact resistance.

- Heating resistance too high.

- Open circuit in heating current circuits.

- Open circuit in H02S signal wire.

- Short to B+ (output stage cut off).

Odd that all of these would occur are one time - have you visually inspected the wiring to these items and the harness.

Almost makes me think the DME connector is loose or damaged. Or even a bad ground from engine to chassis?

Hello all

I have a 1997 ROW Boxster 2.5 which when it gets up to temperature will misfire at idle and put the cell on.

When I first had this problem of misfire at idle the Durametric showed misfire on bank 1 and cam adjustment fault.

I subsequently removed the variocam adjuster and changed the slipper shoes as they were slightly marked but could not find any thing wrong with it.

I fitted it all back together and road test. te car went really well but after a few miles i stopped at a junction at idle the engine started to misfire again.

when I checked it with the Durametric I discovered to my amazement bank2 had the misfire and bank 1 was OK!!!!!

I then fitted another o2 sensor to bank 2, I had previously fitted one to bank1

I also changed the maf sensor as durametric showed fault with maf hot film.

Today I checked with the Durametric and find that the fault has changed back to bank 1.

I have done nothing to the car other than clear the faults and test it again to See what faults will show up this time.

I have added the fault codes in the hope that someone can interpret them for me.

P0102 Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor

P1530 Unknown DTC: 1530

P1115 Porsche fault code 13 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B1 exceeds limit value

P1119 Porsche fault code 5 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B2 exceeds limit value

P0301 Porsche fault code 508 - Misfire cylinder 1

P0302 Porsche fault code 510 - Misfire cylinder 2

P0303 Porsche fault code 512 - Misfire cylinder 3

Many thank for reading my tales of woe.

Regards Lionel

If you didn't have a fault with the headlights or switch before this don't you think the fault might be in the area of the bulbs you replaced? Maybe something got connected wrong when you changed out the instrument bulbs.

I guess that's possible, but I don't recall changing any wires or plugs per say, just added the small bulb into the socket that was fit into the back of the tachometer and high beam light. They worked appropriately when I put them in. There do appear to be some connectors floating around that don't appear to have a home (so I've placed electrical tape across them until I can trace them either by the wiring diagram or manually over the winter.

I've also ordered a replacement switch via eBay (US $40 vice $205 at other store site) - hope it works out - same part number and all.

Would you know the correct positions for each of the wires that come off the back of the light switch? I was deliberate in marking them, but some were "fused" to say the least.

Hi Skip I have a wiring circuit that may be of some help . Hope I can get it to copy ok .

Regards Lionel

Sorry about this, I just cant get the diagram to show. I have uploaded it , it dose not show anywhere.

Lionel :huh:

If you didn't have a fault with the headlights or switch before this don't you think the fault might be in the area of the bulbs you replaced? Maybe something got connected wrong when you changed out the instrument bulbs.

I guess that's possible, but I don't recall changing any wires or plugs per say, just added the small bulb into the socket that was fit into the back of the tachometer and high beam light. They worked appropriately when I put them in. There do appear to be some connectors floating around that don't appear to have a home (so I've placed electrical tape across them until I can trace them either by the wiring diagram or manually over the winter.

I've also ordered a replacement switch via eBay (US $40 vice $205 at other store site) - hope it works out - same part number and all.

Would you know the correct positions for each of the wires that come off the back of the light switch? I was deliberate in marking them, but some were "fused" to say the least.

Hi Skip I have a wiring circuit that may be of some help . Hope I can get it to copy ok .

Regards Lionel

If I remember correctly, the upper starter bolt is a 12mm allen type socket.

Hi Thanks I kept feeling around looking for a 17mm nut the same as the lower fixing. I now know what to feel around for.

Many thanks wvicary.

Regards Lionel :D :renntech:

Mine was a 10mm Allen Wrench on a 3/8" socket that I used. The only way to easily access (somewhat sarcastic) the upper bolt was over the top of the transmission - seems odd, but there's a heck of a lot more space than directly from the front. This way I could guid the socket into place by feel rather than simple trial and error.

Hi Skip. Thanks for your reply. Yes mine happens to be a 10mm too. Phew what a job! I still havent managed to get the allen bolt loose.

I have tried with the 3/8 sockets but it is to tight to move. I bought a 10mm 1/2 socket but the long extension is to long and of course the short extension is to short??

I dont know where to go from here Ill have to try and think of some thing.

Thanks again Lionel

If I remember correctly, the upper starter bolt is a 12mm allen type socket.

Hi Thanks I kept feeling around looking for a 17mm nut the same as the lower fixing. I now know what to feel around for.

Many thanks wvicary.

Regards Lionel :D :renntech:

Hi I'm glad you sorted it out. I am trying to remove the starter from my 1986 carrera 3.2.

I have removed all the wiring and slackened the lower fixing nut but I cannot get a spanner in on the top fixing.

I should be very grateful for any help on how to remove the starter motor.

Thanks Lionel

These bolts hold the timing.

The timing is set with special pins from Porsche (I don't remember the part/tool #).

when the screws of these special pins are flush (if you have the tool you'll know what I mean)

then the timing is set --- you then tighten these bolts to 14 ft lbs of torque.

I just did this a couple days ago.

I'm surprised that these bolts along with the slotted nature of the cross are able to hold the timing,

but that is how it is designed.

Mike

Thanks Mike

I shall have a look on eBay, hope I can find it. Sounds quite tricky.

Thanks again Lionel ;)

Hi, me again

I am in the process of putting it back together again. I have refitted the camshafts and the variocam mechanism, which by the way I didn't find anything suspect. Every thing appeared fine So most proberly I can expect the misfire and fault code to return.

Anyway, the reason for writing is, there are 4 bolts holding the gear and oil pump drive plate on the end of the exhaust cam. These 4 bolts pass through 4 elongated slots in the chain gear into the end of the exhaust cam.

Do you know what this adjustment is for, bearing in mind the slot at the opposite end of the exhaust cam sets the timing.

Thanks Lionel

Boxster 2.5 my97. 5 speed box. RoW. :renntech:

Thank you suberban99

The video was superb, I certainly would not have been able to sort it out without this info. and the other info. on this subject.

Thanks again and to Renntech great site. :renntech:

I will write again and let you know how I get on.

arctic silver my97 2.5 man. gbox. RoW

Hi excellent stuff. I am in the process of doing the same job, I can see the timing marks for the crankshaft and the exhaust cam but I cannot see how to align the inlet cam. I should be grateful for your help with this. Thanks Lionel

I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?

I did not notice the timing was out when I first dug into the engine. After I changed the solenoid the same error codes kept coming back. Before changing the solenoid I tested the wires from the solenoid to the DME...and the wires for the camshaft position sensor to the DME. I also swapped the camshaft sensor from right side to left side and still had same error codes on right side.

The second time I took it apart I put the engine to TDC #1 and check the timing marks. The chain between the camshafts had skipped 1 tooth. I pulled the camshafts and the Varia Cam unit and the camshaft guides on the bottom of the Varia Cam unit were broken and you could see where chain was getting caught. A new varia cam unit is about $600-800 and the used one I got was $100 (excellent shape)

The only way to get them in or out is together. Not very easy when the engine is in car but possible...

P0102 says your MAF is either not connected or bad. Check the wiring and/or replace the MAF.

Clear the codes and see if the O2 sensors come back to normal (no codes).

P1455 says the AC condensor has an open circuit also. But it is not related to the engine MAF issue.

Thanks Loren I will check the wiring but the MAF was replaced a few months ago.

Thank you again Lionel

Hi Loren

I have carefully checked the wiring to the Maf sensor and there is continuity in each wire, no shorts and no earths.

I have 5volts between term, nos. 4 and3,and

12volts between term. nos. 5 and 3

The resistance between term.1 and 3 is 2700. on the maf itself.

The maf was replaced a few months ago in a attempt to resolve this problem.

The Bosch number on the new maf was 0 280 217 007

Any help solving this issue would be much appreciated

Thanks Lionel

P0102 says your MAF is either not connected or bad. Check the wiring and/or replace the MAF.

Clear the codes and see if the O2 sensors come back to normal (no codes).

P1455 says the AC condensor has an open circuit also. But it is not related to the engine MAF issue.

Thanks Loren I will check the wiring but the MAF was replaced a few months ago.

Thank you again Lionel

Way too many codes - I would clear them and see which ones come back.

Ok Loren, Thanks

I will do that and report back

Lionel

Hi Loren I have cleared the fault codes and I list below the ones that have appeared on the Durametirc.

Many thanks Lionel

Motronic 5.2.2

Current Fault Codes

________________________________________

P1455

Porsche fault code 170 - A/C compressor control

Open circuit

________________________________________

P0102

Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor

________________________________________

P1115

Porsche fault code 13 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B1

exceeds limit value

________________________________________

P1119

Porsche fault code 5 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B2

exceeds limit value

________________________________________

Way too many codes - I would clear them and see which ones come back.

Ok Loren, Thanks

I will do that and report back

Lionel

1998 Boxster 2.5 RoW 5speed manual box.

My car has been nothing but trouble since I bought it.

It has new CPU DME unit, ignition switch, coil pack set, maff sensor, oxygen sensor over the years but it is still not fixed. I am reluctant to take it back to the main dealer as I have lost confidence in them.

I have bought a Durametric test tool and its latest fault codes are listed below.

I should be grateful for any observations that would lead to this Boxster becoming a real Porsche.

Regards Lionel.

Current Fault Codes

________________________________________

P1602

Porsche fault code 660 - CAN timeout - instrument cluster

________________________________________

P0102

Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor

________________________________________

P1340

Porsche fault code 322 - Camshaft position with respect

to crankshaft bank 1 exceeds limit value

________________________________________

P1319

Unknown DTC: 1319

________________________________________

P1314

Unknown DTC: 1314

________________________________________

P1315

Unknown DTC: 1315

________________________________________

P1115

Porsche fault code 13 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B1

exceeds limit value

________________________________________

P1119

Porsche fault code 5 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B2

exceeds limit value

________________________________________

P1313

Unknown DTC: 1313

________________________________________

P1585

Unknown DTC: 1585

________________________________________

P1531

Unknown DTC: 1531

________________________________________

P1455

Porsche fault code 170 - A/C compressor control

Open circuit

________________________________________

P0134

Porsche fault code 10 - O2 sensor ahead of cat. conv.

bank 1

________________________________________

P0300

Porsche fault code 507 - Misfire detection

(total)

________________________________________

P0301

Porsche fault code 508 - Misfire cylinder 1

________________________________________

P0302

Porsche fault code 510 - Misfire cylinder 2

________________________________________

P0303

Porsche fault code 512 - Misfire cylinder 3

________________________________________

Sounds like you have a ROW engine, but the DME is not running an ROW program and thus thinks there should be a signal from the second cam sensor that is not there. I would suggest you have the DME flashed with the proper ROW programming.

It is not a fault of the Durametric software, it is simply reporting the codes that are present. The code is in the DME so the Durametric is reporting it.

Todd

Hello. Long time listener, first time caller.

I've got an '02 boxer S. The alarm recently started acting up. I can lock the car just fine, but the alarm doesn't activate correctly. The horn doesn't honk during arming, but two red LEDs flash about ten times on the dash. When I unlock the car it beeps twice. While I'm driving the car, the doors stay locked and I'm not able to unlock them with the dash buttom. If I hit the unlock button while driving, the car beeps twice at me. I have no idea what's going on. There's no moisture near the alarm control box and all indications are that my sensors are okay.

Hi

My Boxster does a similar thing and my Durametric tester tells me there is a lock problem drivers side and the interior sensor is not working.

So I think 2 beeps means that one of the devices that ensures that the car is ready to be armed is not working i.e. luggage lids. doors, glove box and hood.