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lib

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About lib

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars
    Computers
    Water skiing

Profile Fields

  • From
    Wales UK.
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    911. 1986.
    Boxster 1998.
  • Former cars
    Triumph Roadster
    Austin A40 sports. Ford Zodiac convertible
    Morris Mini Cooper S 1275
    Triumph TR3a

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  1. Hi. I had a problem similar and this turned out to be the duelmass flywheel. Regards.
  2. Hi 5700ci I am sorry, you have reminded me that I should have put some feed back on my post. Oops sorry again. Yes the problem is now cured. There were two problems that I discovered I am not sure which was the culprit. The first was the valve timing. I decided to remove the plastic plugs in the camshaft covers and remove the oil scavenging pumps from the camshaft covers. I then rotated the engine with the crankshaft nut to align the cam shaft marks. The Durametric tester indicated that the misfire was on bank 1 so I decided to move the adjustment by moving the gear on the camshaft slightly towards the center of the elongated slots in the gear as the bolts were to the extreme left in the slot. This brought the timing marks into alignment. I can only assume that whoever owned the car before me had done some work to it but it had not been done correctly. I am not sure why the misfire only showed up on tick over when the engine was hot???? The second problem I found when I was checking out the valve timing, and which I hadnt heard before, was when I switched the engine off there was the sound of a bearing or gear still spinning down. I thought it must be the clutch release bearing, so I removed the gearbox to change it. I discovered that the flywheel was in two separate pieces. The center rubber cushion of the dual mass flywheel had completely broken up and there was no signs of bits in the housing, its a mystery!!! I wonder how it drove with no symptoms like the clutch slipping or jerking. The thought is whether there was an imbalance in the engine that was detected by the sensors and the ECU tried to compensate for it causing the engine to run rich and cause a misfire. Regards lib.
  3. HI. Thanks JFP and Wayne Thats very useful stuff I will remove the green plug and cautiously try and make progress. Thanks very much Regards Lionel
  4. Hi All I have a 1997 Boxster 2.5 man trans. RoW. I have the Cyl. head off bank 1 and the chain to this bank has moved from the camshaft gear. The question is how do I find when piston number 1 is on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke without taking the cam cover off bank 2. Would I check for piston #4 coming on to compression or is it piston #6 coming on to compression that would indicate that piston #1 is on the exhaust stroke which would line up on the crankshaft pulley. I hope I have been able to explain clearly? Many thanks Lionel
  5. Hi PK Thanks for your info. The Porsche centre pu 6 new coil packs in a few months ago and said that would solve the problem but alas NO This is a real stinker of a problem just cant seem to get yet. Regards Lionel
  6. Thanks Loren I will check out the wiring and let you know. Regards Lionel
  7. Hello all I have a 1997 ROW Boxster 2.5 which when it gets up to temperature will misfire at idle and put the cell on. When I first had this problem of misfire at idle the Durametric showed misfire on bank 1 and cam adjustment fault. I subsequently removed the variocam adjuster and changed the slipper shoes as they were slightly marked but could not find any thing wrong with it. I fitted it all back together and road test. te car went really well but after a few miles i stopped at a junction at idle the engine started to misfire again. when I checked it with the Durametric I discovered to my amazement bank2 had the misfire and bank 1 was OK!!!!! I then fitted another o2 sensor to bank 2, I had previously fitted one to bank1 I also changed the maf sensor as durametric showed fault with maf hot film. Today I checked with the Durametric and find that the fault has changed back to bank 1. I have done nothing to the car other than clear the faults and test it again to See what faults will show up this time. I have added the fault codes in the hope that someone can interpret them for me. P0102 Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor P1530 Unknown DTC: 1530 P1115 Porsche fault code 13 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B1 exceeds limit value P1119 Porsche fault code 5 - Resist. limit O2S ah. of cat. conv. B2 exceeds limit value P0301 Porsche fault code 508 - Misfire cylinder 1 P0302 Porsche fault code 510 - Misfire cylinder 2 P0303 Porsche fault code 512 - Misfire cylinder 3 Many thank for reading my tales of woe. Regards Lionel
  8. I guess that's possible, but I don't recall changing any wires or plugs per say, just added the small bulb into the socket that was fit into the back of the tachometer and high beam light. They worked appropriately when I put them in. There do appear to be some connectors floating around that don't appear to have a home (so I've placed electrical tape across them until I can trace them either by the wiring diagram or manually over the winter. I've also ordered a replacement switch via eBay (US $40 vice $205 at other store site) - hope it works out - same part number and all. Would you know the correct positions for each of the wires that come off the back of the light switch? I was deliberate in marking them, but some were "fused" to say the least. Hi Skip I have a wiring circuit that may be of some help . Hope I can get it to copy ok . Regards Lionel Sorry about this, I just cant get the diagram to show. I have uploaded it , it dose not show anywhere. Lionel :huh:
  9. I guess that's possible, but I don't recall changing any wires or plugs per say, just added the small bulb into the socket that was fit into the back of the tachometer and high beam light. They worked appropriately when I put them in. There do appear to be some connectors floating around that don't appear to have a home (so I've placed electrical tape across them until I can trace them either by the wiring diagram or manually over the winter. I've also ordered a replacement switch via eBay (US $40 vice $205 at other store site) - hope it works out - same part number and all. Would you know the correct positions for each of the wires that come off the back of the light switch? I was deliberate in marking them, but some were "fused" to say the least. Hi Skip I have a wiring circuit that may be of some help . Hope I can get it to copy ok . Regards Lionel
  10. Hi Thanks I kept feeling around looking for a 17mm nut the same as the lower fixing. I now know what to feel around for. Many thanks wvicary. Regards Lionel :D :renntech: Mine was a 10mm Allen Wrench on a 3/8" socket that I used. The only way to easily access (somewhat sarcastic) the upper bolt was over the top of the transmission - seems odd, but there's a heck of a lot more space than directly from the front. This way I could guid the socket into place by feel rather than simple trial and error. Hi Skip. Thanks for your reply. Yes mine happens to be a 10mm too. Phew what a job! I still havent managed to get the allen bolt loose. I have tried with the 3/8 sockets but it is to tight to move. I bought a 10mm 1/2 socket but the long extension is to long and of course the short extension is to short?? I dont know where to go from here Ill have to try and think of some thing. Thanks again Lionel
  11. Hi Thanks I kept feeling around looking for a 17mm nut the same as the lower fixing. I now know what to feel around for. Many thanks wvicary. Regards Lionel :D :renntech:
  12. Hi I'm glad you sorted it out. I am trying to remove the starter from my 1986 carrera 3.2. I have removed all the wiring and slackened the lower fixing nut but I cannot get a spanner in on the top fixing. I should be very grateful for any help on how to remove the starter motor. Thanks Lionel
  13. Thanks Mike I shall have a look on eBay, hope I can find it. Sounds quite tricky. Thanks again Lionel ;)
  14. Hi, me again I am in the process of putting it back together again. I have refitted the camshafts and the variocam mechanism, which by the way I didn't find anything suspect. Every thing appeared fine So most proberly I can expect the misfire and fault code to return. Anyway, the reason for writing is, there are 4 bolts holding the gear and oil pump drive plate on the end of the exhaust cam. These 4 bolts pass through 4 elongated slots in the chain gear into the end of the exhaust cam. Do you know what this adjustment is for, bearing in mind the slot at the opposite end of the exhaust cam sets the timing. Thanks Lionel Boxster 2.5 my97. 5 speed box. RoW. :renntech:
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