fastboydave

After the engine, gearbox, brakes etc etc has warmed up there's no hard or fast rule. You drive as to what suits you and how you like it to feel behind the wheel. Just enjoy the Porsche experience and dont be 'mathematical' about it. Feel the gears/engine revs and with practise that will tell you when you should change up and adapt for different styles of driving (cruising, spirited, mental!). Enjoy yourself!

Is this just specifically the Carrera engines (i.e. not dry sump, TT & GT3 etc)??? This is one of the many reasons i chose to continue the Porsche warrantee (up to 9 years or 125k mls). Its OK for little things to go, but £895/annum for the warrantee is a small price to pay if the engine/gearbox/turbo's etc etc (anything pricey, especially with the labour) die.

Whether the article is a real indication or not, these engines especially the price you pay for the vehicles should be alot more reliable than they appear to be?? Correct me if i'm wrong?? And its not as though they are developing well over 100bhp/litre too.

Oh dear oh dear, that doesnt look good..............

Surely the "11" of 19x11 means its a 295 fit?? But, if you want a bit extra 'protection' for your rims (with curbs), why not go for the middle of what has been suggested?? You are correct though, watch they dont catch your rear wings............

I would definitely remove the console if its proving to be difficult for two reasons. 1) you may slip and mark it and 2) better access/more torque applied. It is relatively easy if you follow the B&M removal instructions and other instructions i found on this magnificant site! I was replacing handbrake and gear lever at that time.............

Why dont you take it into an OPC or respected indy and get it checked over before you go?? Not a service, but if you will a health check??? I would...........

I'm having a few boost issues at the moment also, only achieving 0.6 bar rather than 0.7-0.8 bar.....

Anyway, i would suggest that even though they 'tuned' your ECU to demand more boost, if the 'safety' limit hasnt been altered correctly or got corrupted, then maybe this is why your ECU thinks your are over boosting and going into safe?? Remember, its all parameters and limits in those things and it sounds like one or two aint right?

Conversion Rule: To convert from Gallons to Liters, multiply the number of Gallons by 3.7854 and,

to convert from Liters to Gallons, multiply the number of Liters by 0.26417

For the US gallon yeah. But i was talking about UK gallon, which is 4.54 litres. So when i talk about $10/gallon (UK) in my previous post, that is because we are charged £1.10/litre (approx $2/litre), therefore a gallon (UK) is £1.10 x 4.54 = £4.99 (approx $10).

I highly suggest anyone interested in how OBD II functions on the Carrera pick up a copy of the 996 OBD II Manual (DME 5.2.2) -- (Sunset Imports has them on sale for $55). There are complete descriptions of function, theory, troubleshooting and Porsche terms (such warm-up cycle, drive cycle, trip, readiness code, etc.). A very valuable reference tool.

Loren........... superb!! That has made me smile! :D

bwillis, impressive, most impressive............ I see you have researched and know your stuff well! :D Just thought i'd mention it incase you got 'done'. Nice one my friend.

Fastboy: You folks are buying by the litre, so it is a slightly larger volume than the gallon, but that still exceeds our prices by quite a bit. Also, we're getting 91 ROM here, and you folks...even with your "cheap stuff" are up to 95. I wish we had some place around here that routinely sold 95. There are only a very few stations that sell the higher octanes. Otherwise you have to buy racing gas....or I'll buy Toluene by the 5 gallon can and mix it in with the 91 for my 87 930S.

You mentioned you are getting 18-20 mpg.....but wouldnt' that also be metric in KPG? Therefore a bit less in the MPG conversion? I'd be on the seventh step of Nirvana if I could routinely get 20mpg out of it during spirited driving. But as so many will say....you didn't buy ia 996TT to whine about gas consumption.

Chuck, we do buy by the litre yes, but my calcs were to 'our' gallon which is 4.54 litres. My figures of 18-20 mpg are from my on board computer in the main clock (set to MPG (UK)), which i reset each time i fill up. Dont know how acurate it is, but i get that kind of MPG with my daily commute (crawling traffic, stop start, few overtaking manouvers etc) and weekend driving (motorway and open roads more). Obviously, the roads in our tiny little country are a little jammed up and you cant 'toe it' every time, but i do my best!!! Ofcourse, i may get little better mpg due to higher octane fuel. I believe this helps??

I suggest that as the car runs rich initially at startup from cold (you can smell excess 'fuel' at the exhaust for a while) then if you leave to idle it will take much longer for it to reach temp and hit normal parameters prolonging this 'rich' condition. If you drive away, then it gets 'warm' quicker. Every manufacturer will tell you NOT to let a car idle without a load applied. Think it maybe something to do with carbonising the valves too?

I agree the car does run rich on cold statup, it's in open loop mode meaning using a predetermined fuel and spark map. It's not until certain paramaters are met that allows it to go into closed loop mode with dependance on sensor input to actually try and achieve the proper ratios. The more rich blow by produces more contaminates in the oil, not to mention washing the cylinders walls more. The faster you warm the engine up, the quicker the condensation internally boils off. Not to mention a too rich a mixture for a prolonged period of time cause carbon. No myth!

Exactly KevinMac, couldnt have said it better myself! Job done, here endeth the lesson........... But if none of the above believe........ then continue to do what you do and see what happens? Maybe they know better than the automotive manufacturers hey?? ;)

My one comment would be about your rear number plate. Are size, font and spacing of letters correct?? Do you have a "BS" (British Standard) stamp in the bottom right cormer i think it is?? I know you said the overall size was smaller, but did this affect your lettering?? Although many guy's over here with 'private' plates change the font, spacing and letters to make names etc, the Police can be picky and it gets expensive if caught! And they get more picky if you have a nice car.........

I suggest that as the car runs rich initially at startup from cold (you can smell excess 'fuel' at the exhaust for a while) then if you leave to idle it will take much longer for it to reach temp and hit normal parameters prolonging this 'rich' condition. If you drive away, then it gets 'warm' quicker. Every manufacturer will tell you NOT to let a car idle without a load applied. Think it maybe something to do with carbonising the valves too?

How old is your TT?? I believe the older models had this 'feature'. Mine is October 2001, and i use a maintainer with no problem. Maybe there is a 'trick' that Loren can give you to get round it?

I cant believe what i've read above?? Under NO circumstances should AIR be introduced to any hydraulic system! If you have an issue with your clutch, it is because either air IS in the system already, your clutch is wearing out, or there is some other problem. You dont 'fluff' something to treat the symptoms, you solve the route cause. Air is unpredictable and over the course of time changes. Let me ask a question, would you introduce AIR into your brake system?? NO, thought not! So there is your answer.

I have had air in my clutch system (not by choice) and the pedal/bite goes to the floor, NOT the other way round. Also the 'bite' becomes 'unpredictable' in that the bite position keeps changing. I suggest that if your bite is high, your clutch is on the way out. I think that i have read on here there is slight adjustment you can make, but only slight, so book it in for a clutch job. Done.

Steve D: I've had mine 3 months, and the honeymoon just keeps going. I don't think it'll stop....well maybe when gas hits $5.00 a gallon. Gotta' pitty those Britts for the cost of their gas...

Pity away Chuck, we are paying £4.99/gallon (approx $10/gallon) for high octane Shell 99 RON. Even the cheap stuff (95RON) is $9.40/gallon. OK, our gallon is slightly larger, but what a tax rip off!!! But hey, its all worth it........... i guess??

Incidentally, my mpg with all round types of driving (motorway, stop go traffic etc) is 18-20ish, and i dont hang about either.

I'd suggest that if it is the 'standard' Turbo (Non X50) it is now running too much boost/advance timing for your grade fuel and conditions?? I obviously dont have any experience with your octane fuel, but the fuel over here apparently is much higher octane. Most of the company's that 'tune' TT here, will only put the non-X50 to max 1bar boost. Although i agree with most of what is said above, I suspect the fuel pump and injectors etc are perfectly within their working capacity (for only an ECU remap) but the advance and turbo pressure is too high and the safety parameters of the ECU etc are being exceeded. Just my thoughts.......... Dave.

I was told you have to take the windscreen out to get it off as its 'under' the glass. I have a similar issue with a 'gap' in the rubber, but will not go to that trouble as its not too noticable.

When you say always there, is that regardless of engine running?? Do you have electric seats?? My thought would be if its inside and you have electric seats, then the motor is 'buzzing'. However, if its only with the engine running and its lumpy etc, is it fuel pump??

Thing is porsche 996 c4 dg, if you put the rear wheels in the garage it will just simply push off and you wont tell. Its very difficult, i suppose the only way is lift the car on all four corners. I suspect everything is fine and you have nothing to worry about. Infact, wouldnt a 'dash light' illuminate telling you of an issue?? Maybe someone knows??

How old is your battery?? Anything greater than 3 years and your doing well and would point at the battery. If your are seeing a voltage, then the terminals are connected (albeit doesnt have to be well connected as no 'real' current flow), but if you are seeing your battery get less each time, then it is 'going' isnt it???

I thought they are all at 7400rpm?? Sure it wasnt a GT3??

Your '4x4' only gives something like 5-40% drive at the front (variable), therefore i would suggest that if the grip is the same at front and rear, the rears will only spin (mine does too). Only in unusual circumstances where you have low grip at front and high at rear would the front spin. The front 'drive' is not designed to run for prelonged periods of time too, as its a viscous clutch i think and will get a bit hot? Also, the tyres are narrower at the front, which in snow gives higher grip as it cuts through better.

GTF, i wouldnt bother with snow tyres, it surely will only improve it a very small percentage? Get yourself a little front wheel drive runaround (with narrow tyres), or a proper 4x4 to do that stuff. Mind, there will be many guys on here that have gone down that route who will be able to advise i guess..........

Just buy yourself a TT. Would you buy a supercharged 996 thats been messed with?? I'd suggest that very few people would, hence resale value greatly diminished. Get yourself an X50TT, have a stage 1 and your laughing. That will be enough power for you surely? Its not just about the engine, you'll also have the 'Turbo' set up.