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fastboydave

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Everything posted by fastboydave

  1. Dont waste your time and money. The performance increase will be 'slight'. Save your money and get a 996 Turbo. Then if that isnt enough, get an ECU remap and that will give you another 60-80bhp alone.......... That would be my advise.
  2. Is it from the seat 'padding' or under the seat (rails)?? If its from the seat padding, specifically the back rest i had an issue. You have to unclip the padding from the from of the back rest. My issue was the 'foam' within the seat was rubbing/squeeking on the meatl surround. I just pushed a piece of folded paper in it and no more issues. I suspect silcon grease would do the job too. You need to locate it first. Good luck.
  3. The on switch or loose 'power' onnection at back maybe???
  4. It will deliver the power fairly gradually yes, you wont get full boost straight away it 'ramps up'. Its more for ease of driving as anything else as well as not straining the drive train. However, the point you raised was that it doesnt happen when you have been driving it hard already? And my previous thoughts seem to withstand that.
  5. Sounds like the Turbo's are taking a while to spool up. If you've been ragging it already, they will be already spining partially and the 'lag' is greatly reduced. Also, the engine ECU (that controls all these things) will give you optimum fuel economy when driving slow (valve timing, ignition advance, turbo bypass etc) and when you open the taps it says "hold on, does he mean this? Ah, yes he does" and gives you the beans! The only true way to find out is drive another (ask at Porsche) or take it in to see if any issue (fault codes). My 996TT is similar when pottering around, however if always 'on it' there's no such issue......
  6. I first stepping into a Porsche by buying a brand new Box S. Like you i kept it for three years, then went to a 996TT. I chose manual for three reasons. 1) Faster (from official figures, but depends how good you are at changing gears??) 2) Better fuel economy (not that it really matters) & 3) More driving pleasure (if driven as it should be). In terms of reliability, i dont know how reliable Tips are, but clearly you have to buy a new clutch when it wears out. If driven correctly, i'd suggest that it will last in excess of 50k miles. I had mine replaced at 30k (other work was being done in that area and killed two birds with one stone to save labour) and they said it was about half worn. The issues i have had with the manual/clutch is the release baring (why the work was being done in that area) the slave cylinder and the accumulator (clurch fluid reservoir). Which brings me nicely onto the extended warrantee and Porsche check. I bought from private dealer and got them to take it to Porsche (Hatfield UK) to do their check (around £200). If this is thumbs up, it allows you to buy a Porsche warrantee at (now) £895/annum. This covers all major stuff, apart from trim, fixings and wear etc and two of the three issues i had above (slave cyl, and baring). I have also had a few other issues over the last 3 years of owber ship and basically have got my money back for the warrantee 3 fold. So from my point of view, it was well worth it. It is as you find it tough and some may disagree. Maybe you have it on for the first year at least, that way anything crops up you should be covered. Personally i would look for an unmodified X50 996TT. Taht way you know the baseline and you know what you are doing to it. Otherwise you have absolutley no idea what stresses and strains have been put onto the vehicle it is not designed for?? Keep in mind though, if you modify ANY of the mechanics/electrics, NO Porsche warrntee will be able to be purschased or honoured. Happy shopping.
  7. I'm sure its definitely more expensive when you have a "Porsche", but the problem is to get a quote, you have to take it to them to view. Most bodyshops (here in the UK anyway) want to see the car. So what do you do?? I could do with a 'refurb' on the rear bumper after someone 'grazed' the side of the bumper. Small cheap looking body shop wanted £470 (approx $900). If i went to the 'approved Porsche' place, add another couple of hundred Dollars on! Even "Chipsaway" wanted $400 and thats without removing the bumper and just spraying the bumper with an average job and their 'special paint'. You may save a few quid if you remove the bumper and take it to them and put it back yourself. Pretty easy to do. The only thing, the match may be not too good if they dont have a comparison??
  8. My UK spec Turbo (right hand drive) holds 64 litres......
  9. Always leave it in gear too my friend! Handbrakes/cables/shoes have been known to fail on any car...........
  10. Is this a 'creaking' or ticking noise up front?? Check this link out where i have posted before for a particular windscreen issue...... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=windshield It may be your problem??
  11. Cheers. Do you have to remove the turbo's too to do the shields on those?? Dave.
  12. Folks..... Apparently my turbo heat shields are corroded and require replacing and my exhaust heat shield in most places is loose. Is there a quick easy method of doing the jobs rather than removing the turbo's and exhaust etc?? Please advise? Cheers, Dave.
  13. Sounds like bad connection/faulty sensor on the new sensors you put on. Alternatively, it could be pure coincidence that the rears have gone too?? You say you have checked, but both pads per corner?? Try puttin the old sensors back on too without fitting to pads and see if the light goes off, then theres your answer.
  14. Good point with the alternator, forgot about that! I will try and check my voltage over the long weekend we have here this week (bank holiday monday) and feed back into you next week. It could be a device, the car 'warms up' yes, but the longer you run a high load, the more the voltage in the battery will fall. So it will have the apprearance of the 'warming up' causing the problem. But however, i do suspect it is mor a bad 'connection' To answer your other question above, YES, poor/broken cable, will cause this issue, i mentioned this before. Good suggestion there above, run a new cable from alternator output to battery. No need to be flash, outside of car is fine, just make sure the cable is lareg enough (cross sectional area) and you arent shorting anything. That should prove your +ve connection or not??
  15. Get you manual out, and look in the fuse description section. Just use your common sense from what you know comes 'alive' when the engine is running. Pull each fuse in turn (TURN IGNITION OFF AND KEY OUT EACH TIME YOU PULL A FUSE, AND RESTART ENGINE). You need to run your engine a little while after each one to see if the voltage starts to recover. Follow me here: If you had a device that was pulling too much current when the engine was on, the battery voltage would gradually fall as the alternator would not be putting out enough current (at tick over) to 'replace' the energy being used. If you REV the engine, the potential output (current) of the alternator goes up, so should then combat the extra current being drawn from the battery by a faulty 'device'. It needs to be held there though. Is it? Can you get someone to hold it at say 3000rpm for 5-10mins and see what happens??? When you had your alternator tested, was it just put on the tester, thumbs up then off?? Or was it on for a while (soak test) the same kind of time it takes for you to see an issue?? If not it could be that the alternator is 'breaking down' when it starts to get warm etc?? I just hope for you in the end its not a bad engine harness?
  16. Before you remove the dash, try everything else first! Have you, or can you, inspect the total routing of the 'charging' wire from alternator to battery?? You are looking for, loose, dirty, corroded, broken, worn connections/wires. Also, remove, clean and refit grounds too. When i referred to the fuse box, it was to pull each fuse in turn for 'devices' that 'run' when the engine is running. The theory is that if you have an abnormally high loading 'device' (drawing too much current) then you will see the voltage drop (at battery) due to the fact the alternator cannot keep up with the demand at tick over. If you locate the 'device' that is causing the issue, the voltage should return to normal. What happens when you rev the engine?? Does the voltage recover?? This could be the key to establish if it is a device or not? When i was on about the resistor and drawing current through it, it was only to explain to you that if you had resistance in the wires, you will see the same voltage at both ends until the engine is running an the alternator is trying to charge. You have to pass current to obtain a Vdrop. Hence, my suggestion of checking wires with a resistance meter. According to my Porsche contact, he says if all is well, you should see similar voltage at battery to what is at alternator.
  17. Question?? When you check the voltage at battery, i know it is without engine running, but is it with ignition on??? If not try it then, it will drop as things 'power up' but not too much. As i said before also measure current at "standby" (car sat and instruments off etc etc), then with car 'alive' (instruments lit etc) then with ignition on. There must be spec's (limits) for these stages of 'power up' If you have a large current draw with ignition ON, then it is a 'device' or switch that has a 'short' and not wiring from alternator to battery. Think there has even been problems with ignition key/switch in regard to this before??? Keep an open mind buddy, at the moment you dont have an answer and if you convince yourself it is in one direction, you may miss or never find the problem. Entertain all posibilities, tackle them each in turn to eliminate and i'm sure you'll get there. Good look.
  18. "It can't be normal to have the voltage at the battery drop that low to the point it is not charging... " Ageed. "There is no loss with the car off, so I don't think measuring resistance will not work to detect the issue, which is why I am doing the voltage drop tests." No, because if there is no current flow (minimal anyway), you have NO voltage drop. If you put a resistor in line with your positive on your battery and measure the voltage after it, it will measure the battery voltage. If you then try and draw current through it, there will be a drop. Ohms law, it is all propertional. As i said previously, the voltage at the gauge does come dowm after a while after startup, but should not fall below 13V. If you are seeing considerably less at the battery and it is falling alot more agressively, this is because potentially a bad 'connection' is heating up and its resistance is increasing. There is another thought that you may have a bad 'device' that is only 'running' when the engine/alternator is. This too could cause you issue??? Check one of those link out i posted before. Basically, check you fuses out, and pull each one in turn to isolate potential issue. If voltage then OK, then it is to do with that.
  19. I totally appreciate that and this is your problem. Maybe you can find a very accurate with high resolution resistance meter. You can then have your vehicles engine off (DISCONNECT the BATTERY though!!!) and check the resistance from the alternator to the next connection point etc etc. If you see a high(er) resistance at that 'section' there lies the problem. This is a very dificult problem to find. Have you double checked all GROUND connections (including alternator to chassis) and main positive connections that you can get too??? If you can follow the main wire back from the alterntor as much as poss and 'wiggle' it and unplug/plug any connections you come across, you may find it?? Incidentally, my contact at Porsche said the voltage from the alternator (meter in vehicle) when up to temp/voltage should be around 13-13.5V. At the battery very similar apparently, depending on state of charge.
  20. Have a look at these: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=alternator http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p;hl=alternator Failing that, go on the Carrera forum and do a search using "alternator" as the topic. Have a good look through, you may see somthing that gives you a clue...........
  21. I would NOT recommend taking the dash apart no, it will never go back right and will probably rattle there after! Plus you may break something? You will get a larger Vdrop when connections/wires get warm, the resistance of them go up with temperature usually, unless it has a negative temperature coefficient, which copper etc doesnt. You will also see more Vdrop when the fans run as you are then pulling more current and as its directly proportional, thats what happens. I believe you DO have a bad wire or connection between alternator and battery. When the engine isnt running, you have hardly any current transfer (consumption) and therfore minimal Vdrop, so you will see same voltage at both ends when engine off. Is there any way you can find out what and where the connectors are for the main power lead from alternator to battery?? My volt meter in car will read 14V at startup and drop to 13-13.5V when warm or ran for a long time. It will still maintain this with alternator fully loaded. Think this is the alternator output NOT the voltage at the battery, so dont actually know what the voltage at the terms would be. It may be the same as yours? If i get chance i will check the weekend.
  22. Hmmmm, yes. Lets go through it: Battery tested ok (check) and alternator tested ok (check). So, the main componets here are fine. Therefore you are loosing it through either volt drops or a short of somekind, but you say the car sits there OK for weeks so possibly a 'resistive short' is out unless its only when the alternator is running?? Therefore, as someone said it is most likely to be 'connections' rather than wiring (although it can be wiring, especially if the wire has been worn down (cross sectional area) due to rubbing etc). If you know the routing of the main wire from the alternator to battery, then you take each 'section' in turn (by that i mean from alternator to first connector, from first connector to next and so on) and check the voltage at each point. Use a common ground and probe the positive to see how the voltage differs from the last. If you find a large difference compared to the last 'section' it is that section that is the issue. It is then time to replace/repair the issue. That is what i have done with electrical/electronic test equipment that use high currents when they arent achieving the spec due to lareg Vdrops. Please be CAREFUL though when the engine is running, we dont want any 'issues'. Failing all that, its time for a Porsche electrical guy........... Good luck my friend.
  23. Seen this on mine and others (Boxster and 996). When you role the window down water drips/runs onto the inner rubber somtimes from the outer and when you role it back up, the window is wet. Happens alot. Watch what happens next time. Bit of a design flaw i think, as the outer seal is 'higher' than the inner and this also holds dirt (which is visible from the inside of car when the windows are up). This shows that water/cr*p gets behind that then gravity takes it course when the window is down which will allow it to 'drip' on the other (inner) rubber.
  24. Hi! They loaded it up on a machine. As for parasitic drain, even if the car is not driven for a week or sometimes more, it will still start just fine. Not sure of if that means anything. How do you connect it in series in this case, to check? You first need a current meter or DMM (digital multimeter). Plug the positive lead into the "current" input (this is importnat!). Select the current (DC) setting. You then need to remove the +ve lead to you battery. Connect the DMM +ve input to the +ve battery terminal and the negative DMM lead to the cable you have just removed from the battery. This then puts the DMM "in series" with your current path. YOU MUST insulate exposed terminals else you will have great fun and sparks. Please take care. You ofcourse need to run the DMM leads outside the vehilce, shut all doors and windoes to get the indication of 'standby' drain. The car should shut down i believe to about 40mA according to Loren (i believe it was) when it goes to standby. Not sure if this was with alarm on or off though. It takes a few hours to achieve this, so be patient. Going back to the 'charging issue'. If your alternator is fine and been tested, your battery is fine and been tested, it is clear that the battery is not being charged sufficiently. Now, this could do with poor connections causing you a Vdrop hence not charging, or you arent running you car long enough to charge it up. It is recommended you charge your battery a few times a year to keep it in top form anyway, especially if the car is not being used. What is the voltage on you instrument cluster reading? Mine starts off at 14V (ish) then drops to 13.2-13.5V after a while. This is normal.
  25. When you took it to the alternator place, did they 'load' it up?? That is try and draw current from it?? Its no good just checking the voltage output when there's no load, those alternators should supply over a hundred amps at the correct voltage. Suppose they know what they are doing? You will get a Vdrop between alt and battery as you have resistance in the copper which the more current you draw, the more Vdrop you have. However, something may not be right. Think i've heard on here you can have a bad headlight switch or ignition switch that drains you battery?? Check if you have too high parasitic drain. Take of positive lead and check 'standby' current with a DMM. Connect it right (in series) else you'll get a nice spark! This should tell you if you have a short/drain somewhere. It maybe that you arent doing enough long trips and it has been discussed on here alot. I plug mine into a battery maintainer every weekend if not using it to keep it fully toppped up.
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