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About ehesler

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2000 996, 1999 boxster, 1966 912
  1. thanks guys. i just checked both the fuel and oil caps. they were on very tight so i don't think that was the issue. i did use some 87 octane fuel recently. could that be the cause of the CEL? again, what is the process i should follow to get an understanding of cause of the CEL. a OBD readout from autozone....for free? toolpants: i need a bit more detail. which fuse should i be looking for? (the fuse bank is located to the left of the drivers foot, in the black panel, right?) please pardon the igonrance, i have not needed to look in there yet! thanks again for your help. ehesler
  2. hi all: yesterday i identifed 2 problems in my 2000 996. the car is manual shift without any aftermarket modifications. problem #1: the 'check engine light" came on and i would like to attempt to self-diagnose the problem. i have read here (on the board) that i can go to autozone and get a "free" readout of the obd codes. is that true...here in chicago? so far, i have opened the rear deck looked for anything out of place. the only thing i noticed was that the coolant was low (below the mon line). to resolve this problem, i added more coolant up to the max line. i restarted the car and the light was still on. perhaps it was not a coolant issue afterall? does the "cel" go off automatically after a problem has been diagnosed? problem #2: last night driving home from a business dinner i noticed that the horn is not working. i don't use the horn often, so it may have been out for some time. how do i go about diagnosing/fixing a nonfunctioning horn? please advise. thank you in advance. ehesler ehesler@yahoo.com
  3. hello all. my 2000 996 leaked washer fluid when i went to refill it one evening. the fix is to remove the left front wheel and plastic wheel well housing (only the 3-4 right screws. the whole housing does NOT have to come off) and reconect the pump tube to its connector. (sorry, i have no pictures) if you are facing the wheel well, the connection for the tube is located at the very upper right of the wheel well behind the plastic housing. it'a a little nub that the tube slips over. i HIGHLY recommend champing it down with a tiewrap (not an endorsement, but something like this: http://tiewraps.com/tiewrappage.html) to avert another problem. also, while the wheel and housing off take time to remove any extra debris that may have collected, spot check the brake and clean an excess brake dust off the inner wheel. the project takes about 45 mins to and hour. tools: tire change kit, torx driver and tiewraps
  4. i took my 2000 996 with 28,000 miles on it into the dealer for a partial 30k service and they repaired 2 leaks: RMS and IMS. the warranty on the car expires next week. i do most of my own service per loren's instructions and noticed some oil on the block when i changed the oil. the car, however, has never dripped. i never noticed a drop on oil on the ground. the leak appears to have been contained to the internals. i have read the threads here regarding the rms/ims issue and it appears that it is terminal. obviously, it is fixed for now. what about the future? a few questions: 1. since the car will be out of warranty by the end of next week, should i be looking sell/trade the car due to the fact that the RMS/IMS may leak again out of warranty? my alternative is to keep the car until the balloon payment is due in 2/2007 and then turn it in. my risk is keeping a known leaker for over 2.5 years!!! an extended warranty is not an option. as i understand, rms/ims leaks are not covered due to the problem being manufacturing related. also, it is a pre-existing condition and deals with a rubber part, again not covered in extended warranties. 2. how long does the re-seal hold? (what are your experiences?) 3. if the leak materializes again, can i simply keep adding oil to keep the level up? 4. how have others addressed their out-of-warranty rms/ims issues? please help. thanks.
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