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Guys, I have just purchased a Bose rear subwoofer system and want to install it into my 98 boxster, I have done a search but cant find anything specific to my enquiry the specification in the car at the present time is as follows Becker Traffic Pro headunit Becker Siverstone CD changer Front and door speakers only 2 channel amplifier In addition to the Bose system i have purchased a 4 channel amplifier, my questions are as follows: 1. Assuming the 4 channel amplifier is a straight exchange for my old 2 channel amplifier does the input lead from the head unit just connect in or does it need modification 2, Is the output lead from the 4 channel amplifier to the speakers different from the output to the existing 2 channel amplifier, I'm hoping it is so I can then get a wire made up to link the amplifier to the Bose system, I hope that makes sense to all. Any help as usual is appreciated
Dear All, After my problems with battery drain from the Becker Traffic Pro I had installed in my 986, I have been investiagting other options. I have the opportunity to purchase a VW double din sized unit, I have asked the seller for a wiring diagram out of the manual but he ahs lost it so he can't help. The picturs of the back of the unit are attached, my question is, I think the standard 986 connector fits in the bottom connector plug, the 2 round ones at the top of the unit are for the antenna and aerial I think but what is the other rectangular connector top left of picture. Obviously I dont want to purchase unless Im certain it will work. Thanks as usual.
It's a Sat Nav atenna, just like one that i had in my car, in reply to TP's question about Tracker, it's not mandatory, some insurances want it others dont. My experience was that Norwich Union (biggest insurer in UK) wanted it along with a £650 excess, whilst Ford Insurance didn't and only put an excess of £250 on my car.
Dear All, I purchased a Becker Silverstone CD Changer from Ebay, it had never been installedbefore or used, I have connected ti to my CDR21 and it powers up fine but I can't remove the CD Magazine, any tips please, I dont have the user booklet so don't know whether there is some sort of special sequence to do things in. thanks Nik
Try a smoke test, its possible you have a vacum leak. smoke test is one of the best ways of locating leaks. I;'m no expert but it could be the same problem i had with my car, mine wasn't quite as bad as yours but the symtoms were similar, try this thread http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12091 Hope it helps nik
had a spare set of calipers Chris so used those, funnily enough Im doing a set in silver at the moment so might well swap when they are done. I sprayed mine using plasticote enamel 4 coats then 2 coats of clear, the decals matched perfectly with the old Porsche lettering so I guess they are right.
I always jack the car up to clean the wheels, I wax the inside at least twice a year and the jack helps me keep them clean inside and out, it's a habit of mine to turn the wheels after cleaning and finally the rear bolts are female as i needed spacers to make the wheels fit. Regards Nik
They look great and certainly suit the cars wheels, the blue sky looks nice as well, come to the UK and put up with gray skies, all the public transport grinding to a halt aas soon as we get one flake of snow.
YEP i'LL POST SOME MORE PICS TOMORROW WHEN THE CAR IS CLEAN, THE WEATHER IN THE UK IS HORRIBLE TODAY, I TOO LOVE THE CLASSICS - WHAT YOU CAN'T SEE TOO WELL IN THE PICS IS THAT MINE ARE THE BLACK CHROME SMOKED TYPE WHICH REALLY SUIT THE ZENITH BLUE PAINTWORK. I THINK THE CALIPERS LOOK PRETTY GOOD, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN ALL TOO EASY TO GO FOR BLACK, RED OR YELLOW. I AM WORKING ON ANOTHER SET AT THE MOMENT IN SILVER. REGARDS NIK
Guys, Just to finish off on what colour my calipers should be painted, well I listened to all your comments (many thanks) I'll let you check out the pictures to decide if I made the right choice. Regards as always Nik
Just to close this thread, received the used CDR22 system today, plugged it in, and guess what, no more battery drain! I still don't understand why my Traffic Pro produced such a drain to start with, a faulty unit - maybe but a brand new Blaupunkt rome Sat Nav that I plugged in produced exactly the same drain - it's weird but hey who cares it's finally fixed Nik
Nightghost, Sorry to hear about your problems, check out this thread from a short while ago, none of it is good news I'm afraid but it may help you in discussions with you dealer. Regards Nik http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11250
Just to add to Toolpants comment regarding the problem of keeping the same mileage on a new or replacement cluster. I have just changed my stock black cluster to a silver dial version and had 2 problems. 1. The mileage on the new cluster was significantly different 2. My car has the onboard computer option and a clock, the new cluster didn't show the clock or the computer. It wasn't a big deal, I split both clusters and the dials then just lift out from the circuit board, swapped new dials onto old circuit board and everything now works, computer and clock. hope this helps Nik
Thats acctually a myth... Running too rich or lean will not hurt O2 sensors, contrary to popular belief. I know a lot of people will try and argue me about this, but please call bosch and have them tell you if you need to. Running lean can hurt its time overall beause of extra heat, but generally most O2 sensors are far enough downstream they don't have a problem like this... O2 sensors read Oxygen only, they don't read fuel or fuel particles, thats why they are called O2 sensors. So as the amount of oxygen changes in the system the sensors read that level and report it back to the ECU. They will survive an enviroment of 0-1600 deg with a long life time. A rich car runs cooler, so it's not hard on the O2 sensor, they don't read fuel, only the particles of air so running rich means there is more unburnt air in the exhaust (along with unburnt fuel) so the O2 sensor will read that info back. Running lean means your Air/Fuel ratio is say 14.7:1 or higher (16:1 lets say) which is the ratio entering the cylinder. If you go rich its the other way around say 10:1. Either way there is sitll combustion happening and the amount of air entering or not entering the exhaust will change and the O2 sensors will read it as per normal. The engine pretty well can't get that far out of the parameters and still run partially normally long enough to really do damage to the sensor. Normally aspirated cars dont run hot enough (not like turbo) to really do any damage to O2 sensors. My talon has a huge turbo on it and originally had an O2 sensor right behind the turbo in the downpipe. I moved it down the pipe about 10" so it was farther away. I would notice it get lazy when I was running race gas and lots of boost into the 400whp area because the exhaust temps were nearing 1600 deg and the sensor was sooo close to the head. Even that tho didn't kill the sensor, and it ran really rich compared to a N/A car and had way more heat from the exhaust. See where I'm going with this? A 200hp car N/A with the sensor at least 10" away from the head can pretty well do whatever it wants and it's not gonna hurt the sensors.. OK, so here is where I'll stop an wait for some internet expert to jump in and tell me they have seen it 1000 times and I don't know what I'm talking about... <_< Interesting point made by Jim, what was surprising was that on the first test drive when the car was running rubbish, sluggish, cutting out early etc the diagnostics reported no faults. Running badly certainly did affect the MAF (i think) but a quick clean sorted it out, my car runs so much better and has the Boxster howl again. Slightly off topic (sorry Loren, won't do it again) I drove back the 80 miles or so from the garage at a steady 60, and managed to get 44.6 mpg, I'm now obsessed with trying to get it over 45, I need to get a life I think.!