panameras

Nop! Still have that annoying problem but for now, my Boxster is winterised. I will start to think about that next April but will look to that topic often in case yourself or somebody else find the solution...

Thierry

My hesitation problem came back a few weeks ago, I cleaned the MAF again, it went away for a while until last week. The car now wouldn't rev at all when cold. And after it warmed up the engine would then stall randomly.:cursing:

Here is the installation steps in case anyone needs it for future reference...

Credit to MAcarbon

1. Pop off the coat hook on the B pillar.

2. Pop off the part that you use to raise or lower the height of the mounting of the seat belt on the B pillar.

3. Remove the bolt holding the seat belt anchor to the B pillar.

4. Remove the screw (located under the coat hook)that holds the cover of the B pillar in place.

5. Lift the cover up and out.

6. Pop seat belt surround off and install new one.

7. Reverse steps to put everything back. Bolt holding the seat belt anchor in the B pillar should be torqued to 37 ft.lb.

Total time - under 15 minutes per side.

Thanks,

Lane

MAcarbon

Anyone has done this in a 997.2?

Do you see the metal clip? that has to slide up (and it fits very tight) while at the same time releasing the tab.

The old 996/997.1 ones had a single screw also but I don't see on these. If by chance their is a screw - just be careful not to drop it into body cavity (I wonder how I know that!).

Sorry, haven't really had the time to do this the last couple of days. But I was looking at it just then, trie to pry it upwards with those special plastic interior removal tools but it seemed to be very tight fitting and I didn't want to break anything.:help: No I couldn't see the metal clip either.

Exact model and year of your car please...

Its a 2010 Carrera 4, thanks.

I'm replacing mine with painted pieces, there are two tabs which I don't want to break, so I thought I should ask here if anyone has replaced those before and how? Appreciate any help.:thankyou:

Don't just clean the MAF - clean the throttle body too.

If there is an accumulation of oil in the throttle body then you may have AOS leak starting.

OK thanks. I will try that, I didn't get to clean it last time.

:thankyou:

Did you do a search here?

I think not or you have gotten loads of information - as these have been covered many many times.

Solve your fault code problems one at a time - you could have more than one problem.

How do you search/find older threads on here? Sorry I haven't been on this forum for a long time, but my throttle hesitation is happening again and I'm trying to find one of my older threads which had some valuable info I might need.

Help - right next to where you sign in at the top right - will bring you to: Help Topic: Searching

http://www.renntech....lp&do=01&HID=24

I knew that, that's how I found this thread in the first place.:rolleyes: I meant how do I find my own old threads? When I click on my profile it only showed 3 of my threads, I'm pretty sure I had many more.

Thanks

Other detail I can add, it looks like the hesitation doesn't happen when engine is cold, only when hot... I did order a OBDII cable to plug via USB to my laptop and wait for that to see what temperature MAF see and also be able to erase the fault when i will make a try after disconnected the MAF...

exactly like mine. so what was the final diagnosis? did you ever fixed the problem?

Did you do a search here?

I think not or you have gotten loads of information - as these have been covered many many times.

Solve your fault code problems one at a time - you could have more than one problem.

How do you search/find older threads on here? Sorry I haven't been on this forum for a long time, but my throttle hesitation is happening again and I'm trying to find one of my older threads which had some valuable info I might need.

My 2000 S has just started having this problem, again! It also happened early last year which went away after I cleaned the MAF. Its now happening again and I'm considering replacing the MAF this time. Hopefully its not due to some other issues...

All you need is the aircon panel surround trim, part number 996.552.339.00.01C. The cable in the loom is plenty long enough. When you unscrew the panel from the top position there are two plastic brackets which come out. Discard them, as they aren't needed to fit the panel to the bottom slot.

Thank you Sir!

Hi everyone, I'm planning to upgrade to a pioneer double navigation unit, http://www.pioneer.com.au/en/Products/Navigation/In%20Dash%20Navigation/AVIC-F20BT.aspx, where can I get parts to relocate the climate control unit to the lower centre dash?

Appreciate your help.

The caps on eBay look like they are black and white Porsche crests -- your picture shows your caps are color crests. If you replace one you'll have three color and one black and white. May not be the best look.

Actually its a pic off the internet, my center caps do have silver crests. Thanks for replying anyway. Cheers.

The PN on the back is not a Porsche PN, most likely the manufacturer's PN. Cayenne parts start with 955. However, looking at the parts I would say they would fit, most likely the last digit is for the cap finish which by the pictures on ebay appear to be different from yours. Hope this helps. GW B)

I think you're right about the PN. I wasn't sure because the seller stated it'd fit 18" and 19" Cayenne wheels but didn't mention 20s. Then again. I don't think Porsche would make a different size center caps just for the 20s. Thanks for the help.

I have got the sport design 20" wheels on my 2004 Cayenne turbo and I need to replace one of the center caps. Found one on ebay that says "7L5.601.149.C" on the back. However on the back of my center caps its "7L5.601.149.G". Will the "7L5.601.149.C" fit my wheel?

ebay cap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Cay...sQ5fAccessories

my wheel

Appreciate any help.

J

You'll want PASM for the track. The car will corner better and faster with that option than without. The car will be more tossable on the street, too.

Yes I'm aware of the stiffer setting of PASM would be great for track work. But like I said I'd only track the car once or twice a year (if any), so I'm not sure if that justifies paying extra for the PASM?

What about ride quality? Some of the roads I use to travel to work are pretty bad. Which is better, stock suspension or PASM "normal" mode?

I can't answer your question but that is a sweet C4 :D

Its actually a C2, just trying to show the stock ride height of a non PASM Carrera over here. But thanks for looking. :D

I'm trying to spec up an 2010 C4, PDK with sport chrono. Blue tooth, Nav and Bose are standard on Australian spec 911s.

What I'm not sure is whether PASM and Multi-Function Steering Wheel are necessary options?

It'll be my daily driver and I don't plan to track the car that often, maybe once or twice a year max.

The standad ride height of an AUS spec non-PASM 911 is not that bad (I read somewhere US 911s are higher?). Here is a pic,

As for the M/F steering wheel, I'm not if its that desirable since the PCM unit is already located quite close?

Thanks for any advice.

A few weeks ago I commented here there seems (to me, at least) to be an unscientific correlation between cleaning/replacing MAF and rough idle afterwards. If you do clean the throttle body and that solves the problem, please let us know

I think you should only need to unplug the battery to reset the ECU if you swap in a new MAF, but it couldn't hurt anything to try it anyway

Strangely enough, this morning when I started the car the idle has fixed itself! :thumbup: It ran above 1k rpm for 10 to 15 seconds or so (not sure what it was but happens all the time when cold start. Fuel pump?) then settled down to just below the 800 rpm mark and stayed there. What a pleasant surprise! I was prepared to spend the night doing the throttle body cleaning after work.

I think the "unscientific correlation between cleaning/replacing MAF and rough idle afterwards" might have something to do with an un-dry MAF. The rough idle happened right after the MAF cleaning and was still happening two hours later when I took the car for a drive. Although I did let the MAF dry for an hour in the air before reinstalling, it may have not been completely dry. Now after spending more than 24 hours sitting in the garage, the rough idle has gone away.

Then again, it could be just the ECU needed time to adjust to the "new" cleaner MAF. Whatever the cause I'm just happy that its solved. :cheers:

Bump

Thanks. That could be it, but if the MAF wasn't dry yesterday after I cleaned it, it surely should be dry now. How long did you leave the battery disconnect in order to reset the ECU?

Thanks I've already read the throttle body DIY. But what I don't understand is why would I get rough idle now after cleaning the MAF as it was fine before when the car was having hesitation?

Do I need to reset the ECU (unplug battery?) at all after cleaned the MAF? There was no CEL by the way.

Boxster S MY00, 48k Mi. Had hesitation below 2000rpm on all gears, cleaned MAF following mikefocke's page, hesitation seem to have gone away but car now idles funny. Keeps dipping from 900rpm (or whatever the standard idle should be) to around 500rpm, even down to 200rpm occasionally. And sometimes it also holds at 900rpm for up to 5 seconds at a time.

Car had a similar rough idle problem less than 10k Mi ago, the stealership replaced the 2 cam tensioners and cost me a forture. So I don't think it would be the cam tensioners again this time, but the symptoms are alarmingly similar.

Appreciate any help.

Don't know the life expectancy of a MAF, but Sunset just gave me a price of 271.45 for my 04 986S

Ok thanks. :)