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panameras

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Posts posted by panameras

  1. Hey Guys,

    Im thinking of upgrading my side intake vents to 2003 series II, as below

    98650456103.jpg

    98650456103A.GIF

    on my 2000 Boxster, the vents are fixed to the car by tabs (on the louvres) which insert into three metal slots plus one screw. The the louvres on the 2003 vents are fixed it seems, so how are they actually attaching to the car?

    Thanks

  2. Don't listen to them. I think it looks great.

    Now get a paintbrush out, dip it in some car wash soap and get cleaning. Can't show off a new strut bar and have people

    see dirt.

    When did you get the car? What year is it? What else have you done?

    Yeah it definitely needs a good clean.

    Got the car nearly a year ago but never checked under the hood. Apparently the previous owner never had a proper garage for the car by looks of things underneath.

    Its a 2000 model. Hasn't done much, yet. Clear lights kit, de-snorkled, filter foam removed.

    Mods on the card are: headers, modify muffler, maybe Giac flash, paint wheels and interior bits.

  3. The strut brace.......Why?????????? The chasis will already outperform your driving abilities unless you are a proffessional driver.

    Well, I could say: for improved chassis rigidity. but someone would always argue how ineffective it is that you won't even feel the difference, then it will turn into another useless silly debate about why having a strut brace.

    So in this case I would say: no particular reason but because I like the look of it.

  4. I set my tires as stated in this PCA Tech article; I agree the car feels much better with the higher pressures (my car is an'02 S with 8/10x18's running 225s and 265s currently). Keep in mind, factory recommended pressures will induce understeer to keep drivers safe from themselves. These are also street pressures, as I don't even recommend running "street" tires on a track; they were not built for the loads or slip angles. If you continue to track your car, purchase an R rated DOT rubber like a Pilot Sport Cup. You can play with pressures all you want to suit your driving style and ability. I've been tracking 911s for many years, but do not track my Boxster (though I have driven numerous cars as an instructor for the Chicago Region).

    http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...B-14C71E506D95}

    Copied from the PCA Tech Website...

    JM

    I dont really track my car that much, so my question is to find the optimum tyre pressure for maximum grip and handling of street tyres on the road.

    I agree that factory recommended pressures will induce understeer. As a mid engine RWD boxster tends to oversteer more than an AWD or a FWD car, therefore lower recommended pressure at the front (29psi) for more grip and higher pressure at the rear (36psi) for less grip which would result in understeer.

    All for safety reasons then?

    or is the factory recommended tyre pressure there for tyre conservation?

    because higher tyre pressure will wear the tyre evenly where as lower pressure will give you more grip but reduce tyre lifespan.

    The last car I had was a front engine rear wheel drive and I found it handles best will 32psi front and 30psi rear. but this setting could be ineffective on a boxster since the weight balance is different.

  5. Hi Guys, just want to show you the carbon brace I've just fitted to my 986.

    post-15526-1180164161_thumb.jpg

    Two questions while we are at it.

    What is this thing pointed by the red arrow? Speaker Amplifier?

    What is the best way to remove the plastic bit within the yellow highlight?

    I need to access underneath to clean all the leaves and craps.

    Thanks

  6. I have heard a lot of different opinions on this topic.

    Tyres I have are 235/40/18 front and 265/35/18 rear.

    My hand book says: 29psi front and 36psi rear.

    Some say low profile tyres need higher psi. less sidewall requires higher pressure.

    so standard 16's are prob ok with 32-34psi. but 18/35's or 19/30's need about 38-40psi.

    My driver training instructor recommends 30psi all around cold, doesn't matter what size tyre or profile.

    What is the real story for tyre pressure? Do different size tyres require different pressures? ie; 235/40/18 vs 265/35/18 vs 235/45/17 vs 265/40/17??

    What about drivetrain layout? AWD require different tyre pressure to RWD? and FWD? and engine layout? In the case of 986, midship engine requires higher rear tyre pressure?

    Thanks

  7. Sometimes there are country specific options - and we don't have them all.

    Perhaps another Australia owner has a copy of the (Australia) MY03 options guide.

    Here is what I could find...

    X7F -

    B0R -

    QG0 -

    0GU - emission compliance EU 2

    0Y2 - tropical climate zone

    E0A - most likely an engine rating

    0JZ - most likely a weight class for the front axle

    0YZ -

    Thanks for the effort.

    Found two possible explainations for B0R: VEHICLE GM PROD WEEK 34

    or Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Australia.

    Most likely the later?

    Also, do you have any idea regarding the two 0BBs? One is anti roll bar, what's the other?

  8. A question for Cayenne TT owners, any of you tried or are running Giac or Revo software? What are your thoughts on its performance difference? And any other software that you would consider for the Cayenne Turbo? I am mainly interested on either Giac or Revo because they are readily available in Australia and are lot cheaper than DMS or Gemballa, at least in Australia they are.

    Thanks in advance.

  9. Thanks for the feedback.

    My car is an S as you can read from above. i will be spending most money on improving the handling side of the car. but i do want a little more go and sound. from what i have gathered so far is that aftermarket headers will yield most gain (second to ecu flash) in comparison to cat bypass and muffler which do not give you any advantage other than soundl. thats why im thinking just get headers and evo intake for performance and sound. concerntrate the rest on suspension and brakes.

    A waste of $ IMHO

    What are you trying to accomplish and how many mods are you willing to spend for to get there?

    You want power: increase air intake efficiency, optimize air/fuel mixture (chip), improve exhaust scavenging (headers+cats+mufflers). Doing only one is generally a waste of $. Doing them all gets you somewhere but costs big $$$$. The $ per HP gained is outta sight.

    Buy an S instead may be the more effective answer. Or buy a 2000 base with a blown engine and drop in a 3.4 from a 996 in a junkyard.

    My opinion

  10. Anyone here had experience or are using Schnell headers on their Boxster/911? Basicly this is the first modification I'm having on my 99 Boxster S, just want to find out if its a worthwhile upgrade? These headers are priced fairly reasonable. Mandrel bent stainless steel and TIG welds all good. But do they really give you an edge over the stock manifold on the Boxster?

    While we are at it, can anyone confirm that cat bypass pipes or an aftermarket muffler will not make much of a difference in hp on a Boxster while a set of aftermarket headers yield good power gain?

    Thanks in advance.

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