zebswiss

Thanks for the link... I had not seen this one.

I can tell they tried... but unfortunately they didn't quite "get it".

It doesn't look good. Have a great day. Zeb

Yeah, I love my convertible too and really don't mind not having hard top...

I just see everyone drooling over Caymans just b/c Porsche designed a nicely shaped... Boxster coupe (and it is nice).

I just think it would be cool to have the looks of a Cayman and the versatility of a of a conv. for way less than half the price on these sweet older boxsters that are already a huge value for the $.

Zeb

PS I bet your 06 is nice, I'm too thrifty (cheap) to buy a newer Boxster...I picked up my 00 with 83k (miles) for $15K spent $450 bucks on: Ebay Headers($150).. LOVE THEM, K&N, 1.25" wheel spacers rear, 1" spacers front, drilled rotors, painted the roll bars to match, hand painted wheel emblems, did the muffler bypass trick (my first welding experience) turned out good but I usually keep the valves closed b/c the K&N w/ the headers sounds awful nice, and finally poly sway bar bushings to make it super flat on the corners... Anyway, I'm rambling. Have a great day.

Try Oklahomaforeign.com

phone - 800-462-2446.

Best of Luck, Zeb

Ondafly,

Sorry I haven't been on forum for a day or two... Once I removed the bolts (on both front sides) step 4... my whole sway bar swung down with bushings and brackets attached. I then just worked the brackets and bushes off.

I have a 2000 Boxster 2.7... maybe your car is a little different, or do you have rust in Ireland?

Hopefully you got them on already, if not, I'll help if I can. Zeb

Patrick,

Any luck? I am afraid your leather might be beyond help b/c when you take wet leather and dry it fast and hot it actually burns rather than just drying out... but it's worth the try.

Chuck, I've used Dr. Jackson's too and really liked it. I just don't live near a Tandy anymore....

I've actually been making my own leather conditioner that works nicely.

I use real bees wax(from a farm), melt it in a double boiler, add cocoa butter, coconut oil(mineral oil if you can't find coconut), aloe vera gel.

Mix is around 70% coconut oil, 25% bees wax, 5% the rest. It may sound oily, but the bees wax makes a cream that penetrates and leaves a nice waxy protection that can be buffed to a nice lustre and won't stain clothes. Smells great too.

Having said that, I also really like Meguire's Cream conditioner, but I won't use it on Perforated seats b/c the white residue builds up.

Have a great day all and good luck to Patrick, Please let us know how your seats come out Patrick. Zeb

Sorry you couldn't get the poly's to you cheaper, Your new Porsche bushings should make a nice difference anyway...

To answer your questions:

Grease- It looked to me like Porsche used a canvas type insert inside the bushing to reduce friction, so I'm not sure grease is necessary.

Tire removal- no, I did not remove my tires or the "end-links", just the actual bushing mounts.

Good luck, Zeb

Thanks Westscoaster,

Yes, I had seen Zeintech, and about 3 other manufacturers that produce them in Europe... I like Zeintech, nice quality etc. Too expensive and time-consuming to install... and get back to convertible...

-I don't want to remove my trunk

-I don't want it to be fully integrated

-and I don't want it to be a major project just to install or remove.

Race style, simple, ultralight, removable, pop-on, pop-off, one person change over, etc.

I researched the heck out of what's out there prior to my post, But thanks anyway!

I would love to have an ultralight, no-nonsense fiberglass or aluminum cayman-style hard top for my 986...In the USA

Here is what it would be like:

-Ultra simple (race style) with six components: fiberglass(or aluminum) shell, rubber side-window and clam shell seals, three latches, and a rear window

-No headliner

-No need to remove or alter soft top or trunk

-Easy mount and release using standard-type front latch and clips on bottom to slide under clam shell to secure rear(adjustable rubber straps?)

-Flat vertical glass or plexi rear window

-Rear "fins" that mimic the cayman's lines... sort of like a '77 corvette (so rear trunk operates as usual)

-Maybe even a slightly "chopped" roof line to give a lower, more streamlined profile (perfect cayman specs would be smarter though)

-Primed and ready to paint

Sure, there would be some seams between the "fins" and the body but the overall look would be sweet.

OR .... all of the above except that mimics the Carrera GT Targa top complete with the separate mesh rear bulges.

Somebody make my day and tell me where to buy this bare bones ultra cool idea for $200 (so the manufacturer can make $100 profit!!!)!

-Zebswiss

Thanks Loren,

Any idea How much $ and where to purchase?

Thanks, Zeb

Try this:

Go to tractor Supply, buy some Lexol leather conditioner (Brown bottle $10 or less for big bottle)

Go to Wal-Mart and buy some Cloth diapers.

Thoroughly soak the diaper with Lexol, Wipe (soak) the seat with the Lexol then drape the very wet diaper over the leather, put a plastic garbage bag over the Lexol soaked diaper and then a folded bath towel over the plastic bag to weight it down. Let it soak overnight or longer. take it off and let it "dry". Then gently buff the residue off with a nice soft cotton towel.

It may not get it back to factory condition, but it should help a lot. Let me know how it goes. -Zeb

Here is something I found on Ebay that might fit the bill... I wonder if there would be any complications with ABS?

I Searched for: Adjustible PROPORTIONING VALVE

On Sale Now...only 29.95

Ships to you Priority Mail w/tracking, only 5.95 ...FAST!!!

This is a new universal adjustible Proportioning Valve, manufactured from billet aluminum with a knurled knob for adjustment. This can mount vertically or horizontally.

This PROPORTIONING VALVE comes new in the package w/instructions.

Note: Availabe w/CHROMED FINISH for 8.00 more, Just Ask!

The purpose of a proportioning valve is to control the pressure to the rear brakes to prevent premature lock- up. It is fully adjustible for fine tuning, and can be installed with Disc or Drum brakes, on street rods, race cars, classic cars & trucks, 2WD & 4WD.

(NOTE..... If you have a 67-75 Bronco, I offer a complete Proportioning Valve Kit, w/hoses & mounting bracket, in my ebay Store).

You install this valve on the brake line that goes to the rear brakes. It connects to standard 3/16" brake lines and it has a knurled knob with fine threads which allows you to be extremely precise in your adjustments.

Pressure Range is 100-1000 psi. It is 4" long and 1-5/8" wide.

This Proportioning Valve will work on most any type of brake conversion, front disc, 4 wheel disc & drum brake cars or trucks. It cost less than a factory valve and is easy to install.

________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________

Anyone have any experience with anything similar to this? Thanks again! Zeb

Thanks for the input RFM. Under normal driving conditions your right, I can't feel the rear brakes working and the car stops fine...

Under hard braking, the fronts lock up, on and off (the ABS is working fine). The rears never lock or even "grab". The truth is, I think the car is working fine(the rear rotors show that they are indeed working) but I would prefer more stopping power from the rear.

From my 928S4 days, I remember that there was a way to adjust the proportion... because people had the same complaint about 928's especially for track use. I can't remember how they did it...I'll do some searching.

My question is: Is it possible to increase the rear braking proportion on a Boxster, and if so how?

If someone can answer this question, it will greatly benefit all of us because I've owned 3 Boxster's so far, and they've all suffered from the same thing... and with those big fat rear tires doing much more of the braking, brake efficiency and stopping power would be incredible (like my A6).

Thanks again. Zebswiss

Does anyone know how to get my rear brakes to do more of the work? (I would love 55% front, 45% rear)

It seems my front brakes are doing all the work.

Just before my ABS kicks in, my fronts lock up and I'm just not feeling any rear stopping power.

I've searched without luck to find any info on adjusting the front to rear proportioning.

All pads and rotor are in good working.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Zebswiss

2000 986 2.7 84k

Thanks Zeb - I'm guessing the part you are referring to is the "bush part" in this pic ? This particular part on my boxster has started squeeking recently, a quick spray of lubricat and the noise goes away - must pick up a replacement !

You got it my friend. Just remember, use the new bush and new bracket for the front, and the for the rear use the poly bush with the stock Porsche bracket. Grease 'em good! (I used Lucas green axle grease). Please let me know how you like the handling when you're done!

Zeb

P.S. nice diagram

Good post - excuse my ignorance though - would this be the same part as the Front Anti roll bar bushing ?

Well yes, but there are technically two types of anti roll bar bushings- "end link" and "frame mount". The ones I'm referring to are the frame mount.

The end links on a Porsche (and most European cars) are not the conventional 4-"doughnut" bushings end links (that Energy suspension sells) but are bolted to the link then bolted to the control arm... You can spend a lot trying to replace those with poly... and the don't really need any stiffening, they usually last a long time... you'll know if they are worn if they feel loose. I would expect 150k miles or track days every weekend to wear those out.

Have a great day.

Zebswiss

Here's how I fixed this after trying to get to the bolts just behind the steering wheel(on the column) with no success...

I decided to try the reverse of how I made it loose in the first place...

I unlocked the steering adjustment and pushed the steering wheel hard toward the dash, then gently and slowly pulled it out to where I wanted it, locked the lever and bingo fixed, tight as ever with no freeplay.

I guess I caused the assembly to slide and become a little loose.

Hope this get's someone else out of a jam without trying to pull your dash apart...

still need help, Thanks.

Hi

I've been searching the forum but hav'nt found a solution for my problem.

The car is a 98' Boxster TipTronic.

Problem: I turn the key, lights come on, turn more and..nothing.

Solution: I wriggle the gearlever back and forth into Neutral - turn off the ignition, and on again and the engine starts just fine.

Ignition switch seems fine, the power comes on just fine.

The battery is'nt very old.

My impression is that some switch in the gearlever is faulty and needs to be moved quickly before it activates(or deactivates).

Does anyone have knowledge of such a switch or other suggestions?

I guess the battery could be faulty...I have'nt tried another one. But as stated, the car starts up just fine, when it finally decides to.

Thanks in advance!!

Automatics have a neutral and park safety switch... yours must be a little loos or out of adjustment.

If you can, pop the leather shift boot up (use a flat-head screwdriver cover the end with a towel) and gently pry up the back.

I never took my old tiptronic apart but there should be a little button that is depressed when it is in park or neutral. I would bet the button is a little loose in Park or the connection is loose. Try starting it in neutral too. Good luck, hope this helps. Zebswiss :D

2000 Boxster 2.7 82k 5 speed

My Telescoping steering wheel was difficult to push in or pull out when I bought it... a little harder than my other two previous Boxsters (97 and 98)

Today I pulled out (fairly hard) and it hit the stop hard (toward me) and became loose.

The lever still locks the steering wheel in place but there is movement up and down and side to side (like an old loose corvette...)

The steering wheel telescopes easy now too.

Loren, I searched and saw some diagrams for the "steering lock" in another post but I think it might have been referring to the actual key lock?

My searches have come up with nothing else on this topic.

I'm assuming that something needs to be tightened... any help would be most appreciated.

Eric

Suspecting that the latch/striker parts were the culprit, I examined them carefully. There is no significant wear that would be improved by reversing the chromed loop part. But for the heck of it, I tried wrapping a few turns of electrical tape around the part of the loop that is contacting the strike on the door. Down the bumpy road I went in perfect silence!!! That is a temporary cure, and of course the tape cannot last long. After several miles of bumpy driving, I returned home and examined the tape and found that it is most compressed at the inside of the loop where the door latch holds it.

I have a feeling that if I raise the loop slightly and move it inwards slightly, the door will rest more solidly on the ramp of the door strike and the door will be held tighter to the moldings. I'm betting that this will be a permanent cure.........now all I need is one of those little 12 point (torx-like) drivers to fit the loop thing.

Anyone know where to find one???

Bob

For many years I thought a Torx head bolt only took a torx driver... You can actually use a regular Hex head bit or driver(just find the one that fits snug). Even on those door latch bolts, a regular hex head works fine.

Hope this helps. Zebswiss

2000 986 5-speed

Headers

K&N

1.25" Wheel spacers rear

1" Wheel spacers front

1" muffler bypass pipes coming soon

Location: NW Arkansas

Hello,

I'm looking for some insight on a strange problem I'm experiencing.

After about 10 minutes of running, the left front dash speaker begins to buzz and when this buzzing starts, it also picks up alternator whine. Up until this starts, there is no problem at all, and the stereo operates as normal. This occurs whether the stereo is on or off. If when this begins I turn the headlights on the buzzing and alternator whine will cease and everthing will again be as normal. After a similar amount of time, it will begin again, and I can once again eliminate it by turning the lights on and off.

I have a fair amount of experience with aftermarket stereos, and have dealt with alternator whine before, but this is odd as it is not constantly present, and can be eliminated by using the light switch (my belief is that it is simply the change in electrical load that is making it cease, not directly related to the lights themselves).

Does anyone have any ideas they could share? Help is greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

Mark

Mark,

1. My first thought is a possible build up of static electricity... It may sound weird but the time delay makes sense as well as the electrical load temporarily fixing the problem.

If this is the case you should check grounds and crossed wires, maybe even double ground the speakers with a separate wire.

2. I also remember my Dad saying that older cars were always getting interference on the radio from the spark plug wire, the problem was remedied by a small cylindrical "suppressor" on the external coil housing... I know your car is much newer but it may not hurt to open the engine bay at night (as dark as possible) and look for electrical displays that might be causing a small short.

3. Since your speakers buzz with the radio off... there almost has to be a short somewhere... they are getting enough power from somewhere to buzz (maybe your alternator has a bad spot?)

Best of luck, zebswiss

Its sounds like(unfortunately) you might have imediate shaft bearings that are nearing the end of their life. Its worth checking the distributor and the cam chain rollers as well(doubt these will be it though) but its always somewhat difficult diagnosing these types of issues over the web. :cheers:

Thank you for taking the time to reply,

Assuming it is the shaft bearings... I am mechanically inclined but not super familiar with the internals on this motor... What's the fix? (Please don't say a complete rebuild!). Can it be remedied without a complete overhaul?

If you wouldn't mind telling me what you know in some detail I would be grateful. Thanks again.

I'm not really sure what could be making a noise from that part of the engine. Does the engine produce good oil pressure? Have you removed the dist. for inspection? Perhaps one of the advance weights spring has broken and it's rattling around at that RPM. Just a shot in the dark..... could you post a sound clip of the noise in question?

I had it out for the pertronix pointless upgrade... looked okay.

Oil pressure is High if anything... 90-100 on the gauge.

Thanks for the quick reply, any other thoughts you have are much appreciated.

1973 911t mechanical fuel injection, 85K miles, 5 speed, silver, whale tale, fuch's etc.

Any 2.4 liter experts out there... my 73t runs smooth and strong above or below 2000 rpm's and when it is cold.

It developed a buzzing rattle in the area of the distributor gear or cam chains and only when the engine is at or passing 2000 rpm's. It doesn't matter if the clutch is in or out or if it it in gear or not...it still occurs.

I was hoping that the new hydraulic cam chain tensioners I installed would fix it but they had no effect. I pulled the alternator out thinking it might be a really bad bearing... no change.

I can't pin point exactly where the noise is coming from with a stethascope but it seems to be the loudest on the distributor base and even lower where the gear is. It sounds like a gear hitting a bolt as it spins (kind of a metallic zzzzzz) and very noticeable rattle.

Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated... It's a beautiful silver little 911 with ony 85K on the odometer, it's in top condition I'm just afraid to drive it with the noise.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Pics attached.