zebswiss

Thanks for the link... I had not seen this one. I can tell they tried... but unfortunately they didn't quite "get it". It doesn't look good. Have a great day. Zeb

Yeah, I love my convertible too and really don't mind not having hard top... I just see everyone drooling over Caymans just b/c Porsche designed a nicely shaped... Boxster coupe (and it is nice). I just think it would be cool to have the looks of a Cayman and the versatility of a of a conv. for way less than half the price on these sweet older boxsters that are already a huge value for the $. Zeb PS I bet your 06 is nice, I'm too thrifty (cheap) to buy a newer Boxster...I picked up my 00 with 83k (miles) for $15K spent $450 bucks on: Ebay Headers($150).. LOVE THEM, K&N, 1.25" wheel spacers rear, 1" spacers front, drilled rotors, painted the roll bars to match, hand painted wheel emblems, did the muffler bypass trick (my first welding experience) turned out good but I usually keep the valves closed b/c the K&N w/ the headers sounds awful nice, and finally poly sway bar bushings to make it super flat on the corners... Anyway, I'm rambling. Have a great day.

Try Oklahomaforeign.com phone - 800-462-2446. Best of Luck, Zeb

Ondafly, Sorry I haven't been on forum for a day or two... Once I removed the bolts (on both front sides) step 4... my whole sway bar swung down with bushings and brackets attached. I then just worked the brackets and bushes off. I have a 2000 Boxster 2.7... maybe your car is a little different, or do you have rust in Ireland? Hopefully you got them on already, if not, I'll help if I can. Zeb

Patrick, Any luck? I am afraid your leather might be beyond help b/c when you take wet leather and dry it fast and hot it actually burns rather than just drying out... but it's worth the try. Chuck, I've used Dr. Jackson's too and really liked it. I just don't live near a Tandy anymore.... I've actually been making my own leather conditioner that works nicely. I use real bees wax(from a farm), melt it in a double boiler, add cocoa butter, coconut oil(mineral oil if you can't find coconut), aloe vera gel. Mix is around 70% coconut oil, 25% bees wax, 5% the rest. It may sound oily, but the bees wax makes a cream that penetrates and leaves a nice waxy protection that can be buffed to a nice lustre and won't stain clothes. Smells great too. Having said that, I also really like Meguire's Cream conditioner, but I won't use it on Perforated seats b/c the white residue builds up. Have a great day all and good luck to Patrick, Please let us know how your seats come out Patrick. Zeb

Sorry you couldn't get the poly's to you cheaper, Your new Porsche bushings should make a nice difference anyway... To answer your questions: Grease- It looked to me like Porsche used a canvas type insert inside the bushing to reduce friction, so I'm not sure grease is necessary. Tire removal- no, I did not remove my tires or the "end-links", just the actual bushing mounts. Good luck, Zeb

Thanks Westscoaster, Yes, I had seen Zeintech, and about 3 other manufacturers that produce them in Europe... I like Zeintech, nice quality etc. Too expensive and time-consuming to install... and get back to convertible... -I don't want to remove my trunk -I don't want it to be fully integrated -and I don't want it to be a major project just to install or remove. Race style, simple, ultralight, removable, pop-on, pop-off, one person change over, etc. I researched the heck out of what's out there prior to my post, But thanks anyway!

I would love to have an ultralight, no-nonsense fiberglass or aluminum cayman-style hard top for my 986...In the USA Here is what it would be like: -Ultra simple (race style) with six components: fiberglass(or aluminum) shell, rubber side-window and clam shell seals, three latches, and a rear window -No headliner -No need to remove or alter soft top or trunk -Easy mount and release using standard-type front latch and clips on bottom to slide under clam shell to secure rear(adjustable rubber straps?) -Flat vertical glass or plexi rear window -Rear "fins" that mimic the cayman's lines... sort of like a '77 corvette (so rear trunk operates as usual) -Maybe even a slightly "chopped" roof line to give a lower, more streamlined profile (perfect cayman specs would be smarter though) -Primed and ready to paint Sure, there would be some seams between the "fins" and the body but the overall look would be sweet. OR .... all of the above except that mimics the Carrera GT Targa top complete with the separate mesh rear bulges. Somebody make my day and tell me where to buy this bare bones ultra cool idea for $200 (so the manufacturer can make $100 profit!!!)! -Zebswiss

Thanks Loren, Any idea How much $ and where to purchase? Thanks, Zeb

Try this: Go to tractor Supply, buy some Lexol leather conditioner (Brown bottle $10 or less for big bottle) Go to Wal-Mart and buy some Cloth diapers. Thoroughly soak the diaper with Lexol, Wipe (soak) the seat with the Lexol then drape the very wet diaper over the leather, put a plastic garbage bag over the Lexol soaked diaper and then a folded bath towel over the plastic bag to weight it down. Let it soak overnight or longer. take it off and let it "dry". Then gently buff the residue off with a nice soft cotton towel. It may not get it back to factory condition, but it should help a lot. Let me know how it goes. -Zeb

Here is something I found on Ebay that might fit the bill... I wonder if there would be any complications with ABS? I Searched for: Adjustible PROPORTIONING VALVE On Sale Now...only 29.95 Ships to you Priority Mail w/tracking, only 5.95 ...FAST!!! This is a new universal adjustible Proportioning Valve, manufactured from billet aluminum with a knurled knob for adjustment. This can mount vertically or horizontally. This PROPORTIONING VALVE comes new in the package w/instructions. Note: Availabe w/CHROMED FINISH for 8.00 more, Just Ask! The purpose of a proportioning valve is to control the pressure to the rear brakes to prevent premature lock- up. It is fully adjustible for fine tuning, and can be installed with Disc or Drum brakes, on street rods, race cars, classic cars & trucks, 2WD & 4WD. (NOTE..... If you have a 67-75 Bronco, I offer a complete Proportioning Valve Kit, w/hoses & mounting bracket, in my ebay Store). You install this valve on the brake line that goes to the rear brakes. It connects to standard 3/16" brake lines and it has a knurled knob with fine threads which allows you to be extremely precise in your adjustments. Pressure Range is 100-1000 psi. It is 4" long and 1-5/8" wide. This Proportioning Valve will work on most any type of brake conversion, front disc, 4 wheel disc & drum brake cars or trucks. It cost less than a factory valve and is easy to install. ________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________ Anyone have any experience with anything similar to this? Thanks again! Zeb

Thanks for the input RFM. Under normal driving conditions your right, I can't feel the rear brakes working and the car stops fine... Under hard braking, the fronts lock up, on and off (the ABS is working fine). The rears never lock or even "grab". The truth is, I think the car is working fine(the rear rotors show that they are indeed working) but I would prefer more stopping power from the rear. From my 928S4 days, I remember that there was a way to adjust the proportion... because people had the same complaint about 928's especially for track use. I can't remember how they did it...I'll do some searching. My question is: Is it possible to increase the rear braking proportion on a Boxster, and if so how? If someone can answer this question, it will greatly benefit all of us because I've owned 3 Boxster's so far, and they've all suffered from the same thing... and with those big fat rear tires doing much more of the braking, brake efficiency and stopping power would be incredible (like my A6). Thanks again. Zebswiss

Does anyone know how to get my rear brakes to do more of the work? (I would love 55% front, 45% rear) It seems my front brakes are doing all the work. Just before my ABS kicks in, my fronts lock up and I'm just not feeling any rear stopping power. I've searched without luck to find any info on adjusting the front to rear proportioning. All pads and rotor are in good working. Thanks in advance for your input. Zebswiss 2000 986 2.7 84k

You got it my friend. Just remember, use the new bush and new bracket for the front, and the for the rear use the poly bush with the stock Porsche bracket. Grease 'em good! (I used Lucas green axle grease). Please let me know how you like the handling when you're done! Zeb P.S. nice diagram

Well yes, but there are technically two types of anti roll bar bushings- "end link" and "frame mount". The ones I'm referring to are the frame mount. The end links on a Porsche (and most European cars) are not the conventional 4-"doughnut" bushings end links (that Energy suspension sells) but are bolted to the link then bolted to the control arm... You can spend a lot trying to replace those with poly... and the don't really need any stiffening, they usually last a long time... you'll know if they are worn if they feel loose. I would expect 150k miles or track days every weekend to wear those out. Have a great day. Zebswiss