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Everything posted by GreigM

  1. For anyone else who ends up doing this, the top link is a captive nut, you need to take a 17mm spanner onto the built-in nut on the drop link itself. For the bottom you'll have to use a 17mm spanner and 16mm socket. It was a fairly tough job as the bolts were fairly seized, so a decent soaking in penetrant fluid is the order of the day. If your new links come with 2 new nuts (like mine did) you will only use 1 - which is what initially confused me.
  2. Hi all, I'm going to replace my rear drop links on the TT. Having a quick look the link to the sway bar itself is simple enough to remove, but the upper connection to the chassis looks to be a captive nut. Is it simply a case of undoing the bottom link then "spinning" the whole drop link until it's free? Or am I seeing things incorrectly?
  3. mattatk - did you have fluid dripping out due to the failed master? I am starting to think this is a good old-fashioned leak - I'll refill with pentosin today to see if I get some pedal back (that would be good as it would save me trailering the 15 miles to the garage). I don't know if the garage did anything - I would assume they had checked the level for a major service, but will ask the question.
  4. I've had some trouble identifying a clutch issue and wonder if someone can advise if its likely to me the master/slave/accumulator or a good old fashioned leak. It an 02 996 turbo manual. Over a period of a few days my clutch started to feel strange, with the biting point getting progressively closer to the floor, until finally the pedal wouldn't fully return, then fairly quickly I couldn't engage gear and the pedal wouldn't return at all. At no point did the pedal feel "stiff". Once I completely lost the pedal I noticed a drip under the front of the car (fairly central but towards th
  5. This really couldn't be easier to install - just locate the existing one, twist it 90 degrees to release it from the bracket then disconnect the wire - reconnect to new unit, put back into place and twist 90 degrees to lock into place. No adjustment necessary....
  6. No codes at all. Yes, it fixed the problem straight away - was very pleased as it only cost about £10.
  7. Apologies, its now a 2002 996 turbo, however as the pedal is the same I suppose the section makes no difference - so as far as I read the above, the PST is not required?
  8. I've recently replaced my brake pedal switch to cure a PSM/ABS failure warning problem. Its all gone fine and I've had no issues with it at all, but on a UK forum there is a dealer claiming you can't simply replace this $15 part instead "The brake light switch really needs setting up on a Porsche system tester as you need to reference the brake pressure in the system as to when the lights come on..! if the lights are on but not enough pressure then the system thinks there is a fault.". Now as far as I understand it the switch is just that, an on/off indication of the pedal being pressed
  9. Thanks, useful - I will be "discussing" this with the dealer tomorrow. :censored:
  10. I just went to try the spare key for my Boxster to find the spare is completely the wrong key - remote doesn't work and the wrong "pattern" is cut into the blade. The best I can figure is that the car came with the wrong key from the original dealer. So I called my dealer to ask if I could order a spare key - I just wanted an emergency key, so originally asked for the "service" key (i.e. the one without the remote) to be told that this can only open the car and can't start the car - is this the case? I have a 2004 boxster, can anyone who has the service key confirm it will start the car.
  11. GreigM

    GT3 ECU Pins

    Loren, Something funny happened with my race car and I don't know what it is... The RPM should have been a white wire and the throttle position a yellow and black. I could never find the yellow and black but I did find the white and guess what... NOTHING was logging. I finally got the RPM signal from the violet/green wire in the OBD II plug, conveniently located in the middle of the rear section. Thanks for everything! JM That's because the white wire is a input to the ECU which the ECU translates to an RPM signal and outputs via the wire marked "TN-SIGNAL" (Violet/Green I believ
  12. I bought this: http://www.ukobd.co.uk/gstore/store/g_view...sp?IDproduct=29 Don't know about VW.
  13. GreigM

    Rotor skimming

    Thanks Loren - new rotors it is!
  14. GreigM

    Rotor skimming

    Can anyone tell me what the minimum allowed rotor thickness is? I currently measure 32.5mm - does anyone know how much skimming removes, and if I would have enough left afterwards?
  15. I was looking at fitting a datalogger which can interpret signals on the car's CAN bus and seems to need CAN high and LOW signals - looking at the wiring diagrams for a Mk1 GT3 it looks like the DME is 5.2 as opposed to 338 in a C2 of similar vintage - and one main difference in the DME wiring is that I can't see CAN wires feeding the DME - would that be correct? The Mk1 has no CAN bus? Does the Mk2? If the Mk1 does have CAN, where can I find the wires
  16. I can't tell you what is wrong as unfortunately I can't remember the details, but I had what sounds like the same problem and ended up having to get a new clutch.....sorry. Something about the clutch cover being damaged.
  17. On this occasion the CEL did come on (steady), telling me of the misfire, but once I corrected it I had a friend reset the CEL - so can I assume no damage was done?
  18. I see on the OBD codes that a misfire can cause CAT damage - does anyone have an idea how quickly this will happen, or is there any way to test for cat damage (CEL light for example)? The reason I ask is that I changed plugs myself a while ago and because of poor connections had a misfire, which for reasons of stupidity took a little while to diagnose - I didn't drive more than 1/2 mile with the misfire, but started the car for a few seconds on about 15 occassions until I found and corrected the problem - will the cat on the misfiring side be damaged?
  19. Thanks guys, I have sent this info to the supplier and ordered the scanner.
  20. I want to buy an OBD reader for various reasons (including reset of CEL if I ever need it) and the company are asking me what kind of connector it uses - they pointed me to this page: http://www.ukobd.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15&PN=1 Which indicates for an ISO connector, pins 1 and 15 should be in use, but the connector on the car doesn't seem to match as it looks like that attachment (pin 15 empty)....any ideas?
  21. Loren, Thanks, my assumption above was wrong, the red/green I was looking at was the one in position 1 - and it seems to give the signal I was looking for. I'll try wiring that tomorrow. Thanks, Greig..
  22. Unfortunately doesn't look like it - the red/black seems to be 0 at all times (probably because engine is cold and blower is not needed yet?) While poking around with my multimeter in that relay support, there is a relay in position 7 which has a thick red/green wire - on my diagram this is called a "START LOCK". That rd/gn wire seems to go to 12 and stay round about there (dips to 10) when the car is cranked, then if I shut down the car seems to stay around 12V for a while - any idea what this is and will it stay at 12V while the car is running, or is it something used simply for starting
  23. Thanks Loren, will try that just now....
  24. Basically I need a 12V supply as close to the DME as possible - from looking at the diagrams I do have it would appear that the DME takes a 5V feed, so thats no use to me. The feed needs to be switched and not go to ground when the car is cranked....any ideas on a candidate source? On a similar note do you know if the cigarette lighter goes to ground when cranked on a MY2000 - I know it is ignition switched, but unsure if it goes to ground and the car is in approx 2000 pieces just now, so can't test this.
  25. I'm trying to add a datalogger to the car and need to power it somewhere close to the DME - preferrably the same 12V source which powers the DME, but I can't figure out from the wiring diagrams of the DME where it gets its power...so can anyone tell me the color of wire (or pin#) that gives a 12V to the DME? Alternatively is there a switched 12V close to that area of the car (the GT3 is effectively the same as a 996 when it comes to the wiring and DME)..its a year 2000 (pre e-gas). Thanks...
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