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GreigM

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Everything posted by GreigM

  1. GreigM
    That's going to make it particularly difficult to access in a GT3 with full cage and bucket seats.
  2. GreigM
    Sorry in advance as I realise this may seem like a simple obvious question, but is the DME the black box underneath the passenger (in my case, RHD) seat? :help:
  3. GreigM

    Cup Rotors?

    GreigM replied to GreigM's topic in 996 GT3

    2003 would be a Mk2 - Mk1 Cup cars would have been 99/2000 - do you have a parts list for these years? Thanks for the effort anyway.
  4. GreigM

    Cup Rotors?

    GreigM replied to GreigM's topic in 996 GT3

    In fact, checking on it the Mk1 has 330mm rotors all round - are those the correct numbers loren?
  5. GreigM

    Cup Rotors?

    GreigM replied to GreigM's topic in 996 GT3

    Brilliant, thanks Loren.
  6. GreigM
    Tha car has about 40,000 miles - I'll maybe get the ball joints and wishbone bushes checked.
  7. GreigM

    Cup Rotors?

    GreigM posted a topic in 996 GT3

    I've read in a couple of places of people using "Cup" rotors as they start thinner and are cheaper - these days I am disposing of rotors due to cracks rather than wear so if there is a cheaper route to replacing them I would be interested. This would be for a Mk1.
  8. GreigM
    I'm not sure if I'm imagining this, but lately I feel if I have been accelerating hard then lift-off fairly quickly I feel the whole car is slightly moving to the side....could this be anything to do with the differential or am I just paranoid? :eek:
  9. GreigM
    I have taken a set of rear rotors from a boxster with this kind of rust - so much that parts of the rotor was crumbling. It is a very common complaint in more humid climates and rotors here are not covered under warranty for any reason due to this.
  10. GreigM
    Another thought - if I have to replace the wheel carrier, does that mean I will have to get my geometry re-set?
  11. GreigM
    ToolPants - the last person to do this on my car was also an OPC mechanic - nice to see that we are paying premium rates to get the best of service :blink:
  12. GreigM
    Thanks guys, suppose better safe than sorry when it comes to brakes, I'll replace the carrier - only about $300.
  13. GreigM
    I thought the caliper itself wasn't threaded, just the wheel carrier?
  14. GreigM
    I was changing my front rotors today and one of the caliper bolts had obviously been put in carelessly by whoever did this last, and was very difficult to remove and destroyed the threading. When I went to tighten the new bolt it would not tighten and just spins - what can I do? Can the hole be re-threaded, or will I have to replace the wheel carrier? I don't want to drive the car without all caliper bolts properly tightened.
  15. GreigM
    Just a thought which won't be popular - I contacted the original owner of my car who then went on to have a Mk2 clubsport and a GT3 RS - he said the Mk1 was a far better car than the Mk2 - couldn't explain it, just something in the feel let down the Mk2, and that the Mk1 clubsport felt very close to his current RS.
  16. GreigM
    Surely if your front rotors are showing signs of stress, then bleeding the fluid will not help. If anything this is a sign that the fluid is good and the brakes are working real hard to trash the rotors - if the fluid was boiling then you wouldn't get good pressure on the rotors and they would in effect last longer? Think its a fact of life with stock rotors - in the UK where we have 5+ years of GT3 experience a lot of people are changing to floating grooved rotors to try and solve the cracking problem. The other solution is to buy Cup rotors which are thinner, and half the cost - but you are replacing due to cracking rather than wear, so this seems to be a good solution. IMHO drilled rotors are for cosmetic effect and not actually any good on track as the holes are an inherent weakness in the rotor.
  17. GreigM
    if it is him and he just upgraded it to a DVD whatever then he's kinda missed the ENTIRE point with an RS!!
  18. GreigM
    I don't know if the prices will drop much further for the Mk1 - it is now being regarded as somewhat of an icon, and in some markets the prices are starting to rise again. My GT3 is used on track and road and has done 38,000 miles now - and still drives brilliantly. I don't use it as a daily driver, but similar to you I use it for weekends and track use - it can get a bit bumpy at times, expecially if you are tired it can be annoying, but mostly you won't notice it as you will be having too much fun driving it. Here is a picture of the back of my car yesterday, you can see some of the exhaust - if yours looks like this then it is the stock item.
  19. GreigM
    The idle on my Mk1 is as rough as a badgers arse. The thing also likes to stall very easily when cold - almost like the engine management can't keep up with the lightweight flywheel and lets the revs drop too much...only for the first couple of minutes though, and noticeably when reversing out the garage so the uneducated neighbours can laugh under their breath. Exhaust looks stock to me from what I can see from the pictures. Brakes - should be fine, but you might also want to ask for a fluid change if the current fluid has been boiled on track. I would enquire as to when the clutch was last replaced - it is an expensive item on the clubsport and will only last around 20K miles, especially if tracked - if it has never been replaced you may want to negotiate a bit off the price. If you do buy it, take the front section of the cage out for road use, as unless you have a helmet on it can be very dangerous. The clubsport is also around 0.3s quicker to 60mph due to that expensive flywheel/clutch arrangement, hence why it feels so quick for a simple 60bhp over a C2.
  20. GreigM
    Well, it was 2 hours labour charge, but to be fair their hourly charge is £25 per hour compared to £100 at th Porsche Dealer, so I presume they have a minuimum charge to make it worth their while.
  21. GreigM
    As suspected, the anti-roll bar had come loose....just the vibration over time had made it happen. 2 hours labour to fix, no parts required.
  22. GreigM
    I have a similar problem/noise at the front of my GT3, and have diagnosed it as the anti-roll bar mountings (I can see the marks on the bar where it is knocking against the chassis). I am having the car looked at on wednesday by a local motorsport mechanic, so will report back to confirm. Basically the symptoms are a knock/clunk noise when at relatively low speed over bumpy roads. Seems to disappear at higher speeds.
  23. GreigM
    Brilliant - thanks Loren
  24. GreigM
    I have a problem in that my front anti-roll bar is knocking against the chassis. I think this will be down to worn rubber bushings/mountings which hold the anti-roll bar in place - can anyone tell me the parts I would require to replace these? Its a MY2000 GT3 clubsport. Thanks :cheers:
  25. GreigM
    I had a look at the fixings - look very rusted (suppose this is only to be expected on a 5yr old car), so I think I'll just clean up the tips in-situ.
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