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Posts posted by secretagent214

  1. Make sure when you're testing the door lock that both doors are closed. You can trick the car into thinking they are closed by pressing the latch mechanism on the door with a screwdriver (as if it were hitting the door striker metal loop). If the windows are rolled up, they should raise 1/2" once you do this. Make sure you pull the handle to release the latch before you close the door again.

    I don't know what those noises are. Just guessing, but the Boxster is supposed to flash the blinkers twice to signal that the doors are locked and the ticking noise could be the relay for the blinkers. I'm not sure what the whirring would be other than the door locks themselves...

    It seems like the horn would beep when locking to signal the problem with the door locks. Maybe the previous owner disabled that feature after getting tired of hearing it.

    Good luck.

  2. You described it as sounding like the ABS system in action. Since the ABS system makes a very rapid, almost buzzing vibration, the first thing that comes to mind is a torn engine mount (as JFP said). The second is a problem with the flywheel. The Boxster uses a dual mass flywheel which helps to absorb engine vibration. If that dual mass flywheel is going bad, you might notice unusual vibrations.

    • Upvote 1
  3. Just my opinion, but I expect that the car will run fine with a new coolant tank and fresh coolant (and maybe new water pump). It sounds like the car was still running when you parked it so it probably survived the overheating without too much damage. As for the cold, my Boxster is parked outside year round and just experienced some 0 degree weather a few weeks ago without any ill effects. That 70% water/30% coolant mix isn't ideal, but even that has a freezing point around 5 degrees F (at least according to one chart I found on the net).

  4. Are you sure the smell is coming from the front of the car? Try taking a whiff of the exhaust with the engine running right after you first crank the engine and see if you smell gas there. If so, you might just have leaky injectors; that would explain why it is worse after you let the car sit for a while and why you have to floor it.

  5. Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the previous owner put some aftermarket fuel injectors in there. If they are injecting too much fuel, the engine could run very rich and cause your prolems. The O2 sensors don't catch the fuel mix problem until they are warm (see Logray's comment). Here's a how-to on the injectors:http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/25-FUEL-Injectors/25-FUEL-Injectors.htm

  6. I had a similar problem last year, only I received the double beep only when locking. It was the microswitch on each of the door locks, or rather the arm that triggers the switch. On each door lock, there is a part inside the locking mechanism that presses the switch when locked. The rubber coating on that part had worn off with use and wasn't always able to press the switch fully, hence the double beep. Like yours, it was intermittent. It was a relatively easy part to swap out (door panel removal is the biggest step). I replaced the locks on both doors since they both were pretty worn out.

  7. My gut reaction is totaled. However...it's possible they'll repair it. I had a deer run into the side of my car (yes, the deer ran into a stopped car, not the other way around) and damage was very similar, though not quite as severe. The shop was able to totally smooth out the body near the intake and the door (impressively without any bondo). Total cost to the insurance company was about $1300. In your case, I expect they would just replace the door. Assuming there's no frame damage and the door isn't amazingly expensive, it might be a repair job.

  8. Just my two cents, but don't forget to check other things before buying the camshaft sensor.

    For example, check the fuel pump relay operation when you try to start the car. If it clicks on, then the computer is trying to run the fuel pump. If the camshaft sensor were faulty, it wouldn't close the relay.

    My car didn't start last week. Same deal...it just chugged and chugged but never fired up. I tried it several times during the day with the same results. After verifying relay operation, I checked voltage at the relay, then the fuse. I wasn't getting a ground at either. I checked the fuel pump connections under the battery...still no ground. Finally I opened up the fuel tank, took off the electrical connectors at the top of the tank, put them back on and tested it. It fired right up...I guess it was just not making contact due to corrosion or whatever. Anyway, a week later all is well.

  9. To make sure we're talking about the same thing...


    You're talking about #6 in the diagram? That part I believe requires a ball joint tool (at least that's what it says in my Bentley manual). There's a bolt that has to be pressed out of place.

    Are you certain it's that part? I had a lot of noise from my front and rear over small bumps, especially when hot. I replaced the diagonal arm, part #3 on all 4 wheels and the noise went away. Part #3 replacement only requires ordinary wrenches, sockets, etc. and is a little cheaper.

  10. I've noticed this as well. I have a couple of theories.

    It could be movement of the brake pad within the caliper. I had this issue with the front brakes. I fixed it by placing a little sticky back soft shim (the kind usually used on the back of the pad to reduce squeal) on the two points of each pad front and back where it contacts the caliper.

    It could also be a worn ball joint or other suspension piece that's allowing some movement.

    BTW, I think this post is probably in the wrong section.

  11. Have a 98 Boxster with a slight build up of oil on the passenger side of the center part of the intake distributor (The T shaped piece that connects to the TB). Also, there is a build up of oil on the back side of the engine block.

    I've read that the air oil separator could allow oil into the intake, but also read that a leak in the AOS would be accompanied by blue smoke and a difficult to remove oil cap. I'm not getting either of those symptoms.

    Anyone have any guesses?

    Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

    It still could be the AOS. It's only when the AOS has totally failed that you get the blue smoke and other more extreme symptoms. I replaced mine this winter after I noticed some build up around the throttle body. There wasn't blue smoke, but the oil cap was very difficult to remove. After replacement, I haven't noticed any new oil buildup.

    If you decide to replace it, Sunset has the part for about 85 dollars. It took me about 2 or 3 hours to switch it out.

    Another thing to check is the oil level. Too much oil can cause your symptoms.

  12. I have an aftermarket GAHH glass window on mine with the original '01 frame. The glass window hits the roll bars when I fold it back, but if I push up on the window a little as I'm folding it back, it will fold a little farther and give me enough room to work. Then, I take a bungee and clip one end to the rear of the top and the other to the front . That holds the window up and out of the way. It's a little less room on an already pretty tight access, but I haven't found it to be too bad.

    Here's a post with photo from another thread on Renntech showing how this is done...


  13. When you flushed the lines, did you flush it with gasoline from a source other than your fuel tank? If so, it's interesting that the engine ran for a moment on the fuel used to flush the lines but not when it started getting fuel from your tank. You said you tested for water, but maybe it's in some other way sub par.

    Another thing...you describer your starter sound as a "whir." Is this a sort of free spinning electric motor whir, or a chug chug engine turning over but not firing whir? A weak battery can cause the starter to spin too slowly, meaning the bendix doesn't engage or releases the engine too soon. That free spinning whir might mean it's time for a jump and/or new battery.

  14. If the top motion isn't smooth, it's possible the rubber bushing at the connection between the push rods and the rotating wheel have worn out. I have a 2001 Boxster and noticed that the top would sort of bounce around a little as it went up and down. Replacing those eliminated the play and made things a lot smoother. I also used a little spray silicon lubricant, but I'm not an expert on the best type to use there.

    Here's a link to those bushings.


    and so you know where to look, here's a link to the push rod. the bushing fits into that open metal loop at the end. There's one on the left and the right, under the clam shell. The original push rods have red plastic caps.


  15. I think this might become a battle of the household cleaners thread...

    There's something sold at pet stores called Natures Miracle. It's an enzyme based cleaner and is about the only thing that I know of that will completely get rid of animal smells without leaving a smell of its own. Anyway, you could buy a bottle, put it in a spray bottle, and spray down the underside of the car. As far as I know, it doesn't have any harsh chemicals that would damage your car.

  16. My 2001 Boxster has large Velcro pads at the corners of the underside of the mat and in the same position on the carpet to hold it in place. I got this car used, but it appears to have come from the factory that way.

    One of the most frustrating things is having floor mats sliding around in the car. They always seem to find the ugliest position to rest, then they sort of mold themselves to the floor there. It's like that old warning "Don't cross your eyes, they'll stick that way."

    Anyway, I don't have any helpful suggestions...

  17. Fellow Porsche owners...we have recently come to own a 1998 986 thru a family members passing. I am reasonably mechanically inclined as I do all the work that I can on our other vehicles. This 'cute' little sliver and black beauty just intimidates the heck out of me. I swear it sits in the garage with those big bug eyes and that front grill 'grinning' back at me daring me to attempt even the most minor of services. I was able to change the oil and filter (yippe). Now I would like to tackle some of the basic 'engine' maint....that being said I have read and read and even own the service manual about revealing the 'engine' compartment. I alas am a visual learner not a read and interpert learner. What I would enjoy would be to borrow someone for an afternoon (paid for their time of course) to SHOW me what I should be trying to do and how to do it properly. With my luck I would get the engine exposed and be so over joyed with my success I would then stare at the thing and wonder now how did I get all that apart. Are there perhaps a few likely candidates in the south central Pa area Hbg to be exact that could help out and assit me for a few hours on a Sat or Sun to help remove my fear of this vehicle. Any HELP would be greatly appreciated.

    Bentley's is pretty good - lots of pictures.

    Can't help you with your specific ask, but can tell you to not be intimidated. These things are not that hard to work on. Between Bentleys, Durametric diagnostic tool, the factory diagnostic manual, and lots and lots of renntech.org, I handle 90 percent of the work on my 986 race car - and I had very little automitive maintenance experience before. (You should see me now - I have a freaking lift in my garage!)

    I second ericinboca's comment. Don't be intimidated. I have two cars: a 97 Plymouth Neon, and my 01 Porsche Boxster. I do all maintenance myself on both and honestly, I prefer to work on the Boxster. The mid-engine layout can be a bit daunting at first, but the Porsche engineers seemed to have planned out every common repair so that each can be completed with fairly basic tools and without too much contortion. A good floor jack (or lift) makes a big difference.

    I imagine it's complicated to read about taking off the top access panel for the engine, but it only takes a couple of minutes and once you've done it, you won't forget how. There are several ways to access the engine including the top panel, a panel behind the seats, below, and from the rear fenders.

    The pictures in the Bentley manual help a lot. Last I checked, it was $60 from the "used and new" section of Amazon.

  18. Just last week, I had my windshield replaced by Safelite. I have a Boxster, not a C2, but I imagine windshield replacement would be very similar between the two.

    They used the same Saint-Gobain Sekurit glass that Porsche uses. It came with the antennae. I was kind of surprised that they were able to install the windshield the next morning after I called them...I think they must have picked up the glass at the dealer in town.

    It looks like they did a great job. I noticed one little dab of black urethane coming past the trim at a corner, but I scraped it off with my fingernail with no trouble. Otherwise, I can't tell it was replaced (except of course there is no big crack running down the middle now).

    I'm all for supporting the indy shops when possible, but Safelite seemed like they knew what they were doing.

  19. There is a controller under the driver's seat that if it gets soaked can be costly to fix.

    Not to mention rain's effect on leather seats... Watch out for that one-two punch of a quick rain followed by intense summer sun. It can turn leather into cuir bouilli.

    I often leave my top down in good weather, but I live in Charlottesville, VA. I've never had any theft or vandalism. If I lived in a bigger, more dangerous city, I'd probably put it up when I'm not in it.

    I guess ultimately it boils down to what sort of person you are. Keeping the top down is a tiny bit risky for all the reasons mentioned in this thread, but it's also just a lot more fun and convenient. Are you the kind of person who worries about leaving the coffee pot on? http://www.toothpastefordinner.com/060809/...ot-vacation.gif

  20. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=9824

    Item # 8 in the exploded view is a well known source of clunking noise, without any visible sign of wear.

    Yeah, that pesky item #8... Both of mine on the rear rattled until I replaced them (noticed at 115k miles or so). Once I replaced them, I realized the fronts were doing it too, just a little more quietly. All 4 are replaced now and it's quiet. For me, the rattle was the most noticeable at low speeds (10-30 mph) over mild bumps and cracked pavement. It seemed worse in hot weather. I couldn't find any play until I actually removed the arm from the car, and even then it was very little. I did the work myself...it's not complicated, but it does involve turning bolts in uncomfortable positions.

  21. Has anyone found an elegant solution for CD storage in a Boxster? Visor CD holders on a convertible basically scream "take me." It's awkward to put them in the door storage, plus slamming the door can knock CDs out of the case. I'd rather put other things in the little cubby under the head unit. The storage behind the seats and over the engine is awkward.

    I have a few ideas, such as attaching a storage net on the side of the passenger footwell... Is there anything better?

  22. The GAHH top includes just the fabric top and the rear window. If you go the GAHH route, you can just buy a stock headliner and install it along with the GAHH top.

    I replaced my 2001 top last year with a glass window GAHH top and I was able to just leave my stock headliner in place.

    Here's a forum thread (7+ pages long) that includes all the details on various glass window top replacements for the 1st gen Boxster: Glass window top replacement, For pre 2003 ...may have already come across that.

    Here's a link for a MS Word doc about how to replace the top yourself: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/DIY_Boxs...p_Canvas_RR.doc Those instructions are for removing and reinstalling a stock top, but the GAHH top installation isn't much different. There's just an extra strap to attach.

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