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I installed that same mount about a year or so ago and no problems since. You may be able to press it in with a very good vice, but I would recommend taking it to a machine shop with a hydraulic press.
Make sure when you're testing the door lock that both doors are closed. You can trick the car into thinking they are closed by pressing the latch mechanism on the door with a screwdriver (as if it were hitting the door striker metal loop). If the windows are rolled up, they should raise 1/2" once you do this. Make sure you pull the handle to release the latch before you close the door again. I don't know what those noises are. Just guessing, but the Boxster is supposed to flash the blinkers twice to signal that the doors are locked and the ticking noise could be the relay for the blinkers. I'm not sure what the whirring would be other than the door locks themselves... It seems like the horn would beep when locking to signal the problem with the door locks. Maybe the previous owner disabled that feature after getting tired of hearing it. Good luck.
You described it as sounding like the ABS system in action. Since the ABS system makes a very rapid, almost buzzing vibration, the first thing that comes to mind is a torn engine mount (as JFP said). The second is a problem with the flywheel. The Boxster uses a dual mass flywheel which helps to absorb engine vibration. If that dual mass flywheel is going bad, you might notice unusual vibrations.
Just my opinion, but I expect that the car will run fine with a new coolant tank and fresh coolant (and maybe new water pump). It sounds like the car was still running when you parked it so it probably survived the overheating without too much damage. As for the cold, my Boxster is parked outside year round and just experienced some 0 degree weather a few weeks ago without any ill effects. That 70% water/30% coolant mix isn't ideal, but even that has a freezing point around 5 degrees F (at least according to one chart I found on the net).
Are you sure the smell is coming from the front of the car? Try taking a whiff of the exhaust with the engine running right after you first crank the engine and see if you smell gas there. If so, you might just have leaky injectors; that would explain why it is worse after you let the car sit for a while and why you have to floor it.
Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the previous owner put some aftermarket fuel injectors in there. If they are injecting too much fuel, the engine could run very rich and cause your prolems. The O2 sensors don't catch the fuel mix problem until they are warm (see Logray's comment). Here's a how-to on the injectors:http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/25-FUEL-Injectors/25-FUEL-Injectors.htm
I had a similar problem last year, only I received the double beep only when locking. It was the microswitch on each of the door locks, or rather the arm that triggers the switch. On each door lock, there is a part inside the locking mechanism that presses the switch when locked. The rubber coating on that part had worn off with use and wasn't always able to press the switch fully, hence the double beep. Like yours, it was intermittent. It was a relatively easy part to swap out (door panel removal is the biggest step). I replaced the locks on both doors since they both were pretty worn out.
My gut reaction is totaled. However...it's possible they'll repair it. I had a deer run into the side of my car (yes, the deer ran into a stopped car, not the other way around) and damage was very similar, though not quite as severe. The shop was able to totally smooth out the body near the intake and the door (impressively without any bondo). Total cost to the insurance company was about $1300. In your case, I expect they would just replace the door. Assuming there's no frame damage and the door isn't amazingly expensive, it might be a repair job.
Just my two cents, but don't forget to check other things before buying the camshaft sensor. For example, check the fuel pump relay operation when you try to start the car. If it clicks on, then the computer is trying to run the fuel pump. If the camshaft sensor were faulty, it wouldn't close the relay. My car didn't start last week. Same deal...it just chugged and chugged but never fired up. I tried it several times during the day with the same results. After verifying relay operation, I checked voltage at the relay, then the fuse. I wasn't getting a ground at either. I checked the fuel pump connections under the battery...still no ground. Finally I opened up the fuel tank, took off the electrical connectors at the top of the tank, put them back on and tested it. It fired right up...I guess it was just not making contact due to corrosion or whatever. Anyway, a week later all is well.
To make sure we're talking about the same thing... http://autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996t-99-05/401-00.php You're talking about #6 in the diagram? That part I believe requires a ball joint tool (at least that's what it says in my Bentley manual). There's a bolt that has to be pressed out of place. Are you certain it's that part? I had a lot of noise from my front and rear over small bumps, especially when hot. I replaced the diagonal arm, part #3 on all 4 wheels and the noise went away. Part #3 replacement only requires ordinary wrenches, sockets, etc. and is a little cheaper.
I've noticed this as well. I have a couple of theories. It could be movement of the brake pad within the caliper. I had this issue with the front brakes. I fixed it by placing a little sticky back soft shim (the kind usually used on the back of the pad to reduce squeal) on the two points of each pad front and back where it contacts the caliper. It could also be a worn ball joint or other suspension piece that's allowing some movement. BTW, I think this post is probably in the wrong section.
It still could be the AOS. It's only when the AOS has totally failed that you get the blue smoke and other more extreme symptoms. I replaced mine this winter after I noticed some build up around the throttle body. There wasn't blue smoke, but the oil cap was very difficult to remove. After replacement, I haven't noticed any new oil buildup. If you decide to replace it, Sunset has the part for about 85 dollars. It took me about 2 or 3 hours to switch it out. Another thing to check is the oil level. Too much oil can cause your symptoms.
I have an aftermarket GAHH glass window on mine with the original '01 frame. The glass window hits the roll bars when I fold it back, but if I push up on the window a little as I'm folding it back, it will fold a little farther and give me enough room to work. Then, I take a bungee and clip one end to the rear of the top and the other to the front . That holds the window up and out of the way. It's a little less room on an already pretty tight access, but I haven't found it to be too bad. Here's a post with photo from another thread on Renntech showing how this is done... http://www.renntech....post__p__117592
When you flushed the lines, did you flush it with gasoline from a source other than your fuel tank? If so, it's interesting that the engine ran for a moment on the fuel used to flush the lines but not when it started getting fuel from your tank. You said you tested for water, but maybe it's in some other way sub par. Another thing...you describer your starter sound as a "whir." Is this a sort of free spinning electric motor whir, or a chug chug engine turning over but not firing whir? A weak battery can cause the starter to spin too slowly, meaning the bendix doesn't engage or releases the engine too soon. That free spinning whir might mean it's time for a jump and/or new battery.
If the top motion isn't smooth, it's possible the rubber bushing at the connection between the push rods and the rotating wheel have worn out. I have a 2001 Boxster and noticed that the top would sort of bounce around a little as it went up and down. Replacing those eliminated the play and made things a lot smoother. I also used a little spray silicon lubricant, but I'm not an expert on the best type to use there. Here's a link to those bushings. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...20%281997-04%29 and so you know where to look, here's a link to the push rod. the bushing fits into that open metal loop at the end. There's one on the left and the right, under the clam shell. The original push rods have red plastic caps. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...20%281997-04%29