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cvhs18472

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Posts posted by cvhs18472

  1. Not to be a fool, but what good would it do to know that your engine is about to blow up. Do you stop driving your car, do you quick sell it so that some other owner gets hit with a five figure repair, or knowing the potential failings, would there be a way to extend the life of your engine to an exceptable time period? If no real benefit can be derived from this information, at this time, why add $30 to an already expensive oil change. For me this would be an extra $100/year. I'm all for putting the money away for a 3.4 transplant. Ed

  2. When I finally cleaned mine, I found all the usual rubish , a dead bird and a five dollar bill. After seeing all the road side trash that gets sucked up in there I realize that clening them yearly is in the best interest of my car. It is fairly easy if you have someone to help droping the bumper so that it doesn't get scratched. Ed

  3. 60K maint should take care of most but I'd also check out:

    - AOS and update it if it's not at least ver .03 (current version is .04 - meaning it's the 5th design) - DIY

    - tires - I'm sure they've been changed at least once but I wouldn't want anything more than 7yrs old on there

    - polyrib/serp belt - I think 60K is a replacement. If just visual though, change it unless you know it's been done since you owned (or done in last 4 yrs) DIY

    - coolant - although it's supposedly lifetime coolant, your car is 10-11yrs old depending on when built. Not a bad idea to flush DIY if you want

    - coolant cap - if last 2 digits on cap are .00 then get the new version (.01 but apparently there is a .02 out there - .01 will suffice) easy DIY

    - inspect water pump for leaks (when doing serp belt)

    That's all I can think of quickly off the top of my head w/out having the '98s 60K maint in front of me to verify all that's supposed to be included.

    :)

    Thanks, Ed

  4. My '98 2.5 Boxster w/Tip is at about 55K miles. I got it 2 years ago with about 28K major problem free miles on the clock. I have put on , in two years , just about what the previous driver did in 9 years. I am getting ready for the Christmas list, and besides the items on the 60K maintenance, what should I be looking to change in order to keep up the reliability of my car? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Ed

  5. I´m continuing my 997S engine installation on MY 996 cabrio.

    Now I tried to crank the car, it won´t start. It turns around,but does not fire. For some reason the fuel pump does not supply fuel.

    I plugged Durametric, but cannot retrieve any Motronic fault codes. Before I could. The only thing I´ve done is disconnecting the old gas pedal (manual). I still have not connected the egas pedal...

    Three relays on the back of the car get warm (they are grey color, I suppose one is the ignition one, though don´t know which one).

    With Durametric I could activate the fuel pump.

    Thje Durametric reads ABS, Convertible top and air conditioning codes

    When I tried the fault codes option, the program just gives me a message of "Wait", but nothing else.

    E-Mail Durametric with your problem. They are so very good at helping out. They are the reason the Durametris is worth what it is. Ed

    What should I test? It´s obviously a DME related fault. The DME is 7.8, and I have installed a modern wiring harness,matching antitheft module and new matching remote/Inmob. key.

    Thanks

    kare

  6. Settle down folks...

    Fault code 21 - W lead (DME - immobiliser), open circuit

    Possible cause of fault

    - Short circuit to ground/open circuit in the communication lead between the alarm system control module and the DME control module

    Fault code 33 - Passenger compartment: monitoring sensor faulty

    Possible cause of fault

    - Passenger compartment monitoring faulty

    Fault code 49 - Klead

    Possible cause of fault

    - K lead connected to ground for at least 2 seconds after ignition is switched on

    Have you checked to see if the alarm control box (under the left front seat) got wet?

    That was the first thing that I checked and the rug didn't seem wet, nor was there any signs of corrosion inside the box. I don't seem to be having any troubles. Is there something that I should do or just clear the codes and see if they return. Thanks for the information. Ed

  7. I got a CEL and was getting the fault codes with my Durametric. As it has been a long time since I did any code reading I checked all the fault codes and besides the P1126 for the CEL I got 3 Alarm codes whose meaning I can't seem to find. If anyone can help me it would be greatly appreciated.

    49 KLEAD ?

    33 Interior Sensor Faulty

    21 w lead DME Immobilizer

    Thanks in advance for your consideration. Ed

  8. I have done a search and could not come up with anything on removing the seat back centers. I saw a sketch elswhere but could not see how they came out. Has anyone out there ever done it and if so could you be so kind as to tell me how. I want to add a piece of foam behind there so that my back will fit in the seat better. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Ed

  9. As I am built a little differently than most people( 6'tall, 56" chest and 40" waist ) I have a little trouble over long distances with the seats in my Boxster. The "wings" hit kidneys and such and my back is not truley supported. I was looking into getting seat heaters and the shop said that they might be able to adjust the wings out a little. Is this really possible and also does anyone know of any seats that would fit the 98 Boxster and give me more shoulder room. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Ed

  10. When I put on my winter wheels I also installed a front strut brace and 7mm spacers on all four wheels. I went for a ride and the car seemed real " light" around 80mph and above. The winter wheels are a recent used purchase as are the winter tires on them. I have a stock suspension on my 98 Boxter and made no other changes than those listed. Any ideas why. Thanks in advance. Ed

  11. I've just been going through similar issue's. I take it you have standard suspension? If so this should not be a problem to set up. Incorrect camber should not give you wobble, that is a balancing issue or something that vibrates at that speed. The issue with mine was that one of the rear wheels could not take off the camber and was a whole degree out of spec. It turned out i had to have new camber adjustment bolts and fittings that allows the camber to be adjusted correctly. After this they were able to set exactly to spec and my requirements. I suggest this is you first port of call??

    Thanks for the info. These new camber bolts and fittings, did the alignment place have them or is it a Porsche item?

  12. I have replaced the left rear tie rod and tried to have the alignment done. They can't seem to get the camber right on either side. The last alignment the right side could not be gotten to specs--close but not right on. This time both are out. I was told that to get the toe correct the camber had to be adjusted. There is a wobble in the car after 70. I had just put on my winter tires and had them balanced and they were balanced and they spun true. Could the vibration be steming from the incorrect camber and is there any adjustment kits which would allow the correct camber to be gotten? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. 98 Boxster w/tip Ed

  13. Congradulations, and the best of luck. It is different isn't it. When I first got my 986 the only question anyone asked was " How fast is it? " I would tell them that it only had around 200 HP and the dissapointment would show in their face, but if I took them for a ride or let them drive, they always came back like giddy school girls. Have fun.

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