cvhs18472

The cluster and the DME use the same temp.sensor, the cluster values looks OK what means that the sensor is not the cause. Make a bridge with a single wire from the sensor to the pin on the DME and read the values again, if they are approx. the same as the cluster there most by something wrong with the wiring ( corrosion on a pin or a junction ).I'm sorry i have no electric diagram to show. Loren can help you whit that. As wvicary wrote the intake air temp. sensor is part of the MAF, you did a replacement 7K miles ago, with a new one? the same part number? Take a spare MAF and try to use a PIWIS tester to read the values again to by sure, if thy are all still negative i'm afraid you will arrive to the DME.

I may be calling an item by the wrong name. The readings that I gave were accurate as far as the testing was concerened but awhile ago the sensor that was on the air plenium was loose and I got the P1124 and such error codes. I pushed it firmly in place and no more lights for about 1 1/2 months and 2K miles. Now this series of P codes. What is the sensor on the plenium? Sorry for the lack of knowledge, but educate me and I will know and be able to help others as you have helped me. Thanks, Ed

The air temp sensor shouldn't be reading negitive. I believe the air temp sensor is part of the MAF sensor, check the connection on the MAF sensor to make sure it is clean and engages correctly. If the problem continues replace the MAF as they are known to fail often. It is possible for two sensor to fail at the same time though the odds are rather against it.

I just replaced the MAF about 7Kmiles ago. Do you think thaqt it could fail that soon? Ed

Hi

I have some questions: the car showed 180 - Fahrenheit i guess

the coolant temp was showing 38-41 C - what means Celsius

Are you sure if the tester is compatible with the car ?

Yes I am. The 38-41C translates to around 105-110 F. The air intake temp also read a negative #. For the last couple of months I have been getting CEL's and getting the P 1124 and such error codes. I do nothing and the CEL does not come back for weeks. Is it possible that both have intermentant failures and when they line up a CEL goes on? Thanks, Ed

I had the fault codes 1124,1127& 0455 after I got a CEl. I reset the codes and checked the gas cap. The 98 boxster started to idle poorly and shut off. I restarted and it ran well. I took it to my mechanic and it showed no codes or pending codes, but as he has watching the run data he noticed tha even though the temp guage in the car showed 180, the coolant temp was showing 38-41C and the air temp sensor was showing in the minus range. What are the odds of both sensors going bad at the same time. Anyone have any ideas? Please help. Thanks, Ed

Nobody has any ideas on this. ? Do you think that my DME needs to be reflashed, or is it a case of two bad sensors? Is there a way to check the sensors for their functionability. PLEASE , IDEAS. ED

I had the fault codes 1124,1127& 0455 after I got a CEl. I reset the codes and checked the gas cap. The 98 boxster started to idle poorly and shut off. I restarted and it ran well. I took it to my mechanic and it showed no codes or pending codes, but as he has watching the run data he noticed tha even though the temp guage in the car showed 180, the coolant temp was showing 38-41C and the air temp sensor was showing in the minus range. What are the odds of both sensors going bad at the same time. Anyone have any ideas? Please help. Thanks, Ed

I got a CEL and when I hooked up the Durametric It gave the following fault codes; P1126 FC 35, P0445 FC 94, aqnd P1124 FC 27. The P0445 lists as a major leak in the tank vent system. Was this a matter of a gas cap not properly closed? If not, any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help. Ed 98 Boxster Tip 53K

Do a search for ''Sun visor mirror return springs'' all of the details are there

I tried that search and got 25 pages of stuff, the only thing that came up that was close was this post. Any ideas how to get there? Thanks for your help. Ed

Does anyone know how to remove the mirror assembly from the sun visor? I have checked the posts here and tried to look it up in Bentley's but no luck. Any help woul be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ed

I am leaning towards a bad A/OS too, been having huge puffs of white smoke at startup.

At first it was only at cold startups, the other day, I had smoke at warm startup!?

But the smoke stops pretty fast, in a few seconds.

At this time there is no smoke on start up and the exhaust fumes only occur after the car sits for a couple of days. When I was driving it every day I did not notice it as much

For the last couple of months when my car sat idle for a couple of days it would smell of exhaust when I started the 98 Boxster with Tip. After less than 60 sec. it would clear up and all would be well. This morning when I started it up the fumes were worse than ever and the engine would not idle right. After about 1 - 1/2min. it cleared up and ran well. Any ideas? The only thing that I can think of is that an injector is starting to leak. There has not been a CEL to this point. Thanks for your consideration and help. ED

I had the same 1124 & 26 error codes on my 98 Boxster. All inquires , including tech support from Durametric, gave the following possibilites: vaccum leak, oil cap not on, fuel pump, fuel pressure and MAF. It ended up being as stupid as a sensor loosened up. I reinstalled , cleared the codes and 6 weeks later still no CEL. All those things and more cause the 1124&26 codes. Try the simplest first and work your way up. Good Luck. Ed

I have a 1998 base Boxster and I know what the manual says about brake fluid, but is it both possible and wise to use synthetic fluid when I do a flush and fill on the brake system? Will the synthetic brake fluid harm the seals and such or is it not wise because of the cost aspect. Thanks in advance for your help and consideration. ED

Just out of curiousity, did your Pirellis get progressively louder the more they wore?

Yes for the Pirellis and yes for the Kumhos, but not as much. I already have over 5K on the Kumhos and they have gotten a little louder, but they are nowhere near as loud as the P-Zeros were

P1124 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Rich Threshold

P1126 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Rich Threshold

These codes mean that is too lean. That is, the DME can make the mixture rich enough to compensate for a lean condition.

Potential causes are:

- Intake air system leaking.

- Fuel pressure too low.

- Volume supply of fuel pump too low.

- Fuel injectors fouled.

Thanks

I have gotten P codes 1124 and 1126 on my 98 base Boxster with Tip. When I looked up the fault codes I got a type four which stated "Type 4 Short to B+/above upper limit/rich mixture threshold" Any help in translating that to something that a fairly new owner can understand? Thanks

I just got a CEL on my 98 Base/Tip with 41K. The P codes are 1124 & 1126 with fault codes of 27 & 36. I replaced the MAF sensor about 5K ago. Is it time to replace the O2 sensors or is it something else? Thanks in advance for your consideration. Ed

The O2 sensors are simply reporting that your engine is running too lean. You wouldn't replace your smoke detecter in your house just because it went off because of a fire, would you?

Check for leaks in the intake system, including vacuum lines and throttlebody connections. Make sure your oil filler cap is sealed properly. Are you running the stock air filter?

According to the fault codes it is a Type 4 Short to B+/above upper limit/rich mixture threshold. This seems to not be a lean problem. Maybe it is. I checked the oil fill cap and all is well. I am running a stock air filter. Is there any good starting place on the vacuum system? Thanks, Ed

I just got a CEL on my 98 Base/Tip with 41K. The P codes are 1124 & 1126 with fault codes of 27 & 36. I replaced the MAF sensor about 5K ago. Is it time to replace the O2 sensors or is it something else? Thanks in advance for your consideration. Ed

I don't know anything about them (there are thousands-some good some bad) but have dealt with auto warranty companies indirectly for several years. I have never heard of one with no interest payments for 2 years or any time for that matter. I would be extremely cautious about a company that needs a gimmick in order to sell its product.

Or are you just using them to finance the warranty or are they actually offering the warranty through themselves? They appear to be in the finance business but maybe they do product warranties too. How did you find out about them? From a Dealer or did an independant Agent contact you?

Most warranty companies are held off shore and are not subject to US tax laws. Sadly, many of them are simply savings accounts for dealers/corporations designed never to succeed as a warranty company but as a retirement account. These few bad eggs will collect millions of dollars then claim bankruptcy on the tiny portion of what is kept in the US. Now the business is closed but they still have 10s of millions gaining interest in the Cayman Islands.

Not trying to scare you or anyone else reading this but it does happen. It's a fairly common occurance in the auto business.

Again, they are probably just fine and on the up and up but with any warranty company I would find out:

1. who the company is that you must contact in the event of a mechanical failure/how long in warranty business.

2. What exactly is covered and what exactly is not

3. what their MOP (method of payment) is to the repair facility

4. If they are doing the financing only, what is the rate? (I'm thinking very high if offering no payments for 2 yrs)

5. Check to see if they place a lien on your vehicle by accepting this loan. If they do, RUN! as fast as you can!

6. Verify all of this in print and on your agreement, not what the Agent tells you.

Best of luck to you.

I am sorry about the miscommunication on the financing portion . I will make 24 payments of app 135 and there would be no financing charge. It is supposedly backed by Great American Insurance Co. which has been in business for over 150 years. Do you know if Porsche offers a plan for an older car? Ed

Has any one had any dealings with the Great American Insurance Co as a warantee service? Quoted a price of $3500 for a 73 month or till my 98 Boxster Tip reaches 100,000 miles. It currently has 38K. No interest payments for 2 years. Any thoughts? Thanks Ed

Glyn, I did as you instructed. I filled up the tank to the min mark when it was cold and did all the other stuff. It never needed any other water and the bubbles coming out were for the most small. When I shut of the air conditioner it proceded to fill the opening up to the top. I put the air conditioner on and them water receded to the max line. I never really did see a lot of movement of water in the tank. I am used to old sports cars which send the water moving. Is this normal or is there a possibility of a sticking thermostat? BTW the light went off and the temp never got above the 0 on 180. It idled for at least 1/2 hour. Thanks, Ed

Glyn, The only thing that I did was add the washer fluid and overfilled. This was why the original blowout of water. Lets hope that it is nothing else. I will do the purgr this morning. Thank You very much for the info. Ed

As I had said before I was a moron and put windshield washer fluid in the coolant system. The last time I drove it it pushed out what looked like a couple of quarts of liquid. I had thought that this was just the excess from the addition. When I started it up today the low coolant level light was blinking, I added about 1 1/2 quarts water as I have an appointment for a flush and fill Tuesday. The final level was on the low side of the lines. This did not stop the light so I took it to a friend of mine who is a mechanic .The car was running a little hot, about 190, and pushed out a lot of the water I put in. When the cap was removed it was full to the top and when we put the cap back on it pushed it out the cap. The light then went out and it seemed to be alright but a little warm. He said to take it for a short easy drive and see if the temp went up. Sure enough it did --past the 200 line and very quickly dropped down to a little past the 0 on the 180 mark, and the light started flashing again. I drove it home, app. 6 miles and the light flashed all the way but the temp didn't go up. Is this related to the original error or is just a per chance happening? And finally--what is happening? Thanks for any help. Ed

Sorry to hear that. Your Porsche coolant is specially designed to cool, protect, and (assist in) lubricate your system. Washer fluid is a mild soap which would counteract all of these things. If it was the auto store pre-mixed fluid it is mostly water anyway so you likely didn't seriously hurt anything. I agree however that an immediate flush (from a Porsche dealership or Porsche Independent) would be called for.

Thanks All. Will get that done REAL soon. Ed

I didn't bother to look in my owners manual to find out where to put fluid for the windshield washers after I saw Washer Water near the Green top next to the oil cap. I of course put in about 1/2 gallon and closed it up. I went for a ride today and when I pulled into the garage I noticed all liquid on the floor--about 1-2 quarts. The lightbulb went off in my head and I realized what probably happened. Is changing the anti-freeze all that is necessary or is there more to it, and if I have to change it where does it drain. Thanks for you consideration. Ed

I now have about 2K miles on the SPT's that I chose and there is no buyers remorse. My driving is not great , but I have been driving sports cars for about 40 years and these have not let me down. I was considering desnorkeling my engine because I could not hear it well, but not now because the road noise is much less. Wet traction is okay because who, in their right mind, goes 100 when it is raining ; and pushing corners they have yet to go way sideways. At half the price if the P Zero Rosso's they seem alright and unless their character changes as they age I am quite happy.