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Andrew started following 944 didn't pass smog.. seeking shop in Los Angeles, Radio Code Problem (2000 PCM), Strut advice please - complicated and and 2 others
After a dead battery, my PCM displayed the screen to input the radio code. In the past, I have entered the radio code and restored the unit without issue, but now it does not accept the code. I have a 2000 986S with PCM (Porsche Communication Management). I have the original radio code card supplied in the owners manual materials. Entering the code results in the same "input code" screen displayed. What I notice about the information on the screen is that there are choices for PCM and Navigation. The PCM choice is grayed out, and "NAV system" is lit. The original radio code card states PCM, but does not state navigation. I cannot guess why this time should be different after all the times over the years I have had to enter the code. However, I am wondering whether there is another code for the Navigation that is not the same as the PCM code supplied with the original materials? The PCM in general is working; the navigation function is not. I can access all the other screens such as the trip computer and settings, but attempting to bring up navigation results in display of the "input code" screen. Among the materials that included the radio code card is another card by Becker with a serial number. I have not found any way to use that information. (except for this link - why am I skeptical - http://www.radiocode.ivgsoft.com/radiocode.php?id=682) I am including a photo of the screen. OK,I just found the FAQ which refers me to the dealer. What a horrible predicament as I have not been in touch with those people in 16 years. I still do not see why the code is required now, but if there are no other suggestions, I will grudgingly go visit that place.
I am going to ask about installing my original suspension, if the price is right. I am reading online about shops swapping suspensions for about $600. This would give me the original (comfortable) ride and make the car reliable transportation right now. An even less expensive option would be to install my original struts on the front, leaving the M030 springs and sway bars. I have not yet found anyone who can speak from experience how this would work out since it is a mismatch. The labor would cost of $260 and not having to buy parts makes this appealing. I read that Bilstein is the OEM for the Porsche struts, and many people are using the Bilstein Sport as their first choice replacement part. Tire Rack supplies them for $486. That brings the job to about 750. I am thinking of dragging my original suspension down to the shop and ask them to have a look at it and give me a price and an opinion. This is not a Porsche shop, but it is a large and busy alignment shop.
CURRENT SITUATION: 2000 Boxster S with euro spec RoW M030 suspension. Front passenger side strut leaking badly. Sacramento alignment shop Linville Bros had the car up on the rack this morning and recommends I replace both front struts since one is leaking. They quoted me $260 to replace the struts, $240 to replace the strut assemblies. This is for labor. They sent me out on my own to source the parts. REPLACE STRUT CARTRIDGE OPTION Bilstein sport apparently are an acceptable replacement part. Shox.com offers them $509 delivered with tax. They are on back order and "might arrive in about a week." RESTORE ORIGINAL SUSPENSION I have the original factory suspension, or at least most of it. Looks like 4 springs/shocks and 2 bars (sway bars?). The original suspension was much more comfortable, and I wouldn't mind going back, even though the car was higher. Concerns are whether I have all the parts needed or would the shop need to order some replacements. Would the shop need special Porsche expertise to recognize such a need. Cost to restore suspension is unknown. NEW SUSPENSION Probably not an option due to cost. I understand that the new Bilstein PSS are superior in ride and handling. But since the kit probably costs over a grand and install will be that again, this is not going to work. I took the bar exam and am awaiting results in November, so after 3 years of school and still no income, I am more concerned with getting the transportation in order than optimizing the car. Any suggestions on another alternative, or whether to go back to the original set up versus just replacing struts? Any other comments most welcome. Thanks for any insights.
Yikes, that certainly says a thousand words and perhaps launches almost as many questions. I think the final labor is coming in at 36 hours and cost will be $6100 including replacement harness and ecu.
Apparently the problem with the car not running was the DME. When the dealer replaced the DME, the car ran 7 minutes before damaging the replacement. They believe there is a short in the wiring harness and are replacing it. Should be done Monday. Fingers crossed for finally a resolution. Thanks to all who offered help and advice.
The car finally made it to a dealer in SoCal. They think that the wiring harness has been damaged and is causing a short which blew the DME. They have not found the exact location of the damage, but think that a small animal may have gotten in there and chewed on something. Hopefully will have more information soon.
Update and more info attempting to diagnose..... 2000 S that starts but does not run. Pcodes posted separately. We spent some time last night looking for and not finding a disconnected or severed cable. Here are some notes on what we did and at the end is a list of 4 possible causes we have identified based on information so far. -Pedal cable intact and moving the arm of the potentiometer -Wires from potentiometer to connector seem ok and connections on both sides of connector for potentiometer wires seem ok. -Wires from mass air flow sensor seem well connected. -Wires to throttle position sensor seem connected. -Wires to ECM seem connected. -When throttle butterfly valve was slightly opened, the idle speed increased significantly but was surging more and engine died from fuel starvation, i.e. extremely lean mixture when throttle valve pushed open more than a few degrees, probably because air flow sensor not reading need for more fuel. -When fuel pump relay was unplugged, engine ran for less than a minute. Engine restarted and idled when fuel pump relay was reinstalled. 1. ECM 2. Mass air flow sensor not working 3. Throttle position sensor? 4. Potentiometer to which pedal attaches http://www.catalogguy.com/ecu20060401.pdf
Codes! Thanks Loren for the recommendationt o Duramteric.com. It immediately showed me a list of codes from the motronic. Here is a link the pdf file I created to show the codes. Any help guessing why the car won't run. BTW O2 sensors are all new. I do have a new MAF in storage (old style which is what I have now) I can get here in a few weeks. http://www.catalogguy.com/ecu20060401.pdf ecu20060401.pdf
Loren, the Durametric software looks great. My question is how quickly can I get one to San Felipe? The donkey express will add 2 weeks just to get it from point of delivery in CA to down here. Until you posted this product, I was considering an Equus code reader because I found a few posts where people are happy with the product and I can have someone pick one up for me in San Diego on Thursday and bring it down to San Felipe. I do not really have an understanding of the differences between the various products. If you tell me the Durametric software has more functions and that it may be more useful, then I will find a way to get it here. If you think the Equus is sufficient, then I will get it this week. Thanks so much for your help. Here I posted pics and links to the Equus products... http://www.babblers.org/forums/showthread....36739#post36739
Hi Loren, Thanks for your reply. To read the P-codes I must take the car to a dealer or someone with a PST2? Is there any value to the OBDII readers that can be purchased for a couple hundred dollars? The car is in San Felipe and if I can't resolve it, then I will tow it to San Diego which I expect will be about a 6 hour drive pulling it on a trailer. Can run fine for 5+ minutes after priming, so I don't think it is the fuel pump. Would really like to be able to check the p codes.
I wouldn't say the car won't start, because actually it will or at least it did (This is a 2000 S). When I turn the key to the first click, the car makes all the typical buzzing and clicking noises. When I turn it over the car turns over just fine and starts right up, but then right away very gently dies. It runs less than a second. This is repeatable: it always catches and never runs any longer. I disconnected the battery and grounded the positive cable to remove any charge in any effort to reset the computer. After that didn't work I also briefly disconnected all 5 cables from the ECU. I opened up the engine compartment and primed the engine by adding a teaspoon of fuel to what seems to be the fuel collector... see attached photo. The car started right up and ran with what I consider normal after having the battery disconnected (some idle surging). The pedal was dead. The rod is indeed connected to the gas pedal, but pushing on it does absolutely nothing. I suspect it is something electrical... a computer foul up, something disconnected, an immobilizer. The car had some work done a week ago in Los Angeles including replacement of the clutch, , battery, O2 sensors, and shift tower. When I picked the car up it ran fine and I drove it to San Felipe. Since then, about a week ago, I have taken the car for 2 short drives, about 20 minutes each. Yesterday morning the car refused to run. The nearest Porsche dealer is a long way away... any diagnostic suggestions?
Hydraulic clutch went out in Mexicali. Think it needs rebuild or replace master/slave cylinders. I will get the car back into the US this week and will likely find a way to get it to San Diego. Anyone have that reference for a 944 mechanic but now in San Diego? LOL, but that would be the most convenient. By the way, I live in San Felipe, Baja, so that is why this is such a challenge. AFA the smog, here are the numbers. The car passed visual, failed emissions....
I am told that it likely needs a new o2 sensor. Looking for a recommendation for a shop in Los Angeles or Pasadena that knows what they are doing. Thank you for any referrals.