RFM

Have you read this, http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/45090-seat-belt-adjuster-b-pillar-getting-cover-back-on/?hl=%2Bseat+%2Bbelt+%2Badjuster. Hope it helps.

Neat job, well done congrats.

The injector has continuously power, is operated (open) by a ground impulse switched by the DME. The injector can permanently remain open when the DME is defective or when the injector ground wire is permanently attached to the ground for some reason. However this is not common when the car is still with knowledge maintained or repaired. A ordinary leaking injector is in this case more common. Keep us informed.

The problem with the dirty spark plug (cyl.#4)looks more oil than fuel, the reason why i think that is based on the functioning of the used DME engine management system. After a preprogrammed number of misfires, the DME will proceed to closing the injector of the respective cylinder to protect the cats. for overheating, the plug is therefore (fuel) dry when removed from the warm engine after a drive. I'm curious for the result and solution, after disassembling.I hope it can be resolved at minimum cost.

I assume that the car is equipped with an alarm siren (ROW-RHD) and it is the siren which is sounding, right? The culprit is usually the build in battery of the sirene, 2004 is fairly old for build in battery's, You can disconnect the sirene temporary to find out what it gives, keep in mind that only the horn will go off in case of theft. Put the removed siren under a big pile of old clothes or rags, until its battery is completely empty.

I assume that the diaphragm spring inside the pressure plate will be broken, hence the weak pedal and the burnt smell. Good idea by JFP relating to RMS/IMS.

I would start with the electrical part of the ignition switch, this part creates all sorts of undefined problems after time. The switch is not expensive and easy to replace, the how to can be found by using the search button on top of the pages.

On a 997/1 is the gateway still clung under the wipercover, left side in the corner, next to hinges of the front trunk lid, below a square black plastic cover fastened with screws. The seals of the covers L and R, and even more wiring protection, should be replaced/placed by a Workshop-action due water penetration in 2006/2007 i would guess. I did a lot of 997/1 with this issue.

This is not a Porsche code label, from 987/997 there is no longer a separate code label, all codes are on a i-pass availlable from any OPC. upon presentation of residence and vehicle registration.

997/1 would sometimes have problems with the electronic ignition lock, hebce the loss or lack of power at terminal 15. For what's worth.

P0102 - Either the MAF or the wiring is bad.

Hard to tell but freezing temperatures can cause some additional noises inside the car, however it surprises me that the compressor makes noise when activated, the AC would not work at freezing temperatures, same system as freezers. Maybe there is something wrong with the temperature sensors?

Check if all the disassembled parts, connectors and hoses, put back flawlessly and without any risk of airleaks. I suspect symptom # 3 could be the cause, anyway it would not hurt to scan the car with a diagnostic device such as PIWIS, it's useless to guess what needs to be done without a scan.

Let the system first have to scan and reprogram with a PIWIS diagnostic tool, it is highly unusual that all four handles were defective.

If the actuator works well with an additional power source, it seems that either the respective wire is interupted or not receiving power. This can be easily traced with a multimeter.

Does the actuator works outside the car with the connector plugs in? If yes then there is something wrong with the lock or adjustments. If not check the wiring for breakage and the corresponding output on the control box for missing signal.

Looks as you said a dodgy connection, on the condition that the central locking system works well. The light indicates that the central locking system is activated or not, but is independent of its operation, same as the rear fog light indication light. The light has no error code function.

I would recommend to clean the engine properly in first place and check for leaks after a while, in that way it is much easier to detect a leak, saves time and is more efficient.

Rear fog and front parking lights are not recorded in the control system in a 996/986, only the later types with control box have this option, i thought.

Soft top with plastic rear window should not be put in motion at low temperatures, especialy when frozen, they will crack spontanious, they are too harsh as they get older.

997-1 has M96 M97 engines, 997-2 has a different engine, DFI MA101 and MA102, it is possible that they use the same oil check system as the Turbo cars, engine warm and idle. This must stand in the manual as it is the case.

Hard to say, it can be anything a blown fuse, compressor electric motor, air leak in the pipes or suspension bellows, air distributor, air supply tank, control box, etc. With a PIWIS diagnostictool or similar, the problem can be examined.

Update.

It was enough to remove the bumper and the heat shield underneath it and also another small plank to actually get full access to crank pulley and its bolt. We were also able to remove the pulley by removing the belt tensioner (bolt on the back, nut on the front). It turned out the crank pulley is all messed up and needs to be replaced. (( The crankshaft is fine however, luckily. The weird thing is that partnumber on the pulley is misspelled: it reads 996 102 170 71, whereas correct number is 996 102 017 71. For my VIN, PIWIS PET shows p/no 996 102 017 72 that fits all turbo range Porsches 996-997.

Should I get any type of a tuned kit like this one? Is it worth it?

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/evoms_porsche-996-997-gt3-lightweight_pulley-kit.html

Given the cranckshaft pulley (driver) is smaller in diameter, all other OEM pulleys, waterpump, alternator, steeringpump, etc. will rotate slower. This can cause all sort of problems at lower speeds as city traffic, idle, etc. These products are suitable for racing purpose where always high engine speeds are achieved, not for cars that are used on public roads.