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robertd

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About robertd

  • Birthday 11/01/1971

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    http://www.robertsdonovan.com
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  • From
    Auburn, AL
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  • Present cars
    1999 Boxster

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  1. Thanks, Again! My drain lines are clear and I check them regularly (both front and rear). My suspicion is that the water under my passenger side seat is coming in under the door seal (very common with newer Volkswagens). My car has had body work on the passenger side and I'm afraid it wasn't put back together 100% correctly. Interestingly, I get no leaking if the car is parked nose up on a 5%-10% incline. My new driveway is basically flat. I've considered parking on my Rhino ramps but that seems kind of silly ;)
  2. Thanks, Maurice. I had previously determined that pulling the control box was not a good idea. I do have water regularly under my passenger seat but the driver's side has stayed dry. I pulled the module a couple of months ago to check for corrosion and found it to be pristine. However, my keyless does not work which makes me suspicious that there is some other gremlin at work here. Again, my desire is to bypass the factory alarm until I can get all of the potential faults sorted out.....
  3. Thanks, K. The horn has been disconnected/faulty since I got the car. I had a buddy scan for error codes with a Durametric and got half a dozen faults. I'm planning on working my way through them but my schedule and budget are keeping me from it right now. I'm thinking that this is my car's way of telling me it doesn't like being parked ;-) I combed through my Bentley manual in hopes I could find a fuse I could pull or something. The alarm fuse is paired up with something else important (can't recall what off hand) which has prevented me from pulling it altogether. It is also my understanding that if I pull the alarm control box I won't be able to start the car. I've read about devices that bypass factory alarms to enable installation of aftermarket alarm systems but I can't find anyone who has used one on a car like mine.
  4. My '99 Boxster (US, 2.5L, 5-speed) has some serious alarm issues. I have searched this forum high and low and have tried all the tips and suggestions for trouble shooting alarm systems. Is there any way to just disable the alarm system completely while I sort things out? I was leaving it unlocked in my driveway to cut down on the annoyances but some kids got into it over the weekend and gave it a ransacking. Fortunately I don't leave anything of value in there. Any help would be appreciated.
  5. I replaced my MAF and removed and cleaned my throttle body (following the directions in this thread). I disconnected the battery to reset the computer and everything seemed to be working like a charm- car ran better than it has since I bought it 18 months ago. A week later the idle and stalling problems are still gone (unless I turn on the A/C- another problem in another thread) but now the car feels down on power. It hesitates when cold and generally feels like I'm driving with the parking brake pulled up a click or two when warmed up. No new CELs as of yet. I'm thinking fuel filter. Any other thoughts? I'd rather order parts all at once to save on shipping costs ;-) '99 2.5L US Boxster, 5-speed, 80K miles, questionable service history, AKA "Money Pit"
  6. Now that I've managed to get the passenger seat out of the way I opened up the front engine cover for the first time: The polyrib belt is definitely in need of replacement. Looks like it's about ready to go at any time :eek: Also, the A/C compressor pulley/clutch seems to be oozing grease: Any chance I just need a new compressor pulley/clutch assembly? Any chance they sell Porsche A/C pulley/clutch assemblies?
  7. See other post for seat update. Glyn, you were right about the tension of the catches being the problem. Thanks! :cheers:
  8. Update: Following juniinc's advice I re-installed the E4 30 amp fuse and removed the back cover to the switch assembly to identify the correct wires to jumper. Unfortunately, the wiring colors on the passenger side seem to differ from the driver's side and I couldn't find the correct wires to jump. I decided to take a picture of the back side of the switch body to see if someone could identify the correct wires for me. In doing so, I somehow activated the switch that angles the seat back forward. I let it run forward a few degrees and then tried the seat back release lever. To my surprise the seat back released and folded forward. I suppose that there was so much tension on the seat back that it was jamming the release mechanism. So, even though I was unable to slide the seat forward I was able to fold the seat back forward, gaining access to the front engine cover. As you can see from these pictures there are no switches left in the switch body. I have no idea what happened to cause the seat back to pivot forward and was not able to repeat the action. Whatever the case, I'm happy because I can now access the front engine cover :D Passenger switch location: Switch body (note lack of switches):
  9. Glyn- Passenger seat has the tilt quick release levers on both sides. Try as I might they will not release the seat back. Seems the cable(s) is disconnected/broken. Driver's seat works fine.
  10. I considered the polyrib belt. Problem is I can't move my passenger seat to gain access to the front engine cover. See my other post here. I may try getting a recharge to see what happens. Thanks for the advice.
  11. My '99 2.5L Boxster came with his 'n hers 8 way power seats with memory. There is a gaping hole in the leather and a bunch of wires where the passenger side seat adjustment switches should be. Try as I might, I have been unsuccessful in making the seat move. I've checked all the fuses and traced the contacts on the switch base plate with my Bentley manual. I've tried jumpering across the switch contacts to get some motion but all that does is throw sparks and blow fuses. I've even tried disconnecting the battery and selectively applying external power directly to the motor under the seat with no luck. The problem is that my A/C just packed up and I now need to get to the front engine cover. I can't move the seat up and it is pressed firmly against the rear firewall. I'd remove the seat, but to do so requires moving it forward to access the rear bolts :P Clearly I'm in a bit of a pickle. Any thoughts?
  12. My '99 2.5L 5-speed Boxster was bought used 18 months ago with an unknown service history. I bought it anticipating having to do a lot of DIY repairs. Fortunately it has been mostly trouble free . . . up to last week. I have had some idling and rough running problems for a while. I had already determined through research here that my MAF sensor was probably on it's way out. Last week it started stalling and running really rough and finally kicked a CEL for error codes 1123 & 1125. A quick search here suggested that I ignore the O2 sensors for which these codes relate and test the MAF sensor. Anyway, after testing and replacing the MAF sensor and removing and cleaning the throttle body and idle control valve all seemed to be well. The car was running great with no surging, stalling or wavering at idle. Today I had a lunch appointment that required more formal dress than my usual jeans and T-shirt. I jumped in the Boxster and with the late May sun bearing down on my head on this 80° spring day, decided to leave the top up and run the A/C. I drove about 5 minutes before realizing that the air coming through the vents was still blowing hot. Previously the A/C has worked flawlessly. I checked to be sure the A/C was on (it was- I usually just hit the AUTO button) and that the temperature was set appropriately (70°). I cycled the snowflake button a few times and that is when it happened. I felt the compressor kick on and then the car started to buck as I was slowing for a stop at around 30MPH. I put in the clutch and the car nearly stalled, recovered and then emitted a loud metallic squealing sound from right behind my head. At that point an acrid burning smell permeated the cockpit. I turned off the A/C, lowered the windows and continued on to my lunch appointment a bit sweaty and perturbed. Upon return home from lunch I first changed clothes then pulled the engine covers and enlisted my wife for assistance. With me standing over the engine bay with a flashlight I had her start the car then press the AUTO button on the A/C control panel (thus activating the A/C). Everything ran normally but she reported warm air from the vents. We let it run for 2-3 minutes like that with no change. I then instructed her to cycle the snowflake button. When she did I heard the compressor kick on and saw both halves of the pulley start to rotate. It ran for maybe 15 seconds and I was starting to smell the rubber/electrical burning smell again when the compressor pulley just stopped turning! The belt slipping over the pully made the same screeching/grinding sound from earlier and smoke started pouring off the pulley that matched the acrid smell from before. My wife, who's head was mere inches from all of this in the driver's seat, started to vault herself from the car as if it was about to blow. I managed to convince her to turn the key off before she bailed out ;-) So, here is my question: is this simply a failed A/C compressor or should I be looking for something else that may have caused this to occur? In researching this this afternoon I have determined that my A/C system has likely been running low on refrigerant (lots of periodic pressurized air hissing noises moving back and forth along the passenger side when the A/C was running). Are there any other parts that typically need replacing at the same time as the compressor? I have a Bentley manual and am pretty handy but A/C systems are something that I have basically no experience with. Any advice, insight, etc. from the Guru's would be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the long-winded-ness.
  13. Very helpful thread. I'm surprised no one suggested disconnecting the battery before attempting the removal of the throttle body on a Boxster. Going for the bottom right bolt on mine the socket touched the positive terminal on the starter (less than 20mm away from the throttle body bolt) and welded my socket extension to the support bracket for the air intake tube with a shower of sparks. I'm just glad I was holding the socket handle ;-) PHOTO LINK (You can see the weld mark on the circular portion of the intake tube support bracket just below and to the left of the throttle body opening.) This could be seriously hazardous if one did not fully remove the throttle body before cleaning (as suggested several times above) and this were to happen during reassembly. All that volatile carb cleaner sitting around the engine bay could get real scary real fast. BTW, cleaning my throttle body seems to have cured a stalling problem I was having while the A/C was running. Thanks for the suggestion!
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