jyoteen

140,100 miles. 2003 C4s, original engine.

Daily driver, Track car, etc. until 2012 where I bought a TDI diesel as a daily.

I searched here and I seem to have the first indication of the Fuel level sender going. Got the fuel gauge dropping to zero, followed by warning light only for the gauge to spring back into action a few moments later. So I'm figuring at possibly coming to having to replace this if it persists.

So I have a few questions:

1. Is there a diagram / procedure to do this oneself and can someone post it?

2. It is indicated via search that the Turbo needs to have the fuel sender calibration done by the dealer since the fuel tank is a saddle U shape due to AWD. Since the C4s probably has the same tank config, I'm guessing this is necessary on the C4s as well. If so, is this procedure do-able if one had access to the Durametric or some other non Porsche tool? If so, what is that procedure?

Thanks!

your tires need to scrub in and shed the finishing coating on it. give it 500 or so miles

Odd. My 996 cats have the 02 sensor plug locations like it is in your 997 drawing. Did you switch the diagram label?

I wonder if the shapes are the same (and length of the pipes) despite the 02 locations

Obviously I'm hoping this is a straight swap with OE996 o2 sensor location or at least the sensors being able to reach.

Thanks!

I would promptly refinish the headlights and put a clear bra type product on it that shields it from UV. i had Premier clear bra guys refinish my headlight and do a cover. There are other pre-cut solutions available.

My car hit the track at 1100 miles on the odometer when new. It's my daily driver and my track whore for 8 years and 130k miles.

I don't redline the car and abuse it, but I certainly don't baby it either

Ottos in Venice on Hampton drive. Talk to Daniel. Tell him I sent you.

I've done multiple 1400 mile trips (once a year) up the coast. No issues. Keep some oil on you in case you need it. I bring 2 quarts. that's it.

Yes, they're all OEM. The first 3 times were covered under the emissions warranty and then I just got used OEM cats from rennlisters, etc.

This time around though, unless someone has the OEM for sale for cheap, i'm really considering using a generic catalytic convertor due to to cost. I have until next year because of the CA smog check cycle. The car runs fine though but I have the rattle and the CEL currently, so I kow what it is.

My theory also has to do with the crappy CA 91 octane though but that's just a guess on my part. I'm convinced that 91 isn't really enough (it's borderline). I realize that Porsche tests the cars with this octane, but any prolonged full throttle driving in hot conditions and the 91 octane can't be enough.

Jyoteen - did you replace your cats with OEM the first few times?

I have no idea. Everytime I go to the track, a week later, I hear the death rattle. And a CEL follows indicating catalytic failure. The honeycomb structure is not only cracked, but the heat generated has parts missing.

Apparently, this isn't an unknown. My friend's 3.4 Spec 996 on the other hand (when required to run cats due to sound restrictions at Laguna) does not kill the catalytic converters. In fact, He's borrowed them off my car on one occasion.

The only thing I can think of is that the car runs rich at full throttle, causing excessive heat to build up at the exhaust.

I have 140k miles on the odometer now.

I wouldn't switch sides. I've gone through 5 sets of catalytic converters (140k miles) and the current set is bad.

"5 sets of cats"? I don't think we have replaced that many cats in total on all the cars we service combined over the years.......... What in the Hell are you doing (just out of curiosity)?

I wouldn't switch sides. I've gone through 5 sets of catalytic converters (140k miles) and the current set is bad. I'm about to take a spare bad set I have and have the cats welded off and a universal cat welded in place with disconnect clamps.

Good luck!

I gather the part numbers are different, but how different are they if there is a difference.

Will the 997 ones fit without alterations because they do look quite similar.

Sounds like the pressure plate 'fingers'. I just had that happen a month ago and was time for a new clutch as well

hit 119k on my 2003 this week.

nope. Same tire, OEM size on OEM wheel. I even tested it with factory tire pressures. Nothing has changed

You mentioned checking the tires. Are you running different tires on front/rear? Need to run same tire brand all around. This has been noted by others here, including me, with similar problems. Can't cross brands with the psm.

The PSM activation issue has been going on before the ABS/PSM instrument cluster warnings lit up. On searching I assumed there was a connection between the two issues, but apparently there is not. At least there doesn't seem to be one.

Obviously, the most expensive route of either the ABS pumpmotor or ECU hasn't been ruled out, but those are more expensive and I can't imagine it'd would cause only one side to activate, but I don't know enough about these cars.

Hmm... same switch? loose connector? bad switch?

yes, they were actually functioning before I replaced the brake switch which was odd. I was just getting the ABS/PSM failure notification in the instrument cluster, which is now cured with the new switch.

This has me completely baffled.

Did you check your brake lights too?

I have been chasing this issue for a while now, trying to figure out what the hell is the cause. I'm trying to go about it methodically partly because there's so much stuff tied into the PSM/ABS system.

I'm getting PSM activation/intervention when the car is turning left on an off/on ramp or a curve at speed. The speed itself isn't really at play (doesn't happen when making a left turn on the street, for example) but almost always activates on the higher speeds of a highway curve (whether the surface is at an incline up/down or level).

So far, we've checked the tires, ABS speed sensor, steering angle, yaw sensor, brake switches.

I had a ABS/PSM light as well, but that turned out to be the brake switch which is now fixed, yet the PSM problem persists. The steering wheel angle was reset and calibrated. The yaw sensor shows readings that are not out of range.

I cleaned the MAF and seems to be fine (It was fine beforehand but just in case, I cleaned it). I also got a new Battery just in case.

What else could it be? Help would be appreciated.

It only happens when car is turning to the left. Normal operation to the right. Is there something I can buy that logs the driving conditions and record PSM activation? maybe it's a particular speed that needs to be reached, a particular steering angle or yaw combination? What other sensors are on-board that affect this?

I cleaned my radiators recently. And I've never experienced cooling issues, at least according to the gauge. However, the gauge isn't that accurate and I do know these cars run quite warm. In the summer time, I typically make several trips from Los Angeles to Las Vegas. And as you know, driving through the desert, the outside temps can get upward of 110 degrees. The 3rd radiator probably not really a need, per se. But it's more of a preventative maintenance issue.

Also, I tend to be overkill on mods to my car. And there is a coolness factor to the looks of the 3rd radiator. :thumbup:

have you tried installing the lower temp thermostat? It is really surprising to me that the car, which doesn't have the performance envelope as a turbo, has the larger radiators hence having more cooling capacity than a c2 (arguably) with the smaller rads.

Maybe the thermostat just needs to open up sooner, which I agree the stock spec'd thermostat is rumored to open up after it hits its spec'd mark.

in all these years, i've never had the temp go above the norm, even when tracking the car. Make sure your radiators aren't plugged up by debris.

I live in LA, so during the summer, it's not exactly cool and we can sit in traffic for a while.

For sure......But there is absolutely nothing that indicates a symptom for failure. I don't know if they make aftermarket catalytic convertors either that fit. Maybe the cause is that the Porsche ones aren't just meant to be for my car.

I would find the reason way they always break, instead of always replacing, warranty or not, this situation is highly unusual IMHO.

Running without cats makes it a little tough to pass emissions isn't it?

true, but the car passed emissions last year, so i'm good to go for a while. I'll see what the problem is but it's abnormal to be going through so many catalytic convertors. Will have to call PCNA again. The last set, changed out at 90k miles (9k miles ago) was done under goodwill by PCNA.

The federal emissions warranty is 8/80. I'm on my 5th set of cats, and I have no clue why they're going bad this often. I don't have oil smoke either. Been this way since the car was new.

Now that the car is out of warranty, i'm just going to run without catalytic convertors since they're over $2K.

Hello All,

I am about to replace my front calipers, rotors not needed this time. I got the pads and wear sensors but forgot to get the bolts, which they recommend you change every time as well. Anyone have any thoughts on the necessity of that? I could see that there could be heat/cool cycle issues that could affect the integrity of the bolts over time but has anyone seen this or any reason why I can't just wait until the next change?

'99 C2, tip, coupe, daily driver 107k miles, runs like a top.

Thanks,

Gary

You're SUPPOSED to replace the bolts as they are stretch bolts, but I don't. Although, I change out my pads with a much higher frequency due to tracking, so i'm on my second round of the bolts.

Also use red locktite on them and clean the bolts, receiving threads fully with wire brush to get rid of the loctite each time.