Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

flyingpenguin

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    295
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by flyingpenguin

  1. Sounds like a disturbed shift cable (forwards-backwards) adjustment, as "phillipj" said, there exists a special adjustment tool to solve the problem.

    If you're comfortable with it, get the rear on jack stands, remove the under covers and check if the linkage is still properly connected. They tend to go loose sometimes. Here's a picture.

    post-16716-1256307906_thumb.jpg

    Check where the A and B are pointing.

    JP

  2. This is my first post. This has been a very informative web site. I changed my spark plugs last week! DYI posts were my motivation for trying it in the first place ... and not giving up. Only 6.5 hours and 1 bruised set of knuckles.

    I have a 2003 996 C2 Cab, 6 spd 70,000 km's I live in Canada but imported the car from the US.

    I took the advise and tried to search before I posted but perhaps missed this item.

    Since purchasing this car I always felt the clutch was much stiffer than any car I've ever owned. While it took more force to operate the pedal always travelled smoothly. A few days ago I notice my clutch pedal had a strange feel to it as I depressed it the first few inches. It feels as if it is sticking, causing it to not travel smoothly. It was affecting my launch, making it very rough. I also noticed in 3rd and 4th gear that my clutch is slipping. I'm at 70,000 kms and as far as I know the clutch has never been changed. My guess is my clutch is shot but the pedal weirdness seams a little to coincidental. Can a bad clutch hydraulic cylinder be causing my clutch to not fully seat and therfore slip?

    As the clutch wears the pedal feel becomes progressively stiffer. What you are describing sure looks like a you'll be needing a new clutch. If you are comfortable getting your car up on jack stands, the DIY is certainly doable for a newbie. I do recommend you get a transmission jack though. Maneuvering the tranny underneath the car is tricky at best, especially putting it back. You also need a star-bit for one of the bolts. Autozone sells them.

    While you're in there check on the RMS and IMS for possible leaks.

    JP

  3. Both of my bulb is gone been looking for a way to change the Headlight bulb for more than 2 days I just couldn't figure it out any instruction pls

    Really simple and there is instructions in the owners manual. Little tool in the luggage compartment that you use. Once you find the tool, open the hood, look for the little plastic circle covers behind the headlamp assembly (they'll have a picture of a headlamp on them), pop them off, stick the tool in, turn it. Whole headlamp pops right out.

    Take the headlamp assembly out, open the back, replace the bulb. Simple as pie.

    I just did this yesterday and the instructions in the owner's manual are not very intuitive.

    Once you remove the plastic covers (to the side of the headlamp, not behind), you can peek in and you will see a light colored steel nut, and the tool from the luggage compartment slides right over it (inserting it into the hole at a 45 degree angle) and by turning it, the whole headlight assembly is pushed out.

    While I was in there I replaced the rubber gaskets fitted around the assembly. They had completely disintegrated.

    JP

  4. I'm changing out the throttle body on my 1999 C-4 with e-gas next week and was wondering what to expect. I looked in the DIY forum and here but did not see a posting that describes it. Can I re-use the bolts? Does the ECU (DME) need to re-learn the new throttle body? Any special tools needed? I'm changing it out because its making lots of funny noises and does not behave well when cold (surging hesitating) codes are P0102, P1503 and P1506, once it warms up all is fine. Already replaced MAF with no change. Any information is much appreciated.

    Thanks, Jerry

    In the category of "I am just guessing here": Are you sure that your Motronic 5.2.2 ECU is capable of handling the e-gas throttle body? I thought that e-gas was only supported on Motronic 7.2 and newer.

    JP

  5. I've got a 99 996 Cab. Can anyone suggest a good racing harness solution that I could easily take in and out of the car? If I want to participate in DE events with my top down, I have to have a harness for both myself and my passenger.

    I saw that Pelican Parts has some kind of Rennline brackets available. Anyone have photos of them bolted in?

    Ideally I'd like to be able to install the harnesses on a Friday night and be able to uninstall them Sunday night after the track events.

    Are you signed up for the next DE at TWS next week?

    JP

  6. Joost,

    The replacement engine in your car have the latest up date, IMS, seal, crankcase bolts, bearing and larger retaining bolt + nut. This engines are good so far, they have still to prove their quality on long term but Raby's construction also IMHO.

    "Hartelijke dank" for your comments, and you certainly have a point there regarding the reliability of both designs...

    Do you know how these late M96 engines differ from the early M97, that I hear had their fair share of issues in the 2005 997's?

    JP

  7. If the engine is replaced off 01.06, you will have the latest update, inclusive reinforced intermediate shaft.

    Very interesting comment RFM. I have a 2000 C2 with a new engine that was installed in Aug 06 (engine# M96/04AT66Y66186).

    Can you confirm if mine also has the updated IMS and whether Jake Raby's IMS bearing retrofit would make sense in my case?

    regards, Joost Perquin

    (NL-er in Texas ;-))

  8. If you do search there are some good threads on clutch replacement.

    Lots of people have done their own so I know it's not that big of a job if you have the skills.

    You will have to replace your flywheel if worn. I would stick with the OEM parts for your daily driver. . Go online and you can get the Sachs OEM replacement kit for much cheaper that buying it from Porsche. These kits come with the alignment tool. . Make sure you replace the TO and the pilot bearing. Get some new flywheel bolts as well (they are cheap).

    Some say to do your RMS while you are there and others say to leave it alone if it's not leaking. You will need a special tool if you decide to do the RMS.

    Read the threads here and see what you think.

    Good luck!!

    +1 on previous tips. I would also get a tranny jack from Harbor Freight. This is indispensable especially when trying to line up the input shaft with the pilot bearing when mating tranny back to engine.

    I would also consider the IMS retrofit from Jack Raby. So much peace of mind... and it's cheap insurance.

    JP

  9. So all things being equal will the C2 go thru a tight Autocross course as fast as a C4?

    The better driver is always faster. I think I knew that going into the question.

    I would appreciate other opinions on this.

    The better driver is always faster.

    The power to weight ration will always favor the C2.

    Don't forget that these cars have a lot of understeer dialed-in with the stock set-up, which obviously creates less grip going through a turn. Power and traction to the front wheels in a C4 is nothing without grip. In a tight autocross turn your are likely to experience more understeer in a nose heavier car like a C4 than in a C2.

    How many DE's and/or Autocrosses have you done sofar?

    JP

  10. Do you get any problems at tech inspection for using a cradle that's a suction cup mount?

    Tech inspection would check for loose items in the car. This thing is stuck pretty solid to the windshield, so no issue there.

    You may run into an instructor that does not like the slightly obstructed view, but you can tuck it away pretty nicely just to the left of your steering wheel without any interference that could raise safety concerns.

    JP

  11. That's awesome!!!

    I do have an iPhone so this might just do it. I'll just have to find a secure mount and then practice in the neighborhood.

    Thanks!

    If you have an iPhone 3G(S) or a Palm device lying around, I recommend Harry's Laptimer. It's GPS based and once you program the start/finish as a way point it records laptimes automatically. It allows export to google maps with G-force data. Pretty cool.

    http://web.me.com/hschlangmann/LapTimer_Homepage/Home.html

    JP

    I am using this cradle:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...:EOIBSA:US:1123

    JP

  12. has any done this on a 2005 cayenne s

    i am thinking of doing this vehicle has 65k miles on it---

    do you know part nos for the filter and the pan gasket----also how many ltrs of oil is needed

    any other tips/information is greatly appreciated

    thank you

    +1

    I drive the crap out of my 04 Cayenne S with some occasional towing and I guess an tranny fluid change won't hurt...

    JP

  13. I'm soon going to my first drivers ed in a few years and the first time in my current 996

    What is the current best lap timer to keep track of my lap times? Back in the day we used the ones with the IR beam at the start/finish line but I assume there is something much better by now.

    Any other tips for brake pads, and other prep I should do to the car?

    If you have an iPhone 3G(S) or a Palm device lying around, I recommend Harry's Laptimer. It's GPS based and once you program the start/finish as a way point it records laptimes automatically. It allows export to google maps with G-force data. Pretty cool.

    http://web.me.com/hschlangmann/LapTimer_Homepage/Home.html

    JP

  14. I bought ny 99 996 c2 about 3 years ago with57k on it. Today it has 129k and counting. I've put alot of money into the car to keep it in top running condition but I've yet to see a failure of a major part. To date the most expensive repair has been a clutch and I've installed two so far along with a new flywheel. This car has been a blast and I'll be a Porsche owner for life. :)

    You see! Drive the crap out of these cars on a daily basis and they'll go forever. These cars don't like to sit still, not even for a few days.

    Mine is a 2000 996C2 purchased with a new engine at 30K in 01/2007. It's got 76K miles on it now, out of which 5K are hard track miles. I run Mobil 1 15W50 and change very regularly (every 2 DE's). No problems so far. I am looking to do the IMS retrofit this winter though.

    JP

  15. Is it possible to see the engine adaption using durametric tool on a motronic 7.2 system

    I guess that the timing is retarded by engine management if the knock sensors detects a ping but how to know and what values to look for?

    MY experience is that Duram at Durametric is very helpful with special tips / explanations re. our cars and his software. Shoot him an email and I am sure he'll respond quickly and accurately.

    JP

  16. Sorry, A 997-1 C2S with 60k miles.

    I do smell my burning tires on auto-x but do not smell any engine oil in excess. But 1 day on auto-x burned oil from full to one mark down. So some oil does get burned there, depending of exact definition of 'spirited'.

    I drive the S^%T out of mine and to be honest, the aroma created by the combination of hot tires and whatever residue lands on the engine block from time to time is kind of nice.

    :D

    JP

  17. I installed a new one after failure, following the DIY in this board. Bought it at soncoast or sunset, do not remember. If you want to save money, it is very simple to change, it just takes a bit of time. I did not know what I was doing and it only took me 2 hours.

    I did this one myself on a 2000 C2. Part prices mentioned above seem correct. This was last year, and I remember that getting to one of the 5 or six bolts that attach the pump to the block is a real pain to get to...

    JP

  18. I have a 1999 911/996 with 18" wheels (front 18x8 and rear 18x10) with front 225/40-18 tires and rear 265/35-18 tires. Recently I purchased another set of 18" rims with front 18x8 and rear 18x11 dimension which came off of 2002 C4S. Is it possible to install 245/40/-18 and 315/30-18 on the new rims? If yes, what are the requirements? are spacers required?

    Thanks

    Ben

    I am running 245's on the front 18x8 rims and 285's on the 18x10's (the ones that came standard). My suspension is lowered and I had to roll the arches a bit to avoid scrubbing.

    This set-up (with GT3 adjustable lower control arms dialed in at close to -3 degrees camber) makes the car wonderfully balanced (basically got rid of the understeer).

    Not sure about the off-set of the C4S (widebody) and 305's.

    JP

  19. Do the engines on the 2004 Boxsters still use the inferior IMS bearing?

    I thought I read somewhere that it was improved upon by Porsche. I hope/wish? so.

    I have an 04 996 engine that was a remanufactured replacement built in 06 that has a single bearing.

    mike

    Mike, refresh my memory: single bearing equals good or bad?

    Joost

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.