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About flyingpenguin

  • Birthday 07/18/1967

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  • Gender

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  • From
    Wassenaar, the Netherlands
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1997 986
    2015 BMW F11
  • Future cars
    2004 Carrera GT
  • Former cars
    2013 VW Touareg TDI
    2007 997.1 GT3
    2012 MINI Cooper S
    2004 Cayenne S
    2006 BMW E90 325i
    1999 986
    2000 996 C2
    1995 Alfa Romeo 155
    1994 Alfa Romeo 145 Q4
    1990 Alfa Romeo 33
    1986 Lancia Delta

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  1. This is what it looks like right now. First extended drive completed without any issue. Slightly more precise shifter feel (duh.. less slop) 🙂 . .
  2. Last week, on our way from Holland to Hamburg, I had to reverse into a slot at the gas station when I lost 1st/2nd and 5th/reverse gears. Carefully manoeuvring the hot exhaust and cats, I managed to attach a zip-tie to the detached linkage where the rubber insert had perished (old age?) Gear 1 thru 5 selectable again, but due to the slop (both top and bottom) no reverse.. Porsche's official solution is an upgraded set of shifter cables (986-424-041-10) and linkage assembly (986-424-913-06) at a cost of over a thousand euros. Recently acquired a 3D printer and started messing with tinkercad (a browser based basic version of autocad). Came up with these inserts that appear to have fixed the problem at a cost of less than 2 euros in filament (PETG) and a couple of hours of my time. Insert with socket for lower (8mm) ball joint. Securing plate that gets glued to the backside of the insert. Still had some slop in the whole linkage making it very difficult to engage reverse, so popped the upper ball joint loose, sliding off the securing clip. Rubber / plastic pretty worn, so identified the culprit slop. Designed this insert that fills in the worn plastic and fits perfectly over the top ball joint (10mm).. Problem solved (hopefully) 🙂 STL files available on https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4925982/files
  3. Replaced the lower control arms (#9 in pic) on all 4 corners a while back, but still noticed rattles when going over cobble stone roads (of which we have a lot here in Europe). Also when lifting off the throttle at speeds over 30/40 kmh, I noticed a vibration coming from the right rear, similar in feel to the rattle when going over rough surfaces, albeit less intense. Time to replace the a-arm / control arm (#8 in pic), suspecting play in the ball joint. Thought it'd be informative for you guys to see the difference between a good (used) one and the defective a-arm. No subtitles in the video, but you get the gist. The bad one moves ever so slightly, certainly noticeable to the touch.. WhatsApp Video 2021-07-27 at 12.28.39.mp4 Test drive confirms my suspicion that the rear vibration also had its root cause in the a-arm. 🙂
  4. "As I surmised, I had managed to swap the cam and crank position sensors." It happens to the best! Several years back had the same issue, but male and female connectors are color coded (grey for crank and black for cams IIRC), so will pay better attention from the get-go next time..
  5. Did a traceroute to www.renntech.org using different ISP's and they all timeout with a hop at provider DATACATE in Chicago, IL.. No issues on VPN as stated before. Very strange..
  6. Hi, I am located in the Netherlands and using the Chrome web browser, www.renntech.org will not load (ie. it times out). Using the Opera web browser's built in VPN feature, and connecting through their US server, the site loads fine. Is this by design? Rgds, Joost
  7. Reviving this old topic. Recently acquired a '97 stuttgart built 986 that came with a hardtop (a first for me) that the previous owner had never installed. Figured out I needed to install the B-pillar receptacles (see below) but could not get the locking levers to fully engage in the rearmost position. After a lot of fiddling around, I managed to get them to lock all the way without using too much force (which could break the small 3mm pin that affixes the lever to the locking bolt) by loosening (just a bit) all 5 x 5mm hex bolts on either side, allowing the bracket to move around just enough that it would position the bolt correctly while making the final 20-30 degrees of locking twist. Not sure if the little squirt of WD40 helped, but don't think it hurt.. Once the levers were in place, I pushed down on the top - holding the hardtop down to properly seal around the tonneau, and fasten all 2 x 5 hex bolts. Going to leave everything in place for a while so it can settle and keep an eye on the seal over the next few days.
  8. Good way to diagnose is to hook up a code scanner. Sporadic misfires don't show up as CEL immediately but will get stored in memory. Durametric is a good option.
  9. 2000 cars are e-gas IIRC. The noise is normal. It is the tac motor holding the plate in position. It goes away when running because the throttle plate is always moving very very slightly to keep idle speed. Some cars are louder than others. The noise you are hearing is the h-bridge circuit switching back and forth very fast to keep the plate in place.
  10. Crank Position Sensors on the bell housing are known to go bad. These are cheap and easy to fix.. Not suggesting you randomly throw parts at the problem but had this happen on several M96's (my own and others').
  11. Are the NITTO NT01's available down under?
  12. 997.1 GT3 only has one radiator fan. Right side if I'm not mistaken.
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