flyingpenguin

The lock solenoid react in some cases only with the remote not with the key. Since your car suffers with a central locking problem, you have to check the relevant fault codes with a diagnostic tool. Meanwhile you can remove the lever trim by loosing both deep seated allen screws (behind the tabs) and disconnect the solenoid from the lever unit.

Same symptoms (but only front lever locked on 200 996 C2) caused by a blown fuse...

JP

I currently own a 01 C4 and will be doing some high speed track events but no racing. I am wondering about what tire size and type is recommended for autocross and high speed road courses (Road America, Elkhart Lake, WI). Is there a good tire and wheel size that would allow me to do both safely? These would be track tires only.

Many of the answers I can think of depend on your capabilities / experience doing track events.

Judging from your statement "will be doing", I assume that these HPDE / AX events are new to you, so I would start out by asking you what tires you currently have on your car?

When I started doing DE's I had Michelin Pilots (not Pilot Sports) on there and their progressiveness in the novice group was confidence inspiring. As my experience progressed I found that Bridgestone RE-01R's were a good (albeit fairly expensive) combined street / light duty track tire. This got me all the way into our (Lone Star Porsche Club in Houston, TX) most advanced (white) run group.

Once I was able to retire my 2000 996 C2 from daily driving I got a set of Hoosier R6's on dedicated rims and currently have a set of cheapo Fuzion's on my street rims. Works like a charm.

JP

My goodness! Does this car actually see any roads? It looks so immaculate that I feel sorry for both car and owner. Aren't these cars supposed to be DRIVEN?

JP

Curious to find out if this worked for you..

JP

Hi JP, i have found a very easy solution with a guy of a Porsche dealer !

I have asked him to give me for just a day the special tool to do that job, but he told me that he couldn't do this ... but he had a great solution that needed just a hammer ... he also told me that this is a solution that they don't like to use but just because they have the right tool.

Well, in few words ... one strong shot with a hammer on the rear side of the ball joint ... and it works !!! :D

So now i have the lower control arms with 11 mm each side and -2° 30" camber and really great improvement in the drive feeling (on track) !

I really appreciate your interest ! ;)

I also put on the adjustable lower control arms all around. -3 front camber and -2.6 in the rear. With a set of Hoosier R6's my laptimes have improved dramatically!

JP

Curious to find out if this worked for you..

JP

It depends... if the cv joint has been exposed for some time you likely will want a new half-shaft.

Otherwise you will still have to remove the axle on that side to service either boot.

Doing some research on CV boot replacement on other makes / models, it seems common practice for the manufacturer to sell CV boot service kits. Does Porsche sell these?

JP

Last night's show was supposed to be the new season here for Top Gear on BBC America. No surprise that Clarkson didn't pick the Carrera while his two sidekicks used their brains

This particular re-run is Top Gear's 7th season. They just finished season 13 on the UK BBC a few weeks ago.

You're watching really old stuff, but they're a hoot!

More recent episodes can be found for downloading at finalgear.com. Go check it out!

JP

Hi Guys!!

I just bought an 00 Carerra. I'm looking for a good place for an oil change in the OC/Tustin area. The problem is I leave for home (Canada) on Sat and would like to get an oil change and a car bra done before I go as the trek will be almost 2000miles. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Max

The best place I have been able to find (anywhere) is usually my own garage! A filter and oil change is very easy and there are a bunch of well documented DIY's on this site and elsewhere on the net.

JP

Looks like a nice project! Keep us posted.

Curious to learn what you paid for the "clunker".

JP

Cups tires are great. For perfomance & traction. Not for long wear. But, that's the price of admission.

Maybe you need dedicated track tires & wheels.

Not sure what the price point is of the PSC's, but dedicated track rims are an investment while using expensive tires on the street is an expense, ie. throwing money out the window.

I am sure you can find a set of used rims that would make perfect track wheels for a lot less than going thru a set of PSC's every 5 months.

Just my 2 cents.

JP

You probably want to go with the Durametric professional version. The enthusiast version is limited to 3 different cars only.

Joost

Today was the first time I've flushed the brakes on my 2004 986S. I got a new bottle of new fluid (ATE Super Blue to make it easy), picked up a loaner vacuum bleeder from the local auto parts store, and went to it.

I didn't realize there were two compartments in the fluid reservoir, and accidentally bled both rear lines completely dry. I refilled with new fluid and bled all 4 wheels until new fluid came out, but the brake pedal is going straight to the floor and I'm hearing a whooshing sound from the master cylinder (probably all that fluid rushing to compress the air.)

I had my son pump the brake pedal while I held the pressure bleeder, and both rear brakes are looking bubble free, but my pedal still goes to the floor. Help! What do I do now?

I saw that Durametric's version 6 (now in beta, see www.durametric.com) supports brake bleeding. This would allow you to get any air out of the ABS pump.

JP

Hi. looking to replace my front pads and rotors. Wanna do it on a budget. It doesn't have to be original porsche parts. Is there an online site that has a good price on aftermarket pads and rotors? The prices seem to vary wildly from place to place.

I just ordered a set of Pagid yellows (rs29) front and rear from velocityspot.com. They seem to be able to offer a discount that not many others can.

Some websites are referring to Pagid enforcing a minimum sales price. I thought that was illegal in this country..

JP

Hi. 'car pulls very slightly to the right. No odd tire wear. I guess I need a wheel alignment. Dealer wants $350.00. looking at the manuals, i see there are quite a few adjustment points and some of them may even need special tools ('not sure I see why though). Do I have any other choice? I'm in the NY/LI area.

Whenever I see a post on alignments I like to refer people to these two articles. Even if you don't end up doing it yourself; this de-mystifies the issues quite a bit and prepares you better to select / deal with the shop.

http://www.planet-9....adjustment.html

and

http://www.planet-9....adjustment.html

Good luck!

JP

Im also having a charging problem: had the alternator checked at Advance Auto and it checked out ok, but when I start the car and remove the neg terminal it goes dead sometimes...sometimes not. Also a P 0650 pending code. Seems like an electrical problem as the car runs until it kills the battery but no battery light. Sometimes it charges and runs ok after I recharge the battery...anyone???

Thanks in advance!

Chris Hewett

You likely have a bad ground or bad alternator.

Or a bad connection where the cable form the alternator connects to the engine (the bolt behind the little black door, for lack of a better description).... I had this happen to me and ended up unnecessarily replacing battery and alternator. ;-(

JP

Hi,

These seats come from Taiwan. Why don't you check out this guy. He's really pleasant to deal with and I am very happy with the seats I bought from him:

http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/gt3seats.html

JP

Here's a good write-up on a DIY alignment check / adjustment.

http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews/showp...=232&cat=10

and

http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews/showp...=230&cat=10

I messed with this on my 2000 996 after I got a bunch of parts from Brad (thanks for the quick shipping and excellent prices BTW).

Not cheap but once you get to the Hoosiers, you really need -2.5 / -3.0. Obviously the car is not really streetable anymore. I have to agree with Brad though that it's not so much camber but toe that wears the tires. I have -3.0 in the front with neutral toe and tires (both track and street) wear very little. The rear is at -2.6 with about 0.15 degrees of toe in on each side (for a total of 0.3 degrees) and they wear quite fast.

Interestingly enough this setup wore out the Hoosier rears (275/35/18s) in only 15 sessions. I upsized to 285/30/18s now and my initial impression is that the wear is now much more even (inside vs. out). Maybe this has to do with my improved driving resulting in actually using all of the tire's capabilities.

JP

Can anyone tell me where to find a voltage regulator for a 2001 Boxster?

My car is not holding a constant voltage and it is surging up and down about 200 RPM. While at the same time all the electrical items pulse up and down with the RPM. The battery checks out and this is my next option.

I am also getting the code “9133 61 term low engine running” any ideas or suggestions for further diagnostics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tarry

The voltage regulator is part of the alternator and can be removed / exchanged quite easily with an aftermarket part once the alternator is out. On a 996 not a very difficult job. Don't know about thew Boxster.

Good luck, JP

so i replaced the idler pulley and the noise continues. it still only happens when i start it and i can occasionally hear a trace of it when driving...barely noticeable when driving, not near the 2 second squeal i get at start. the tech said it might also be the air oil separator...the part is not expensive ($150) but i hear the labor quote at 6-8 hours. i had a friend start it while listening and it does sound like it comes from the alternator (which is why i replaced that idler pulley). guess i will try to replace that bearing that mkazemi71 was talking about.

Another possible source is a dried out end cap on your starter motor. Fairly easy DIY once you get the hang of removing the alternator.

JP

No, i'm not in a great hurry, don't need the car to be ready tomorrow.

So, i'm gonna check 2 shops in my city but if i will not find the right tool you would give me a great help.

I will PM you ... meantime let me tell you thank you ... you are really very kind ! :thankyou:

Prego!

Joost

Thank you guys for your support !

Yes, it looks very easy with the right tool ... now i just have to see where to buy one !

I would like to buy one of them from Harbor freight but unfortunately i live in italy and i already know that i will have to become crazy to find the right one!

I will try in some Castorama or some well equipped shop !

If you're not in a terribly big hurry I don't mind picking one up at HF and mail it to you.

PM Me if that's what you want to do.

Joost

Hi, i'm trying to change the oem front control arms of my car with the adjustable front GT3 control arms but i can't separate the carrier from the lower control arm ball joint !

I don't know how to do it ... i don't want to use the hammer but i'm seriously thinking of it !!!

Please help me ... any suggestions appreciated ... special tools to be used ... anything !!!

Thank you

You seem so desperate, and yet it is really easy.... I just did mine a few weeks ago (both front and rear).

This is what you need: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=99849

It's under 20 bucks at harbor freight.

The pic attached indicates how to use it. Be aware of the big bang!

Joost

Great stuff Jake!

I have been following your efforts for a while now and this seems like a pretty solid solution.

I have a 2000 996 with the 3.4 engine replaced in Aug-06 (the previous owner D-chunked it). I am mostly using the car for the track and am obviously concerned about the replacement engine bombing on me some day.

Would you recommend I sign up for your R&D program?

Joost

Here are two good articles on a DIY alignment:

http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews/showp...=232&cat=10

and

http://www.planetporsche.net/reviews/showp...=230&cat=10

I tinkered with it over the last few weeks and took the car to the track (Texas World Speedway in College Station: the hidden gem of the South) this weekend on new rubber (Hoosiers :) ). I was amazed at how well sorted the car behaved! In the process shaved 8 seconds off my avg. laptime.

Joost

I noticed that they have 2 different model Uview... model number 550500 and 550000. Do they work the same? Is one better than the other? I like the fact that the 550000 comes in a molded case... but is the 550500 and updated version, therefore better? decisions decisions??? What do you guys recommend?

Thanks

The 550000 is made of solid brass parts, with very high quality fittings. That's the one I used and it is one terrific tool. You can't go wrong with that one.

Regards, Maurice.

But for occasional use in a DIY setting the one with plastic bits works just as well....

Joost