flyingpenguin

Opening up and old thread.

As the trans / dif on the Boxster and 996 are basically the same, I figure this is a good starting point for a discussion regarding my question.

Assuming a removed differential (from my 996), how difficult of a DIY is it to install the QUAIFE LSD? What's involved (apart from buying the right parts) and are there any special (expensive) tools needed in the process?

Joost

What temperature is a 3.4 996 supposed to run at? Mine says 101C. Seems reasonable (just around boiling).

Low 90's C is more normal.

JP

The exterior aluminum trim on my 04 CS is starting to look stained and dirty. Normal soap and water do not help, and nor does Mother's aluminum cleaner. I was wondering if that is because the trim pieces are clear coated.

Joost

As vizcarra44 mentions the AirLift II vacuum pump (connects to shop air) works like a charm!

Here's a place online that sells it: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/uv550500.html

Joost

PS: Anyone in the Woodlands / Houston area that needs a hand with this, give me a shout.

don't paint it, powdercoat it

+1 for powder coating. I paid approx. 120 bucks per wheel for a super durable silver metallic + clearcoat powder coating job. Just make sure that you tell the guys to keep the powder coat from getting into the center hole. This stuff is so tough that it took me a good while to scrape it off in order for the wheels to fit on the hub again...

Joost

Your voltage numbers are normal in my opinion. As long as your not running under 12 your car is simply responding to demand...like after you've ringed it out stating it up.

What does "wont start" mean? No cranking at all? Some? cranks but won't kick over?

Regards, PK

You have probably seen my recent post on battery / alternator problems. Turned out is was a loose positive connection from the engine to the battery.

My advise would be to check all connections really carefully before throwing money at new parts.

Just my $0.02...

Joost

Interesting post. I have changed out the yellow-ish bulbs for whiter ones in the past and found they lasted only a few months. I realize there are quality differences between brands, but the fact that these white bulbs run much hotter, makes me sceptical. Can anyone of you that have tried this, post back in 6 months or so and report on durability?

Joost

I changed the oil on my Cayenne the other day and also cut open the filter. Same deal. One small particle every two or three pleads, only visible in direct light, similar to my 10 year old daughter putting sparkles on her face.

I guess this is normal, and only noticeable when you cut open the filter. Alternatively I have TWO engines that are on their way out. Unlikely but a daunting prospect nonetheless. At least the Cayenne is still under CPO...

Joost

After having spent over 400 bucks on a new alternator and battery, it turns out the connection from the engine to the battery positive was loose.....

There is a little door right above the AC pump with a big + on it. When we dropped the engine over X-mas, I assume this little nut was not tightened properly and came loose on the track a few weeks ago.

On the positive side, I reconditioned the starter and have a new (much "whinier") alternator. and don't have to worry about the battery for the years to come either.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and comments and special kudo's to RFM. "Hartelijke dank" to my fellow Dutch speaking renntech-er.

Joost

Or alternatively drop the transmission, put it on its side and refill by gravity.

Good opportunity to check clutch, RMS and what have you....

JP

Joost

It's a very bad idea removing the battery poles (or the battery) with the engine running, the operative power peaks can destroy the alternator or diode bridges.

Thanks for the warning. Should I start from zero again and have the alternator bench checked again?

Do any of my concerns above make any sense to you?

Joost

A quick update:

- Had the alternator tested at Autozone. Their machine tests the alternator AND the voltage regulator. Both passed.

- Had the battery tested and all within spec.

- Even with the battery fully charged the starter does not "run". Just a clicking sound upon ignition. So far I did not inspect the starter, because it is a less than a year old reman.

Nonetheless I decided to replace both the battery and alternator (reman from Autozone for the latter). Just to be on the safe side. In the process got a lot of tips from the people at Autozone, Advance etc.

Other checks done so far:

- Voltage WITH battery connectors attached: varies between 11.9 and 13.9 V DC.

- At some point the engine died when disconnecting the battery poles. When doing that for a second time the engine almost died, but caught itself and went back to stationary.

- At some point I have also measured an AC voltage around 24-25V (with the battery poles dissconnected), indicating a bad voltage regulator, I guess. The **** thing is new though!

I am starting to think that the small wire feeding off the main harness on the engine to the alternator may be the culprit. I assume this is the wire that provides a current to either the stator or rotor of the alternator and somehow this little guy is wreaking havoc, and hence the temperamental behavior of my alternator. Is there a way to check this with the engine running?

Another theory of mine is that the starter motor is stuck and is drawing a current because it is not properly disengaging, thus causing the strong differences in charging voltage.

As you can imagine, I am getting a little frustrated and your comments are more than welcome.

Joost

Over the past few days, the battery has not been charging. With a battery charger I was able to get enough juice in there to start the engine. When driving, the voltage indicator on the dash is moving erratically between 11 and 13 volts (approx). I checked the two connections on the alternator, but problem persists.

Should I replace the alternator or the voltage regulator?

Joost

Or you can keep your coolant temperature below 200F at all times by doing my simple fan mod. Cost is virtually nothing.

Got the OMRON MY2K relay in (finally), and I am at a loss how to wire it properly. Previously posted diagrams seem to have vanished (yes I searched).

Does anyone have a complete diagram with the Porsche toggle switch, the OMRON relay and the wiring to the fan relays?

Joost

You should be able to a least see if they are magnetic or not. If so, most likely bearings or rings. If not, likely chain tensioner or water pump.

Picked up some very tiny pieces off the filter material with a small magnet at the end of an antenna like rod. Indeed they are magnetic, so I am fearing the worst: bearings.

Two questions:

- If non magnetic, water pump? How could a failing water pump release metal shavings into the oil system?

- A car that is driven hard (like we are supposed to with our Porsches) should not leave ANY metal residue in the oil? I have not looked at previously used oil filter material, so I have no point of reference what is normal (at least for my engine), but what I am trying to establish is whether I am seeing normal wear (for the use I am giving my engine) or that serious failure is indeed impending...

I guess Brad's expert eye in a few weeks is going to resolve the issue.

Joost

Brad,

I'll be up in College Station at the LSR PCA Club Race all three days. Did not see you name on the roster yet.

I'll bring the filter so you can take a look at it and tell me what you think.

In the meantime the car is sitting still anyways, as I am waiting on new seats.

BTW: Tried to get a couple of good pics of the particles, but they are so small, it was hard discern. I'll try with better lighting to get some of the speckles to show up / sparkle in the picture.

Joost

Last week I changed my oil after about 5K miles incl. 6 track days. After letting the filter drain over the week, I cut it open and was rather surprised by the amount of tiny (very tiny!) shavings I found on almost every plead of the filter material.

I realize that my description and assessment of particle size above is subjective, but what I am trying to establish is, how normal is it to see metal shavings in the oil filter on a factory rebuilt engine (installed in 2006) with 40K miles on it?

Joost

Bruce,

I live in Houston, TX so I have seen temps upto 112 C (on my 2000 996 C2, I can get the coolant temp on my AC display).

I track the car quite a bit and installed the 3rd radiator. In stop and go traffic over 70 degrees F ambient, coolant temps creep over 100 C, even with the 3rd radiator, so I decided to do the radiator mod. Still waiting on the relay for the toggle switch, but with that I guess the temps should stay in the safer sub 100C range.

Let's see if the next step needed is the LN thermostat.

Joost

Jim.

I finally got to install your mod for the radiator fans. Pretty easy to wiggle the wires onto pin #85 on the relays...

I got the footwell light toggle switch (996 613 980 00) to control on/off for the fans, but am at a loss now, as this switch only keeps the fans running while you keep the switch depressed. Did I get the wrong switch?

Is there a trick to wire it differently (I used the two horizontal and vertical fins in the middle of the switch) or should I get a different toggle switch?

Joost

Does the offer still stand?

Joost

Congrats on the 3.6. Keep us updated on your swap progress and any issues you encounter. Are you using Rook or some other service to do the swap and programming?

I'm using Roock. We have got to know eachother quite well with all of this engine hunting nonsense. He gives a one year warranty on the parts and labor of the conversion. Hopefully there will be no "issues". I've had enough "issues" to last me quite some time :lol:

I'll keep you updated

Does anyone know the approx. shipping weight of a 996 engine?

Joost

I decided to replace my belt yesterday on my '03 Boxster. This was my first time lifting the lid so I snapped a picture of what I found. There appears to be a little bit of oily mess on the top as you see in the picture. Is this normal for a car with 67k on the clock? How should I go about cleaning this and fixing the problem. Would there be any negative effects if I hit the engine with a degreaser and a hose? Judging by the way this looks I have a feeling that cleaning the throttle body is also in order.

The engine itself is treated/coated to prevent corrosion of the aluminium (sic - British spelling) and shouldn't be cleaned if I remember correctly; might be a good idea to inspect inside the tube from the AOS (air/oil separator) where it joins the air intake system and check for oil deposits, the oily marks could be an AOS failing

There's an easy check for a failing Air/Oil Separator: try removing the oil filler cap with the engine running. If the AOS is bad, the vaccum is so strong that it will make removal very difficult if not impossible...

Joost

Sherwin Williams sells xylene by the 5 gal. pales. When gas was $4 / gal, I remember shelling out well over $10/gal for that stuff. With chemicals in the dolldrums nowadays (I sell them for a living) I figure prices should be much better.

FYI: Xylene has an octane rating of 117, so 1:12 ratio gives you a 2 point increase over 91 octane pump gas.

Attached is my blend values calc sheet. This allows you to see how much you're getting ripped of by buying race gas instead of toluene / xylene.

Toluene_Blend_Values.zip

Joost

+1 for realigning the gearbox with the engine block. What a PITA, even when both engine and tranny are out and you can wiggle both (with a little help from your buddies).

In the end, we inserted the tranny input shaft into the clutch, turned the flywheel a couple of notches until we were sure everything was aligned properly and then slowly tightened all the bolts until all was closed up nice and tidy.

Joost

This seems to make sense:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Loren; if I am correct the engine's DME only records revs above 7,200, right? How could a warranty claim be denied because you ran it hard (without over-revving), while no record of "hard driving" exists?

Joost