flyingpenguin

This could post in the 986, 996, 987 or 997 forum, but as I am rebuilding a '99 Boxster engine, this is where it'll go!

When checking the valve lifters one by one, some "compress" and some don't.

By "compress" I mean that the "nipple" at the bottom of the valvelifter (by my index finger in pic below) is easily compressed.

Question: Is a good (=reusable) valve lifter "compressable"? Or exactly the opposite; the nipple does not go in?

Upfront apologies for the graphic language...

Joost

A few months ago I got lucky and picked up two non running Boxster engines for little money. One M96.21 (2.7 L) with a failed IMS and piston / valve collision. The other 2.5 had a dropped sleeve that had resulted in a shattered piston on #1.

In order to be able to "mix-and-match" remaining good parts I am trying to figure out (beyond part numbers from PET) what the real differences are in terms of basic internals between these two engines.

From comparing / measuring, I believe the following parts are identical:

- Case halves

- Heads with valves and valve covers

- Connecting rods and bearings, wrist pins etc.

- IMS to exhaust cam chains

- Chain guides, tensioners etc.

Slightly different (but interchangable) are:

- Crank carrier; the main bearings are mirror images 2.5 vs. 2.7, but offsets and angles are the same. Also the 2.7 has a different design for the chain that runs from crank to IMS shaft; gear vs. double row of teeth.

- IMS shaft, for the same reason as the cranks are different.

So AFAIK, the only real difference is in the pistons.

Kind of important to have this reconfirmed before mixing-and-matching parts...

The forum's input would be very welcome.

Joost

This what Magnaflow's website comes up with. Even though it states for 2002 plus models only, there is no difference (at least on the outside of the cats) between Mk1 and 2.

My idea is to get these and go to a muffler shop and have them fitted. Probably better to use flanges instead of "hard welding".

Anyone has done this before? Motivation is mainly monetary, as the aftermarket cats are significantly cheaper than OEM or Fabspeed.

Joost

---------------------------

Available parts for:

PORSCHE 911

49-State (USA) & Canada Catalog

Application Search Results.

(The 49-State (USA) & Canada catalog application search applies to all states other then California.)

NOTE: D/S= Driver Side | P/S= Passenger Side

Year Description Product Type Standard/HM Part# OEM Grade Part#

2002 6 3.6L; D/S; Carrera 4 DIRECT FIT CATALYTIC CONVERTER 24750 49933

2002 6 3.6L; P/S; Carrera 4 DIRECT FIT CATALYTIC CONVERTER 24751 49934

Please Note (Per Federal Standards): If you're in California and you have a California Registered vehicle you must search our California Catalog. If your vehicle is registered outside of California please search our 49-State (USA) & Canada Catalog.

Some converter applications may require the re-use or replacement of OEM gaskets.

NOTE: D/S= Driver Side | P/S= Passenger Side

< < BACK

CDR 220 / BE 4462 / Serial X5036666

Had a clunking noise coming from what seemed to be the right rear of the car. Initially thought it was the trailing arms. Switched them out (left to right and vice versa), but no relief.

On to motor mount and tranny mounts. Tranny mounts were in exceptional state, considering they must have had 135k on them.

This is what the motor mount looks like.

Glad it fixed the clunking problem.

It should.

The mounting on the chassis changed in MY2001 but that is a (approx) $57 part.

As always: RTFM! I could have figured this out by just looking at the PET.

- The vertical carrier changed in 2001 (996 375 039 xx)

- The horizontal part changed in 2002 (996 375 031 xx)

Conclusion: Basically all MkI and MkII trannies on fleabay will work. Worst case scenario, I'll have to change our the carrier.

Thanks Loren! Your insight is appreciated as usual.

JP

C2 uses 96/00 and 96/01

C4 uses 96/30

Thanks Loren.

In my case I am interested in form-factor. Does the 96/01 fit a 2000 996 C2 with original 3.4L engine?

JP

I am looking for a replacement transmission while I am tackling the rebuild on my 6-speed on the 2000 996.

There is plenty on offer on fleabay, but am concerned about compatibility between the years. I hear of short and long nose.

Any comments are appreciated.

JP

So the part that is creating the problem is the front airbag accelaration sensor. I bet it's just a loose connector.

Does anyone know where this part (997-618-223-00 or superceded to 02) is located. By the front airbag or behind the bumper?

JP

Installed a similar new top and I am sure a messed up routing the cable from the b-pillar to the spring rivited to the aluminum plate. This is the result:

driver side:

passenger side:

Any ideas?

JP

Does anyone on here have any knowledge of these tops? (link below)

Including quality and how hard they are to install, if you have done one yourself.

Thanks, Randy

http://www.autotopsd...-07-box-018.htm

I have a 996 convertible hard top for sale that came off a 99 C2. It's arctic

silver and is in pretty good nick. A few minor blemishes.

I see they sell for $1,000 to 1,500 on Ebay (excl. shipping), so if you're in

Houston and can pick up locally my asking price of $800 is a steal.

Joost

832-419-4655

Yes, but make sure the tube is protruding through the opening first.

Sometime folks bump it when doing stereo work or even cleaning.

Thanks Loren,

After posting I checked underneath the car and there was a small puddle of water.... At least some water is coming out. Will get underneath the car tomorrow and blow out the drain line.

JP

We have had no rain for a while in Houston, and today driving with the top down and A/C on in my 1999 Boxster, I suddenly felt cold water splashing onto my right foot while making a right turn.

I am quite sure this is A/C condensate and wonder why it's not draining out. I believe there is a drain pipe pretty much underneath there. Would it make sense jacking up the car and blow it out with compressed air?

Edit: I DID check underneath the car and there was a small puddle of water, most likely from the A/C drain.

JP

While on track this weekend the left side indicator unclipped and eventually blew off, taking the connector with it, leaving me with abare wire. A buddy has a yellow spare left that I can get (PCA buddies rock!) but still need a connector to solder back onto the wires.

Can someone help with a part# ?

Thanks, Joost

Check the two (2) circled items in the photo below.

Checked routing of the throttle cable, and it is identical to the picture provided (Thanks kbrandsma!).

What appears to be a adjustment screw in your picture above, is actually not, unless I am really missing something obvious here.

Where to look for next?

Joost

<br />I am having the same issue with my 1999 Boxster. Ordered (thanks Jeff@Sunset!) the Air Change Over Valve and Electric Change Over Valve (numbers 2 and 3) and plan the install next weekend.<br /><br />I already had the old parts out once for a bench test / cleaning (to no avail obviously), and I did not remove the intake manifold on top. Both valves are accessible when you remove the panel behind the seats (from the passenger compartment) as well as the alternator.<br /><br />Before going in, I would check vaccuum canister and all lines first.<br /><br />JP<br />

Turned out it was a bunch of brittle vacuum lines. Before buying any parts I'd replaxe the vacuum lines first. Now I have a perfectly good set of change over valves added to my misc. parts bin...

Joost

The throttle cable attaching to the throttle body on my '99 Boxster seems to have quite a bit of slack.

macster commented a while back, but could not find anything conclusive.

I checked the gas pedal assembly and around the throttle body itself but did not find anything that allows for adjustment.

Ideas are welcome!

JP

Can anybody tell me the correct M-designation for these screws?

These bolts are used to attach the B-pillar gasket set to the convertible roof frame. From the PET catalog they are designated as M6x20 bolts, but that does not tell me how long they are.

Help is much appreciated as I need to redo the top install and I recall that on a few of them, the head had started to strip from the last time I was in there.

JP

.......... And it actually easier to work on than the Boxster (AOS excluded.

AOS and spark plugs are easier to work on in a 986 than a 996..

I started the other way around. Got a 2000 C2 996 four years ago which has now morphed into a dedicated track car. Didn't like the gas mileage for my 90 mile daily commute in the Cayenne S, so got me a 1999 Boxster 2.5 a few months back. It was in pretty rough shape, except for the interior. After a lot of R&R (IMS upgrade, RMS, general tune-up and cleaning, new top, new windshield etc. etc. etc. etc) I am enjoying the little Box' as a fabulous daily driver.

My neighbors are teasing me now that if I add one more P-car, I should start a dealership.

Here are a couple of pics:

Quick update:

Have used parts for anyone interested. We bench tested them (both the air change over valve and the electric change over valve) after replacing with the new parts, but to be honest, I think the problem got solved by replacing most vacuum lines with a slightly thicker version than what was on there originally. This must have stopped the minute vacuum leaks and all is well.

Passed inspection this am!

JP

On my '00 996 C2 I have been getting repeated P1130 and P1133 codes. Also the RKAT on the same bank (2) is close -4 (just within range), while RKAT on the other bank (1) is close to 0. Already changed the MAF (tested with Durametric and voltage changes with RPM's) and searched for vacuum leaks with propane. Also, disconnecting a vacuum hose after a good hour after turning the engine off, gives a good swoosh, indicating that the system is holding the vacuum OK.

I am at a loss....

Joost

Did you clear the codes and they came back?

If not, then codes remain pending until enough drive cycles have occurred without a fault to clear them.

Thanks Loren!

I did not clear any codes, the CEL disappeared, but the codes remained in memory.

Cleared the codes and will go thru the drive cycle and see if they come back. If I am lucky the SAI problem resolved itself.

Will revert, and ma have some parts for sale. ;-)

Joost

Have been getting a CEL for P0410 / 1411 (Secondary Air Injection) and ordered a new air change over valve and electric change over valve, as previous diagnosis confirmed no other issues with the vacuum lines.

Imagine my surprise when I drove off this am, and the CEL did not light up. CEL lamp is functional, so just to make sure I hooked up the Durametric, hoping to see the P codes had disappeared.

That not being the case, I am wondering why engine management no longer shows the CEL while the codes persist in memory.

Any comments are welcome.

Joost

I am having the same issue with my 1999 Boxster. Ordered (thanks Jeff@Sunset!) the Air Change Over Valve and Electric Change Over Valve (numbers 2 and 3) and plan the install next weekend.

I already had the old parts out once for a bench test / cleaning (to no avail obviously), and I did not remove the intake manifold on top. Both valves are accessible when you remove the panel behind the seats (from the passenger compartment) as well as the alternator.

Before going in, I would check vaccuum canister and all lines first.

JP

topic says it all

Looking for Boxster shop in South Houston area

Mike

Here's a few good Houston shops:

- www.eurocarwerk.com

- The Swiss Garage 3520 W. Alabama St., Houston, TX 77027, (713) 626-9320

- www.casaris.com

- European Auto Techniks, 1200 Spears Rd Ste 204, Houston, TX. Phone: 281-873-5111

- Koby Motors, 8623 Windswept Houston, TX 77063