flyingpenguin

topic says it all

Looking for Boxster shop in South Houston area

Mike

Mike, I thought you did all your work yourself.. Anything in particular you need checking out?

Joost

That is great! I hope that is it, as it will be a quick repair and you will not have to wait for Christmas for a new tranny to arrive from Germany!

I attached a picture of what the linkage on an 02 Boxster looks like for your reference.

DC

I did the RMS / IMS last week and with the tranny out gave it a thorough cleaning. While rolling it over I must have bent the L shaped bracket (#18 in the diagram). A gentle tug with a tire iron put it back into its place and all is good now.

JP

I recently picked up a 1999 Boxster 2.5 with 110K on the odo. It had a few fault codes but with a new oil filler tube they all disappeared and the engine runs strong and the car is a hoot to drive (and that's coming from a guy used to quite a bit more HP's) :clapping:

Today we pulled the tranny to take a look at clutch, RMS and IMS.

RMS has a slight leak and will be replaced. Will pull IMS flange to see if the bearing is in good shape. Looking at Jake Raby's stuff, I tried to correctly identify this engine but am a bit at a loss here. The number is (yes I verified) M962065X03247. I found a list of Boxster engine numbers on an Ausi forum (see below), and believe it should match (being a 1999) up with the M96/22 65X denomination.

So whence the difference of M96/20 65X vs. the M96/22 65X?

Joost

Boxster Engine No's

MODEL MY ENGINE NUMBER Boxster 1997 M96/22 65V 00501> Boxster 1998 M96/22 65W 00501> Boxster 1999 M96/22 65X 00501> Boxster 2000 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ 2000 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster 2001 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ 2001 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY02 2001 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ MY02 2001 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY02 2002 M96/22 65Y00000> Boxster ‘S’ MY02 2002 M96/21 67Y00000> Boxster MY03 2002 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY03 2002 M96/24 67300000> Boxster MY03 2003 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY03 2003 M96/24 67300000> Boxster MY04 2004 M96/23 65300000> Boxster ‘S’ MY04 2004 M96/24 67300000> Boxster (987) 2005 M96/25 62500000> Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2005 M96/26 62500000> Boxster (987) 2006 M96/25625 Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2006 M96/25625 Boxster (987) 2007 M97/2065X Boxster ‘S’ (987) 2007 M97/21625

Hi,

New to me 1999 Boxster with CDR 220, PO did not have radio code.

Type: 4462

Ser: Y5048887

Your help is much appreciated.

Joost

Try 9657 ...........

WOW, that was quick. And yess.. it worked.

Thanks!

JP

Hi,

New to me 1999 Boxster with CDR 220, PO did not have radio code.

Type: 4462

Ser: Y5048887

Your help is much appreciated.

Joost

Same problem here. P1130 only, which keeps coming back even after initially cleaning and subsequently replacing the MAF with a new OEM one.

As a bad MAF should affect both sides (not just bank 2), one could argue that it the issue is caused by one of the remaining 3 potential causes (Fuel pressure too high, Fuel injector leaking, EVAP canister purge valve open).

I guess it's time to start checking the fuel injectors and fuel delivery / pressure. Any tips on DIY'ing this?

JP

I have a 2004 996 C4S and I put in Fab speed 996 Sport Catalytic Converter X-Pipe and now the acceleration is not as brisk as it could be till it reaches 3500 rpms and then it kits in and is very fast. What would cause this? There are no faults in the computer.

I know if I put the factory cats on the problem will go away but the performance wont br there.

Further to this.

I was told by Fab Speed that if I have the ECU recalibrated that it would solve this problem. Anyone have any experience with is ??

Can U recalibrate to balance the air pressure?

Thanks

Fab Speed's advise is sound. The mods resulted in reduced back pressure which affects torque, which is especially noticable at lower rpm's.

I did not go the Fab Speed route (just cobbled some parts together at intake and exhaust), and experienced a similar problem. This was fixed with Scot Slauson's Softronic tuning solution. They do a good job customizing the ECU mappings to your needs.

www.softronic.us (no affiliation).

JP

hi, just to share my last mods, b/kit & new wheels, have a nice day!

Ouch... I am allergic to Toyota's, especially Camry's. Can you Photoshop that away?

The body kit is really cool though. ;-)

JP

I agree with Loren that the RMS DIY provides nearly all the instruction you'll need. He also gives excellent torque recommendations - follow them. I just completed a clutch/throw-out bearing replacement on a '99 996 C2. Unfortunately, I didn't photograph every step. It wasn't that difficult IMHO, but I have many years of auto mechanics experience. I did it with the car on floor jacks, only 14" of clearance, in 5 degree MN weather and no fancy equipment. BUT, one big word of caution...be very, very patient. If this is your daily driver...forget it. You'll never get it done in a weekend if this is your first 911 clutch replacement.

Some of the bolts are extremely difficult to remove. Especially, the top bolt of the flywheel housing. The clearances are extremely tight unless you drop the engine/tranny. I had to cut a box end wrench in half to tackle the job. Also, I recommend shorty ratchets (about 3") to finish the job. Once you get the bolts off an average physically fit guy can manhandle the tranny out of it's tight cradle. At this point removing the clutch is super simple...provided you have the right tools. Check out the old clutch vs new...after 80k miles it was very worn. If you've gone this far you might as well change the rear main seal too. Again, it's not difficult if you're patient.

Since you have the tranny out this is the perfect time to change the fluid. Just do it! I found installing the tranny was a bit more difficult than removing it. After all, you're fighting the forces of gravity. But, I did it myself with just a good floor jack. Once installed reconnect the shift linkages, electrical connections, etc. I noticed quite a few posts about bleeding the hydraulic clutch. Again, it's no biggie IF you get the right tools. I use a 3 ft tall super sucker vacuum pump. Had no problems at all.

In summary, this isn't that difficult of a job if you have above average mechanical skills. Make sure you have all the right tools, especially a good torque wrench and tight space ratchets/box end wrenches. Good luck!

I did one a few months ago and my buddy Marco brought a bunch of extensions to go in from the top to get to that nasty top bolt. Another recommendation; Keep track of the sequence when you take out the bell housing bolts so you don't have to guess which one goes where when you put everything back together.

A tranny jack also makes the manhandling a little less excruciating.

JP

Before you go to the trouble of replacing the fuel pump - check the fuel pressure and the delivered volume.

Nominal test pressure values:

Stationary engine: 3.8 +- 0.2 bar

Engine idling: 3.3 +- 0.2 bar

fuel delivered volume:

Quantity supplied must be at least 850 cm³/30 sec

i.e. after 30 seconds at least 850 cm³ fuel must be present in the measuring container.

Would this tool work to establish fuel pressure / delivery qty.?

http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Pressure-KAL2530-Kal-Equip/dp/B00063V2VC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1272052886&sr=1-4

JP

.................. I hope this is of interest.

http://abcnews.go.co...ndex?id=4826897

Sad but very interesting story. Moral of the story; make sure you really buy NEW tires and drive the hell out of them, leaving little chance there's any tread left after a couple of years.

JP

My last pair of Bridgestones lasted just over 16k miles... I was surprised because I always drive it like it's stolen.

I think anywhere from 12-15k is to be expected.

If it is worse than that you likely have an alignment issue, or just too aggressive an alignment.

How is the wear pattern on yours? Insides of my rear tires tend to go much quicker than the outsides.

Most full service tire shops will flip them on the rim for free if you bought your tires from that outfit in the first place. If you keep a regular eye on the inside tire wear, you will likely extend the life of any tire by a significant amount.

Even if you pay $15-20 per tire for remounting / flipping you win.

JP

You should upgrade to LN Engineering Intermediate shaft bearing and replace RMS.

+1

Depends on what year the engine was built though. I have a replacement 3.4 in my 2000 996 with 50K hard miles on it now, and still debating whether I should do the IMS bearing upgrade next time the tranny or engine is out.

JP

Thanks for an answer RFM. If these little panels or spoilers create a vacuum to help exhaust the hot air then would adding vents or holes disrupt this? Not having other manuals than my 996 do the models that have venting in the wheel well exclude these bottom holes or they completely different? How many 996's have you seen with those little spoilers dangling from one end? I have one on order myself. Sounds like they are more important than I realized. After reading many threads on many sites it seems that 996's naturally run a little warm. I don't believe I have a cooling problem but facing my first 110 degree summer with this car in Central California I don't want to be caught with my pants down. If I understand the theory the key factors that I'm looking at are surface area(third radiator) and air flow for heat exchange. I plan on adding a third radiator for peace of mind as this makes sense to me. The other is air flow and I was interested if anyone had any input on that. I don't feel like butchering my wheel wells but wanted to know if there were updated Porsche or DIY alternatives and if they help and how much. Thanks again, Robert.

I have the 3rd radiator installed on my 2000 C2, and even so in stop & go traffic in Houston , TX I see coolant temps around 100 C with ambient around 80 F (25 C).

Increased airflow is the only solution and what works quite well is to engage the A/C and not pull a lot of cold air from it (inside the car) by running the fan at max two notches. There is also a stage 2 fan mod out there, but this works just as well because it throws your radiator fans into high gear.

JP

I took my car in to have my summers installed and was advised to have an alignment as there was edge wear on my winters. When I collected it, the car pulled (horribly) to the left. The dealership told me that the machine needed to be recalibrated, and they then carried out an alignment on my car. It was still pulling to the right (less so) but when corrected pulled left, although the printout showed it was perfectly aligned. The tech. adjusted the alignment after we both drove the car, and it seemed ok. However, after driving it for a day or two, found it pulling slightly both left and right. I have arranged to return tomorrow, please can anyone offer any advice? there has been no impact, and the dealership agrees the problem arose when they first tried to align the steering. Any feedback is much appreciated. thanks.

Pulling to the left AND right sound like it's wandering, IMO a result of too little toe-in. Neutral toe or toe out usually cause this.

Also be aware that the crown on many roads tends to push the car a little bit to the shoulder (in RHD countries that would be to the right), so best to check steering behavior on a level road without any crown to it.

If you are coming to the conclusion that whoever did your alignment is not qualified, and you want to take a shot at it yourself, check out these posts:

http://www.planet-9....adjustment.html

and

http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/service-items/p230-downhome-toe-measurement-and-adjustment.html

JP

The classic method of locating a hard to find air (vacuum) leak is by using a canister of combustible gas (propane or butane will do). In a well ventilated area, attach a short hose to the canister and turn it on low (you just want a small bleed of gas, not a torrent). With the car running, run the hose end around the vacuum connections one by one; when you find a "leaker" the idle will suddenly jump as the result of sucking in more fuel……………..

Sounds pretty f*&^$ng ingenious!

I am getting a P1130, which indicates a possible vacuum leak on bank 2 (Cyl 4-6) only. If I recall correctly, on a 996, that is the passenger side, right?

Would be handy to knwo for sure before I get out my propane torch and start blowing gas around in the engine bay.

JP

I believe the reason for differences in grades of oil is primarily for people who start the car and take off. I believe in letting an engine warm up before applying revs to it. I've always done that with my gsxr1000 and plan to do it with my carrera. The gsxr does twice the revs and hp to weight ratio would be like a 1,500hp engine in the porshe. When the oil is cold it is thicker than hot so it will give higher preasures on the engine gaskets. Hawaii's Porsche dealership dictates 15w50 synthetic and I would be inclined to use the same in cold but always make sure the engine is warmed up before going into higher revs.

The manual states with a warmed up engine at 5k rpms you should be reading approx 3.5 on the preasure gauge.

I just had the dealer sheck out the car today and change the oil to the 15w50 synthetic and the once looking low preasures are looking great now. I had the same problem you refer to before I got what porsch's guys recommend. Go for the max protection. Funny thing is with synthetics if you have been running a blend or non synthetic oils you'll even end up with a higher rpm due to the extra smooth lubing the oil does. Seen it with bikes before when guys change over to synthetic and now after getting the previous owners choice out of the sump the car got a higher idle too.

FWIW:

I am using M1 15W50 and get a tad over 4 bar at revs over 3,500 rpm when engine fully warm (90-95C on the coolant readout) and 1.5 bar at idle.

I live in Houston where ambient temps rarely drop below 50F..

JP

Remember the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Lots of these gearboxes go for many more miles than yours has on it. Is there a specific issue or problem that you have with yours that would make you consider a rebuild?

My pinion bearing might be on its way out...

JP

With 80K miles on my original box, I figure this would be a good project to prepare for.

Has anyone done a rebuild in their home garage?

I am aware of the need of some special tools (heavy press / pullers), but was thinking of doing as much of the work / preparations myself, before resorting to a specialist for the difficult stuff.

Your thoughts are much appreciated.

JP

I would do the test over again with OEM rims equipped with Porsche approved tyres, it can save you money and time.

While I don't disagree, I've got 10,000km on that set up with great handling, yet recently it started doing this odd behaviour.

The tires could be crap and are now losing traction, however, they have good tread and roads were dry.

Maybe an alignment issue?

JP

anyone know how difficult this one would be to remove? I like the looks of the car but imho the tail is super ugly. i would want to replace with a grill. wheels aren't my fav either but i know how the fix that.

I'll swap yours with mine. 2000 C2. Silver though...

Joost

Which I did and had the car towed approx 300 miles. The tech there told me it looks like they tampered with my car once they figured out I was not gonna service my car there.

Maybe some pictures of the items that were tampered for this group to comment, could yield leverage towards PCNA.

JP

After a long search in the PET I found the part: 955-559-547-00 Moulding Clip.

I ordered a full set of 16 from Worldimpex for $0.54 a piece.

http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/porsche-mo...ip_2511805.html

Joost

On both sides, the ABS trim piece underneath the front doors is loose. I removed the one on the passenger side and it is (no: was) attached with 4 white nylon rivet type pieces that attach the the body to which the molding piece then clicks onto.

A google search related to the actual trim piece (7L0 835 538 (also used on the Touareg / Q7?) did not result in anything useful so I am hoping anyone can chime in. I need 8 new nylon pieces to properly attach the trim / molding again.

JP

You can try LA Dismantlers or Oklahoma Foriegn

Thanks for the suggestion. Contacted them both and neither have the parts I need.

Any other suggestions are welcome.

JP