flyingpenguin

Thanks for your help anyway.

I think he'll have to take it to the Porsche Center in Budapest and have it diagnosed. Although he's afraid of the final bill, as last time the car was there they changed the fuel pump and it cost him 2500€ :o

Sound like it's time to order the Durametric with overnight shipping to RO. This will probably cost you 1/10th of 2500€...

JP

There are girls that DO get it though...

http://www.funnyordie.com/videos/86ba3fa84...rcial-from-mike

Haven't gotten mine to reciprocate in a similar fashion (yet).

JP

I am missing two small knobs on my 04 Cayenne S. One is the lumbar support adjustment knob for the passenger side, the other the handle to lift up the roll-out screen for the rear passenger side door / window.

Pics attached:

These two knobs are not sold separately, and spending over $500 for the whole unit they are atatched to seems a little exagerated.

Any suggestions where I could look for used parts would be welcome.

JP

Part numbers are funny - sometimes they change because of a design change and sometimes they change because Porsche's vendor changes. That is why I say maybe Jeff knows.

Kind of like MB part numbers, too. I've sent Jeff an email. Thanks Loren!

IF they work I am sure you will like them. Much better bite and less dust vs. stock. I have them on my 04 Cayenne S.

JP

What about this, I had to think what all happened...The idle control valve wouldn't come off the throttle body,I never removed it or cleaned inside of it. I removed the 2 screws and it wouldn't release and I didn't want to force it, if I pull on it, should it just release or do I have to put the butterfly in a certain position, and I also didn't spray any cleaner in the other electricial part that had the green gasket, I will try that and see what happens. I can remove everything in 15 minutes after doing it twice....Does not cleaning the idle control valve sound like the issue. I hate to pay a shop to fix this because I know it has to be something simple and they will charge who knows how much.

Can you be more specific as to the parts that you are describing. Maybe the PET (page 67 in particular) can be of help here.

http://login.dealerskins.com/SiteSpecific/...USA_KATALOG.PDF

JP

Assuming the two oils to be mixed meet standards, mixing oils initself is not "unsafe". I doubt whether adding 2 qts will do anything significant. Roughly speaking you would end up with a 3.5W 42. Not much of an improvement.

I would do a complete oil change.

If you are in the colder part of the US, I would recommend you use the 5W50 instead of the 15W50 for the winter months. I am in Texas and only drive the car when its not too cold (ie. over 50F).

JP

Yesterday I replaced the serpentine belt and for better access removed the intake plenum and tubes between airfilters and plenum. After I thought I had put everything back together correctly I started the engine. I died right away. Turned out that I forgot the reconnect the electrical connector to the throttle body. After correcting the issue I started the engine again and it ran very rough. Turns out I put back one MAF sensor tube the wrong way. Corrected that and it still ran very rough.

Connected the Durametric cable and 5 to 10 fault codes showed up in memory. Cleared them all, restarted the engine and runs like charm again.

Moral of the story:

-Don't run the engine until you are 120% positive all is installed correctly.

-Even though everything is properly installed (mechanically) a bunch of faultcodes in memory will prevent the engine from running properly.

-Durametric rocks!

JP

This sounds like the hydraulic valve lifters tapping due to oil starvation. I had this happen on my 2000 996 (3.4L) at our first Performance Driving School with LSR PCA back in October of 2008, doing righthanders on the wet skidpad. I replaced the oilpan with the X51 version and have not seen this happen again. At the same time I also switched to M1 15W50, so cannot say for sure which had the most effect remedying the issue.

In any case the two changes significantly reduced the drop in oil pressure during fast and prolonged righthanders at Texas World Speedway (eg. turn 2 / 1 going clockwise).

I would start with a thicker oil before modding the oilpan.

JP

I too have to change the supports and found this description very helpful. But where to get Klebt und Dichtet? Can you please tell?

I think any sticky silicone type goo (Permatex?) should work just fine. As long as you have a good seal to prevent water from leaking in.

JP

Just did mine on the 2004 S. Partnumber I got from Porsche of North Houston was 955 512 550 06. While I had all the trim pieces out I gave them a good cleaning. What a difference! The hatch opens so much better and the clean trim make it all look showroom new!

JP

I looked under the driver seat today as my battery is on its way out (after 5 years I am OK with that).

Part# on the battery in there is 3D0915105G. A quick google resulted in this VARTA bulletin http://www.partnernet.varta-automotive.com...che_Cayenne.pdf with these exact dimensions (LxWxH: 353x175x190).

Rayovac makes a battery, the SLI93T8, with these dimensions (LxWxH): 354x175x175, so a little lower.

Capacity and CCA (cold cranking amps) are similar, so looking at pricing around $129, this looks like a better deal than an original Porsche battery.

Any thoughts?

JP

When I changed out the stock suspension for coil-overs on my 996, I remember the fronts came off with out a hitch. I only needed spring compressors for the rears.

Not sure how similar 996 and 997 front suspension is though..

JP

Umm... I think it is the other way around - the rears are simple and rarely require a spring compressor.

Maybe it was the Texas heat that affected the metal. Or maybe it just affected my brain and my recollection is incorrect. <_<

In any case, spring compressors at your FAPS are cheap enough to prevent one from buying them.. :D

Joost

Snake oil :D

Agree. After running the K&N filters for a year, with regular cleaning, I recently had my oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs and they came back with elevated silica (ie. sand!). Needless to say I am running stock filters again.

JP

When I changed out the stock suspension for coil-overs on my 996, I remember the fronts came off with out a hitch. I only needed spring compressors for the rears.

Not sure how similar 996 and 997 front suspension is though..

JP

Fitment is one thing, but would there be a difference in filter performance between the different part#'s mentioned above?

JP

My climate control unit on my 04 996 with navigation works fine except the temp display is garbled on the climate control unit. Porsche says must replace unit for 500.00. Anyone know if there is another fix? thanks, Scott

These guys fix it for $99. Should work on a 996 as well. (I have no affiliation)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...sQ5fAccessories

Good luck.

JP

I did not get the clutch changed yet. I store my car in the winter due to all the salt on the roads in our area. I figured it was best to park it a few weeks early and deal with the clutch in the spring. It is good to know the newer seals may last longer.

I used to own a Nissan 300Z years ago that I changed the clutch on but I only had to drop the transmission. Based on everything I have read, you need to remove the engine on the 996 to change the clutch - is this accurate? Both flyingpenguin and kristian above talk about handling the transmission but no one talks about the engine?

The only thing holding me back is the thought of dropping the engine; otherwise it would have been done by now...

Re-attaching the tranny after all the work is done is easier with the engine out, but if you have no compelling reason to drop the engine for other work you need to do, you best leave the engine in. A transmission jack is your best friend though when maneuvering underneath the car.

JP

A nice surprise. The dealer is telling me that this particular failure isn't covered by the CPO warranty. I'll ask them to show me when I'm there picking it up but I'll be ordering parts tonight.

EDIT: I called back asking them to make sure this isn't covered under warranty. After a few minutes on hold they said it was. Apparently the CPO warranty for anything bought after August 2008 is bumper-to-bumper. I think the service writer thought I had bought it earlier than that cut off. So mine's under the knife, free of charge. :)

Yippie!! It happened to me today. Have CPO until Aug 2010 and was hoping the pipes would crack before it ran out. Flatbedded my 04 CS to Porsche of North Houston and they took care of it free of charge within a few hours. They said it was their 2nd this week....

You gotta love CPO!

JP

One of the best car shows around! U can usually find the new episodes for download as they come out!

www.finalgear.com is THE place to look for downloading the British car shows. Fifth Gear is another brilliant show.

JP

Hi,

I bought my 1999 Carrera 4 convertible at 44000 miles currently 65000 miles. It did not have any service records, but I had to have it.

I've done all the repairs by myself except the clutch that I needed help with to put back on. I haven't bought any special tools or I have never taken it to a shop. Except for the new top and wheel change. I haven't worked on cars before at all and I've done all the work with the DIY instructions on this site. I've only bought a under plastic panel from a dealer,because they had a sale and it was the best deal available. I buy all my parts at Ebay, Pelicanparts, Sunset Imports or Autozone.

I even got a core return on my alternator on Autozone, so it ended up costing me $160. I also got my wheels 265/35R18 Bridgestone Potenza RE750 for $200 a piece from Samsclub with special order...

This is all the work I have done on my car so far in two and a half years. The car is a daily driver

Tires

New top with glass window

clutch

flywheel

RMS seal

starter

alternator

battery

reverse switch

spark plugs

coil packs

evaporation tank

water pump

three pulleys

belt

All parts were very reasonable in price and mostly easy to do yourself. The only thing I have to do in the near future is the brake pads, which should be pretty cheap and easy to do too...

This is a big list of parts, but if you shop around and do it yourself, it's not that bad at all.

Kristian

This story very much sounds like mine.

I got my 2000 996 C2 after a thorough PPI (based on the 996 buyer's guide you can find on the web) and have done most work myself.

In the end it is all about (preceived) risk and how you deal with it. With experience and confidence that you are able to deal with most or all of the potential trouble that this car can throw at you, the financial downside of a mishap decreases. On the flipside I have a fantastic car that puts a grin on my face everytime I drive it hard (on or off track). In the past I changed cars every 1.5-2 years. Going on alsmost 3 years, this one won't be replaced anytime soon. I am just making it better!

JP

It looks like I will be giving the Redline 75W90 NS GL-5 a try.

FWIW, I used that in my Boxster and it made the shifting much more notchy. I had spoken to Redline on the phone twice to clarify that this was what they recommended. I replaced it with the factory fluid and the shifting was good again.

Well, the car is booked in to my local independent in two weeks time and I will be trying the Redline. I will let you all know how I got on.

I am using the Redline Heavy Shockproof. No shifting issues when cold, and supposedly much better protection than regular gear oil.

I have been using this for over 30K miles now with at least 5K on track and the gear box is holding out very well.

JP

I have a 2004 Carrera 2 which I bought about 3 weeks ago, it has 40K miles on the clock and drives beutifully however, as I was just idly washing the car this last weekend and I noticed that the front drivers side wheel has a crack at the base of the spoke. Wheels are Porshe OEM 5 spoke 18"x 8 front and 18" x 10 rear.

To be fair upon closer inspection it looks like this rim has been "kerbed" at some point in its life. The spoke next to the one shown also has a hairline crack, as does the one of the spokes on the drivers side rear, these are small and my phone camera doesn't have the resolution to capture them.

Has anyone else experienced this? Is it a common fault on Texas rough roads?

Repair or replace?

If it's not just the paint that's cracked, I would replace them. Any recourse with the seller?

There are great deals to be had on aftermarket rims these days. Check the adds in Panorama.

Good luck.

JP

I'm thinking of buying one like this Black & Decker model to keep in my garage (to use when the battery on my 996 goes dead because I neglected to plug in my battery maintainer):

http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide...ProductID=15582

Do these things work when you need them?

I have one, and bought it upon recommendation of several friends that had them. Very happy with it. Also a good one to have around in the car after an extended park (eg. at the airport) without a chance to plugin a battery tender.

JP

:welcome:

You can download the 2010 Cayenne Order Guide here

Thanks a lot.

That was quick!

Looks like the 2010 Cayenne will not be the complete overhaul that sgoodin was expecting / hoping for..

Could that maybe a mid 2010 release of the 2011 model year?

JP

Anyone know how to remove the rear wiper on the cayenne

i tried all the bolts nothing happens? is there a HOW TO?

If you mean the blade insert it really is just a grab and pull removal, no tools needed. At the center of the black plastic cover there is a clip that holds the middle of the wiper blade. To install the replacement wiper blade just snap the new one back into that same clip. Use consistent pressure on both the removal and the replacement and you will be fine.

As with everything; it's quite easy once you know what you're doing. :P

Just lift up the rear wiper arm and pull the blade insert at one end until it snaps out. For a replacement I used a Duralast 15 inch one from Autozone for 7 bucks. Snap it back in and it'll work like a charm.

I hope the diagram clarifies it a little further.