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There's a fellow on 986forum.com that has designed and made commercial projectors for non-Lit Boxsters. I installed them myself (total cost less than $400), but if you don't want to get into the hassle of using the oven to break them apart, there's a guy on the forum that will do them for you. He's done a lot of them and for a reasonable price. I have to say that, short of the 98x short shifter, this is the best mod I've ever done. It makes a HUGE difference to the front of the car. I can't figure out how to post a weblink on this forum, so go to the DIY Project Guides section and look for the thread called "Porsche Headlight Retrofit (from CAD, prototyping to finish)".
I just found out about the much lower torque requirements for the LN Eng magnetic drain plug and realize I may have stripped the threads on the last oil change before winter bedtime. I could feel the torque wrench start to slip, stopped right away, but did continue putting oil in the engine. No leaks so far. But now I'm concerned the threads in the pan have been stripped, rather than the bolt. There's a pan available from an 2004 2.7. Any reason why that wouldn't fit on a 2001?
I put the original switch back in and the a/c and blower work. Good news, bad news. Good news is I know what the problem is and can now fix it. Bad news is I wasted time and money on a bad product. Stay away from this Meyle switch!
I was having the usual key insertion / removal problems, but the A/C was working fine. I bought a Meyle switch for cheap, replaced the switch, and now the A/C and blower don't work at all. And the fuses are fine. Could this be the fault of the cheap replacement switch? Are the Audi switches really better quality, or do they have them made in China too?
Right, JFP, that would be the cost if I'd ordered one with all the rest of my parts from Suncoast. With shipping etc it's a lot higher for one item, and my local stealer charges around $75... Anyways, I get the message.
Stupidest idea ever? Or no big deal? Getting the car up and down off the jackstands is a PITA. I drained the cooling system as part of some projects I'm doing. So it's on the jackstands now. But as I don't know what kind of coolant was in the car, I'm going to flush it with water, which means running the car. And then draining the system completely again before putting the final fill of 50/50 coolant in.
I'm in the process of changing my water pump, upgrading to the LN Eng low temp thermostat, upgrading to the "S" oil cooler, and replacing my motor mount. I just realized that I didn't note the direction of the serpentine belt when I pulled it off, after having read somewhere that I should put it back on the way I took it off. Is that really a big deal? Or could it come apart a lot faster? This belt only has about 15,000 km (10,000 miles) on it and still looks good.
I think I might also change out my oil cooler for the "S" model cooler at the same time. I have an '01 base.
Do a search. This subject has been covered many times here and on 986forum. I installed the stock 9x7 SHORT shifter in my '01, and love it. Many others have found the stock 9x7 standard shifter to be to their liking. The regular shifter is a lot cheaper than the short shifter. The advantage with both of them is that the entire shift tower is replaced, rather than rebuilding your existing tower. In order of shift distance, shortest to longest: Porsche / B&M short shifter for 986 35% reduction Agency Power 35% reduction Schnell 30% reduction Porsche 987/997 short shifter Part # 997-424-983-00 25% reduction Evo Swift Shift 20% reduction Porsche 987/997 standard shifter Part # 997-424-010-00 15% reduction This is also the order of notchiness, most notchy first. (except for 9x7 short shifter)
IIRC, N-rating simply means that Porsche has tested the car with the tires on it, presumably in difficult driving conditions. My pessimistic little brain tells me that there's probably also $ involved.
Did you use the standard grey duct tape? That stuff will dry out quickly and get brittle and fall apart.
Interesting. The common opinion now seems to be that if you've got the tranny out, do the clutch, RMS and IMS bearing. What's your thinking about the quasi-hysteria around the failing IMS bearing that I've been seeing for the last year?