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clickman

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Everything posted by clickman

  1. clickman
    When I installed Harvey's rear speaker kit, and got to where I had to run the wires from the spot beside the seat to up under the dash, I found it easiest to tape the speaker wires to a big stiff wire, and push that up to the area under the dash (after pulling the carpeting loose). Then I could pull the big wire, carefully, and the speaker wires came with it.
  2. clickman
    Do the porsche OEM dash cup holders work well or is the ultimate cupholder better? I had the OEMs and ripped them out (ref cupholderectomy). I'll sell them to you if you're interested. My climate control unit has a problem, and I'm sure it was as a result of spills from the cupholders above. I bought a Ultimate cupholder and am happy with it. How hard is it to move the a/c to the lowest console position? Not hard when you've got the right mounting parts and are prepared to fiddle with getting the big wire connectors down the back of the console.
  3. clickman
    why not the Raggtopp Protectant and Cleaner? you can buy them in a 2-pack for $25. plus, you don't need to mask anything off. I thought I had read somewhere - maybe a user - that even with the Raggtopp you had to mask. Does anyone have any experience with what happens with overspray on the windows and paintwork and rubber? I'd prefer to go that way if it's no problem, 'cause masking is a PITA. Norm 2001 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  4. clickman
    I bought my 2001 Boxster last November. I have no idea what sort of care the previous owner's put into the top. But it's my daily driver, so I had to make sure it was set up for the wet winter we going to get here on the west coast of Canada. (In retrospect, it was worse than I had thought!) The black top was in not too bad of a condition when I got it, other than some wear marks. When I treated the top, I cleaned it first with Porsche Wash-Shampoo and Convertible Top Cleaner. (I just use it for cleaning the top prior to waterproofing; I normally use P21S when I clean both the top and the rest of the car.) I would have used the Porsche top treatment as well, but the cost at the local Stealer was ridiculous, and I couldn't get it shipped from the US because it was aerosol, and we all know how "bombs" are treated. So I chose Renovo Ultra Proofer. I had to mask around the edges of the top (PITA, but you prob have to do that for all of the treatments), and then paint the stuff on. It was thinner than I thought it would be, leading to another PITA: at the front corners, where you can't really seal the edge with the masking, the liquid would run through and down the window. It's not supposed to be left on anything other than the top, so I had to wipe it up a number of times. I've survived the winter with no leaks and the top looks pretty good. Check out this site: http://www.carcareonline.com/howto.aspx Good luck Norm 2001 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  5. clickman
    Doesn't the new filter usually come with the foam?
  6. clickman
    We're finally starting to get some sun here on the west coast of Canada (some call it the "wet coast"). So now I'm getting the burn on the bald part, and need a good driving hat. I've done some Googling and can't find what I want: something subtle. I want either the stylized single-line Boxster-in-profile, like they have for the Cayenne, Or just "986" in the right font. Anyone know where I can get either, short of the local commercial embroiderer? thx Norm 2001 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  7. clickman
    Just finished replacing the emergency pull for the fuel filler cap locking solenoid.! What a PITA! The simplest things sometimes bite ya. I had the most trouble releasing the hoses from the canister. Squeezing the grey "buttons" on the connectors was easier said than done, especially on the smallest of the 3, since there's BARELY room to get your fingers in to any of them. :cursing: It was nice to know that once the single hold-down bolt was removed for the canister, that I could just reef on the canister to get it out. I suggest leaving the bottom rubber on the canister, and the top one in the hole in the body. Getting the two Torx screws on the locking solenoid released and tightened is also a PITA, but doable. I followed Chuck and Loren's suggestion of using a #20 bit with a small wrench, but I used the closed end, as I found it easier, once I had the bit on the screw, to keep my finger on the end of the bit and move the wrench down to the thinner end when I had to move it at the end of a rotation. Lots of dropped bits, that's for sure. If there's a ratchet out there for driver bits, it would make this job a lot easier. All because of a cheesy little plastic pull cord. All in all, it probably took me about 3 hours. As usual on a DYI, it feels good when you're done (and the car still works)! :thumbup: Norm 01 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  8. clickman
    Okeedokee...
  9. clickman
    "Cause I was at work I sent my wife to one of the local auto parts stores (with a good description and pictures), and the guy gave her one that didn't even have the right number of flutes! So into another store this weekend, and I now think I have one that works - a Plews LubriMatic #2. It seemed to fit OK when I put it on the filter. We'll see when it's time for the next change. On to the next issue ...
  10. clickman
    Only four of you have done the short shifter? Of course not... Please ... let us know how you like it! thx Norm 01 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  11. clickman
    Jeff, you keep trying so hard to find me one, but I think I'm fated to not get one. The seller won't ship to Canada because of all our red tape! thx for trying Norm
  12. clickman
    @#$%! Lost it at the last second. Back to the drawing board...
  13. clickman
    I'm bidding on it. Hope you're right that it works, Jeff! thx Norm
  14. clickman
    I'm having a tough time finding a cheap oil filter wrench. This one has the right dimensions (74mm across 14 flats) but seems to be shorter in height than the OEM unit. http://cgi.ebay.ca/Benz-BMW-Audi-Oil-Filte...1QQcmdZViewItem Anyone see any problems in using it? thx Norm 01 Boxster 2.7 5 spd
  15. clickman
    What's the Audi or VW part number for the switch? Can anyone post the link to the detailed instructions for changing the switch (that I can't find)? It included pictures and the whole 9 yards. thx Norm '01 5 spd, Seal Grey
  16. clickman
    It seems like one of the most popular hacks out there is to change out the shifter. I was keen on the idea until I talked to a friend with a 996 that said he's tried one and that, although shifting was more precise, shift effort seemed too high to feel good. I'm curious to see what the consensus is out there (if there is one!). So if you've got an aftermarket shifter, tell us which one you've got, how easy it was to install, but most importantly, how it feels in comparison to stock, and whether you like it. Norm '01, 5 Spd, Seal Grey
  17. clickman
    Waiting to see how Loren made out with Chuck's car!
  18. clickman
    Occasionally when the key is in the starting position, there's a momentary delay before the starter engages. Is this an early symptom of the dreaded ignition switch failure? thx Norm '01 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey
  19. clickman
    Chuck, I still blame Porsche. As with so many of their parts, without a lot of cost they could have made it just that much better. And for a car that costs this much ...
  20. clickman
    Way to go, Chuck, you idiot! Oh, wait, that's how I broke mine... :oops: Looking forward to the details of the fix! Take lots of pix! thx Norm PS Out of curiosity, the cable release for the hood seems to go to the same area as the fuel filler. So where does it end up? Why didn't Porsche make it more accessible?? :unsure:
  21. clickman
    Pardon my ignorance, but how exactly do you "build out the canister"? thx Norm
  22. clickman
    I managed to bust off the little plastic emergency cable for the fuel filler door release that you access from the front of the passenger door. :( (Did I say it was little? It's like no thicker than a human hair! Come on Porsche! :censored: ) Anyhow, the free version of the workshop manual I found on the net doesn't make any sense (as usual). It talks about accessing it as part of removing the fender :eek: . I took off the wheelwell liner (see attached photo), and it looks impossible to get at from there. Has anyone out there replaced this 10c part? thx Norm
  23. clickman
    Do you really NEED the keys at all if you can get in from above? I'm thinking of doing Tool Pants' cupholderectomy, and he suggests sliding the radio out to make room to get the HVAC control wires up the back. If the cupholders are out of the way and i can get at the top and back of the radio, do I still need the removal keys? Thanks. Norm
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