clickman

Everything I've heard and read indicates the anti-squeal plates are for the Boxster "S" and not the base Box like I've got. There were none on the previous pads, just the regular flat backing plate.

I took the wheel off yesterday and pulled the pads. Nothing obvious, other than a lot of dirt collected on the lube on the metal plate on the back of the pad, which I assume is normal.

We'll see in the next few days...

Did my fronts a couple months ago, Zimmermann rotors, Ate pads, new stock caliper bolts. No problems until I went on a 2000 km trip thru the Rockies a few weeks back (only way to see them, with the top down).

At one point, I noticed a click coming from the left front, intermittently, on both application and release of the brakes. It's still there, intermittently.

The caliper bolts don't look loose, and I haven't pulled the wheel off yet to have a real good look, but does this sound like a sticky caliper piston?

If so, is there any easy fix short of replacing the caliper? Are rebuilt units available?

Norm

2001 Boxster, 5 spd, seal grey

Thanks, guys

I replaced the front rotors and pads last weekend, but realized afterwards I hadn't put any anti-seize on the inside of the rotors against the mounting face of the hub. Problem down the road?

I have a 2001 986 and the climate display has just started going wrong, I extracted the unit and it's P/N 996 653 101 07. Will an earlier version of the unit work (say a '99 model P/N 996 653 101 03) or does it need to be identical P/N code?

Don't know why it wouldn't work, but you can always confirm with the vendor

I just got my replacement pads from Performance Products. The OEM pads they sent are Ate. The instructions that come with the pads aren't that useful. The written part, duplicated in 50 languages, is only enough to keep the lawyers happy. The rest is pictorial. I assume the attached pictogram is supposed to mean "Don't brake hard for 200 kilometers".

My Bentley manual says that new pads will take about 150 miles to break in and during that period to try not to brake hard.

So is that it or is there a "better" bedding produre to be used with new pads? (I'm putting in new rotors at the same time.)

Norm, did you finally paint your rotor hats?

What did you use, Tremclad?

I was thinking that I need to touch mine up before Crown Isle, because they are looking a little tired...

I painted them but haven't put them on yet (I'm getting together with a buddy with a 996).

I just used the cheapest high temp paint I could find, which turned out to be silver Rona High Temp for about $5. Though I prob didn't need to, I masked the rotor surface and the two countersunk screw holes on each rotor.

IThat's why you should buy OEM

Interesting that the vendor calls them "OEM". I suppose Zimmerman is a Porsche supplier, but for Porsche they paint them too.

I just got my new front rotors from Automotion (Zimmerman rotors), and I see the "hats" aren't painted, like the ones from the Porsche dealers are supposed to be. Is there a good reason to paint them or is it a waste of time?

Norm

2001 Boxster, Seal Grey, manual

A Porsche dealer is selling these pads as OEM. I thought OEM was Textar or Galfer without the circular ears.

Anyone know what they're for?

Just finished the install. It was pretty easy. Took less than an hour. Meerzee's right, having done it once, I could do another one in a heck of a lot less.

As far as making a DYI, with the unit I bought from Circuit Solutions (eBay), the instructions were just excellent. Step by step, with clear colour pics, and perfect English. So I'm not going to bother with making another DYI.

Well, I bought one. With USPS and Canada Post combining their considerable talents, it should get here in about 3 weeks.

The symbols won't be stock, but I'm getting tired of the "rising sun" and missing segments, and the price is right.

Anyone interested in a full DIY?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15193

That's for the one you've got to make some mods to make fit. The one I linked to is supposed to be a drop-in. So I'm curious to see if it really is a drop-in, i.e. no chopping required.

And I'm getting some conflicting info on whether the "bigger" one has the stock Porsche symbols, vs the non-Porsche symbols shown on the drop-in unit.

Norm

Try on your link again Norm, it's no good...

Fixed (I hope)

I bought the Porsche retrofit kit and find it works very well. It does not adjust wipe speed - it only wipes at the slower speed. I found it easy to install - took about 45 minutes. I ran the wire across the top of the screen, down behind the A pillar trim and straight down to the relay board.

The kit that I got from Porsche is not the same as the one they describe in the TSB. The TSB says that the wiper delay control becomes a sensitivity control - that isn't the case, the control becomes redundant. It also says that if you leave the sensor in the 'on' position when you switch off the ignition, you have to reactivate it by switching the stalk to off/delay - that also isn't the case, it's active all the time with the ignition on and the stalk in the delay position.

The kit is made by Xanonex in Germany (www.xanonex.de) and it would have been considerably cheaper to buy it direct from them.

I think it works well, and am very pleased I got it.

Thanks, Richard. When you say it only wipes at the slower speed, does it do a few wipes at the regular speed and then pause for a bit or does it adjust the wipe interval to the amount of rain?

I'm not familiar with a TSB. I'd be getting the Tequipment version (Porsche, I assume. Xanonex according to you)

But if there's an aftermarket unit out there in NA that would work with the relay, I'd go for that. Anyone?

Another day of liquid sun here on the Wet Coast.

Who's got the rain sensor by the mirror to control the wipers?

Does it work well?

Does it adjust wiping speed as needed? Shift up to high speed when required?

Did you install it yourself? How tough is it to run the wire from the sensor to the relay panel?

I appreciate all replies.

How many 986 owners that have done this retrofit have had electrical issues afterwards? I have daytime running lights in my 01 986. I thought the 987 had the most problems with daytime running lights.

Secondly, I understand most people are doing the retrofit on the low beams. What happens when you use the highs and then go back to the lows? Is there a pause with no light while the xenons re-ignite? If so, how long does it take?

thx Norm

2001 Boxster, 5 spd, Seal Grey

Just checked out the CQLight website that was recommended at the start of this thread.

It says: "Our HID-Xenon Conversion Kit are for off-road driving in the United states only, we do not held any responsibilities if its used on daily driving."

What's that all about?

Norm

01 Boxster, based, 5 spd

Hi guys, I'm seriously thinking of doing this DYI, but I have a few questions:

1. I also have the '01 MY base Box, and wonder if the idiot light problems that I've seen in more than one post may be a model-year issue?

2. What about the long term impact on the electrical system. I always get a little antsy with retrofits, as you have to wonder if the engineering is as thorough as the car manufacturer normally does or requires from his suppliers.

3. It sounds like most people do the low beams. Has anyone done the highs too?

4. Most important, are the lights really that much better? I have to dodge deer on the way to work, and it's getting a little old not seeing them at the side of the road waiting to jump in front of my car.

I need a new set of front pads and I'm going to do them myself. The local stealer here north of the 49th wants CAN$170+ for the OEM pads. Looking on the internet, there's a dizzying array of manufacturers (apparently) and pads to choose from:

Textar (FF) CAN$170, US$106, 100, 78, 106

ATE US$76, 71, 82

Mintex (EE) $US58, 53, 58, 69?

Mintex Silver metallic US$96

Pagid US$84, 79, 78, 70

PBR US$64, 60

PBR (EE?) US$73, 68

PBR ceramic US$84, 78

Centric semi-metallic US$75

EBC red, ceramic US$102

Porsche (Brembo) US$136

Porsche US$77, 97

I don't track the car and am just looking for reasonably good performance on the street without a lot of dusting. Oh, and I'm not into drilling holes for the wear sensors - the pads have to come with the holes.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks. Norm

2001 Base boxster, 5 speed

So I'm trying to understand what octane rating I really need here in the great white north:

My manual says:

1. "Your engine is designed to provide optimum performance and fuel economy using unleaded premiuim fuel with an octane rating of 98 RON (93 CLC or AKI).

Porsche also recognizes that these fuels may not always be available. Be assured that your vehicle will operate properly on unleaded premium fuels with octane numbers of at least 95 RON (90 CLC or AKI), since the engine's "Electronic Oktane knock control" will adapt the ignition timing, if necessary."

2. On the fuel filler door of my Box it says "Minimum octane RON+MON/2 = 93"

Some quick net research tells me that AKI (Anti Knock Index) is the same as (R+M)/2.

Therefore the manual and the fuel filler door don't agree, and I'm left wondering if I really can run 91 or 92 instead of the much pricier and rarer 94 I'm currently using.

It sounds some of you are running 91 without any issues, but I'd like to know if that's more universally the case before I switch.

And I'm also curious if USA cars have the same label on the fuel filler door that I have.

you will see something that looks like a spring that fits into a sleeve, Just try coating the spring in grease

I'm curious as to why Porsche would specifically say not to lube this spring (at least for MY98/99):

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...age=2&pp=15

I've got a squeak coming from the pedal area, and I don't know if it's (1) the booster spring in its sleeve, (2) the pin where the booster spring assembly mounts, or (3) the bushings where the clutch pedal pivots.

Norm

2001 base Boxster, 5 spd

When I installed Harvey's rear speaker kit, and got to where I had to run the wires from the spot beside the seat to up under the dash, I found it easiest to tape the speaker wires to a big stiff wire, and push that up to the area under the dash (after pulling the carpeting loose). Then I could pull the big wire, carefully, and the speaker wires came with it.

Do the porsche OEM dash cup holders work well or is the ultimate cupholder better? I had the OEMs and ripped them out (ref cupholderectomy). I'll sell them to you if you're interested. My climate control unit has a problem, and I'm sure it was as a result of spills from the cupholders above. I bought a Ultimate cupholder and am happy with it.

How hard is it to move the a/c to the lowest console position? Not hard when you've got the right mounting parts and are prepared to fiddle with getting the big wire connectors down the back of the console.