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Alan 01 Boxster S

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Posts posted by Alan 01 Boxster S

  1. "Degrading" the performance of your car is not the way to go (in my opinion). Plus it would reduce it's value. I would recommend replacing the tires with lower performance tires that should slightly improve the ride. I'm the wrong guy to make a recommendation on this since I am always going to the other extreme. Perhaps someone else on this forum has a suggestion.

    Regarding the many shifts with the 6 speed transmission, in commuter driving I usually shift 1-2-4-6 to reduce shifts. When going for performance I use all 6 speeds.

    Alan

  2. I recently ordered a Zeintop (late March) but haven't heard from Zeintech. I have sent email but they are returned and I have asked someone to respond to me from their webpage, but no response. Anyone know what is going on with them?

  3. Need radio code please.

    Becker CDR220 sn Y5060295

    Try 6696

    or

    6694

    If you have not already read this FAQ - please do so...

    Lost Radio Code - FAQ, PLEASE READ THIS FIRST

    Read the FAQ, got the WAIT display, waited for an hour, got the code request again, tried more codea and got the WAIT display again. Is the WAIT function what happens when the wrong codes are entered before you can enter more codes?

  4. As mentioned it could also be bearings.

    BUT. I've had the same symptom with most cars and tires I've owned. High performance or year round. Cured with fresh rubber.

    Just replaced the summer hi perf rears on my Box a year ago at 20k miles and that helped cut the noise a lot.

    I agree. Had noised EXACTLY like wheel bearings on my '01 S, replaced the tires, and no noise. If your tires are worn, I would change the tires first.

  5. I just installed the Schnell short-throw shifter in my '03 986. I have read mixed reviews on the Schnell, and mixed reviews in general on short-throw shifters in Boxsters, but I've missed the STS I installed in my Tiburon and the price was right.

    As far as installation goes, the instructions are adequate... if you need a reminder on how to install a Boxster shifter. If this is your first time (like it was mine), they're about 80% complete. Pointers like how to remove the flex rods from the shifter base are completely missing, and other items (like the amount of time it will take to remove the factory bushings) are grossly understated. Nevertheless, the instructions were enough to keep me in the right direction, and the kit was complete.

    Words of caution: I had to pull out the cup from one of the new bushings and remove the washer behind it in order to get enough clearance to install both snap rings. Also, you do not need to remove the small plastic cube from the ball joint on the side of the factory shifter. It won't fit on the Schnell, so leave it on the old shifter. Third, when you read the DIY's for the STS installation, marking the position of the shift cables is this mysterious event that sounds really important, but isn't explained worth a darn in the Schnell instructions. It's obvious once you start disassembly what everyone is talking about. Just use a Sharpie on each cable to note how far it extends into the cable clip.

    After I put everything back together, I took the Boxster for a spin, and I am delighted with the results. The shifts are REALLY tight... the difference is amazing. If you enjoy really short gear throws and solid engagement, this is a great addition.

    This is my first Boxster mod. My last car, a Hyundai Tiburon, was my sanity project - whenever I was feeling stressed out, I'd go turn wrenches for a bit, and wound up with a blown, intercooled Tib making 230 at the wheels. I look forward to seeing what I can do with my Boxster!

    I installed a Schnell STS about a month ago in my '01 S and I agree with all of your comments. I drove a Miata for 11 years and was used to a tight, precise shifter. The Schnell kit definitely tightened up the shifts and they are VERY positive. I really notice the increase in effort on cold mornings so I am looking forward to warmer weather.

    Would I install it again based on how it performs? I'm about 50/50 on that one.

    Alan

  6. I am wondering has anyone purchased items from Vertexauto.com before and your experiences with them ? I am planning to purchase a pair of Carbon Fibre door sill and seems like the price listed is very reasonable.

    http://www.vertexauto.com/ShowItem/208547%...x#ItemNotes1Div

    I've ordered several items (Schnell short shifter, track pedals) from Vertex Auto in Fl. Great to buy from. Technical answers by phone and when there was a mistake in one of my orders they quickly resolved it (sent return UPS shipping label, just had to place the incorrect part in a box). Bought my items off eBay.

    Alan

  7. OK, after a year of looking at wheels for my '01S, I have come full circle, back to the wheels I wanted on a Boxster when I had decided to buy one - Factory style Carrera wheels. I considered going to 19" wheels for the looks but everywhere I see 19's mentioned my handling (and ride) will suffer and I don't want that.

    PORSCHE241ONE.JPG

    OK, so now I am decided on aftermarket copies of factory Carrera wheels, 18x8.0 ET 50mm for the front and 18x10 ET 47 for the rear. I believe the front tire size should be 225 40 ZR 18 and the rear should be 265 35 ZR 18's. Or would larger rears (285s for example) work better with the 10" width (vs. 9" stock)? I would like to really fill out the wheel wells with as much tire as needed for looks and handling. Looking for someone who has "been there and done that." I currently run 17" Bridgestone RE050 Pole Positions and really like them, I plan on buying them in 18's for these wheels.

    Any experience with this combination out there?

    Alan

  8. Last week I got a CEL for the first time and dropped by the local autoparts store to borrow their OBDII Reader. I could get no reading, it said that the unit was not connected. I used a standard OBDII connector which fit the port. Over the weekend (I couldn't resist) I "got on it" and the CEL went away.

    Here are my questions:

    1. Any idea why I couldn't get a reading? The reader was an AutoXRay, I believe a quality instrument. Anything funky about the Porsche OBD protocol? Suggestions? The fault is gone now but I want to read (and clear) my faults as part of my 45k service. (Owned the Boxster for almost a year now, plan on doing my first service at 45k miles, 43k currently.)

    2. I plan on purchasing an OBDII reader. Any recommendations for home mechanic use?

  9. Go for the LEDs and let us see how it turns out. Also let us know who you purchase them from. I've seen them on eBay.

    Alan

    Bristol thanks for ur input!

    I agree majority of it. yes third one would only look good maybe on a red car & also reminds me too much of Honda JDM 's cheap euro version.

    post-23680-1196631373.jpgon this pix it looks like u got on eye ball hanging on ur tail-lol

    for the black ones they r professionally coated w/ nite shade-special translucent lens paint so they still come on as red.

    Yeah, I keep kicking around the idea of changing my tail lights too. That's probably my next mod. I like the LED ones you put as first, but it depends a bit on the color of your car. What color is your car? Personally I like those same LED lights but with the clear/chrome look. Looks awesome on a silver Boxster. But you can't seem to get that light in the US right now.

    The last option would look good if you hard a guards red car. Otherwise I'd still stick with the first choice.

    As for your second choice... it really looks cool and would look amazing on a black car. Where did you find that? I assume it's a home-made paint job. Still I wouldn't touch those lights with a 10 foot pole. They'd be completely illegal in California and probably Washington too. They'd just be an invitation for getting pulled over and harassed. Plus they wouldn't be too safe. I bet they'd increase the chance of you getting rear-ended and if you did, the person who hit you might be able to weasel out of trouble because of the illegal tail lights. Just some food for thought, ultimately you choose the risk you're willing to accept.

  10. FWIW, I have 10's (et47) on the rear of my '02 S with 275/35s. Car is also lowered with H&R sports springs. When fitting, be certain the wheel does not rub on the parking brake cable, as mine did. I was clear all suspension and shock points, but heard this strange whinning noise that would increase in pitch the faster I went. Upon removing the wheel, I noticed a groove rubbed into the cable (fortunately not severe). All was was fixed with a couple wide cable ties holding the brake cable close to the rear suspension arm.

    Sharp! I have a black '01 S. Are your wheels factory or aftermarket copies of Carrera wheels?

  11. Purple plug.

    Toolpants,

    I know this is an old thread, but what is a good, low cost, OBD reader for the home user? Looks like you are using a Palm (back in '04). How'd ya do that?

    Alan

    P.S. By the way, thanks for the links for info on replacing the CV joints. Job went well. Nice to work on a vehicle that appears to be designed to work on.

  12. Cool! dont you just love how she sounds?

    Take it easy, so u don't break it!

    Did you try to slip your finger through the grill then try to free those 3 tabs? they should all come towards you.

    Yes Sir, our passenger side is to cool down the engine compartment intake air. Sounds like you've taken care of that removal of duct grill, Alan?

    Be careful u guys, don't be throwing your cigarette butts while u are driving.

    do i need to do the passenger side too? thanks.

    No, the passenger side appears to just be a cooling fan (similar to a "pancake" fan on a computer) that pulls cool air into the engine compartment.

    No, I haven't been able to de-snorkel. The right side comes apart as described in an earlier thread - push the grille in, it frees up the duct and it comes loose. The left side doesn't want to cooperate. Like the grille and duct are one piece. Tried to push it in but it doesn't budge.

    Suggestions?

    Yes. Tried to get the tabs holding the grille to move outwards, releasing the grille, and tried to get the grille to "pop" in, releasing the duct. Nothing want to let go. I have pushed and pulled pretty hard, as hard as I think I should on plastic parts. Tomorrow night I'll try pushing the tabs outward again.

    OK, now it has been decided! I am a 'tard and a wimp. I tried again tonight and after getting frustrated, pushed the grille inwards harder than I had before. There are little tabs that the grille ends snap onto on the duct sides. After working with them and getting the grille to move inwards, it released the duct. A couple of tugs on the snorkel (I was pumped by then and any resistance the snorkel put up was futile) and it was out! Put the duct back in and test drive. I don't know if you can feel 5 hp or 3 lb ft of torque, but with the sound, it seems stronger.

    Thanks juniic! I am de-snorkeled!

    Alan

    Definitely, terrorized the lower end of our county at high speeds with my window down (temp in the 50's) so I could enjoy it. Probably going to have the worse fuel mileage on this tank due to opening the throttle repeated last night and today.

    Wonder how much additional improvement in sound and power with an EVO intake? :)

  13. Take it easy, so u don't break it!

    Did you try to slip your finger through the grill then try to free those 3 tabs? they should all come towards you.

    Yes Sir, our passenger side is to cool down the engine compartment intake air. Sounds like you've taken care of that removal of duct grill, Alan?

    Be careful u guys, don't be throwing your cigarette butts while u are driving.

    do i need to do the passenger side too? thanks.

    No, the passenger side appears to just be a cooling fan (similar to a "pancake" fan on a computer) that pulls cool air into the engine compartment.

    No, I haven't been able to de-snorkel. The right side comes apart as described in an earlier thread - push the grille in, it frees up the duct and it comes loose. The left side doesn't want to cooperate. Like the grille and duct are one piece. Tried to push it in but it doesn't budge.

    Suggestions?

    Yes. Tried to get the tabs holding the grille to move outwards, releasing the grille, and tried to get the grille to "pop" in, releasing the duct. Nothing want to let go. I have pushed and pulled pretty hard, as hard as I think I should on plastic parts. Tomorrow night I'll try pushing the tabs outward again.

    OK, now it has been decided! I am a 'tard and a wimp. I tried again tonight and after getting frustrated, pushed the grille inwards harder than I had before. There are little tabs that the grille ends snap onto on the duct sides. After working with them and getting the grille to move inwards, it released the duct. A couple of tugs on the snorkel (I was pumped by then and any resistance the snorkel put up was futile) and it was out! Put the duct back in and test drive. I don't know if you can feel 5 hp or 3 lb ft of torque, but with the sound, it seems stronger.

    Thanks juniic! I am de-snorkeled!

    Alan

  14. Did you try to slip your finger through the grill then try to free those 3 tabs? they should all come towards you.

    Yes Sir, our passenger side is to cool down the engine compartment intake air. Sounds like you've taken care of that removal of duct grill, Alan?

    Be careful u guys, don't be throwing your cigarette butts while u are driving.

    do i need to do the passenger side too? thanks.

    No, the passenger side appears to just be a cooling fan (similar to a "pancake" fan on a computer) that pulls cool air into the engine compartment.

    No, I haven't been able to de-snorkel. The right side comes apart as described in an earlier thread - push the grille in, it frees up the duct and it comes loose. The left side doesn't want to cooperate. Like the grille and duct are one piece. Tried to push it in but it doesn't budge.

    Suggestions?

    Yes. Tried to get the tabs holding the grille to move outwards, releasing the grille, and tried to get the grille to "pop" in, releasing the duct. Nothing want to let go. I have pushed and pulled pretty hard, as hard as I think I should on plastic parts. Tomorrow night I'll try pushing the tabs outward again.

  15. Yes Sir, our passenger side is to cool down the engine compartment intake air. Sounds like you've taken care of that removal of duct grill, Alan?

    Be careful u guys, don't be throwing your cigarette butts while u are driving.

    do i need to do the passenger side too? thanks.

    No, the passenger side appears to just be a cooling fan (similar to a "pancake" fan on a computer) that pulls cool air into the engine compartment.

    No, I haven't been able to de-snorkel. The right side comes apart as described in an earlier thread - push the grille in, it frees up the duct and it comes loose. The left side doesn't want to cooperate. Like the grille and duct are one piece. Tried to push it in but it doesn't budge.

    Suggestions?

  16. Put it back. Same great sound and car won't take any water ever again. Let's hope so.

    De-snorkeling will not bring in water. Look at the design of the snorkel,it can serve as a reservoir to hold water,not protect the car from ingesting it.

    It's HIGHLY unlikely that your intake will suck in anything,it would have to heads upwards on the intake box,pass the air filter and then it would hit the throttle body and onto the engine. Oh yeah that would have to happen after water is shot into the intake at a 90 degree angle......not gonna happen.

    I forgot to mention that Porsche updated the louvre on the driver side intake. It now has a small block built into the 1st and 2nd lowest louvre grilles to block out anything from being sucked in.

    I have tried to get my "blinds"/louvers and the bezel out and it isn't cooperating. I have forced the plastic as firmly as I think I can without breaking anything. Any recommendations?

    Alan

    '01 Boxster S

  17. Now, this makes me happy! Thanks for that shop proven dyno Jim. This is the most cost effective way to gain your HP I have seen lately. it is better than a poor man's true air flow kit or EVO cold air intake. WOW
    And enjoy your dyno proven 5hp and 3ft/lbs or torque gain. Bisi did back to back on his Dynapack, view this thread:

    http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/f16/fin...ked-986s-75281/

    OK, either I'm just a 'tard or my car is being difficult. I had seen an earlier thread showing the removal of the air duct and it involved pushing the "blinds" (their word) back and away from the duct bezel, removing the bezel, then remove the "blinds" to get access. Reassembly was to install the "blinds" with them pushed back into the opening and after installing the bezel, pulling the blinds back into place. My R/H duct is definitely like this. I can't get the L/H "blinds" to move inward to release the bezel or release the tabs as you show. Are all Boxsters the same? Is mine so old ('01) that the plastic has hardened so they won't release? I feel I have pushed as hard as I should on plastic parts. Suggestions? I really want to de-snorkel! I WANT that 5 more HP!

  18. Thanks Toolpants. Ordered CV kits (joints, boots, etc.) from Pelican Parts today. Learned years ago, if you have it apart, replace it all at once. I know what I will be doing Saturday.

    Well, as things normally go, I found the R/H outer boot partially split Saturday. I guess the split was turned the other way when I was under the car before. I swiped the boot from the L/H kit and completed the R/H side. Great photos and instructions. We don't need no stinkin' manual, just RennTech! Took about 4 hours start to finish, including collecting tools to do it. Got 2 more boots on the way from Pelican Parts. Guess I know what I'll be doing this coming Saturday - The other side!

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