Alan 01 Boxster S

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12775

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4961

This is a 993 but it has some good pictures. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread....highlight=axles

Thanks Toolpants. Ordered CV kits (joints, boots, etc.) from Pelican Parts today. Learned years ago, if you have it apart, replace it all at once. I know what I will be doing Saturday.

I replaced an outer boot, which was easy to get at.

The secret to the clamp? Three hands. One to hold the band and boot in place, one to apply tension, and one to bend and lock it. Two will do, it just takes longer.

I did cut the old boot to "sleeve" the hub end as recommended, but it wasn't quite enough, therefore the silicone tape. If you look for it at a hardware store it will likely be sold under the brand name "Tommy Tape".

Ron

Cool. Boots are on the way. I'll let you know how it goes.

Alan

Houston, we have a problem!

Toolpants, I hope you're out there. I removed the old boot today and started to install the split boot and the diameter of the large end of the bell is WAY too large. No way to "shim" it up to size (probably more than 1/4" difference in diameter). Going to have to install factory boots. Are there instructions out there somewhere (I haven't been able to find them before) on how to replace the boots? There is a beginnings of instructions from Rodger but they only start taking things off that are in the way. HELP!

hi,

unfortunately my tire popped and it is time to replace so i'm thinking of getting the potenza re050's. i heard these were not porsche approved yet. if so, is it ok i still get them fitted for my '02 boxster S?

thanks.

That is the exact tire I'm running on my '01 S in 225/40-17 and 255/40-17 sizes. I really like them. I have even run them on the track a couple of times and while they are obviously a street tire, they performed remarkably well.

Go for it.

I would agree. I am impressed by the handling of the RE050's. My only issue is my set has been hard to get and keep balalnced. Might just be this set.

It looks like there have been 81 views of this offer for a Work on Cars Day....and no one is interested.??? Is it becasue there are no folks geographically situated to take advantage of this offer.....or perhaps the group would prefer another venue? We would really like to get something started that could work into some great meet-ups and the exchange of some oversight, expertise and help.

Chuck

I'm looking at a Boxster in the Bay Area tomorrow (supposed to be an "us" car, but really its for my wife). I'm in Orangevale, have never owned a Porsche before, and have no idea where the good service places are, etc. However I know what a wrench is, and I'm certainly interested in doing some of this stuff myself. First step is getting the car...

Rich

Im interested but im in NJ :(

:renntech:

Same here. Would love to have access to the knowledge of a Loren, but too far to drive from Georgia! :P

So, I guess this is normal?

I know this an older thread, but I just stumbled on it today. Gee, I thought I was the only one who got out and "creased" my back window when I lowered my top. Having not "helped" it fold and sitting on my rear and lowering the top, I have gotten some temporary creases that came out only after a day in the sun.

Whenever the top requires replacement I was planning to go to a glass rear window. Any experience with replacement glass rear window tops? Regardless, in the mean time I guess I'll continue to deal with my plastic window.

I replaced an outer boot, which was easy to get at.

The secret to the clamp? Three hands. One to hold the band and boot in place, one to apply tension, and one to bend and lock it. Two will do, it just takes longer.

I did cut the old boot to "sleeve" the hub end as recommended, but it wasn't quite enough, therefore the silicone tape. If you look for it at a hardware store it will likely be sold under the brand name "Tommy Tape".

Ron

Cool. Boots are on the way. I'll let you know how it goes.

Alan

I had my wheels balanced today and took the opportunity to examine under my '01 Boxster S. Both of the inner CV joint boots had failed. Does someone make a split boot to replace these or do you have to remove the axles?

I bought one recently from a guy selling them on ebay. His email address is thecvman@comcast.net. I didn't buy from ebay but contacted him directly. Turns out he was fairly local to me in Maryland. He sent me a PDF spec sheet of about 20 split boots that he sells. He didn't have one listed for a Boxster. His boots fasten with tiny screws. I can't give a long term evaluation but it's still fine after a month.

I believe I chose the smallest one he had and the hub side was still a bit large. I wrapped the hub with self-fusing silicone tape first to take up a little room. It took about 30 minutes or so to install, most of the time was spent trying to pull the band clamps tight.

Wret - Thanks for the info. Remember a part number for the boot? I'll contact "thecvman" to see what he has available.

"thecvman" thinks that it is a 86-2865 because "I do show that most people that have purchased these for a Porsche have used the part number". Any way to check to see if that was the one you used? I have included his .pdf file of boots.

Alan

I believe it was the 86-2865.

I haven't used split boots before but "thecvman" claims these are superior to the glued boots which separate. "thegluedcvbootman" probably makes similar claims about boots with screws. I was a little concerned that the grease would find it's way out of the seam but so far it hasn't.

Out of curiosity I called the dealership to get an estimate for replacing the boots. $360+ per side. Definitely worth my while to try split boots.

Ordered a couple of 86-2865's today. Spoke with Danny ("thecvman") and he said the tape to use on the hub can be purchased at a hardware store. I'll get more info on it. He also suggested using the clamping area from the old boot to "sleeve" up the diameter.

A couple of questions before I start: 1. What all did you remove to get access to the inner cv area (skid plate, what else?) 2. What is the secret for removing and reinstalling the clamps? I see it consumed most of your time.

Alan

19" wheels are an aesthetic modification. If you like the look of your car with 19's, I say "go for it". I would suspect however that ride quality will suffer because of the ultra low sidewall height. Porsche increased the rolling circumference of the 987/997 models to allow 19" wheels with reasonable sidewall height.

I'd guess the reason for the suspension "strengthening" is a combination of a heavier wheel, higher rotational inertia and increased impact loads due to the shorter/stiffer sidewall.

Good luck

Well, 19's definitely win on looks, but my previous toy was a Miata with 17's (14's standard), Jackson Racing anti-sway bars, and HD struts. It would pull 1.03 g's but I clinched everything up before every bump that I couldn't dodge. I may stay with 18's (optional factory size) to make sure I don't jeopardize ride or handling this time.

Thanks for the input.

When it is time for new tires (sooner than I would like) I plan on upgrading from the base 17" Boxster S wheels to 18's or 19's. Of course 19's look better, but I don't want to sacrifice ride (too much) and handling (want to improve, if anything). So, do I play it safe with 18's or go to 19's? (18's were an option in '01.) Anyone have experience (good or bad) with 19's?

Also, what about manufacturers? OEM Porsche wheels are expensive new and there are a couple of companies selling Italian copies of Porsche Carrera wheels (both 18" and 19") on eBay. Any experience out there on these? Finally, any experience with "Ruger" brand wheels? They look great and supposedly Ruger only makes Porsche wheels.

I have a wheel and tire fetish (OK, now you know more about me than you should) and I upgrade the wheels/tires on everything I drive. I just want to make sure I UPGRADE when I make a change.

I would appreciate any and all input.

Alan

OK, according the the tech expert at pca:"Porsche did not approve 19" wheels for use on the Boxsters until 2005. This was do to suspension strengthening according to Porsche." - (I don't really see that the suspension needs to be "strengthened" for 19" wheels other than perhaps due to higher impact loading due to reduced sidewall flex.) Comments?

Alan

I had my wheels balanced today and took the opportunity to examine under my '01 Boxster S. Both of the inner CV joint boots had failed. Does someone make a split boot to replace these or do you have to remove the axles?

I bought one recently from a guy selling them on ebay. His email address is thecvman@comcast.net. I didn't buy from ebay but contacted him directly. Turns out he was fairly local to me in Maryland. He sent me a PDF spec sheet of about 20 split boots that he sells. He didn't have one listed for a Boxster. His boots fasten with tiny screws. I can't give a long term evaluation but it's still fine after a month.

I believe I chose the smallest one he had and the hub side was still a bit large. I wrapped the hub with self-fusing silicone tape first to take up a little room. It took about 30 minutes or so to install, most of the time was spent trying to pull the band clamps tight.

Wret - Thanks for the info. Remember a part number for the boot? I'll contact "thecvman" to see what he has available.

"thecvman" thinks that it is a 86-2865 because "I do show that most people that have purchased these for a Porsche have used the part number". Any way to check to see if that was the one you used? I have included his .pdf file of boots.

Alan

split_boot.pdf

I had my wheels balanced today and took the opportunity to examine under my '01 Boxster S. Both of the inner CV joint boots had failed. Does someone make a split boot to replace these or do you have to remove the axles?

I bought one recently from a guy selling them on ebay. His email address is thecvman@comcast.net. I didn't buy from ebay but contacted him directly. Turns out he was fairly local to me in Maryland. He sent me a PDF spec sheet of about 20 split boots that he sells. He didn't have one listed for a Boxster. His boots fasten with tiny screws. I can't give a long term evaluation but it's still fine after a month.

I believe I chose the smallest one he had and the hub side was still a bit large. I wrapped the hub with self-fusing silicone tape first to take up a little room. It took about 30 minutes or so to install, most of the time was spent trying to pull the band clamps tight.

Wret - Thanks for the info. Remember a part number for the boot? I'll contact "thecvman" to see what he has available.

When it is time for new tires (sooner than I would like) I plan on upgrading from the base 17" Boxster S wheels to 18's or 19's. Of course 19's look better, but I don't want to sacrifice ride (too much) and handling (want to improve, if anything). So, do I play it safe with 18's or go to 19's? (18's were an option in '01.) Anyone have experience (good or bad) with 19's?

Also, what about manufacturers? OEM Porsche wheels are expensive new and there are a couple of companies selling Italian copies of Porsche Carrera wheels (both 18" and 19") on eBay. Any experience out there on these? Finally, any experience with "Ruger" brand wheels? They look great and supposedly Ruger only makes Porsche wheels.

I have a wheel and tire fetish (OK, now you know more about me than you should) and I upgrade the wheels/tires on everything I drive. I just want to make sure I UPGRADE when I make a change.

I would appreciate any and all input.

Alan

Rodger - Great photos. Can you continue instructions in additional posts please? How long did it take to replace the 2 boots?

Alan

I had my wheels balanced today and took the opportunity to examine under my '01 Boxster S. Both of the inner CV joint boots had failed. Does someone make a split boot to replace these or do you have to remove the axles?

Alan,

Do a search here for "instrument cluster". The removal has been covered many many times.

Loren,

According to the tech bulletin, the light is a LED and it is disabled by removing relays and swapping some pin-outs in the relay plug in the rear trunk. Are there photos and/or instructions for doing this available?

Alan

I always use NikWax UV proof - another camping-type treatment that waterproofs & UV protects fabrics. Always pour the stuff into a bowl and paint it on the top with a paintbrush - otherwise it'll run off the top all over your paintwork if you rely on the spray!

http://www.postfreeoutdoorgear.co.uk/acata...x_UV_Proof.html

Thanks Beety.

Cheers!

My air struts for my rear deck lid no longer support the lid and wing. I assume when the deck was added they increased the strut strength to account for the wing. Can someone tell me the correct part number (Porsche or otherwise) for struts for Aerokit deck lids? I could just go by the part number on the current struts but I want to make sure I replace them with ones that will support the deck/wing.

Alan

There are no special gas struts for the aerokit the original part number is 986 512 551 01 (x2)

Thanks Nick. Just found your reply. This will give me 2 hands to load/unload items from my rear trunk.

Alan :thumbup:

There is a DIY and discussion here.

Thanks Loren - 2 good ways to do it. I couldn't believe it, but the article with the one I saw came back up on the random Porsche at log on about 2 days later. What are the chances of that? :clapping:

Thanks again!

Sunday when I logged on the random Porsche was a Boxster that the owner had modified to have a remote mounted garage door opener. He/she had replaced one of the seat heater switches (mine doesn't have seat heaters either) with a door lock switch and wired it into his/her garage door opener. The LED even lit up when the switch was depressed. Sweet! The Porsche part number for the switch and the Radio Shack connectors were listed for the conversion. The opener was just pushed back under the console. Push the button, LED lights up, garage door goes up or down. (And you get rid of the garage door opener hanging on your sun visor)

Since it was on the randomly shown Porsche at log on, I don't have a way to get the information. (I almost copied everything off the tech sheet while I had it up but didn't. Doh!)

If the owner of this Porsche reads this or if anyone else is familiar with this procedure, please let me know the details.

Alan

My air struts for my rear deck lid no longer support the lid and wing. I assume when the deck was added they increased the strut strength to account for the wing. Can someone tell me the correct part number (Porsche or otherwise) for struts for Aerokit deck lids? I could just go by the part number on the current struts but I want to make sure I replace them with ones that will support the deck/wing.

Alan

Prices have gone up I see. Not up on this stuff anymore. When Raggtop started years ago there was just the cleaner and the spray. Now they have all kinds of stuff.

In the olden days people were using 3M Scotchguard as an inexpensive alternative. Someone gave me a can of it but I never used it. In fact, both of my cans are so old they cannot be California VOC compliant. Because of out goofy laws 3M reformulated years ago, and I lost track of why it fell out of favor.

BMW also sold a product that you brushed on, that Boxster owners were using. No clue what happened to that.

Blue Coral http://www.bluecoral.com/ made a product to clean the top, and another product to protect it. I have the product somewhere in my garage - used it once.

Then there was Bio 303 or something like that name.

As I said, there are lots of products. Or you can use Wack....

The UK owners are smart. They use the stuff you would put on a pup tent.

I have cleaned my top with RaggTopp cleaner and applied RaggTopp treatment (smells like "Camp Dry", used to water proof fabric for camping/backpacking). Now just waiting for it to rain (we're in a drought) or when I wash my Boxster again (probably before it rains).

To get them off you need to stick a small screwdriver under the clip and pry it back just a little bit. Then you can separate the ball joint. Watch out you do not scratch the paint when the joint separates.

First pic is the screwdriver. Second shows both struts off. Third shows the dab of grease I put on the male joint. The female socket on the strut has a bit of grease in it, but I wanted some on the male part where the clip locks the joints together. To get the new struts on you can just push them on the ball joint - no need to mess around with the clip.

Toolpants - Thanks for the lead on the top treatment. I have Raggtopp cleaner and protector on the way, should have it tomorrow.

Now a strut question: I have an Aerokit deck and wing and the struts won't hold up the deck. I assume whoever put the Aerokit on used the correct struts but I would like to make sure before I replace these. Do you know the correct PN for struts for an 01 with the Aerokit package?

The car care products sold by Porsche are made by Dr.OK.Wack, a German based chemical company.

http://www.wackchem.com/

I bought the top spray from my dealer 6 or so years ago. Said back then it was a waste of time and money, and that I would never treat the top again. And I have not.

There are many other products that you can use.

RaggTop is said to be good. This product was not around when I started Boxstering in 1999.

http://www.wolfsteins.com/main.htm

:thumbup: thanks Tool Pants, I'll check it out! (But hey, "It never rains in California".)

Alan

In the original manual it references using a Porsche supplied top treatment on the soft top at least once a year. I'm new so this may have been discussed before (probably has, but I can't find it) but where can you get this? Only at the dealer? Other/better product?

Any assistance will be appreciated.

Alan :renntech:

Alan,

Do a search here for "instrument cluster". The removal has been covered many many times.

I searched but didn't find a thread on removing the instrument cluster. I would appreciate your help.

Also, I am installing an XM radio and I have read that there is a switched power source for a cell phone near the rear of the radio. I assume I will need to remove the right side cover from the console area, but I don't see any fasteners (and really don't want to pull too hard on the cover). How does the cover come off and is there a switched source there?

Finally, I have also been trying to see a "good" way to mount the XM 2Go radio, but can't find a good place. Any recommendations? Right now planning on putting it into the console.

Alan

I have installed my XM 2Go using a bracket call "ProClip". Bought the Aux Input cable from Crutchfields, the GLI form Bestbuy (you will need this if you permanently attach the power) and the ProClip from someplace on ebay. I used the XM 2Go lighter adapter, took it apart and used the guts to permanently attach power to the cell phone connector.

See pictures of finished install.

To get to the phone connector, you remove the plastic piece on the console (the area that the "Proclip" is attached to) by pulling the back edge (that is the edge towards the front of the car) sideways and forward. Then remove the carpet piece by pulling from the back edge sideways and then back.

Just looked and I actually bought the Proclip right from their website at http://www.proclipusa.com/

rockymount1 - Thanks! Just ordered my mount from ProClip! I appreciate your help!

Alan