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up4speed

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Everything posted by up4speed

  1. Thanks again for the kind words. I just wanted to log in to tell you that I haven't been on the forums lately. I sold the car recently because I am in the process of selling 2 of my "toys" to buy one better toy, lol. If you are handy, I wouldn't be afraid to work on these cars. Some things are very tight in the engine compartment, but other than that, they are easy. I'm glad I was able to help, that was my whole intent so people can follow my troubleshooting process. Enjoy your car, and drive it in good health! Regards, Chris
  2. good idea u4s. I'll try both with ohm meter. Would really like it working for a pending 2 day work out at the track! Don't worry, it seems like it's going to get hot enough on the track to trigger the fan anyway! ;) All kidding aside, I don't blame you, I would also want it working properly.
  3. I assume that you checked the fuse? It seems like it's working like it supposed to if the fuse was pulled. Check the fuse with an ohm meter, sometimes they are burnt and look normal.
  4. Dave, I forgot it was intermittent. Good job finding and fixing it!
  5. Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started.I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to warm
  6. You are correct, it is confusing. I wonder if the engine compartment temp sensor is bad and the fan is defaulting to "on" causing the symptoms that you are seeing? In other words the computer is giving the message that it's defective, but to you it looks normal since the fan is on. Does your fan stay running as soon as your engine is shut down? If I remember correctly, the fan will go off, then a few minutes later as the engine compartment heats up, the fan will come on. Does your fan stay on even if the engine is not fully hot, then shut down?
  7. Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started.I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to warm
  8. I strongly doubt that your Infiniti or Mercedes have better brakes compared to the 996. Be course you feel that you need to push the pedal harder for it to brake is just becourse the brake amplifier is adjusted in a different way on the 996. If you wanna compare brake systems with each other, take the cars on a track and see how they handle when they get pushed to the limit. I think Porsche adjusts their brake and throttle like that on purpose so they are easier to modulate. If the throttle and brake are too touchy, it adds abruptness to the persons driving (very bad for track). I notic
  9. My brakes seem to behave as the OP's do. I have a TON of brake dust right away, so I'm assuming that I have standard pads.
  10. Mine feels the same way. I changed the fluid recently also using a power bleeder and no change in feel. The pedal definitely feels like it needs a good amount of initial pressure. The brakes are strong, but they don't feel like they are too strong unless I push down with more pressure than I would expect to.
  11. Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started. I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to war
  12. I have an UMW performance tune on my car (I bought it that way) and during troubleshooting a cold start issue I was having, I went back to stock tune. I can not believe how much slower the car is when stock! The only mod to my car is the UMW tune, and it is a NIGHT and DAY difference in torque and power. I would have never imagined that it would even be possible to make that much of a difference with just a tune. In all fairness, I don't have experience with turbo cars, and it is probably easier to squeeze power out of a turbo rather than a normally aspirated engine. The car goes from being qu
  13. It's all back together. I have to admit, it is a very easy job. If you are handy and are considering doing the plugs and coils by yourself, don't be afraid. There is nothing hard about it. It definitely takes a long time the first time, but it's not hard. As far as the results of my work, it's hard to be 100% sure until I get a little more time with it. As of now, I felt like it idles smoother overall, but it still does that whole dip in the RPM's after 3 seconds, then hunts a little for the idle (visible on the tach, not enough to hear anything). Even though it does the same routine that it u
  14. The only way I could see the climate control affecting the idle is if the compressor is sticking and dragging. Or when it cycled on, he noticed his idle change slightly, which is normal. In my case, it was off when having the issues. I should have it back together later today or tomorrow and I'll report the outcome.
  15. I decided to change the coils also. After hearing all the facts and speaking with Kevin at UMW, I decided to replace them since all of the labor is already done. They are the original 996 coils that are bound to eventually fail, so the 997 updated coils sounded like a good idea. I should have it all together by the end of this week (hopefully). I'm anxious to see the result. I will definitely update with the results. Keeping fingers crossed
  16. You do not need to reset anything for the car to accept the new plugs and O2 sensors. Nice shop layout, by-the-by. :thumbup: Thanks for the compliments! Ok great, I didn't feel like having to do all the other initialization stuff, LOL
  17. I am in the process of changing the plugs and wideband O2 sensors. Do I dare say that it's actually FUN? I may be a little twisted sometimes, LOL So far everything went smoothly except for the fact that I snapped off the locking clip on one of the coil pack connectors. Be careful of these, they probably get brittle from heat cycling and age. The worst part is that my production came to a halt until I get a replacement connector. Thankfully I have a friend that may have an old harness lying around and he may be able to give it to me tomorrow so I don't get delayed a few days waiting for it t
  18. Good point. I'll look into having it done when I take it in for a yearly state inspection.
  19. When was the transmission last serviced? I don't show any service in any of the paperwork.
  20. I started another thread describing a few issues that I was trying to sort out with the car (the running rough on a cold start thread). I also have an issue where the transmission bangs hard into 1st gear when I downshift as I'm rolling slowly. If I'm at a stop, it's ok and if I'm rolling faster than 5 or 6 MPH it's ok. However, it has a violent knock that feels like a bad transmission mount when I'm in between those speeds. I mentioned it in the other thread and thought that I fixed it after I changed the engine and transmission mounts (along with other stuff) because it didn't bang into firs
  21. Good points Wross. You are definitely speaking logically.....however, I'm still going to change the O2 sensors (14 years old) and spark plugs (>4 years old) as a last ditch effort, plus the plugs should be replaced anyway at 4 years according to owners manual. If everything that I have done does not correct 100% of the issues that I perceive (I may be wrong) as problems, I will definitely look into getting the proper software, or taking it to a Porsche mechanic.
  22. If your O2 sensors were causing the problem is would show up as a fault or as poor O2 sensor waveforms. Best to put a Porsche PIWIS tester on the car and monitor it. I would do that if I had access to the PIWIS tester. I figured if I had to pay for that testing, I might as well change the O2 sensors since they are 14 years old, and cheap. I don't mind spending a little money to have a lot of the common failure parts taken care of. Even if it doesn't fix what I perceive as a problem, The car will at least have a lot of new parts that I shouldn't have to worry about for a long time. If
  23. I'll be changing the wideband O2 sensors this weekend. I don't know if it will tackle the last remaining possible issues or not, but I just want to do it for maintenance. Are there any hints or tricks that will make replacing them easier, or is it straight forward?
  24. I finished all the work on the car. just for a summary, here is everything I did to it so far: Changed fuel filter Changed air filter Cleaned throttle body Put Techron in the tank Replaced MAF sensor Replaced MAP sensor Changed transmission mounts Changed engine mounts Pressure checked intake and replaced V-pipe with hole in it (as shown above) Re-synchronized throttle after restoring battery power I'm happy to report that the car seemed smoother, the transmission didn't kick when dropped into 1st gear (tiptronic), and the boost built faster and held constant boost as I stayed on the throttl
  25. I have a 2001 996TT that I bought with 17,500 miles on it. The belt also squealed after I washed the car (I don't know about heavy rain). I thought it may be the belt, so I put a new belt on. It seemed a little better, but if I get a lot of water in there, it still squeals for a few seconds. I pretty much brushed it off as a bad design, but if someone finds out otherwise, please share the fix!
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