whs

Email sent. You can also search my postings to find before and after pictures.

Will

I have a '99 911 C4 w/ Aero Kit. Beautiful car!

I want to add some new 18" Aftermarket wheels. I like the GT3 look and Race Inc. makes some nice ones. Has anyone used these? I also want to add some nice pedals. Any experience here???

TY

Mike

I have the Race, Inc. GT3 style wheels. I have been very happy with them although they are pretty heavy wheels. I have some pictures posted out here somewhere or I can send you some direct if you would like. Can't help on the pedals.

Will

Specific track requirements:

§ Lime Rock: requires a visible roll bar in all open cars. This means 996 cabs cannot run unless they are fitted with a permanent roll bar.[/i]

Hope this helps,

Best

Gus

Is this really true? You can you manually pop up the 996 roll bars. Would this qualify?

Will

Yes there is

one way would be turn on ur fogs while u are driving? hahaha

my LED fogs are wired with the ignition sw, so they come on whenever car is running.

Okay, short of manually turning them on. Anyone else?

Sorry I can't help with your question as I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me but do you need DRL in SC? I thought it was a Canadian thing only.

No it is not required in SC. My wife's Acura gives you several options as to DRLs. Hers is set to use only the fogs. Looks cool and I thought it would be a cool option for the P car.

Will

I have seen the many DRL threads, but I hae a new question. Is it possible to use your fog lights as DRL? It looks like from the fuse chart that to use your low beams as DRLs you jump the A-6 (heated seats) to the A-9 (low beam right that is jumped to low beam left A-10). The fog light fuse is A-7 which appears to already be jumped to A-6. Is there a way to use your fogs as your DRLs? Thanks.

Will

I've been doing several days of spring cleaning (leather, carpets, etc) in my garage, and unwittingly let the battery run down via open doors, etc. When I attempted to raise the top to get to the back window, the process proceeded only a few inches before the battery gave up altogether.

So, pop the engine cover and connect a trickle charger to revive my battery. Later, disconnect the charger and start the car. All is great until I attempt to finish raising the top. I can hear the relay clicking (its quiet in my garage), but the top will move neither up nor down.

After a few minutes of increasing panic and head scratching (did I melt a top relay or something similarly horrible?) .... I remember the pointers I've picked up here at RennTech. Did I fully close the engine cover? A quick push, a reassuring click, and my top was running again.

Just something for you Cab drivers to file away for when it happens to you.

Kim,

Great post. The same thing happened to me the other night. I heard the relay clicks and something told me to check the engine cover. It was open. Funny thing is, I think it opens on its own. I think if I travel on a bumpy road the jarring opens the latch. Weird.

Thanks, Joe D.

+1 for me. The other day I went to lower the top for the first time this year and nothing happened. Came in and pulled up Renntech and found the threads regarding the engine lid. Went outside, opened and closed the lid and top went right down. This site has saved me sooooo much money!!!! Thanks.

Will

- a low cost torque wrench that is used just for wheels

- a mid to upper range torque wrench for engine and suspension use

That should be a good start (IMHO).

Any suggestions on brands and cost for a low end and a mid/upper range?

Thanks

You can buy a "low end" wrench at Auto Zone, Pep Boys or any other car supplier for ~$30. These are generally big wrenches for up to 100 - 120 lbs. They are probably reasonably accurate within a few pounds. The torque for your wheels is 95 lbs, so if you are off a couple, no big deal. For lower torque, you may want a more precise tool. Your decision here will be based on how big your want the wrench and the torque range. I would say buy when you need for what you need.

Will

I was considering putting a ROW M030 suspension on my '99 C2 Cab (US). However, after looking at the distance between the rear fender and the tire, I was afraid that the fender would have to be rolled. I saw in another topic here that showed pre vs post M030 install distance from the ground to the fender well. It showed ~27.5" pre and ~26.25" post. I measured mine as it sits and I and at 26" rear and 26.5" front. From first glance it does not appear to have any aftermarket shocks or springs and I do not have any suspension option codes.

My questions are 1) Is this ride height normal? 2) If this is low, could it be that the stock shocks/springs are worn causing it to sit lower (car has ~65k miles)? 3) Is there an easy way to determine if an aftermarket setup has been added?

TIA

Will

I can't see any of the wire colors to verify but it sure looks like the connector that plugs into the cruise control controller box.

Thanks, Loren. After posting this, I found a post by Richard Hamilton with a picture of the cruise control connector. I just went out and crawled back under the dash and felt under until I found the pins for the connector. Plugged it back in and now the cruise light comes on. I will test it out for functionallity tomorrow. Thanks!!

Will

Cruise works fine now. I had this car at the dealer for some other things last summer and asked them to take a look at why the cruise wasn't working. They said they looked and didn't see anything, but it was probably related to a bad ignition and they wouldn't run any furter tests unless they replaced the ignition. Of course they would only install the new style ignition to the tune of $500. I said no thanks and replaced the ignition myself with the old style $10 ignition and it made no change. Apparently they didn't even look at the cruise or surely they would have seen this wiring harness just hanging there! Sorry to vent, but once again this website has saved the day and a bunch of money!!

Will

I can't see any of the wire colors to verify but it sure looks like the connector that plugs into the cruise control controller box.

Thanks, Loren. After posting this, I found a post by Richard Hamilton with a picture of the cruise control connector. I just went out and crawled back under the dash and felt under until I found the pins for the connector. Plugged it back in and now the cruise light comes on. I will test it out for functionallity tomorrow. Thanks!!

Will

I have a '99 C2 Cab. My cruise control has not worked since I bought my car. I dug under the dash today to see if the brake switch was working properly. It seems to be fine, but while under the dash, I found a wiring harness that wasn't connected to anything. Here are a few pictures (not very good due to the fact that I have to stand on my head to get under the dash). Any help what this is? Thanks.

Will

If you are basically talking about "swirl" marks, I would say a normal buffing process would take them out. Wash, clay, buff. There are many threads here as to preferred processes both hand and machine. Good luck...at least your wife didn't wash you key in your pant pocket!! Mine did.

Greg,

going from my memory on my 99 Tiptronic, it is normal. Going from Second to 1st.

Mine does it as well, but not all the time. It actually seems worse if you are going very slow/almost stopped.

Will

Congrats!

Could you post a DIY how to make a baby? I've been itching to try it out.

Thanks again for all of the well wishes!! When I read this I busted laughing, but I'm pretty sure Loren would give me the immediate boot. As to the DIY for the Reccaro car seat, I do use the Recarro booster for my 4yo and it is the best fit of any booster for the rear that I have seen. Here is pic of big sis with her baby sister.

Will

Congratulations Will! Hope mama and baby are healthy. When you getting out to CMP for a run?

Izzy

Thanks to all for the well wishes.

Izzy, I wish I could be there this weekend, but don't see it happening!! If your going, have a blast.

Will

How can you not brag about a new baby!! My daughter arrived at 5:10 this afternoon. Proud new Daddy!! Loren, sorry, but I can't help bu share with my Renntech friends.

Will

Will - thanks for testing yours when the weather clears - I'm anxious to hear what you find.

Okay, I took mine out for a spin in full auto. First off I could never get it to run in low RPMs in any gear but 5th. Even then when you eased on the gas it didn't really lug but it was more like it was underpowered until it dropped to a lower gear, but it only took half a second for this to happen. In 3rd and 4th if I trid to get it to go to lower RPMs by easing off the gas and slowing down it would just jump to 5th with the lower RPMs. For the most part it never dropped below 2k RPMs in 3rd or 4th. Don't know if all of this helps, but it doesn't sound like mine does what yours is doing. That being said, I really don't have any ideas on possible solutions to your issue. Have you tried driving it in manual mode for a while (keeping RPMs up above 2k) and then switch back to auto and see if it still does it. Let us know what you find out.

Will

Given the temporal connection between the ATF service and the problem, I'd suspect that there may not be enough fluid in the transmission. I'd check that first. If it is low, you might be OK with just adding additional fluid but I'd document it with the dealer who did the service in case there is latent damage to the transaxle.

+1 to Vipers comments. These cars are very temperamental when it come to ATF. Hard to beleive that a small fluid variance causes issues. There are several threads here discussing fluid issues. I really never drive my car in full auto, but if it lets your RPMs drop to 1200 in the high gears, I would almost expect it to "lug" a little upon acceleration. In manual mode I never let the RPMs go too far below 2k. I will drive mine in full auto over the weekend (it's raining today and I just detailed the car last weekend...I know, I know) and see what kind of RPMs it runs at different speeds in the higher gears.

Will

Hello all I just got an 02 C2 Cab and it has the areo cab wing and side skirts. I am contemplating adding a spoiler lip under the front bumper. Seaching on the topic I found 4 different part numbers. I talked to Rik at Suncoast and asked him about the parts, but on his order screen there wasn't a diagram.

Does anybody have a diagram or a picture of the following part numbers?

996-505-986-02-G2X - this appears to be the front lip for the areokit II front bumper as it comes primed for painting

996-505-555-01 - this appears to be the rubber front lip that goes with the aero cab rear spoiler and should be a direct fit to my front bumper.

996-505-986-92-01C - GT3 rubber front spoiler lip. I have seen pics of it, but I don't like the fact that you have to cut the ends off as it hang into the wheel wells.

It also seems that the GT3 cup lip spoiler will work but I am not as sure I like the looks of it as much. Part number for that is 996-505-986-90. I have seen pics of this.

Thanks it advance!

Shawn

Do you know the manufactor date of your car? There is a Carrera Aerokit for cars manufactured through 7/01. It is for the cab or coupe. The front bumper on this package doesn't look that much different than the stock. You can see a picture here http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...tec996_pg28.htm Are you sure yours is stock? Like Loren noted the rear spoiler is not suppose to be installed without the front.

Will

While I have 18's, I did the same basic thing you are suggesting. The stock tire didn't fill up the rim and appeared undersized so I upped the fronts to 235's and the rears to 285's. Handles the same and looks better. Also provides some level of protection for the rim flange.

I guess the only differnece is the 235 - 285 tire package is a Porsche recommended tire package if you have the 18x10 rears. With the stock 17 inch wheels only being 9 inch wheels, you are more limited. Keep in mind even if you go to a 265 rear, you are only increasing the width of the tire by less than 1/2 inch. I went from 255 rears to 295 rears (just over 1 1/2 inches) and you can tell a difference, but it's not like holy cow difference. I think having the taller wheel makes a bigger difference than the wider tire. If you haven't, you might want to read the summer tire TSB. It has lots of good information. Just my 2 cents.

Will

I have a 1999 C2 Cabriolet with Tiptronic. It has stock 17" wheels and stock size tires (205 fronts and 255 rears).

The rear tires are near the end of their life and I will be replacing them shortly

What is the largest width tire that I can safely fit on the stock rims and within the stock bodywork.

help and comments would be appreciated.

The best question may be what are trying to accomplish? I just went through this on my 99 C2 Cab and decided to upgrade my wheels while replacing the tires. On the stock wheel (17x9) you aren't going to be able to put on a much wider tire, it will cost more and I don't think you will notice any performance benefits. The size you have is what Porsche recommends for your wheel size. If you really want a wider tire, you need to upgrade your wheels to a wider 18 inch wheel. Others may not agree, but this was the conclusion I drew from my research a few weeks ago. Hope this helps.

Will

the tire sizes are ... 245/35-19 front and 275/30-19 rears.... Thanks for the advise....

Based on the advise I was given, I would think your pressures should be more like 35 psi front 40 psi rear. You may need to tweak from there, but that should be a good starting point.

Hi all,

I just got my 19s installed. Had a body shop paint the Lips to match the body color. Fronts needed spacers but other wise, they fit great. Let me know what you think. The tire guy filled it up with 32 front and 35 rear (pressure wise), is this ok? Should i be around the 40 PSI in the rear? I live in orlando, FL where it gets hot....

Thanks

Ultramens:

The painted rims look excellent in the matching color, and a nice contrast with the black centers!

Definitely makes the car stand out.

What are those little panels attached to the front edges of the rear bumpers? Are those extesions of the side skirts?

Regards, Maurice.

Nice looking wheels! Just replaced mine as well. Those tire prssures seem pretty low, but I'll let someone else give you better guidance. It might help if you list your tire sizes as well.

The panels on the rear bumpers are GT trim tabs that are part of the factory carrera aero kit that fits either the cab or coupe.

Hi all,

Planning to buy a pre fiber optics era Carrera, possibly a 2000/2001 Turbo.

Now, there are two basic dash versions, those with PCM1.0 and those without. I don't know, at this time which one will I get.

After the purchase, I'm planning to install a 2-DIN unit nav system such as the quoted Pioneer or the equivalent Clarion.

The questions are:

1 - Non PCM versions: Is it possible to remove the upper A/C controller to the lower area of the console, as in PCM versions? Will the wiring looms reach the lower position? Do I need new trim for this?

2 - PCM versions: are there any issues in removing the PCM unit and replacing it by an aftermarket 2-DIN unit? What informations/functions will I loose?

3 - Bose versions: what does this consist of? Is this made by Bose amplifiers/subwoofer stashed away and speakers? Are they reusable with an aftermarket, non Bose unit? Is there a difference between PCM and non PCM Bose versions?

Sorry for this bombardment of questions, but the ability of installing a state of the art nav system with a hard drive (which currently are 2-DIN units only) is a choice factor and any help with be appreciated!

Can't answer most of your questions, but maybe a clarification on one point. In your last statement you say that the only state of the art nav systems with a hard drive are 2-DIN units. I'm not sure that is entirely correct. Kenwood sells a single DIN flip out unit (KVT-617 DVD) along with the hard drive nav system (KNA-G510). It's a pretty good system. Just wanted to throw it out as an option if this is a big influence on your purchase.

Will