unclejosh

I like what wwest said, also : break in you car aggressively and you will be rewarded with low oil consumption over the mid and long term.

How?

1. Warm up the oil before getting on the gas
2. The age old recommendation: don't drone at constant revs or pussyfoot around with the car - the internal surfaces need a bit of a challenge to mate properly.
   
3. Exercise the revs up and down by upshifting and downshifting - find some twisty roads and have at it
4. OK to exceed the break-in rev limit by 2-3 K RPM for very short bursts

I did this with my 997.1 C4S - ate 1 qt in first 1000 miles, then only 2 quarts in the next 54 K miles.

I did first oil change at 5000 K, then every 10 K.

The motor became a free revving sweetheart after about 10 K

Hello Larry,

I was fortunate enough to get a deal on a set of Tubis- wow, they sound great, no drone.

Regards,

Josh

The following is a DIY Muffler Install for the 997. Very similar to the 996, but details might not be obvious or posted. Here I will key off what is known already about the 996, and will assume reasonable shade tree mechanic ability.

First, I refer to the fine threads:

Removal of the rear bumper cover and muffler:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=16935

996 sport exhaust and bypass pipe install:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...p=6entry6

Here are some items to consider and watch out for:

1) Find a safe stable way to jack up the car with fail-safe in case of jack failure.

2) Remove rear wheels - it is alot easier to remove and install the mufflers with them off

3) Remove rear bumper cover - Remove rear tail lights to access a lone hidden torx screw and see 1 torx in wheel well, in addition to the other obvious screws under the engine lid and under the car - it is alot easier to remove and install the mufflers with the cover off

4) Remove heat shields to access the mufflers - see my pics below, the fasteners are very obvious

5) To remove and re-install new mufflers, follow the above threads......

6) I used WD-40 soak on muffler fasteners prior to removal and fused aluminum anti-seize compond to lube up muffler joints for install.

7) I found that a ratchet with a pivoting head and just the socket was more useful and easier than a ratchet a universal joint and extension and socket.

Here are some pictures which may help:

Torx behind tail light for bumper cover removal:

Torx in wheel well for bumper cover removal:

Exhaust shield that needs to be removed:

Exhaust shield after removal:

Nice article Josh. What did you install PSE?

I am on my second set on RE05As - been very good for daily driving and track. N-rated.

I must of nailed a pothole though as I developed a bubble or hernia on the sidewall at 10K miles.

Lots of wear left despite 2 track days,one AX, and daily commute.

Keep up the pressure for those low profile tires on 19s.

Regards,

Josh

Thanks for your time and inputs guys! Let me look for a V1 in ebay

Yeah, I agree with many of the comments regarding the V1. Once used for a period of time, you'll reject all other detectors. The Valetine 1 is the best you can get.

My V1 has saved my a@# more than a few times.

Call V for 100.00 off refurb. units in perfect cond. with full warranty !

Hi Loren,

I am looking for that classic beep-beep sound ala alarm horn. Does Griot offer that sound ?

I went to the Porsche dealer and inspected both horn types. They take different connectors, which is not a big deal. I need to investigate the dBs and electrical needs of the OEM alarm horn vs. standard traffic horns....

Regards,

UJ

Probably as long as you can make a mounting for them.

Some of us have gone the other route and installed Griots air horns. They are very small and at least 3 times louder than the stock horns.

Hello Group,

I am enamored with the "old school" tone and pitch of the 997 OEM alarm horn vs. the OEM generic traffic warning horn sound.

Q: is it possible to replace or swap the two 2 traffic warning horns for two alarm horns ?

Regards,

UJ