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I'm sure it exists but its vague. I just ordered my 2008 S and while waiting for delivery I am planning my stereo. Based on my experiences with doing my boxster, I have a lot more grounds as to what I can do in the porsche. Does anyone have a diagram or just an accurate count of which speakers are in what positions and how big each speaker is? I'm really focused on the stock system (I skipped the bose since everything but the PCM is coming out) but I have noticed that the door panels and dash panels are the same regardless on the 2008's. This wasnt the case say, with my boxster, which varies the door panel depending on the sound option chosen. Just so everyone knows what I am up to, I'll be installing JL all around this time, with a 500/1v2 and 450/4v2 powering the environment. The PCM will be connected to a CL-SSI and then a CL441, which will then send the signal out to the amp. Its useless to send less than amazing sound to the amp and spend tons of money on speakers. I was going to install the focal utopia 3 ways, but I will stick to JL this time. I was impressed by their evolution ZR series, and the 3 ways are a lot less power hungry (have to fit amps somewhere!) than the focals, a bit cheaper and easier to acquire. So up front (depending on the speaker layout that hopefully someone chimes me into) I will do a 3 way component, matchine 2's for the passenger doors and matching midbass for the lid. Once I dynamat the cayenne and take into consideration its a fixed roof (as opposed to the boxster), I'll be achieving DBs and headroom a lot easier so I wont need the destructive power of 200w/ch components. The sub I will be using is the 10w7. I'm looking forward to it. Next begins the long search for an ipod bluetooth solution, but hopefully when by the time my car is delivered mobridge will be out with theirs. Yet another porsche to tinker with in the garage :) -Ryan
Hey JAudio- Do you have any recommendations for a 2001 Boxster? I would like something with a double din screen and nav. Check out my install on my S... it should give you some serious starting points. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry70245 I've yet to hear something more clean, clear and powerful than my setup without some big bulky subwoofer being somewhere. -Ryan
I had the factory rears, but I can tell you that the kappas are a lot brighter and noticeably crisper. Its a worthwhile upgrade when combined with an amp to more properly drive them. The factory amp doesnt have enough gusto for worthwhile aftermarket speakers.
That looks like it was run over! Anyway, being extremely skeptical that the fuel pump was the culprit, I asked to speak to the technician working on the car. The new (actual) story is that its not the fuel pump at all, but rather the fuel sending unit that mates the hoses to the tank. I've since seen the part which is indeed cracked and I have no doubt that when the tank is full it can leak from this point. I honestly dont know how this crack could have developed over a month's time, but apparently the technician who first worked on my car is no longer with the dealership so no one can provide answers. I'm not happy, but its not something I can do easily myself even if I had the time. It looks like most of the cost is wrapped up in labor as well, but such is the nature of the beast I suppose. Once I get the part in hand, I'll take a picture for reference. I've been out of the country for a while so I apologize for not following up. Something of a plastic seal between the tank and the rest of the mounting was apparently cracked. Cost 700 bucks to fix, and suddenly they couldnt come up with the old part either. I was not happy at all, but at least the smell is gone and the error is cleared.
I paid 200 with a coupon at the porsche dealership. Alignments at good shops (non-porsche) run around 90 bucks where I live, just metro prices. I figured it wasnt too outrageous considering those same shops up-charge for anything "exotic". I know... I know
I have a jump-station on hand (one of those portable battery jump boxes). They are very cheap nowadays, 50 bucks or so. It also has a DC power outlet. Low and behold when my battery went dead, plugging a cable in between that socket and my lighter socket gave juice to the car. It was enough to operate the alarm, which in turn unlocked the levers on the drivers side and I opened the hood. Whatever you do, do not attempt to jump your car through this configuration. Use it to open the hood and jump directly to the battery.
I know some things acted real funny on my car when I swapped the battery out. Later I went to turn on the radio, entered the radio code and things seemed to return to normal. I have no idea as to if it was a coincidence or by design.
That looks like it was run over! Anyway, being extremely skeptical that the fuel pump was the culprit, I asked to speak to the technician working on the car. The new (actual) story is that its not the fuel pump at all, but rather the fuel sending unit that mates the hoses to the tank. I've since seen the part which is indeed cracked and I have no doubt that when the tank is full it can leak from this point. I honestly dont know how this crack could have developed over a month's time, but apparently the technician who first worked on my car is no longer with the dealership so no one can provide answers. I'm not happy, but its not something I can do easily myself even if I had the time. It looks like most of the cost is wrapped up in labor as well, but such is the nature of the beast I suppose. Once I get the part in hand, I'll take a picture for reference.
Thanks. I was hoping to get a little more weigh-in on this, but I can understand that its hard without running tests ourselves. I know that this pump can be had for 2 and change, but right now im cursed with a complete lack of time to work on the car. Its frustrating for me because there is so much I CAN work on throughout this car, but determining this problem's legitimacy isnt one of them. I suppose I will pick it up and take it all the way out to the dealer I originally bought it from and see what they have to say. After talking with them on the phone, they feel its possible but very rare that the housing cracks. -Ryan
A while back I had mentioned on here that I was smelling fuel with the top down in the car. I took the car to the dealer, who spent the day with the car and handed it back to me saying they couldnt reproduce the smell and nothing came up on a "fuel system check". Well, last thursday the car's check engine light came on. I brought the car to the dealer and expressed my dissatisfaction when I was told it was most likely emissions or fuel system related. I had to wait until today to get their answer... Today I am being told there is a "crack in the fuel pump" which is only remedied apparently by replacement of the entire assembly, some seals and gaskets. Grand total, $760 and change. Something isnt sitting with me on this one. Any advice or heads up would be appreciated. I have no problem working on my car, and would love to know what the pump assembly goes for. Additionally, I'm being told the pump is all one piece, but its hard for me to conceive that the pump doesnt have some type of housing where the fluid actually passes through. When I posed that question, I was given the response "the crack is in the pump, and that is causing the EVAP leak". Unfortunately, Im dealing with an Audi customer consultant and not the normal porsche guy who is out of town. What is everyone's feelings on this?
Thanks! I've actually been working with the system to tune and tighten things up, and its putting out even more sound now. Its incredible how clear and loud and thumping the system is even with the top down at speed. For the subs, I built a reverse chamber out of lexan, then sealed the doors up (foam/dyna etc). In hindsight, id of just gone with turning the door into a small sealed box without the lexan, but im not complaining about the results as I had to be the test pig on this one. I called a lot of people asking for info on doing this... everyone said it couldnt be done, so im happy to say now it can :-) For those looking for face plates, i havent had much time at home and im not into custom work as a job, so its been hard. I will be doing some work on a friend's car soon, so I can see about making a limited few extra till im sick of it (since the tools will all be broken out). No promises though! Its not too hard to do on your own, you just need a router and a good senses of measure twice cut once B)
Actually I had the DSP unit in my boxster prior to the upgrade, so the trim was already there. Sorry I cant help, but as it was mentioned, it should be as simple as contacting sunset and telling them what you need :-)
I am glad you are appreciating the install. I'm loving it every day. There is just such a difference with a REAL low end and a well balanced stage of clarity from the main speakers at volume. For the double din, yes I removed the cross brace. I cut it with a dremel (I use that for everything!) and then smoothed the edge with an emory board. The plate covering I have fills in whatever noticeable change would have been there. After that I made my own bracket to mount the radio in the height and way I wanted it. I didnt have any issues with wiring the headunit... its pretty straightforward and there are a lot of references to the wires both here and elsewhere so you know what does what. As far as security well... thats a tough one. I dont leave my top down when im away from the car shopping etc, but if someone wants to gouge the top and spend time stealing the radio and amp etc, there is no way I can stop them. I dont see a porsche as the type of car people are fishing for radios from anyway, but if they are going to steal it I have no real solution for stopping them. It also makes me realize that it doesnt matter if we have a rag top or not, because even with a hard roof if they really want in, they just smash a window. Unless your top is down, I dont think its any much easier. Hope that helps... let me know how you make out with your stereo!
Carlos at wheel dynamics (www.wheeldynamics.com) has helped me and many other board members out with their wheels. They arent the cheapest aftermarkets but the quality is assured. They also promise a very good match on sale, mounting and balancing tires. I got my tires elsewhere because I liked the benefit of someone local to service road hazard warranties. I realize you arent in the states but the shipping was very reasonable here, and might not be too bad overseas... worth a shot! They are very well versed in porsche wheels (in fact I think its their main business) and most of their wheels have several factory offsets, meaning the majority of the wheels can fit your boxster, carerra, cayman etc without spacers. For me this was very important, since I am not fond of spacers: its one extra piece to worry about, high quality or not. As most have said, the tires are heavier in the aftermarket realm, but I actually went to the carerra lightweight which was a lighter wheel anyway. Its heavier than the OEM lightweight, but Carlos assured me it was also stronger as well. Be careful of the paint quality on some of the cheaper offerings... they might be smudged or have runs, or just have very thin clear on there. The few hundred you save could bite you in just a few short summers when the wheels start to look like junk.