olouie

I found this on CPO: http://www.porsche.com/usa/pre-owned-vehicles/approved/faq/ - sounds like the CPO is transferable.

Thanks guys. I ended up passing on the car since too many small things felt a bit off so they added up to a red flag. Back to looking. Also considering a 2003 Carrera Turbo since its in the same price range and always wanted a 911 turbo =p

Found a used 2007 Carrera on my local CL with 22,000 miles. Seller says it comes with CPO warranty that is transferable to new buyer. Lapis Blue, Tiptronic, Bose, Leather, and not much more above standard kit. 2nd owner only had it for 6 months and less than 4,000 miles but is moving so needs to sell. Its in pretty good condition - just a bit dirty and she did not service it while she had it since it was only 4,000 miles. I am wondering if $44k is a good price for it. She says she got it for $48k from the dealer in November and same dealer is offering her $44k for it now. Seems like its good deal. I took it for test drive and it seems to be in order (except for a bit dirty and paint has some minor imperfections and chips and strangely she never got license plates for the car). Anything I should do before buying besides pre-purchase inspection? She didn't have the previous service records, can you get those from the dealership? Thanks in advance.

Only reason I thought that I would need a new engine is that Bob at RMG said that a new engine was really the only way to fix it. Has anyone got a failing head gasket replaced before and know of how much that runs generally?

Coolant cap ends in 01 They should have done the proper procedure - RMG used a vacuum tool to flush and fill it. They ran a tech session on the coolant system a while back so that is why I went to them. I have not yet checked to see if the coolant is still overflowing, but after the overnight cooling the level was above max so I am thinking something is not right. Well that plus the hissing / popping sound.

After trying to sort out my coolant issues I finally took my car to RMG in Sunnyvale. Bob was great and flushed the system - couldn't find anything wrong with it. But before I had a medium to strong sound of air coming out of coolant cap (it would stop after a while or open the cap to let pressure out). Went away for a day after the flush, but now its back. Air sound will be strong and then I hear a pop from the cap and the sound will stop (new cap was installed during flush). Flush was done due to coolant overflow after new tank(s) - long story - was put in by another shop. Didn't trust them anymore due to lack of Boxster knowledge. Bob at RMG says that the air in coolant tank might be the first signs of a leaking head gasket. If that is the case then a replacement engine might be needed if it fails later on. The coolant is not white or mixed with oil or anything. Does anyone know if the head gasket can be tested to see if its failing? If it is, can it be replaced / fixed or do I really need a whole new engine? At this rate I will be selling the Boxster soon before anything goes wrong. :-(

After have 2 new coolant tanks installed by an incompetent shop I finally emailed Porsche_Joe over on PPBB about the write up he did a while back since I was confused. He was super nice and gave me some useful tips. So I did the procedure with his new information and took some pictures so everyone can share in how to solve the quite common coolant condensation on the inside of the trunk lid problem. ENJOY! COOLANT BLEEDER VALVE O-RING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE (from Porsche Joe) Parts: 1 999-707-370-40 Rubber o-ring 1 999-707-371-40 Rubber o-ring Tools: Ratchet 1/4" Sears No. 43187 7mm socket 1/4" Sears No. 43503 3" extension 1/4" Sears No. 43539 Regular blade screwdriver 1. With the engine cold, remove the oil and coolant caps. IMPORTANT: The engine MUST BE COLD to prevent the possibility of scalding when removing the coolant cap. 2. Remove the plastic cover to access the bleeder valve. You can carefully pry up the cover using a regular screwdriver. You should see condensation on the underside of the cover and/or dried coolant around the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve is not the problem unless you have one or both of these symptoms. 3. Put the oil and coolant caps back in place. This is IMPORTANT because it prevents you from dropping a bolt or o-ring into one of the openings. That would be a bad thing! 4. Lift the metal ring of the bleeder valve from the horizontal position (closed) to the vertical position (opened). 5. Remove the 8 bolts that secure the bleeder valve to the bleeder valve housing and coolant tank. Lift the bleeder valve from the housing. 6. Remove the bleeder valve housing by pulling straight up. This is a very tight fit. I had to use a regular screwdriver to carefully pry up the housing before I could remove it. Once you “break it loose” it lifts out easily. 7. With the housing removed you will see the two o-rings on the top of the coolant tank. I sprayed some silicone lubricant on the new rings before installing them (yea, yea, yea, I know, silicone lubricant accelerates the deterioration of rubber but that’s what I had available at the time). The lubricant will help keep the rubber o-rings from sticking during assembly. Instead of silicone lubricant you could coat the new o-rings with a thin coat of liquid soap or even use something like Vinlyex. Remove the old o-rings and install the new ones. Small O-Ring: Large O-Ring (old one from “brand new tank” on left, real new OEM Porsche right) Both O-rings on the bleeder valve top 8. Install the housing making sure the bolt holes line up properly. 9. With the bleeder valve still in the open position, install it on the housing. 10. Install the eight bolts (Hint: when starting a screw or bolt, use your fingers to turn it counterclockwise while gently pressing on it until you feel it “pop” into place then turn it clockwise to tighten it. If you do this each time you will never miss thread a screw or bolt again.) Be careful not to over tighten the bolts. I could not find torque specifications in the shop manual. If your problem continues then you may have to come back later and apply a little more torque. Be very careful here or this could happen to you and you will need a whole new tank if you break the bolts. 11. Close the bleeder valve (move the ring from the vertical position to the horizontal position.) 12. Remove the oil and coolant caps. 13. Install the plastic cover. 14. Install the oil and coolant caps being careful not to miss thread the coolant cap. 15. Go for a nice long test drive. Random Pictures of Parts Difference in ring size Top cap Cap + valve base Dirty parts

Some images and new information. Any and all help is great appreciated as always. The drain whole steams when I stop after a 10 minute drive and it looks like there is fluid coming from the bottom of the bleeder valve area. Not sure if it was leaking down from the bleeder valve or just somewhere from there. Is it even possible for a tank to lank from there? Also are all coolant reservoirs OEM? I am beginning to think the shop I went to used some aftermarket one since it has no Porsche markings or numbers on it anywhere and is from WorldPac (in San Jose, CA). I think I will be taking it back to the same shop I have been going to since the problem is getting worse and worse after only 3 days and maybe 6 short trips of less than 10 minutes each on a new tank. Also strange. The coolant tank was made in April 2007, but has this bleeder valve on it:

Hm... now it seems that I can see vapor rising from the drain hole even after short drives. I felt a bit of fluid near the back of the bleeder valve, but couldnt see any anywhere else. Strange since it looks like there was a lot in the drain hole. Its definitely time for a trip to the dealer. Now I just wonder how much this is going to cost. :o

What are the Porsche caps suppose to test at? The black cap was what the shop said they got from the dealership for their 996s and it tested at 15psi. I guess it can't hurt to buy another blue cap at the dealership. More caps the better.

Hm... that is the bleeder valve I have. But here are the instructions I was going from: http://www.ppbb.com/scgi-bin/boards/986/mu...es;read=1092331 Also the parts diagram over at pelican parts shows two o-rings in the bleeder valve cap.

Yep that is the exact cap I have. What kind of lubricant should I use if I decide to try to replace the O-rings again? I am thinking the shop just installed the tank as they got it from the supplier without even bothering the lube them up.

haha yeah I learned that lesson last time when I did that and snapped a few of them. That is why I needed to get a new tank as I couldn't get them drilled out. But now that I have that tank I was able to take them out since my drill worked better with tank out. so now i have a almost brand new tank just in case it cracks again :-) Ok the bleeder valve bolts are on tight, but I still think the coolant is somehow leaking. I guess a trip to the dealer is in order since the shop that I went too seems to be pretty incompetent and has no idea (after 7 trips and 2 tanks on what to do and I dunno if they are even doing anything).

haha yeah I learned that lesson last time when I did that and snapped a few of them. That is why I needed to get a new tank as I couldn't get them drilled out. But now that I have that tank I was able to take them out since my drill worked better with tank out. so now i have a almost brand new tank just in case it cracks again :-)

Yes, the shop put on a brand new black cap with the tank. They said it was tested at 15 psi (i think that was it) while my old caps were only getting 8 and 15. I guess I could just buy another new cap from the dealer since that would be cheap.