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tholyoak, this post really interests me..... I'm thinking of doing a swap to a 3.6l on my 2000 boxster s but came across a great deal for a 2002 3.6l turbo engine. Would you have any thoughts about installing a turbo engine in the boxster? My real worry is that the engine will be too big for the car and that it won't fit the boxster tranny. PM me if you still have the 3.6 motor available and how much you'd want for it. Thanks and keep proving all those nay sayers wrong:) marc
frenchy2001 started following Yep I'm doing another engine swap, can we say X-51?
I'm wondering if anyone might have any advice on weather or not the top latch hook can be adjusted so that it doesn't hit the wind deflector. When the latch hook hit s the wind deflector it closes the latch lock on the way down to the open position. Any ideas on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance I've circled (very faintly) the hook on the latch.... it's just about to hit the deflector. Sorry about the picture quality. I need to charge the batteries to get better focusing.
Rodger, thanks for the input. I was looking in the service manual and the air oil seperator is inside the engine. So I guess the oil seperator is on the outside of the engine. I was just wondering how serious my problem is...... I'll recap. When I removed the throttle body there was some carbon but mostly a sludge (oil and carbon) build up which was mostly damp with oil in the tuning pipe and manifold. The build up was so great (about a 1/4" thick) that it it was blocking the vacuum hoses attached to the rubber sleeves of the tuning pipe. However the sludge was wet with oil closer to the crankcase breather hose connection / throttle body. Now I've been driving the car for a couple days and removed the throttle body to find a light spray of oil where the sludge was. The car doesn't puff any white smoke on start up or under heavy acceleration. Should I still be concerned about the oil? Given my knowledge about engines I would say that oil going into the combustion chamber is not good. Any extra thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Rodger or anyone else who might know, I was looking for the air oil seperator and I found this PVC part called the oil seperator (attached pic). Could this be the faulty part? I wouldn't take the oil pan off if I don't need to. The oil is comming directly from the breather hose off the oil seperator. What do you think?
Thanks alot Loren. Now I've added the new term to my mechanic vocab. I guess loctite won't work then? I'll take some pics along the way to make it easier for the next guy to do the job. cheers :cheers:
Thanks for your quick reply Rodger:) I was just looking at the service manual and noticed that the oil suction pipe will need to be removed and the bolts holding it will have to be replaced. The 2 bolts that need to be replaced are hexagon-head bolt M6 x 20 (micro-encapsulated). Do you have any idea what micro-encapsulated is? Do you think I could reuse the bolts although it says not to. If they need to be replaced where could I find the part number. Also can I use any high heat silicone? thanks again:)
Hi there, I'm new to the forum and am wondering if I can get some help? I have a 2000 boxster s 6 speed, and the initial problem was that the rpm's were hunting at idle. So I pulled the throttle body off and noticed that there was a carbon and oil buildup in the throttle body. I investigated further to find that the oil sluge made it all the way to the tuner pipe (the one with the butterfly) and intake manifold:( It looks like the oil is comming from the crank case venting tube which is connected just after te throttle body. I have since cleaned the sluge off everything that I could reach without taking off the intake manifold, which made a huge difference with the throttle response and idle. So the big question! Is it the oil air separator? or is it that PVC type valve where the crank case hose comes from? or is it something else? I don't want this to go on and make the problem worse. Plaese, any help would be greatly appreciated. frenchy