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normank's Achievements


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  1. normank


    I am thinking about putting a LWFW in my 997 GT3. Would appreciate comments and/or experience of anyone who has done it. Interested in noticeable differences, benefits and any dislikes. An idea of the cost of the project would be helpful.
  2. Norman, Loren's DIY tells you how to bleed using a power bleeder. But, keep your car serviced and don't worry about brake fluid, tires, etc. until you start outdriving (or in my case, overdriving) your equipment. Presuming you're driving a GT3 or RS around the track, congratulations! Your equipment should be fine until you start overbraking or really get going fast enough that you need to put that much heat into the braking system. You will know you need to bleed your brakes by your pedal starting to feel soft when you are braking. Don't worry, this is not something you have to be looking for, you will know when it happens. And, it is simply compensated for by [a] pushing harder and then pumping the brake pedal in an extreme situation. That said, learn the line, be smooth and make sure your brakes have been bled within your region's requirements. Regarding definitions, bleeding as I use it means getting the air and any contaminated fluid out of your calipers and close vicinity. In my vocabulary, flush means replacing as much old fluid for new, as can be done, plus a little extra to make sure you have as much air and water out of your brake and clutch system as possible. BTW, all brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture), and the pedal goes soft because the water boils and becomes vapor and vapor compresses (this is where the soft pedal comes from), whereas liquids do not. QP Thanks for painting that clear picture. I suspect you are correct on every point. I spend a good deal of time on the track reminding myself not to over drive, which is a major problem with a GT3. Smooth is fast and stay off the grass (although I have been told grass is a racing surface and makes the car go faster). Norman
  3. After years of using ATE super blue (and Typ 200--same thing but gold) in 2 996 track cars (one a GT3) and my BMW track and race cars, I got fed up with soft pedals and bleeding brakes. SRF is not a one-bleed-a-season miracle cure, but I have not had to bleed my brakes during a 3-day race or DE weekend since I went to SRF (I used to need to bleed daily with ATE). So far, SRF has lasted 5 to 1 to ATE in volume (waaaay less bleeding), and the time saved alone is worth its cost. I didn't believe it until I tried it. QP I'm very new to all this so bear with me. When you say "bleed" do you mean "change" the brake fluid? At the moment, I'm not in a position to do it myself. What's involved and how do you know you need to do it? Thanks for your help. By the way I had the brake fluid changed to ATE Super Blue after 3 DE's (novice). I ran 1 DE and am now moving to the intermediate group. I'm guessing that I will need to pay more attention to the brake fluid and oil as I progress. Norman
  4. How often do you change it? Is it a time and/or miles calculation or can you test it. I would also be interested in what you do about oil. Thanks for your input. Norman
  5. Is there a difference between the high end, high temp brake fluids like: Castrol SRF ATE Super Blue Motul How often does it need to be changed and/or how can you tell?
  6. What I found out was that the homelink module is in the front end and runs around $500, and is not a reasonable mod to attempt. It seems more worth while to use the porsche homelink switches and hard wire in the transponders that come with the garage door opener behind the map light dome area above the mirror. Has anyone actually tried this? Are there instructions or diagrams?
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